PierM

A tuner which is not shaking and changing mind about a note 20 times per second. And btw, please, stop jumping that gun for everything people say which is not gonna celebrate your toys. Jeez.

Nope. If you use a TS/TS, connected to the dedicated EXP link (which is the one using the proper pot impedance for the Helix) you get a V shape curve. If you use the Vol out (which is producing a bad curve and more dead spot) then you can use a TS/TS and inverse in the Helix. At least this is what I get for both my FV-500H.

I've two FV-500H. They works (great for me, once you are used to it) but you need to know few things before to buy; there are noticeable dead spots for both heel and toe Total sweep is 18°. Heel Spot is 4°. Toe Spot is 4°. Real Sweep is 10°. Helix pedal is Total Sweep 17°. Heel Spot is 1.5°. Toe Spot is 3°. Real Sweep is 12.5°. After that you'd need to create a dedicated cable;

+10! Voted!

Means it does communicate with you in a proper way, without being too twitchy and +/- jumpy, and in a short time. Sure it's me; with a Peterson took 1 minute to full tune the guitar, usually 1 pick per string + adjustments, with the Helix took much more. That's it guys. You can keep laughin at people, this is not going to change the truth. :) Tuning is also a different world for everyone. There's people obsessed by tuning, offsets, temperament, and stuff like that, like me, and other great players who are playing out of tune all the time but they sometimes compensate with fingers and neck movements, or just it is the music genre which doesn't really demands any anal approach to that aspect. But hey, I really do not give a damn. I didn't buy the Helix to tune my guitars. LOL. If you are happy with it, YAY. Good for you guys, enjoy! peace. :)

It has never been an "accuracy" issue for me. Problem was (and still is) the way it communicate with me, visually, and what it is trying to analyze realtime (laggy if you ask me). It is twitchy, it is jumpy, and sometimes (for some reason I have no clue about), it needs an extra boost in the signal to start recognizing. Accuracy is there, because when you manage to produce the "magic" note (most of the time using harmonics) it does show a correct value for a proper amount of time, before jumping off again. You can buy a thermometer working with -/+ 0.1°C accuracy factor, but if start jumping +2, -1, +0.5, -3, no read, +1% etc etc, doesn't mean it can't work at 0.1% factor, means it is working erratic and unstable, and it probably needs some very specific environment status to work at its best. That is what I get since day 1, and that is with 9/10 of my guitars, because last one isn't recognized at all (7 string mounting a Lundgren M7), besides that it has a HUGE output. If you believe this Tuner is working properly, sorry, means you never ever used a serious tuner before. :)

This last does not fit the Helix. Tried myself in a store. :)

I'm using this one and it works perfect (doesn't move a millimeter), and the angle make Helix easy to edit;

5/7 Harmonics method – Does not work! This method seems to have a strange attraction for many guitarists. Not least because it’s such a convenient method, which leaves the fretting hand free to tune with, many guitarists cling stubbornly to harmonics tuning, despite the recurrent tuning difficulties it causes. The simple fact is that the method cannot possibly work, as all harmonics are pure intervals, and the frets are placed to give equal tempered intervals. With the exception of the octave and double octave harmonics (octaves are pure in both the pure and the tempered scales) harmonics should not be used for fine-tuning. The most common harmonics method is the “5/7†where the high E is tuned to a reference, and the 5th fret harmonic on the low E, to the open high E. The 7th fret harmonic on the A is tuned to the 5th fret harmonic on the low E. The 7th fret harmonic on the D is tuned to the 5th fret harmonic on the A. The 7th fret harmonic on the G is tuned to the 5th fret harmonic on the D. The 5th fret harmonic on the B is tuned to the 7th fret harmonic on the high E. Many users of this method also delude themselves that the 4th fret harmonic on the G string should sound the same frequency as the 5th fret harmonic on the B string. A guitar tuned this way will, quite simply, not play in tune. The reason is simple – the 7th fret harmonic on the A string sounds the note E, the fifth . But this is a pure fifth interval (to be pedantic, an octave and a fifth). The tempered fifth is lowered two cents from pure. The resulting open A note will therefore be two cents flatter than the tempered A we want. The interval between the low E and the A strings should be a tempered fourth, which is raised two cents from pure. Since the A string has been tuned two cents flat the E – A interval will be flat by the same amount. Two cents isn’t much but when you tune the D to the A the same way, the D ends up four cents flat. When you get to the G you will be six cents flat. Tuning the 5th fret harmonic on the B string to the (pure fifth) 7th fret harmonic on the high E leaves the open B sharp by two cents. The resulting open G to open B major third interval will be eight cents sharp. Trying to tune the B string to the G by harmonics will really get you into trouble. The 4th fret harmonic on the G string sounds the major third of G – a B note. But again, this is a pure interval. The tempered third is raised fully 14 cents from pure. Tuning the 5th fret harmonic on the B string to the pure third on the G will leave the B 14 cents flat. Try it and then compare the 4th fret B on the G string to the open B – you’ll see what I mean. It should be obvious by now that harmonics – other than octaves – are not to be trusted! They are useful for the initial coarse tuning, however, as the fretting hand is free to tune while both strings are sounding. Just don’t try to use them to fine tune. That is from here (plenty of good info) http://www.truetemperament.com/tuning-methods-evaluated/

