PierM
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Everything posted by PierM
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I dont use the Link with my two PC+ for that same reason (I could use a EQ block but DSP are full for my preset), other than because the daisy chain has few bugs that make the entire thing pretty erratic. Indeed, let's hope for a patch that cover both the problems. :)
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mine does 100% the same as your, still works fine.
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There is no contradiction, if you understand what have been said.... :) Just watch that video. Hope this finally make things clear.....lol
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No worries. Once you get the concept, it's easy to follow the logic; USB A = HOST USB B, USB B micro = USB Peripheral USB MIDI Comunication = USB Peripheral <---------------------------> HOST = USB B <-----------------CABLE--------------------> USB A NO USB Comunication (WRONG CONNECTION) = USB Peripheral <--------------------------->USB Peripheral = USB B <---------------CABLE-------------->USB B Helix = USB Peripheral = USB B H9 = USB Peripheral = USB B Micro CME WIDI USB = USB Peripheral = USB A direct (Since doesn't need a cable and goes directly connected to HOST) iPad = HOST (USB A, through the Camera Kit adapter) Laptop = HOST (USB A) PC = HOST (USB A)
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CME WIDI USB is a USB device, and needs an HOST (You plug the WIDI to a laptop [HOST], you connecto to a BT keyboard [USB Device]...and stuff like that). Helix is NOT an host, is another device. So, as well as with the H9, connecting helix usb to CME WIDI USB, is like connecting a Printer to a Mouse....You keep thinking an USB port design, as just a matter of design. It is NOT. The design changes, as the purpose is different. Just read the info I linked, it's all explained. ;) ....At some point, since you seems lacking MIDI and USB basics, you have either to believe users here who knows that stuff, or experiment yourself your own route, at your own risk. At this point, you've been suggested with many options available, but I see you keep searching for something different, so yeah, feel free to experiment buying random stuff and connecting random adapters to random ports. ;)
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It's not gonna work. USB Midi (as any other USB protocol), needs a device to Host communication. Helix and H9 are devices, Host is a computer, or a tablet, an ipad, etc. This is why you have different USB ports there. When you inter-connect two USB peripherals (helix and H9) via USB (forcing the connection through adapters), you have two peripherals with nothing to say each other, since it's the HOST that manages and translates data traffic between USB peripherals. Connecting Helix with H9 is more or less like connecting a Printer to a Mouse. https://www.midi.org/midi-articles/basic-of-usb EDIT: Also, in general, never force a direct link between USB devices, unless you don't know what you are doing. Not the case here, as USB B doesn't transport voltage, but USB A does, as well as many other protocols and ports. So, my advice, if you don't know how things are working, never try to force a connection between two devices with different ports, as happens that those ports are different for a good reason, and you may fry something just messing around... ;)
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MIDI Out is mandatory yes, as it's giving the power to the transmitter. So, if you dont need to send anything back to Helix, you can just plug the Helix out. For the H9, if you need to control it through the Helix MIDI commands, down to H9 MIDI IN , you need both IN and OUT connected (on the H9). Now I need to go. :)
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Loop I mean the BT Wireless adapter going into MIDI IN and OUT in the back of the Helix and H9... :)
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No, you dont need any Box. If you use two BT MIDI set, and an ipad; Helix has MIDI loop closed with one Yamaha BT-01 iPad will receive and send (if needed) BT MIDI From Helix, via BT-01 (you can use AUM to create the MIDI Route) iPad will advertise MIDI Over BT wireless and will become a Central. H9 has MIDI loop closed with a second BT-01 and will communicate with iPad Central AUM will put in communication iPad (and apps using MIDI) with Helix, and Helix with H9. Remember these BT devices, are using the serial power (also called Power Over MIDI), which can be 3.3V or 5V. These splitters, merger, etc, are typically asking 5V, and Im not sure Helix is producing that power for them. This means you are not sure those boxes will transport the voltage needed to powerup the BT Wireless.
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If you go that way, I think CME is the only option, as you can plug just the transmitter, without close the loop. Not sure it will get proper voltage and current tho....Never tried. Before to buy all that stuff, be sure you do proper research, or you risk to throw the money out of the window. :)
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I see. Shame, as they are very small compared to the competition Anyway, you can go with Yamaha MD-BT01, they do the same thing.... they are just much longer than Quicco.
