lou-kash

Apparently the VPJR is not meant to be an expression pedal in the first place: https://ernieball.com/guitar-accessories/pedals/volume-pedals#P06180 So where do you plug the Y cable in? Input or Output jack? Does that make any difference? On the Helix, have you checked the Global Settings > Preferences > Tip Polarity setting?

Yes you can. E.g. use a stereo Send block at the end of your chain.

Just a week ago I was doing a FOH mix in a small club, using two such (possibly the same?) Yamaha speakers as stage monitors. At first I went from a small Yamaha mixing desk via Aux 1/2 Out jacks with simple TS-to-TS cables, and got the buzz. So I changed to TRS-to-XLR which has fixed it. No idea what kind of Aux Outs there are on that mixer though. So I'd say there's rather something with those Yamaha speakers; that they don't like TS cables… :)

Because: Menu > Controller Assign > Param = IR Sel > Controller = FS# > Next Page > Min Value = 1 & Max Value = 128 Fix: Menu > Controller Assign > Param = IR Sel > Controller = None

And if you don't use a parallel path in your chain, you can have a "blockless" volume pedal in the middle by creating a "fake" parallel path for just the first block(s), route all signal to it and assign the Level parameter of the Mixer "miniblock" to your pedal.

In fact, to save a valuable block slot, you can assign any other block's Level parameter to your expression pedal to serve as a volume pedal instead. Including the Main Output level which is always active.

https://line6.com/data/6/0a020a4010c935bb66a4c0c44f/application/pdf/HX Stomp Manual - English .pdf > pages 41/42

Heel: Toe:

At the same time you can also reverse the Low Gain to slightly boost the lows in heel position.

Use two Lo/Hi Cut blocks to double the effect. Or use the Parametric EQ and also add the High/Mid Gain/Freq parameters to your expression pedal. Sounds spooky indeed! :)

Likely because a signal below 1 kHz doesn't count as "high" anymore. :) A wah-wah?

Just checked with iPhone SE 2016, iOS 13.6.1: it can be loud enough to cause you pain via Stomp's Aux In to headphones… ;) On the iPhone, check the Settings app > Music, if you have possibly limited the headphone output.

Feel free to start one, I'll reply there :) Tomorrow, that is. Now it's time for bed here in Europe.

Have you updated the firmware to v2.92? https://line6.com/software

It emulates the sound character of a given amp. There's no actual amplification of the signal. Technically, the HX Stomp is an equivalent of a D.I. box. It's got ballanced outputs that are switchable between Instrument and Line output signal. You need to plug it into a real amplifier, or an active speaker, or you can plug it directly into a mixing desk.

Earlier this year I actually dug out the Boss SE-50 that I bought used back in 1992 and that was gathering dust for the past 20 years in my studio, and I began to use it again as my "guitar amp modeler" for some band rehearsals, being lazy to carry my Fender Blues Deluxe 1993 to their rehearsal room every week. The SE-50 is limited in many ways when looking at it in 2020, but right now it still worked all right for what I needed to do with it. After I have put in a new buffer battery, that is. Then a buddy told me about Line 6 and their Helix stuff. So I bought an HX Stomp a few weeks ago. It's frickin' amazing. Being also a bassist, I'm now using it for bass guitar as well. I never had such a great bass sound before, no matter where I plug it into. (Nope, I'm not using any of the factory presets, just my own custom stuff ;) If I'll still be using it in 2048, then Line 6 really did a damn good job. Hm. I'd be 81 by then… :D

The nice thing about amp modeling is that it's not "real life". Anything is possible. Even the, er, illegal settings. ;) But yeah: In real life I built myself a passive attenuator for my Fender Blues Deluxe 1993 that I'm plugging in between the Preamp Out and Power Amp In because the clean channel's got no master volume and gets just frickin' loud anywhere above Volume 1.2 …

I can't hear or see anything unnatural in this file except the attack of your pick. If the signal were clipping, the peaks would be "shaved" off: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=audio+clipping&iax=images&ia=images Since it's the dry signal, you're recording the full dynamics of your performance as is. If you want to get rid of these pick "clicks", insert a limiter on this track when mixing, with a very fast attack, say from 0.5 up to 4 ms, whatever sounds best to you: GUITAR DI CLICKS HELIX-limiter.m4a

Why so complicated? Especially on a HX Stomp with its 6 blocks limit. Almost every block has a Volume/Level slider, including the final output. You can make up the Amp volume loss at any stage after the Amp Master, whichever effect/cab/IR block you're using, totally for "free", without giving up a valuable block slot. Just make sure not to overdrive the device output with digital distortion. As previously noted, it's all about balance of several amp stages before the Master. If the Gain/Drive is relatively low and the Tone controls aren't fully cranked up either, you'll be still on the "clean" side with the Master set around 4 or 5.

My neighbor bought a new Stomp about a week or two ago (after I've showcased him mine!) and attempted to update the original 2.65 firmware to 2.92. Then he bricked it. Then he came to me today. Then I recalled reading this thread just this morning. The fix worked like a charm. :) For the record: I've updated his Stomp using the most recent Line 6 Updater and the offline firmware because my MacOS El Capitan cannot connect to the online updater via HX Edit anymore, see also:

Ah, this one is it: https://www.rockboard.de/en/power-supply/rockboard-power-ace-9v-dc-17a-power-adapter-rbo-power-ace

Generally I intend to use the Stomp alone, just with an old passive footswitch and an old Roland EV-5 expression pedal. But out of curiosity I pulled out a cheap small 9V 1.7A power supply that I bought a couple of years ago. (I don't remember the brand right now, it's in my studio.) Because as I've seen in a BoohTube video recently, someone did measure the amperage actually drawn by the Stomp, and it's constantly somewhere under 1.3A, no matter what you do with it. So there was even some headroom to plug in a few of my beaten Boss pedals from the 1980s as well. It worked. On the other hand, the original Stomp power supply actually provides a whopping 3A. So all you need is a power distribution cable and two connector adapters to convert 1) from the Stomp power supply cable, and 2) from the distribution cable to the Stomp device, and you're all set. It works. I've tested it with attaching a Tech 21 DI box plus all of my old pedals I could find in my archives… :)

Exactly. What's slightly confusing here, however, at least for a Helix Universe novice like me, is that the "Channel Volume" usually appears before "Master" in the parameter chain. It should be the other way around, following this signal path logic. Anyway, we're getting slightly off topic here. :)

You're welcome. Also make sure to check out the Stomp manual: https://line6.com/support/manuals/hxstomp e.g. page 8 and 28. Additional details are in the HX Edit Pilot's Guide.pdf – on the Mac it's accessible directly from the HX Edit's Help menu. Experimenting with the factory presets is also revealing, whether one likes the exact sound or not, or whether it's a guitar, bass or keyboard preset.

It's somewhat new to me as well, at least in this form. But occasionally I do audio editing for a living, like mastering, sometimes "budget" recording, live mixing, etc., mostly working in Logic. So I'm familiar with general audio path concepts. Nonetheless, I'm now spending several hours a day to explore the possibilities and boundaries of the Stomp. Flexibility = complexity – that's for sure. Luckily, being self-employed, I can take the time I need at the moment. :) Exactly. It's all set up already. Everything after the Send block now goes to the Main Out jack only, but not to the Send jack. Not necessarily because delays and reverbs usually have a dry/wet "Mix" slider built in: 0% = dry signal, 50% = dry & wet equally mixed, 100% = wet signal only. So you'll just set the desired proportions – probably somewhere between like 20–40% – and leave it as is.