PierM

If for you those chords at the end of the video, are in tune... then we speak different stuff... and this would explain why we never catchup. If I do the same, as in the video, without double/triple checking each string (and fine tune), at the end I get a rubbish tuning. My theory is that the Helix it's not working as per specs, but with less precision, something like -3/+3 cents, and everything inside that Delta is making the tuner jumping back and forward...and on top of that I do perceive an input lag, so the readout it's not relative to the actual tuning. To me it's all in the precision (imho not matching the specs) and the input lag/interface so when I get a green blink I could be already after that. I'm a broken record on this as I'm pretty sure it's all about that, and this is why the Helix tuner (IMHO) can't be used for mute tuning. The video proves that, to my ears. Guitar it is not in tune.

So that video should prove what? I'd rather tuning in the ballpark with my own ears than tuning that way. That was, at least, a tuning with a possible error range in between -13/+13 cents. May be good if you play some two finger boxed powachords, but sorry no, doesn't work. I see the jumpiness, I see the tuner being late all the time, and in the rushed out double check I've seen the tuner being wrong on the first attempt...and also without listening the notes and some chords, how do you know was in tune? Really guys, is that video showing a good tuner for you? Oh well, I'm for sure OCD! :lol: :lol:

Move on the block you want to assign/un-assign, then click the Menu button (top left, just at the right of the save button). Then click on the Bypass Assign (first rotary under the Helix Screen). You'll see in that page the "Switch" field. There you can spin the rotary to assign/un-assign a footswitch. Hope this helps.

My own Peterson (stroboPlus HD) does stop dead and does NOT jump at all. It just spin, ONE DIRECTION depends if Flat or Sharp, and then stops when you are in tune. After that, if you pick again, you are still there. With the Helix, I can pick same string 10 times, and get 10 different readout, and/or just leave a note ringing for 12 seconds, and get the Helix tuner jumping from flat to sharp to flat to sharp to flat...etc. I can't believe you are really comparing a Peterson to the Helix. :) Of course I'm not asking Line 6 to make the Helix tuner working like a 150$ Peterson Tuner, but at least let's try to be realistic here.

Its 10 years I use Cantabile, and I find it the perfect easy peasy software to play VSTs without installing useless libraries and fat applications. Works flawless and I also did lot of live performances with it, without skipping a beat. Not affiliated in any way with it, just a happy user.. :) https://www.cantabilesoftware.com

Yeah I tried that above, as one of the first attempts, but did not work. As for Peter suggestion to go with the Rack+Controller, again, would be even worse because you have two distant units instead just one and that is like dancing between guitar, floor controller and helix rack. That is the exact opposite than what I'm used to. Seems like the only way is to save the "live" presets with all blocks OFF (apart the core amp/IRs/preamp) and then using the FCB1010 to select the snapshots and/or the single blocks, while using the touch on the Helix board to quickly recall a block and make the edit on the fly. In the past (with different DSPs) I was using my BCR2000 to assign the various effect parameters, that I wanted to change on the fly, to all the various rotaries, and that was working great....but I can't manage to make it working with the Helix for the exact same reasons. The Helix is a dream machine, but the MIDI support is really basic, unfortunately. Thanks anyway! :)

Sorry for the cable mess.... :lol:

Sorry but looks like you lack a bit of knowledge in avantgard jazz, or ambient music in general, where the live editing is part of the performance. Just watch some video of artists like Frisell with his DL4 to understand what Im talking about. ;)

Sure, of course we are talking about bidirection MIDI IN/OUT. :) As I said, it works with Kemper and Fractal, and also with many other applications. Line6 does not allow that, for some reason, or at least looks like that. You can see an example in this video