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A MIDI splitter cant transport voltage from the loop, also these are very prone to conflicts and glitches. Without voltage, you wont be able to use a BT wireless which needs MIDI loop to be closed.
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These are Quicco Sound mi.1, Rev 3. I believe they are hard to find outside EU, but everything similar is gonna be fine. Yamaha MD-BT01, or CME WIDI Master, or similar....all good stuff, with very low latency.
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This is a good device, I have one (it can be glitchy for heavy MIDI traffic and clock). But at this point, for the money, he could just buy two BT MIDI, one for the Helix, one for the H9. Helix will propagate MIDI IN/OUT to both iPad (iPad still used as MIDI Central to bridge to H9) and then H9, which would get the other BT adapter. This is a completely wireless MIDI scheme. No USB needed for this option, no midi cables. Just two BT MIDI and iPad as MIDI Central. I have a bunch of these, they are cheap and they do the job.
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Helix has 100% MIDI over USB. I use it every day with my iPad. Since you are using at least one cable, for the H9, Id connect Helix to iPad via USB, and use a MIDI to BT for the H9. At this point the iPad can be used to propagate Helix MIDI to any other device (other than the H9), using a MIDI to BT converter/receiver. I use AUM to propagate MIDI, but there are many options. This solution will save you to buy two BT MIDI devices, using iPad as MIDI Central (MIDI IN/OUT Advertise)
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Two goodbye posts....And you are still here...:)
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Have you ever edited or created a tone preset in a Fractal unit? Have you ever used their editor? Ever dived into their deep granularity available, for every single aspect of each block? If you think helix is too complex, Fractal might be way too much for you. ;)
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Put it on Reverb at the right price, it will go pretty quick. :)
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Sell the Helix and save for a device that works for you. Done. :) (not being sarcastic or snarky, this is the only proactive move you can do to solve your problems)
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Has nothing to do with the firmware 2.9 or whatever old firmware. It's the way it works, since day 1....and yes, it's erratic (always been) if you need a tempo change on the fly. Using Helix tap tempo on the Helix Control, or even the button on the front panel, gives very erratic results, doesnt matter if you tap 2 or 3 times. To get the tempo you want, you need to tap a lot LOL. Also, almost impossible to easily move from a mid tempo to a slow tempo, without getting fast tempo jumps in the middle, even if you just tap twice, at the correct tempo. Looks like the code isnt waiting a proper tap cycle to be closed, and starts changing tempo first time you tap, counting from the last current tempo bit. Im using an external clock device, with its own tap FS, for that reason. :)
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Did the same with my FV500H. :)
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Man, you are necroing old threads just to crosspost the same post and link. Believe me, not a good move to grab attention. ;)
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FRFR 12 vs 10 to best represent the cabinet IR’s in your patches
PierM replied to calebkenyon09's topic in Helix
A monitor/speaker is not a cab, and a cab it's not a monitor/speaker. An average monitor, has a frequency range of 20Hz/20Khz, with its own response (flat just doesnt exist, but the closer you are to the 0dB reference flat line, the better). An average guitar cab, has a range of 70Hz/5000Hz, with its own response (that you grab in a cab block and/or in a IR). You see that's just a slice of the entire range available. So, why you need 20Hz/20Khz to repro a guitar speaker? You don't, because a modeler it's NOT simulating a guitar cabinet, but a Mic'ed cabinet in a room, so there is speaker response + mic freq response + room response, plus pre and post dynamics and FX. This equation won't fit a 5Khz range of a cab speaker, so there you need a Full response monitor, better if close to a Flat response (ideal, as in real life, does not exist). All this fluff to say size of the speaker in the real cab doesnt really matter (response and range does), as it's like thinking to play a Led Zeppeling album using 2 stack of 4x4 12" speaker set, to grab Page's tone. -
I dont think this is memory room you could change software side, so it is what it is. :) Said that, 128 it's even to much, as the more Irs you have onboard, the more you waste precious time fiddling around with impulses and then feeling like you're lost in the middle of nowhere. You should find your IRs in studio/home, and then load only those you need to perform. I seriously doubt you'd ever need 128 irs in a row, not even in a single gig, but in an entire life. :)
