PierM

I guess with "monitoring inputs" he meant how to monitor levels, not how to link his helix to monitors. If so, you can just connect your Helix USB to a compliance device running a monitoring software. I'm using an iPad with a pro app and it works great.

Bit machine and Helix delay times are starting together, but after few minutes they are totally off, because Helix is accumulating that extra bit/bits on its own. Would be probably helpful to have an option to fine tuning the sync offset.

^I can confirm this above ^ Linked a RC300 to Helix, and mastering that one with the RC300 clock. The Helix it's always a bit quicker.

Do whatever thing works better for you. When it comes to "hybrids" as you are doing, it will never be the same as before, without the digital part in the middle. If you are aiming to got back that "clarity" it's not going to happen because of that big black thing in the middle and could be basically the same even with a single extra circuit between your guitar and your old amps. The only thing you could do is to create your analog pedalboard, with true bypass pedals, and forget about digital. To me looks like you are sort of fighting with ghosts but soon or later you have to decide which is the compromise working better for you.

Thanks for the input. Nice stuff. I'm programming one of my old FCB1010 with UNO Chip, to work as bass pedal, and seems working great. It's lot of fun! :)

Yes. The mouse drag has to target the first in the list, as well to target the first position in the Helix iR bank, and there it will start the "drop". Always been like that and I think it's intentional.

I just put a number in front of each IR name, same number as the position in the Helix IR bank. This way I can just sort by name/number, drag and drop in position. Easy peasy.

A W/D/W does require 3 paths, so it's impossible to make it working with a L/R Stereo pair. All I'd need is a better DSP crossover programming, to better assign frequencies to the different speakers when using the Monitor IN, and some fix for the digital hiss. But imho the size ratio between the center speakers and the two coaxial it's too big, so it's really hard to balance the output without overflooding the stereo drivers, or without compressing the entire scheme, as it is now. I stopped my wishful thinking on that product, honestly. It's bad engineered, as stereo monitor.

How can people leave a feedback if had to wait for people to leave a feedback, before update?

Wow that is cool... B) I've two FCB1010 parked in my old crap warehouse....one of them has the UNO chip, which has (if I remember correctly) the option to make pedals acting momentary... Would be great if I could manage to make one of those a, sort of, bass pedal... :ph34r: That's good stuff to experiment with, next weekend! Thanks!

My Volume knob is maxed out since day 1 lol. I could even glue it....so for me really a non issue. I prefer to control volumes post-Helix, or per Amp block, to reduce any unwanted extra noise coming from bottom floor signals.

I'm fine with that but still; I've stuff in the Helix that I don't know how to use properly (the synths), and judging by what I see over here, I'm not alone. Also, should not be mandatory for a musician to come over here and spend hours of his time to search for information. That's why someone invented the operational manuals.

No, there is not. I do also think would be the time for a manual update, considered the huge amount of changes. Same boat as you with OSC stuff. Would really like to see some proper advice about that stuff which I never used before. I hate to feel a noob!! :lol: :lol:

Hard to tell from the picture, as this is just the output section. BTW, I just uploaded the preset I'm using, to make the FH1500 a FRFR monitor with the minimum amount of extra noise coming from the built-in processor. You can go to Tone Cloud, using your app, and search for "Blank FRFR". You'll find my preset. Just save it either on your local tones or in your FH1500, better if in a empty preset. With this one you'll be setting your amp as it should to be used just as Monitor. Just be sure to load this every time you turn on the amp and want to use it as FRFR. As for the levels you are using, unless you don't need to mix different sources, you could keep your guitar input at 70/100% and then just use the Overall to control the final output. 50% is a bit weak and could force you to use high overall volumes, introducing extra hiss because of the Signal To Noise floor. Ok for the wide stereo if you like. Speaker Mode set to WALL is good if you really have the amp close to a wall, but in general would be better to keep a bit of air around, and set it just as FLOOR. Let me know if this helps. :)

C'mon it's not rocket science! :) In that page you linked, you have 3 rolldown choices in the top. There put Helix on the first, ALL SOFTWARE on the second, and Windows 10 (or your OS) on the third. You'll be redirect to a page with ALL software you need; Editor, Workbench and Updater. ;)

I'd also try to roll back to a previous firmware. I've seen people solving that way. In general; I would invest 40 or 50 bucks in a 300Watt UPS (APC or similar). You'll get a stabilized and filtered line, voltage stabilization, power protection and spike leveling, plus a good battery backup which give you a good 20/30 minutes of energy to (hopefully) conclude the process. Not sure what would happen if Helix stay awake but you drop the internet connection. Probably nothing, as the Helix start updating once the update has been cached.

Update seems working great! Few things; Seems the MIDI clock sync does skip some bit and it does not sync back. I just had few sessions using RC300 mastering the Helix, but after few minutes I saw the Helix was not blinking same tempo. Then I tried to test my theory assigning the tempo to a delay with 100% feedback, and I've seen that was changing along time (was like speeding up, very slowly). Odd stuff. Second thing; I'm not sure I got how the OSC are working. I heard they are working through momentary switches but how? Can we have some procedure to make it working? Love the autoswell!!! ;)

You can connect your Axe L/R output to the FH1500 monitor input, and set gain pot to zero (middle position). This scheme is already bypassing the effect/modeling chain in the amp, but it's better to create a FH1500 preset with all OFF, so you don't get extra noise produced by blocks running in the preset, despite the fact you are not running through that route. To do so you can use the Firehawk app, create a preset with all blocks off, and in the amp section you can load a NO AMP model from the "clean" amp list. Save this as "BLANK PRESET" and put it in your Tones, or store it in the Amp. Just remember to load this preset every time you use your AXE. In alternative, you can connect your AXE L/R to the L/R Returns in the FH1500. In both cases check both units are running at same Line or Instrument level.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Sigh. Helix came back just now. Rotary is now working, but the right selection is sluggish as hell. You need to push really hard to make it working, and it does not make the typical "click". What a pain in the butt. Really tempted to throw the thing out of the window.

Would be definitely good too have a large text render of the snapshot/preset numbers on the top and name on the bottom. Very cool idea.

I have zero issues with people asking money for their work. My personal experience is that they probably won't work as teased because of all Non-Helix variables. Guitar, pickup, speakers, style, room/ambient and sometimes, firmware version which does f--k up the entire patch. I tried once, buying a jazz tone pack from Scott, and none of them was barely usable for me, while they were sounding nice on the tease video. Was also an odd routing style which does not work for me. Also, the patch creation is one of the best parts of creating a tone. A pleasure with the Helix interface.

Mine is 2 weeks in the lab, and I think it's another 2 weeks to come back. That is a pain really. EDIT; just got the great news the Helix is coming back from Germany! And guess what? Was a soldering issue....... .... ...

Problem with Helix reverbs is trails are too harsh and, as for basically everything else, they needs to be cut properly through the low/high cuts you have in the reverb block... but I've to say, if you manage to try a BigSky, there is no competition, probably because they have lot of post modulation options to "detach" the trails from the main dry, producing a round tone without flooding the signal as the Helix does. I also find the Helix reverbs are lacking dynamics, they tends to be flat and clamped. I'm confident they'll be improved soon or later.

I would put in the competition the Friedman ASM12, which is same price range as the L2m, and in my opinion the best in the pack. If I manage to sell my FH1500 and the L2M I'm gonna grab a pair of those and be probably happy for the next 10 years! :)