PierM

You need an editor with also the sound engine that mimics the hardware. That is called Helix Native. :) HX Edit is just a bidirectional remote editor.

Talking about sustain it's always a foggy territory as there are like billions of variables, and possible wrong use of the term "sustain", while the expected effect is volume feedback, or viceversa... Sustain per se, is just the string vibration decay. So anything affecting the quality of that aspect, will reduce it. And that's all happening despite what's coming after the guitar. What's coming after the guitar, it's only amplifying, squeezing and pushing that decay to audible levels. If you pick an open string and you get the natural and long decay (no fret buzz), then there is not a sustain issue. If the problem onlys appears on fretted notes, then we are back to fret buzz, uncertain technique, etc etc... The more I read the answers here, the more looks like it's not about natural sustain...:)

We all do! XD

Sometimes even just a transparent overdrive (klon clone), with gain at minimum, can give that extra sustain kick you feel is missing.

That's the most useless bot ever. LOL

If a note decays instantly as you said, it's either fret buzz, or pickups way to close to strings. Said that, Helix does nothing special to the sound that could produce "no sustain", so if isnt the playing, if isnt the fret buzz, if isnt the guitar, it's probably something wrong with the setup. Global settings for in/out? Pad? Noise Gate somewhere?

It's an interesting topic, as nobody seems never wondering about their hearing "system", so it's always amp/guitar fault (not saying it's your case, but it could have been). People tends to think they are a static systems, so what they perceive today must be the same as next week, or yesterday, which isnt always true. There are many conditions (stress, long time exposure to loud environment, cold/flu, overtraining, earwax, etc...) that can produce a temporary notch in our hearing capabilities, usually between 4 and 6Khz. These are extremely sensible frequencies for guitar players, so even a small notch can make a great amp sounding like a lemon. It happens, the important thing is that it's just temporary... :P

Sounds like you have a bad linear taper pot for volume (or a bad audio taper pot, or a mix with modern wiring which doesnt help), which for their construction they let bleed the signal to ground linearly (resistance ramps up too quickly for our volume perception), while human sound pressure perception works better in Log. Linear are good for tone pots, annoying for volume pots, especially for people playing live at high volumes. You can improve that aspect wiring a good 250k CTS audio taper for volume, and wiring volume, caps and tone pots with '50 wiring. * Audio Taper = LOG

Truth! XD

FH1500 ( I do also have one), has a Main stereo XLR OUT and a full stereo Send/Return 1/4". It's a monster of a stereo FRFR+Modeler, which weighs like a semi truck.

It's the same (total assignable switches, minus 2), for all Helix and HX device that have the two left side FS available for BANK/PRESET browsing. We can only assume is just a limitation due the multiple functions of those left side FS. Helix Floor, LT and Control has 10 assignable FS, Max 8 snapshot HX Stomp XL has 6 assignable FS, Max 4 snapshot HX FX has 6, Max 4 snapshot Pod Go has 6, Max 4 snapshot You can place your snapshot in any of those 6 FS tho. But you can only use 4 Max.

If you meant change preset in stomp mode, via Preset command, and then change snapshot in snaphot mode, then of course you can (different actions, per different FS mode), but you'd need to tap dance, and press the two Bank U/D simultaneosuly to switch to ->Snapshot mode, and then press Mode to go back to ->Stomp mode again. Doesnt really look efficient (especially if you keep the HX FX on the floor), but you could, if that's what you meant. That's why I suggested you, in the other thread, the option to use an external controller for snapshots only, and set the HX FX in stomp mode for commands and stomp bypass. Just trying to understand. ;)

You cant's stack a snapshot with a preset change on a same footswitch action. It's either a snapshot, or a preset change switch. One does change params within the same preset, the other does call a different preset.