FCB1010 does what it's programmed in the Eprom. The Eprom I'm using now (Eurekaprom 3.2) can mimic perfectly the Helix floorboard and it's already working, so I can toggle on/off all the Helix footswitch. I can tap tempo, call the tuner, change bank/preset, turn on/off the blocks etc... but I can't get the starting point block status when rolling between presets, and for what I see in the MIDI signal, seems nothing is sent apart the bank/preset information. My dreamrig would be to get the actual block status, from Helix back to the FCB1010, so I don't have to start with all blocks OFF to make the two units work in sync and this way what I'd press with hands on the helix would be mirrored on the FCB1010, and viceversa. This is totally working, bidirectional, with Kemper, Fractal, Avid etc... but seems like Line6 does not allow that. Helix rack, you still have to go down with your body to touch the footswitch and recall a block you want to edit on the fly, and the joystick/rotary is not really good to make these kind of changes because it's slow and erratic (you can easily spin the block). I mean, live changes on the fly, not in studio/house editing. :)

Hi guys. I'm trying to program a FCB1010 (with Eurekaprom 3.2) to be a mirror of the floorboard, so I basically mapped all 10 pedals to work as the 10 footswitch on the Helix. This is working fine, except I can't find a way to send back a #CC to the FCB1010 to reflect the actual status of the pedals on the Helix. Do you guys know if Helix is sending any information, through MIDI output, about block bypass status (block ON/OFF)? Kemper does this, as Fractal and many other units, but I can't find any info about the Helix. If you are asking why I'm doing that is because I need the Helix on a stand as I need to edit on the fly so the mirror on the floor FCB1010, would work perfect for me. Thanks in advance. :)

Click the Bluetooth button on the FH1500 until it will flash. Now redo the pairing with the iPad. Worked for me, same iOS version.

If you opened the unit I would say you void your warranty. Good move posting it here. :)

^^Following^^

MIDI is now open and working. I just programmed one of my FCB1010 (UNO chip) to work with the amp, and it works flawless! Well done L6 and thanks for the update. :)

Volume knob in this firmware looks working LOG instead LINEAR.

Sorry but, why they would need videos? For what? Do they need a proof of what we are saying? Or maybe you guys want to start 3 hundreds more sub paragraph about "how you had your volume in the video? how you had your tone? which pickup you were using? which guitar cable are you using? You are picking wrong! You should pick that way, in the decay, no in the attack....etc etc etc...." Because, apart showing the issue (explained with easy words by everyone, dozen of times already), a video isn't giving them any kind of extra information or data about how to solve the problem. Unless we don't send them our guitars and our Helix, so they can repro locally and make a case study for every single guitar. Seriously? Again, for me it's not "unusable": It's just spoiled to some guitars and totally a mess with others. But since this seems a never ending story, I'm personally done. I could even use my 5$ tuner on the iphone, and getting less erratic tuning. Peace everyone. :)

With all the due respect, my personal opinion is that if you have nothing to say about that, because you are not experiencing the same issues and/or because you have no clue about why other users are getting such crazy different experiences (that what you said before), you should not post at all, especially if you are trying to convince everyone else that the issue it's not on the unit, but on my side. That is really annoying, because it's suggesting we are trolls and you the "honest" guy. Even worse, if you believe you are the guy to trust because you are a beta testers. No offense, but means nothing really. We do have dozen of beta testers reporting very opposite problems. That is a very typical situation in beta testing. That is where you turn on your debugger and try to replicate the issue. Problems here is, since it's not an operational issue/bug, it's hard to give the L6 devs a sequence of actions, to replicate the issue on their side. So I do understand, totally, that it's a pain in the butt to solve these kind of things. Still, doesn't means it's all in our minds. But I honestly doubt L6 guys are 100% happy with the tuner reliability, not talking about on paper resolution, precision and stuff like that. Precision can be totally useless if, for some reason, there is a bottleneck before or after the tracking algo, or something preventing the signal analysis to be processed and sent to the GPU as quick as possible. Who knows. A tuner is a very basic device for the final user...it's not really like learning to play a saxophone. They should work properly with the last of the noobs as with the best of the jazz nerds, with the cleanest pick style in the galaxy. Also, I never said it's unusable. Over here seems just erratic along different guitars (aka different kind of signals and frequencies). So in my opinion that should be the area to R&D; making the tuner less spoiled and more reliable with the "on the fly" tuning. Don't take this personal, but it's probably the third thread about same topic, and every time it's the same story. It's like bees protecting the hive... :) Peace.

