PierM

Deja Vu...

You need to be a bit more precise, as we have no idea what's your setup, so "gain" doesnt tell us nothing more, if you dont explain what gain, where and - most important - why using that gain.

You hear the noise probably because the mixer is expecting MIC level which is 1000 times weaker than Helix Line Level. In this case there are Mic preamps boosting the Helix signal, which is already preamped to line levels, so that's the noise from a distorted signal. You have two options; 1) If you only have MIC level available in the mixer set Helix XLR Out level to MIC 2) If you have PADs or MIC/Line selectors for your mixer tracks, set those tracks to accept line levels (or pad), and keep Helix XLR Out Level set to Line. ****WARNING**** BE SURE YOU DON'T HAVE PHANTOM POWER ON THAT MIXER SET TO ON

It's in the manual. :) Global Settings----->Preferences------>Joystick Encoder; Determines the joystick behavior when a block is selected within the Home screen - signal flow. For “Model” (the default), turning the joystick knob scrolls through available models for the selected block. For “Selection,” turning the joystick knob quickly navigates selecting blocks across the signal flow. SHORTCUT: Pressing while turning the joystick reverses the current joystick behavior.

No coffe machine? Nah, I'm not gonna buy that s...t!

Portamento it's based on a slew limiter algorithm (or circuit) that does interpolate two voltages, so it's pretty much connected to CVs and Synths. You can't do that to just audio, without a conversion to Control Voltages, and Helix doesn't do that. Unless you don't convert audio to Pitch to CV, you can't do any portamento.

Fair enough. My point is, it will be hard for people over here to help you, since nobody is connecting their guitars that way. Good luck anyway. ;)

Stereo spread happens at the output of the stereo blocks, so there is nothing creative feeding the Stomp with two mono input (causing impedance mismatches), as there is no stereo image to preserve. If you just plug guitar into L/Mono, and then add a stereo block in the patch, from there you have a stereo image. If your goal is to make the guitar sounding bigger, using that Y cable is doing exactly the opposite. Experiments are always good stuff, but my suggestion is (if you want to preserve the concept) to either use a buffered splitter (like a JHS), or a TB stereo pedal turned in bypass, just in front of HX. This way you should preserve the pickup loading and the tone. Still, Im not sure it will make your tone any better. https://www.jhspedals.info/buffered-splitter

You guitar is NOT a stereo device. sigh... Helix can handle a stereo signal at the input (for stereo pedals), , but using a Y cable will cause a drop in the signal and a cut in frequencies. Result is, you are still feeding a MONO signal, just sounding crap.

A Y cable (with no DI) carrying the same signal to L/R inputs is not a good idea (i seriously doubt there is something like that in the manual). Just use a mono cable to HX Stomp L input.

Few weeks always on? Why? +___+

This is at least 3 minutes latency....XD XD

I see your point. I do consider myself VERY sensible to latency, but I have zero problems running Helix Rack + 2 loops (two mono) going into two external EDPs and the other 2 loops (1 stereo) going into an HX Stomp, which has another chain of pedals in its own FX Loop. In all honesty, I feel and hear no latency that I could talk about, and that's Helix Rack + Stomp + 7 extra DSPs of other pedals running through their FX Loops. People likes to think their gear is "potentially" working better than something else, even when that doesn't make any difference in a real life scenario. Next I will test latency of dry VS my entire rig. :D

Dunno, but I did the same test with my HXStomp and I get 0.001 (1ms). I assume it's gonna be the same with the Rack. Going with samples to improve measurability, at 48Khz sample rate, test gives me ~70 samples, which is around 1.4ms (70/48000=0.0014583333333333 Sec) Difference with my test is; I didn't put any block in the path, just IN to OUT. Signal at the audio interface (Focusrite Scarlett 6i6) is exactly the same. Same signal, same phase. No arbitrary reference waveform, since the waveforms are the same, just in a offset (due the latency) Reference signal goes into a Y splitter, signal A goes into HX Stomp L Input. HX Stomp L Output goes into Scarlett. Signal B goes straight into Scarlett. Adding a AMP/CAB does still give me around 1ms

Contact the previous owner and ask him to unregister. I did the same when I sold my Helix Floor so that new owner could register again. This is the only option you have atm. I dont think you will ever find someone here giving you his own hardware serial number, as that's like giving you the ownership of the actual device, warranty, support and everything.

If you just bought that unit, send it back and ask for the new version. Those old units should be totally legacy and discontinued now. Buying today a defective product like that, doesnt make any sense.

It's fine to use a bass amp as soon as you dont need to drive the preamp. A bass cab also is fine, but a lot depends in what speaker and what cab. In general, your assumptions are correct (and not really unusual, especially in the old days...). It will sounds better or worse, bad or good? There you go with the r2drk answer. :)

Yeah, I do always turn on my HX Stomp last in my pedalboard, which gives both my power conditioner and Zuma, the right time to produce the final and stable power output. When you give power to pedalboards, especially if they are pretty busy with many pedals (or even just few hungry pedals that draws lot of current), both voltage and current aren't instantly stabilized for all plugged devices, and the HX Stomp doesn't really like that. (I guess that's why l6 suggest to only use their own PU). I've proved myself that if I turn on everything in a row, the Stomp sometimes does switch off the audio after boot, and after testing with a multimeter, I've seen that the Stomp always switch off the audio when the power (voltage and current) isn't enough or not yet stabilized (like during power up ramp voltage at the conditioning input, which does of course affect the output). Anyway, switching the Stomp after everything else, does give me zero audio blackout. :) - (this of course only make sense if we are NOT using the original PU)

Looks like a standard G45 female USB B that you can buy where you want. Just google "USB B Type G45 Female Socket Connector". https://www.amazon.com/Female-Type-B-4-Pin-Socket-MXRS/dp/B07F6L1DHR?th=1

You can turn all the Stomp touch OFF in the Globals. Only one that stay active is the tap tempo FS, which I do agree is annoying, but all the others are OFF.

Also would be EXTREMELY annoying lol...

With Helix Rack, once you turned FS touch off, unwanted editing it's basically impossible while playing. I mean, yeah....impossible. :)

Sure, we are here to help each other, aren't we? ;) Glad you like it.

If you want to edit and assign stomps (aka Helix hardware footswitches) you need to use the Edit software, which is the right platform to create and edit Helix presets. Native doesnt think stomps as if they were the hardware footswitches (it's a VST expecting other CCs outside the reserved range), in fact keeps those CCs as reserved for hardware only, so you cant assign them - straight from Native, unless you dont turn Hardware Compatibility Off. Stumbled on this problem already...:) https://line6.com/support/topic/59421-is-there-a-way-to-just-use-helix-controlfloor-ccs-for-stomps/

Instant Headache. (looking at the profile, this must be a joke from mods or admins lol!)