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PierM

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Everything posted by PierM

  1. PierM

    Broken - AGAIN!

    The joystick it's stressing the welding spots as it's not locked on the front panel, as a normal pot/switch. It's just bad design.
  2. Wow, this is a beast of a setup. Are you controlling the Strymon patches*preset, via MIDI?
  3. The Helix stomps and/or the FH1500 stomps, depends if I'm using both or just the amp. (EurekaPROM)
  4. My Fender Telecaster Baja '60 doesn't work with the G10 as it doesn't fit the jack slot. Guitar manufacturer - Fender Guitar model - Baja '60 2014 Does it fit and turn on? - No and No Do you hear audio? - NO Does the adapter solution resolve the issue? NO, as it does not fit because of the angle. Would have worked if straight. PierM
  5. My Godin Summit Classic doesn't work with the G10 as it doesn't fit the jack slot. Guitar manufacturer - Godin Guitar model - Summit Classic 2015 Does it fit and turn on? - No and No Do you hear audio? - NO Does the adapter solution resolve the issue? NO, as it does not fit because of the angle. Would have worked if straight. PierM
  6. It DOES modify the tone of your guitar and yeah, even a cabinet does modify the tone of a guitar, since the tone it's a product of guitar+amp. It's all about frequencies. I do personally use a couple of commercial acoustic strings iRs to shape my tone to a Viola/Fiddle/Cello, using the eBow, and it does indeed shape the tone in a impressive way. A raw piezo output would work better for that, and I hope one day we will see the raw piezo output available in the Variax guitars. :)
  7. Yes you can use the Looper to record from USB, but you need an application, on the host, to route the output to USB 3/4, or 5/6, or 7/8. This is because the USB 1/2 are hardcoded to be routed after the Helix DSP, so you can't process those channels inside a patch, just after. I can do that settings the USB 3/4 channels, as input on the Helix patch, just before the Looper, and then using AUM (Audio Mixer) for iOS to load the audio sample and route the output to 3 and 4. In your case, I guess you can just route to 3/4 in the MacOs audio device preferences.
  8. I just take a picture with my phone, of every single Global Settings page, before an update/reset. I do agree would be great to restore from a file, but I also see Line6 is changing/adding/modifying stuff in the Global Settings area, almost for every major update...so I guess this is also why they are not yet offering that option.
  9. PierM

    Tuner

    You can easily link an external tuner to whatever Helix output (1/4", XLR, Send 1/2/3/4, Digital, USB 1/2/3/4) and then set the Helix Tuner to re-route your guitar to that output you are using and done. Every time you'll press the Tuner button, the signal will be routed to the external tuner too, so no need to add any block to your presets, and your signal path it's not affected by that, in any way, because there is not any return from the external Tuner. I'm doing that by default, works like a charm. This is where the Helix is totally bananas! :)
  10. PierM

    Tuner

    This is a fair point which would explain why I feel so badly the input lag and also that refresh limit would justify the jumpiness because analysis and readout on the screen are not working 1:1. This means, again, we can't rush the tuning. :P
  11. PierM

    Tuner

    Just did that picture on the fly, to show you what I mean; Same signal, this -3.6 should be "spotted" by the Helix, but looks it doesn't care to much. Sometimes it does catch up, sometimes it does not.
  12. PierM

    Tuner

    If for you those chords at the end of the video, are in tune... then we speak different stuff... and this would explain why we never catchup. If I do the same, as in the video, without double/triple checking each string (and fine tune), at the end I get a rubbish tuning. My theory is that the Helix it's not working as per specs, but with less precision, something like -3/+3 cents, and everything inside that Delta is making the tuner jumping back and forward...and on top of that I do perceive an input lag, so the readout it's not relative to the actual tuning. To me it's all in the precision (imho not matching the specs) and the input lag/interface so when I get a green blink I could be already after that. I'm a broken record on this as I'm pretty sure it's all about that, and this is why the Helix tuner (IMHO) can't be used for mute tuning. The video proves that, to my ears. Guitar it is not in tune.
  13. PierM

    Tuner

    So that video should prove what? I'd rather tuning in the ballpark with my own ears than tuning that way. That was, at least, a tuning with a possible error range in between -13/+13 cents. May be good if you play some two finger boxed powachords, but sorry no, doesn't work. I see the jumpiness, I see the tuner being late all the time, and in the rushed out double check I've seen the tuner being wrong on the first attempt...and also without listening the notes and some chords, how do you know was in tune? Really guys, is that video showing a good tuner for you? Oh well, I'm for sure OCD! :lol: :lol:
  14. Move on the block you want to assign/un-assign, then click the Menu button (top left, just at the right of the save button). Then click on the Bypass Assign (first rotary under the Helix Screen). You'll see in that page the "Switch" field. There you can spin the rotary to assign/un-assign a footswitch. Hope this helps.
  15. PierM

