PierM

Yeah. As soon as you plug a signal in the FH1500 Guitar In, all speakers are engaged, no matter the stereo/mono scheme. Just build a blank preset in the FH1500 (especially no amp no cab), and be sure your Helix is sending a signal @ instrument level, and you should be fine. As a personal suggestion, if you are not using the Monitor IN on the back of the amp, turn the GAIN all way down to kill the residual noise produced by that stage.

Nothing special; the FH1500 DSP does swap from L/R to L+R, using same speakers.

Running Helix 100% wet effects into the Monitor IN - AND - sending a DRY in the Guitar IN, is activating the Horn speaker. This is of course a W/D/W.

Did you read the reply to that support ticket? [2] Original Helix ticket reply: Quote

Point is L6 it's not wasting its time reading forums, so this is the typical case where you need a coordinate action between people, in the form of multiple support ticket requests, all complaining for the tuner, or a massive campaign on ideascale. Problem is sometimes people loves to rant on forums, but it's too lazy to act properly. Works the same in real life.

Buy an external pedal and forget about the one in the Helix LT. I think this is the only way you have to solve the problem, IF the problem does exist on a constant basis.

Oh, in 20 years I've been a L6 customer, I never complained for the support. They are number one.

Mine suffered a solder joint break, that what have been reported on the RMA paper. Now it's starting skipping some clicks too. As for the numbers, oh well, I've seen really A LOT of people with that problem. On big numbers may be a small percentage, but still I've seen really A LOT of guys around forums, facebook etc, facing the issue.

The joystick it's stressing the welding spots as it's not locked on the front panel, as a normal pot/switch. It's just bad design.

Wow, this is a beast of a setup. Are you controlling the Strymon patches*preset, via MIDI?

The Helix stomps and/or the FH1500 stomps, depends if I'm using both or just the amp. (EurekaPROM)

My Fender Telecaster Baja '60 doesn't work with the G10 as it doesn't fit the jack slot. Guitar manufacturer - Fender Guitar model - Baja '60 2014 Does it fit and turn on? - No and No Do you hear audio? - NO Does the adapter solution resolve the issue? NO, as it does not fit because of the angle. Would have worked if straight. PierM

My Godin Summit Classic doesn't work with the G10 as it doesn't fit the jack slot. Guitar manufacturer - Godin Guitar model - Summit Classic 2015 Does it fit and turn on? - No and No Do you hear audio? - NO Does the adapter solution resolve the issue? NO, as it does not fit because of the angle. Would have worked if straight. PierM

It DOES modify the tone of your guitar and yeah, even a cabinet does modify the tone of a guitar, since the tone it's a product of guitar+amp. It's all about frequencies. I do personally use a couple of commercial acoustic strings iRs to shape my tone to a Viola/Fiddle/Cello, using the eBow, and it does indeed shape the tone in a impressive way. A raw piezo output would work better for that, and I hope one day we will see the raw piezo output available in the Variax guitars. :)

Yes you can use the Looper to record from USB, but you need an application, on the host, to route the output to USB 3/4, or 5/6, or 7/8. This is because the USB 1/2 are hardcoded to be routed after the Helix DSP, so you can't process those channels inside a patch, just after. I can do that settings the USB 3/4 channels, as input on the Helix patch, just before the Looper, and then using AUM (Audio Mixer) for iOS to load the audio sample and route the output to 3 and 4. In your case, I guess you can just route to 3/4 in the MacOs audio device preferences.

I just take a picture with my phone, of every single Global Settings page, before an update/reset. I do agree would be great to restore from a file, but I also see Line6 is changing/adding/modifying stuff in the Global Settings area, almost for every major update...so I guess this is also why they are not yet offering that option.

You can easily link an external tuner to whatever Helix output (1/4", XLR, Send 1/2/3/4, Digital, USB 1/2/3/4) and then set the Helix Tuner to re-route your guitar to that output you are using and done. Every time you'll press the Tuner button, the signal will be routed to the external tuner too, so no need to add any block to your presets, and your signal path it's not affected by that, in any way, because there is not any return from the external Tuner. I'm doing that by default, works like a charm. This is where the Helix is totally bananas! :)

This is a fair point which would explain why I feel so badly the input lag and also that refresh limit would justify the jumpiness because analysis and readout on the screen are not working 1:1. This means, again, we can't rush the tuning. :P

Just did that picture on the fly, to show you what I mean; Same signal, this -3.6 should be "spotted" by the Helix, but looks it doesn't care to much. Sometimes it does catch up, sometimes it does not.

If for you those chords at the end of the video, are in tune... then we speak different stuff... and this would explain why we never catchup. If I do the same, as in the video, without double/triple checking each string (and fine tune), at the end I get a rubbish tuning. My theory is that the Helix it's not working as per specs, but with less precision, something like -3/+3 cents, and everything inside that Delta is making the tuner jumping back and forward...and on top of that I do perceive an input lag, so the readout it's not relative to the actual tuning. To me it's all in the precision (imho not matching the specs) and the input lag/interface so when I get a green blink I could be already after that. I'm a broken record on this as I'm pretty sure it's all about that, and this is why the Helix tuner (IMHO) can't be used for mute tuning. The video proves that, to my ears. Guitar it is not in tune.

So that video should prove what? I'd rather tuning in the ballpark with my own ears than tuning that way. That was, at least, a tuning with a possible error range in between -13/+13 cents. May be good if you play some two finger boxed powachords, but sorry no, doesn't work. I see the jumpiness, I see the tuner being late all the time, and in the rushed out double check I've seen the tuner being wrong on the first attempt...and also without listening the notes and some chords, how do you know was in tune? Really guys, is that video showing a good tuner for you? Oh well, I'm for sure OCD! :lol: :lol:

Move on the block you want to assign/un-assign, then click the Menu button (top left, just at the right of the save button). Then click on the Bypass Assign (first rotary under the Helix Screen). You'll see in that page the "Switch" field. There you can spin the rotary to assign/un-assign a footswitch. Hope this helps.

My own Peterson (stroboPlus HD) does stop dead and does NOT jump at all. It just spin, ONE DIRECTION depends if Flat or Sharp, and then stops when you are in tune. After that, if you pick again, you are still there. With the Helix, I can pick same string 10 times, and get 10 different readout, and/or just leave a note ringing for 12 seconds, and get the Helix tuner jumping from flat to sharp to flat to sharp to flat...etc. I can't believe you are really comparing a Peterson to the Helix. :) Of course I'm not asking Line 6 to make the Helix tuner working like a 150$ Peterson Tuner, but at least let's try to be realistic here.

Its 10 years I use Cantabile, and I find it the perfect easy peasy software to play VSTs without installing useless libraries and fat applications. Works flawless and I also did lot of live performances with it, without skipping a beat. Not affiliated in any way with it, just a happy user.. :) https://www.cantabilesoftware.com

Yeah I tried that above, as one of the first attempts, but did not work. As for Peter suggestion to go with the Rack+Controller, again, would be even worse because you have two distant units instead just one and that is like dancing between guitar, floor controller and helix rack. That is the exact opposite than what I'm used to. Seems like the only way is to save the "live" presets with all blocks OFF (apart the core amp/IRs/preamp) and then using the FCB1010 to select the snapshots and/or the single blocks, while using the touch on the Helix board to quickly recall a block and make the edit on the fly. In the past (with different DSPs) I was using my BCR2000 to assign the various effect parameters, that I wanted to change on the fly, to all the various rotaries, and that was working great....but I can't manage to make it working with the Helix for the exact same reasons. The Helix is a dream machine, but the MIDI support is really basic, unfortunately. Thanks anyway! :)