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PierM

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Everything posted by PierM

  1. Helix Native 3.0.1 Seems the block Shuffling Looper isn't fully deactivated in Native, so when you import an hardware preset from Rack/Floor/Whatever, that has a Shuffling Looper in the chain, it will still work in Native, which would be great if totally unlocked, but this way you have no control on it, so it does its glitchy things even if virtually bypassed. I'd say, since I believe this would work fine in Native, just unlock it. :)
  2. Ping here with the ideascale link when it's done. I'm gonna vote it for sure. o/
  3. As far as I know, the Wing doesnt have wireless at all. Just two LAN ports. The X AIR XR18 has WiFi AP, but not really BT.
  4. What I hope for an Helix 2, other than just more DSP powa, is a profiling feature, similar to the one used by the TH-U (they call it Rig Models). The best sounding profiler on the market at the moment, IMHO. (well, as good as the Kemper, but way less expensive).
  5. BT is fine for wireless midi, as doesn't need drivers and it's not OS dependent. I do love BT Midi. If you don't have a too busy MIDI data flow, it will work flawless. On the other hand, BT for editing pesets can be a PITA, because soon or later the editing app will stop running (or crash, or just being unstable) on new smartphones with new iOS (that are products with a WAY faster development because of the market request). You don't want this with pro hardware, believe me. Helix is great because you can easily edit everything from it's huge display, so on paper you don't even need a computer. That's just a plus for me. Firehawk, for example, was a good product and I still have one, but editing was for me totally unusable for more than a year, when the editing app stopped working properly because apple introduced a new iOS with new libraries. Editing firehawk from the display isn't any fun.... Why do I love my 20/30 years old pro gear? Because you can still use it, you don't need a 1980 personal boat anchor computer to editing its presets, or to flash its firmware. They just works the same as when they have been introduced.
  6. Data stream for editing is too big for BT, that's why we have no editors for tablets or smartphones. This is what a dev said about the subject.
  7. ?? Thought the guy was asking if there is a clip indicator on the helix, and I replied. Didnt get he's asking for a powercab clip indicator on the helix, this would indeed make no sense. Not sure what you mean here. Powercab is active, so it does clip when input level is too high (it could be after, or before), doesn't matter if gain staging on the source is good or bad. This means it won't clip at all, even if the Helix is stuck on reds, until you raise the PC volume at a level that it will clip its own signal.
  8. Page 44 of the manual;
  9. If you need new and more, every other year, you should buy a new 2021 smartphone with Amplitube, or BiasFX. Professional audio equipment is a different market, thanks god (and still needs cables).
  10. Of course what you are expecting isnt happening because something in that preset needs a change. Hard to tell what it is, just talking about it. We can only guess, like the mono vs stereo gain block, misplaced in a stereo/mono path. Post the preset here, so people can tell you what's going on.
  11. +7.5dB are the same, doesnt matter if in a gain block or at the output level. What's change is the tone, IF that gain is placed BEFORE something else (like an amp), or at the very end of a chain. This is because a gain does drive the input of what's coming after, changing its response, while the output level, it's just to set the final output. A +7.5dB gain block, placed at the end of a chain, does exactly the same thing as setting +7.5dB at the output level. This is a pretty meaningless use of a gain block. Now, the difference in Helix are; Volume Block; Does NOT drive anything. It's just a passive volume pedal acting on the passing through signal, fading from 0 to 100%. Gain Block; Does boost the signal, in a range from -120 to +12dB Output Level; Does set the final output, in a range from -120 to +20dB
  12. In my case totally the opposite, but as for everything in software developing, with abstraction layers with new hardware vs old, all is still relative to the machines used as a core platform to develope, test and debug. I mean, we build new cars for today roads.. In my case, my old laptop keeps rocking with previous bumps of DAWs, while starts struggling with latest bumps, to do exactly the same tasks. This is how lollipop software (and hardware) market works....:)
  13. Live does indeed recall any plugin setup, same for Native. It's just the in/out levels in Native that keeps resetting to 0dB. Everything else does reload as when you saved the session.
  14. Yeah, really couldn't find a way to keep that setting. Now, wondering if placing a -6dB gain block, as a very first block in my path, is doing the same as reducing at the main input stage.... Tone wise, I couldn't tell the difference between -6B at the input stage, or as a -6dB gain block..... so might be my way to go. (?)
  15. In the case of Live, they are not. Tried saving many times as part of the Live session, but they do reset to 0dB every time I re-open it.
  16. This is normal (and it's part of the main problem discussed over here).
  17. That's interesting, as I've to do exactly the opposite to match Native input (-6dB) with my Rack input. The audio interface in the middle it's for sure the key factor here. How are you measuring the actual level on the hardware? (I wouldn't trust the graphics meters at all).
  18. I'm using latest Native with Ableton Live Lite 10, with a Scarlett 6i6. I've managed to match my Helix Rack tone, just going with a DI to LINE IN instead using INST level (whish they'd implement that auto impedance algorithm), plus a -6dB at the Native input, to prevent a too early amp breakin. It's working pretty good for me, especially because I don't care of high gain stuff.... Now the problem is that looks like Native isn't saving the input level I set, so every time I load my Live preset, I have to drop the Native input to -6dB, again and again... which is annoying. Am I missing something? Is there a way to force Native to keep IN levels settings? tnx!
  19. Check these two params ShiftTime—Determines how long it takes for the signal to ramp up or down to the set pitch when the block is enabled. Press the knob to toggle between ms/Sec and note/beat values. TIP: Want to hit the switch and have Poly Pitch dive bomb and land exactly one bar later? Press the knob to select note values and set ShiftTime to "1/1" ShiftCurve—Determines the trajectory curve of the pitch shift over time. StartSlow values are concave (slower changes to start, speeding up toward the end); StartFast values are convex (the opposite). At the knob's extremes (Start Slow 5 and Start Fast 5), the pitch will actually overshoot a little before settling on the target pitch. The default is "Linear"
  20. Sounds like a faulty hardware...open a ticket. (if boot FS combinations arent working, there is nothing more you can do)
  21. This morning I grabbed the 90days fully functional trial of Ableton Live11, and loaded my typical preset; 1 Native session, plus a bunch of valhalla VSTs. Got a constant CPU overload, random spikes and terrible performances. Back to Live 10, where the same preset gives me 70% of constant CPU headroom. Not sure it's Native fault. Performances are terrible even without it. Just to let you know; dont waste your time trying Native in Live 11, LOL.
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