PierM

@Ed_Saxman What do you mean with "Bidirectional communication between your Helix and your iPad."? I dont think Helix is sending back any status information about basically anything...so when you load a preset, none of the FS toggle status get sent over MIDI. Or maybe Im misunderstanding that "bidirectional" term... :)

Well, on paper every send/return are extra D/A/D conversion, so Im not surprised if that is affecting the tone, other than adding more noise to the noise floor.... and yes - it does. I do certainly get a better tone out of my Iridium when used alone, than when I put it inside an Helix path, using an FX loop. Im pretty sure it's mostly about that extra AD/DA cycle, which cant be totally seamless. Not a deal breaker for sure, totally usable in the mix, but difference it's there.

That's because MUST be on the same DSP (aka same path). If you have preset A with looper on path 1 (DSP1), and preset B with looper on path 2 (DSP 2), it wont work...and, I'd say, for obvious reasons. :)

Just try this; Start from a blank preset, and place a looper block at the end of the path, before the output. Save the preset as it is, just with a looper block. Now save again, in the next preset position, so that you have two identical presets, one after the other. Go back to first one and record something on the looper. Play the loop. Switch to next preset while looper is playing. You will get the looper recording on the second preset as well. Go back and forth, the recording will stay there.

@malhavok is right. If you place the looper exactly on the same place in the two presets (like at the very end of the path, before the output block), the recording does spillover when you roll between them. Just tried and it works.

Nope, you cant (yet). That's from latest firmware; IMPORTANT! Unfortunately, Looper recording or playback will not currently spill over from one preset to another. EDIT: That's wrong, you can. :)

Yes, that's a pain in the arse. Takes literally a minute to raise some params to max... ridicolous.

OP is from 2018. Today that list would be way longer. :)

160€ for a thing that last 2.5hours per charge, I wouldnt really call it cheap. That firmware, that was cheap indeed. :)

This!

Check if you dont have some impedance jump between the two presets. This is from the official notes from L6; "...note that there may be a slight hiccup when switching between two presets with different impedance values for the Guitar Input."

This would require some layering, like the plus pedal does. Would be great, but does require a different algo for the layering, and more params to control them. You should drop the idea in ideascale.

You should buy a Mesa Boogie, Dual Rectifier.

You should update to Helix only if you need a joystick.

I did some comparison between variax detuning/uptuning (not Alt tuning, for the above reasons), and the Helix Poly does seem performing better for uptuning (better tone and attack), whereas Variax (JTV59) sounds to me more convincing when downtuning, even if does warble a bit more for lower drops. Acoustic sim on the JTV is still superior than using the Acoustic sim in the latest firmware imho, but I've seen some youtube using that new block in conjuction with acoustic IRs, and it was sounding just amazing. Still the Variax seems the right choice if you dont want to deal to much with presets and stuff. I dont think Variax is now redundant, at all. Helix can't perform string recognition as the Variax, so I doubt it will ever be a complete alternative.

Well, I sent my floor in Germany (two times) for the joystick issue, and in the service description was described as a soldering issue. The pot base is soldered on the PCB.

Wondering who's/what is doing these soldering at the factory lol. Never seen so many soldering issues as with Line6.

Agree with Zolko. I do have an El Capistan (just a brilliant pedal) and 2 old Oberheim EDPs, because I do really love tape degradation, or digital delay cycle downsampling. Never been a fan of L6 delays/reverb for that reason, they are studio quality, but too cold and sterile for my taste (I said taste, not saying they are bad).

Dont know if does already exist in ideascale, but I really wish they make the rotary pots more dynamic. I mean, it does takes from 40 seconds to an entire MINUTE, spinning that rotary, to assign the max values to some block params (like for example the new poly sustain, or longest delay times). They could just use an EXPonential function that does auto engage if you dont stop spinning the value within X seconds. EDIT; would be also great to have a 100% Wet option on the Poly Sustain block, to play soft in/out drone pads, like I can do with my Gamechanger Plus Pedal.

Anyway, isnt just the PodGo. Even if I connect my Helix Rack (without using amp sim), in front of my Fender Deluxe, it does suck a lot of the original tone and dynamics (other than adding a crazy hiss noise). On the other hand, if I plug my normal pedalboard, with strymon stuff and other pedals, it's all good and flawless. I think there is something on these devices, that these Fender amps are not liking that much....

Works as a toggle, just without the annoying click/clack of a standard footswitch... :) https://www.dropbox.com/s/7gz6swwl1xj28h0/Video 09-12-20%2C 13 40 39.mov?dl=0

I use a Yamaha FC5 straight into the Toe Switch (I dont use a wah so that's a free jack for me). I love the soft clickless feeling, and works fine. It's perfect for stuff like the new Poly Sustain.

I had this few weeks ago, with 2.9x. I fixed resetting Globals. I had/have no idea when and how this started, but at some point I had the left Returns, way louder than right Returns, at impedance parity. Anyway, resetting Globals restored everything to normal.

If you are expecting Helix+FRFR to sound like your Fender amp in your room, sorry, it wont happen in any configuration. What you'll be getting is a tone coming from a mic'ed amp, processed and diffused through FRFR speakers. It wont emulate the amp in the room. So first thing to understand is what kind of tone you are chasing, in the context of your precise expectations. :)

There is NOTHING to rectify or improve in that field. IT IS NOT the joystick that fail. IS A COLD/BAD SOLDERING that breaks, because of joint fatigue that happens when you use the "joystick". That may happen in 2015 or in 2030, unless they do change the front panel design. Would I have preferred the typical four directional buttons instead that joypad? Yes I would have (I do hate that wonky joystick, 2015 or 2020), but it is what it is, and there is nothing you can do, or say, or believe, that it will affect the reality. Hence the looping overthinking. When you send these units for repair, THEY DO NOT replace the joystick (unless you were using an hammer); they do just re-solder the wires with the potentiometer pins over there;