My main tuner is a Peterson and I don't have any issue with it. Never ever had one, with any guitar. Said that it's obvious you have to tune on decay and not on the attack, but this is not really the problem with the Helix. Problem is Helix tuner is erratic, looks like it is not capable to analyze the signal when this is changing its amplitude, and outside that optimal range he needs, it starts to jump nuts. This is why it tends to work better using harmonics, because you get a very stable and long signal, but which is really not 100% correct unless you are using a true temperament guitar. For example, if I check my guitars intonation with the Helix, they can be all wrong and all right at the same time. It just depends on randomness. I'll keep using my Peterson. ;)

Sorry to say the Tuner is still pretty much erratic. You can pick same string same force 100 times and get 100 different results. Also there are conditions where the tuner doesn't work at all, as with my guitar hosting a lundgren M7 pickup. Tried changing impedance and stuff, but still doesn't change the problem.

Afer last firmware update 2.01, all my presets using the Twin Harmony pitch are broken. Twin Harmony now it sounds distorted and warbling on every single note. I tried creating same patch from scratch but get the same issue. Already tried to reset, but didnt solve. Twin Harmony seems now broken.

Yes and no. :) The product affected is JUST the L2M speaker. Anything else from L6 has any price change. ;) In fact now L2M cost basically as L2T, which keeps its usual price. I paid my L2m average 600 euros, few months ago. Now it cost more than 900 euros. Does not seems anything related to currency.

Sorry if has been already answered (didn't find anything about), but over here in Europe looks like L2M speaker has now same price as L2T, which is almost 40% more than previous price. Is there any Line 6 official motivation behind that choice?

No rocket science; try both and pick the one less muddy as usually wall proximity its producing unwanted basses and rumble...

Erhmmm I think then I misunderstood. Thought you where using the Helix floor unit to remote control your Helix rack, as if it were a Helix Rack foot controller. This is why I asked. :D Thanks anyway. :)

Can you tell more about how to use Helix floor to control Helix rack?

Gold stuff! Thanks for sharing!

Yeah, lot of bullying I see over here. Pretty annoying. You ask something and you get flooded with sarcasm and whatever idiocy. Indeed get a freaking life....

This is good stuff! Thanks for sharing.

First thing I did. I assigned as per table to Helix MIDI controls and FS. Didn't work. Thanks anyway. :)

It is not really sealed to be waterproof. Also pedal cut out give you complete access to the Helix interiors. Of course it will keep working for small spills...but this is not going to make your PCBs happy on the long term. I would really take care to not spill anything on top of your helix...;)

Wow...this means the 59 I bought this year has been made in 2011!? Interesting. At least looks like hardware is pretty damn good to not rust after being parked for 5 years. :)

Hi guys, Long time L6 user but never posted here. :) I've both Firehawk 1500 and Helix. Very happy user. As the Firehawk has some really nice FX I would like to experiment and use out of my main Helix chains, would be awesome if the Helix could toggle on/off those effects via MIDI. As far as I can tell, MIDI on the 1500 is just working to change patches, but this seems odd to me as there's nothing preventing Helix to send Toggle command to the Firehawk which seems ready to receive MIDI. Also asking myself why adding a full MIDI section just to change up/down patch. Anyone know if we can use Helix, or any other third party MIDI controller, to toggle effects on/off on the FH1500? If the answer is no as it seems, is there anything preventing this to be a future update? Would be really awesome and the cherry on the cake to be the perfect companion for the Helix. Thanks everyone.