I'm a dev myself (different market), but our company does really hate denial people. We usually need all kind of constructive feedback, not just people trying to defend their toys and treating other guys like idiots. I'm sure it works the same at L6. Proof is they are keep improving and developing, despite the fact you were seeing fanboys saying it was perfect after day 1. :)

It's not really about like or not. It's just about being more or less "reliable" in various conditions, which for my personal experience, it is not (yet). As we believe you guys being totally happy with it, you should accept and believe other users who are not getting your same experience. You may not like my Peterson (whatever this means), but it does never skip a beat and I could not care less to endorse one or the other product. :)

I've a stroboplus which is for me my benchmark, so I did check various ways to tune with the Helix and tuning on the attack gave me the worst result. This is what usually happen with a Tele that I have, which has a crazy glassy peak and quick decay, so I'm forced to tune that way (multiple pick, tuning on the attack as the tracking drops pretty quickly). Well if I check this guitar with the stroboblus just after Helix (which I do have in a send from the Helix) it's never in tune, just a mix of sharp and flat. That same guitar does tune perfectly through the Stroboplus. At the opposite, when I tune on a different guitar (which has a crazy sustain and does ring forever), I just pick and wait the tracking to stabilize (while tuning the string) and that works much better for me, and it's usually confirmed on the stroboplus. I'm not talking about 10 seconds here, just 1 or 2 seconds after picking. I'm not really a shredder and I think I do have a pretty gentle picking and also does happen I tune on the fly with no pick at all. Also, with the stroboplus I always tune on the decay, as wouldn't work very fine on the attack. I know the theory about the attack is where you perceive most of the pitch but for some reason this is not being confirmed by the tools I tried. I don't think there is a correct way to tune. I think it's always a matter of finding the best set between player style, tuner and guitar/pickup. I do have a good pack of guitars, and the Helix does not really work the same with all of them, at all, while the peterson does look like it doesn't really care of the guitar. It just tune whatever thing you put in. Of course I'm not expecting the Helix to be like a Peterson, so I'm ok with that, since I didn't buy the Helix to tune my guitars. Said that I'm sure it can be improved. :)

I found that my Helix does not like guitars with a quick decay, because it seems a bit slow on tracking. I've no issues with guitars with plenty of sustain, where I can pick and let the tuner tracking the note, while tuning, but it's working twitchy with guitars with low output and quick decay, where I need to pick multiple times (which is not good as every pick has its own overtones and variables). The best way I've found (for me) to tune with Helix is to NOT pick multiple times, just once, and tuning while decaying. So yeah, I've no issues with some guitars, but can be twitchy and jumpy with others.

There are possible issues with soldering quality and stability on the back panels. The joystick/rotary it's one of the weak spots. Also the screen, on the floorboard, is easy to be kicked as there are not protections to prevent that. Since day one I've been complaining on that and in my humble opinion the unit it's more studio oriented than tour grade. I'm quite stressed when I'm playing live with this thing, since my style needs needs some realtime editing and tweaking straight on the board, and a failure could be pretty much pathetic to manage. I've sent the unit back for a repair on the joystick, which stopped working because of a soldering issue, now it's back with another issue where I need to push like crazy to make it click on the right selection.

You can do the same, in a better way, using the USB. I do that all the time with my iPhone and iPad.

What's the deal with the missing Aux? Just use a USB compliance device, works great, it's fully digital, you've total control on it and no extra noise in the channel. It's 2017, let's use proper technology. :)