PierM

It's a year that I'm using a cheap Amazon Basic SPDIF cable, and just works flawless. Looks pretty much like the one @spaceatl just posted https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01D5H8VR8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (for receiving audio from Helix, through SPID cable, remember to set the Scarlett Sync to "spdif" instead of "internal" or it won't work)

Pretty hard to get same signal from Helix HP and Scarlett HP. You'd need both preamp and impedance matching. I do have a similar setup, with a 6i6, and despite the headphone I use, I do always get a different HP experience. I do have an AKG K141 MKII 55 Ohm, BD 770 Pro 80 Ohm and BD770 Pro 250 Ohm. Oddly enough, the last (220Ohm), it's the headphone that gives me the best "match" between Helix and Scarlett, but the cons is it can be perceived as a low volume for many.

Check in the global settings, that both input and output are set to instrument level. Also you can dial with the impedance setting (Z) in the main input block, to see if you find a better balance, instead of using Auto-Z (that usually works fine with guitars). Just FYI, even without blocks, and unless you have the HX stomp in true bypass mode, there'll always be an A/D/A conversion (DSP is still working). Shouldn't affect the signal in a bad way, but yeah...it's happening.

You need no signal at all to make the G10T switching to standby. Even with volume up, but with no play at all, if you have a noisy/hissy background (because a noisy pickup or hi gain) it can keep running until battery drains. So, I wouldnt really worry about it.

Be sure to flash both trasmitter and receiver. After the firmware, if keeps flashing red, just leave it alone. It should start flashing green after a while. My old G10 with the damn firmware, did the same.

The "hiss" should not be the noise gate (quite the opposite), since this is NOT adding anything to the signal; at the opposite it's fading IN and OUT the signal when its amplitude it's under the threshold. The Noise Gate is commonly used to suppress unwanted noise that is audible when the audio signal is at a low level, so I guess you "feel" like there is no hiss when gate it's turned off, because the signal is not being cut and faded. I never liked the Noise Gates, in any situation, but I dont use high gain so my signal is pretty clean from the start.

Do you have a noise gate somewhere in the chain and/or in the main input settings?

If you are in Europe, Im selling my Infinity Looper, plus controller. That's like 4 hours of recording, or more (depends on the sdcard) ;)

Helix isn't a USB Host, so it can't be done.

Forget the USB for a moment; if you are using the included power supply, and turning the switch to ON doesnt boot the device, then it's either a faulty power supply, or a faulty HX Stomp. In this case, just return it. The USB connection doesnt have any role here. If the unit wont boot, even with an error, the device cant be seen by any computer as it's just offline.

I never said the idea is bad, nor I said you shouldnt report to cops. I believe some of you is arguing for nothing. I only said I never seen a stolen average value instrument, going back to the owner. And of course, all reported as stolen. Personal experience. World is a big place brothers, experience may differ, laws and priorities are different. Didnt want to go that route, as it's going to be boring politics. Happy to see and know someone had a different experience. Everything L6 is doing to help on this matter, is welcome. <peace>

Unless it's really expensive stuff, I understand that cops cant really waste their time, investigating something like stolen pedals, or average guitars...so Im not that surpsrised it's extremely hard to get s**t back. Said that, I still keep track of all my guitars and hardware serials...but imho expensive stuff is being moved far away from where it has been stolen. I mean, like a different area and a different market.

In 35 years of playing and messing around with these things, I never seen a stolen amp, guitar or pedal, going back to the original owner.

AFAIK, you can't do that in Midi Designer. It's all about knobs, faders, or tap, etc etc.

Meh!...sell the Dwarf and grab a Zoia. :) Thank me later.

update; Second cycle lasted a bit more; 6hrs and 30min.

Ah right.

You can import your presets from helix to Native. I do that all the time. What it cant be imported (they are imported, but deprecated in the VST signal flow), are hardware related blocks, like FX Loops / Send&Return. That's obvious since it does require the Helix hardware. Not sure what you mean with "hardware backup" tho.

So, I wanted to give this new version a try, and grabbed one. Firmware is the latest. For the test I'm using my old G10 Receiver/Charger. To avoid any Standby charge leaking, I did a single test, no standby pause; Full Charge, Full Discharge. To do so I plugged the G10TII straight out of my Plus Pedal signal SEND, to feed a continuous signal into it, and prevent the auto-standby. Charging (Red Flashing) started at 10:40 (first charge ever, out of the box) Charging (Solid Green) completed at 12:18 (kept in the charger ~20 extra minutes just to be sure cycle was completed) Play/Duration Test started at 12:36 Play/Red Flashing started at 18:32 Play/Battery died at: 18:49 Battery Charge Duration (Continuous Play); 6hrs, 13min Package Front/Back; Charge Started at 10:40 Charge Completed at 12:18 Playing Test Started at 12:36 Red Flashing started at 18:32 Battery died at 18:49 I will play with it couple of cycles more, then I'll redo the test, to see if there is some improvement. Still, 6 hours is better than 2.5 I was getting with the other G10, after the fire hazard firmware... You can be sure, dear L6; I won't install any new firmware on this thing, ever!

I ordered a G10II, 14 days of return policy...so plenty of time to see how these new versions actually works. I will report here after my tests.

You should also mention where are you getting that noise, I mean which output. I did my own measure with my Stomp, my Rack and my everyday audio interface; USB port; no difference at all in the reference between Stomp and Rack. Through the 1/4" Output, same - no difference. I even tried grabbing a freq response through a measurement mic and a pair of matched Yamaha HS5 (I was tuning up my studio room), and still, no difference between the Rack and Stomp. Visible difference with the other Audio Interface. Helix and Stomp they do produce exactly the same response curve, with basically the same ranges. The very little variations I could see, were just measurement artifacts due the mic position. Be sure you are measuring at settings parity.

If a unit wont boot, and wont respond to any footswitch combo, then there is nothing more you can do. It does need a professional checkup.

You just need a guitar luthier, and a used Variax for the transplant. Not gonna to be cheap, but L6 isn't gonna do any lefty variax. That's the super niche of a extreme niche.

I agree with everything has been said (on paper is all correct), but happens many times that I use my HXStomp setup (a pedalboard with the HXStomp as core), running in the Helix Rack FX Stereo Loop. In all honesty I hear no extra noise, nor latency that I can feel (and I'm extremely picky with latency). This setup is so clean in my experience, that many times I'm using my Rack as advanced routing mixer for recordings and, again, no extra noise/latency. I mean, I'm sure something it's there as nothing is free with DSPs and circuits, but it's not something ruining the tone or the playing feeling. Said that, I'd also save for a full Helix if you need all its benefits. Two HXStomps can be a PITA to manage, as is everything*2.

Just use the Left/Mono OUT.