It's either a preset change, or a snapshot. You can't change preset and snapshot within a preset, as it doesn't make sense, since the snapshot is a "photo" of a specific setup which is happening within the same preset where such snapshot is being used, while a preset change command is jumping into a different preset. You can assign a command to a switch to act as a preset call, then you'd need the same switch in that other preset to go back to the previous one. You can also just assign a "next preset" function to a switch, and "previous preset" to the other, so you can virtually move back and forth between a group of 2 or more contiguous presets. Midi data; depends what you need to do. If it's a command that you need to send in any moment, you need a footswitch*command right there, if it's an instant command (midi command at preset load), you don't need to use any switch. Again, it's all in the manual. :) As I said multiple times, you can do all gain changes you need, within a SINGLE preset (or two), just using snapshots without jumping back and forth between multiple presets. That's especially valid for things like amp setup and FX changes for different song parts. You seems a bit confused about basic features, so I'd just read the manual and doing my own tests to understand basic principles. ;)

Yeah, I had (and still have somewhere, grabbing dust) a '2000 iMac G3, the blue one. Was in my office at that time, and never skipped a beat for its entire working life.

Ahah, that's the same thing I thought at first. But probably he meant a vulgar 1999$ iMac... :D

Yes that's correct. Lower impedance, less brightness, less gain. Higher impedance, full response, more gain. Also, the modeled 808 sets at 230K, not 500.

If you don't turn ON the variax system, it wont be recognized. Place a battery in the variax and plug it to an amp, then turn the variax models on. This should make it visible to both Workbench and Monkey. At least that's what I always did, since if I dont turn the Variax models on, the Variax is virtually non existent at the USB interface (red/green leds). Also you need the variax active and plugged, to ear the edits you are doing in WB HD.

A passive Big Knob will do the job ;)

Both EQ and Impulse are LINEAR as their response wont change with a variation of the incoming signal. That is the convolution, which is not the IR itself, as a finished product. That's like comparing real time physics with a LookUp Table array. Convolution is what makes the difference, especially for big cabs and/or non focused MIC positions. That is what capture the high frequency interference produced by sound waves traveling inside the cab, in relationship with the room and mic response. But again, EQ and IR are both LINEAR, and there is no dynamics involved in any way. You can mimic a focused IR with a simple param EQ, and make them virtually identic.

Guitar Rig sounds garbage to me these days, and I was used to love it back in the days. Your ears probably needs to embrace and trust new sounds. If you are trying to make the Helix sounding like Guitar Rig, just stick with Guitar Rig, as it will never happen. ;) Brain tends to "believe" things we know better, are better.

Latest variation of my HX Stomp based pedalboard. Zuma for everything but the HX Stomp, which is using its own PS, properly fixed and hidden underneath the pedalboard. I do prefer this way, as I find the Stomp more stable, especially at boot. An extra 9V is available at the back of the pedalboard (that I'm using for a Live Logic controller). From the back of the Rockboard, guitar input goes into Pigtronix philosoper's tone goes into Tumnus, into Pedal Plus, into HX Stomp L input. HX Stomp TRS send goes in stereo into Iridium, into Capistan, into BlueSky, into Flint, into Zoia, into Loupé, back into HX Stomp Return L/R. Strymon mini switch swap from standard tape echo to sound on sound frippertronics. Wet does only let pass the pedal plus sweeps without "blended" signal. Also the Wet switch is sending dry signal to the mini tuner, always active. HX Stomp USB port is remoted to the back of the Rockboard, so no risk of breaking it. HX Stomp stereo output and headphones are all remoted to the back of the Rockboard. HX Stomp is setup as MIDI Central via WIDI, so it can be controlled by any external source (iPad, foot controller, Zoia, etc...) Zoia is setup as part of a MIDI group via WIDI (together with fishman tripleplay, a launchkey and other toys) and can communicate with HX Stomp, and everything outside EXPression knob available for Zoia or Loupè via patch cable on the fly.

Guitar pedals are just a way to play with toys forever, pretending you are a grown man.

You keep overthinking that global bypass. I would not use it for your setup, at all. You just setup a single snapshot that when active does turn ALL blocks in the preset in Bypass, so it's acting just like a buffered bypass, with the advantage that the entire device will stay active; display is active, commands are active, snapshots are active etc... If you use ALL BYPASS, the unit would be just an expensive and useless doorstop on your pedalboard. HX FX has max 4 snapshots, HX Stomp has 3. You have 7 snapshot that you can use to setup all your presets variations within the same preset (so no DSP flush and no signal drops).