    Tuner

    My own Peterson (stroboPlus HD) does stop dead and does NOT jump at all. It just spin, ONE DIRECTION depends if Flat or Sharp, and then stops when you are in tune. After that, if you pick again, you are still there. With the Helix, I can pick same string 10 times, and get 10 different readout, and/or just leave a note ringing for 12 seconds, and get the Helix tuner jumping from flat to sharp to flat to sharp to flat...etc. I can't believe you are really comparing a Peterson to the Helix. :) Of course I'm not asking Line 6 to make the Helix tuner working like a 150$ Peterson Tuner, but at least let's try to be realistic here.
  16. Its 10 years I use Cantabile, and I find it the perfect easy peasy software to play VSTs without installing useless libraries and fat applications. Works flawless and I also did lot of live performances with it, without skipping a beat. Not affiliated in any way with it, just a happy user.. :) https://www.cantabilesoftware.com
  17. Yeah I tried that above, as one of the first attempts, but did not work. As for Peter suggestion to go with the Rack+Controller, again, would be even worse because you have two distant units instead just one and that is like dancing between guitar, floor controller and helix rack. That is the exact opposite than what I'm used to. Seems like the only way is to save the "live" presets with all blocks OFF (apart the core amp/IRs/preamp) and then using the FCB1010 to select the snapshots and/or the single blocks, while using the touch on the Helix board to quickly recall a block and make the edit on the fly. In the past (with different DSPs) I was using my BCR2000 to assign the various effect parameters, that I wanted to change on the fly, to all the various rotaries, and that was working great....but I can't manage to make it working with the Helix for the exact same reasons. The Helix is a dream machine, but the MIDI support is really basic, unfortunately. Thanks anyway! :)
  18. Sorry for the cable mess.... :lol:
  19. Sorry but looks like you lack a bit of knowledge in avantgard jazz, or ambient music in general, where the live editing is part of the performance. Just watch some video of artists like Frisell with his DL4 to understand what Im talking about. ;)
  20. Sure, of course we are talking about bidirection MIDI IN/OUT. :) As I said, it works with Kemper and Fractal, and also with many other applications. Line6 does not allow that, for some reason, or at least looks like that. You can see an example in this video
  21. FCB1010 does what it's programmed in the Eprom. The Eprom I'm using now (Eurekaprom 3.2) can mimic perfectly the Helix floorboard and it's already working, so I can toggle on/off all the Helix footswitch. I can tap tempo, call the tuner, change bank/preset, turn on/off the blocks etc... but I can't get the starting point block status when rolling between presets, and for what I see in the MIDI signal, seems nothing is sent apart the bank/preset information. My dreamrig would be to get the actual block status, from Helix back to the FCB1010, so I don't have to start with all blocks OFF to make the two units work in sync and this way what I'd press with hands on the helix would be mirrored on the FCB1010, and viceversa. This is totally working, bidirectional, with Kemper, Fractal, Avid etc... but seems like Line6 does not allow that. Helix rack, you still have to go down with your body to touch the footswitch and recall a block you want to edit on the fly, and the joystick/rotary is not really good to make these kind of changes because it's slow and erratic (you can easily spin the block). I mean, live changes on the fly, not in studio/house editing. :)
  22. Hi guys. I'm trying to program a FCB1010 (with Eurekaprom 3.2) to be a mirror of the floorboard, so I basically mapped all 10 pedals to work as the 10 footswitch on the Helix. This is working fine, except I can't find a way to send back a #CC to the FCB1010 to reflect the actual status of the pedals on the Helix. Do you guys know if Helix is sending any information, through MIDI output, about block bypass status (block ON/OFF)? Kemper does this, as Fractal and many other units, but I can't find any info about the Helix. If you are asking why I'm doing that is because I need the Helix on a stand as I need to edit on the fly so the mirror on the floor FCB1010, would work perfect for me. Thanks in advance. :)
  23. Click the Bluetooth button on the FH1500 until it will flash. Now redo the pairing with the iPad. Worked for me, same iOS version.
  24. If you opened the unit I would say you void your warranty. Good move posting it here. :)
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