radatats

Here are my suggestions. There are two ways of doing this. 1. Guitar -> HD500 in - HD500 1/4 out -> THR10X in. This puts your POD in front of the THR. Do not use any amp model in the POD, just the effects you want to use. The only problem here is some effects are best after the amp (THR) like delays, reverbs, chorus, etc. and you can't do it this way. Still it should work just fine with sound coming from the THR speakers. 2. Guitar -> HD500 in - HD500 FX Loop send -> THR10X in - THR Headphones out -> HD500 FX Loop return - HD500 1/4 or XLR outs -> powered speakers/amp. This puts the THR in the FX Loop of the POD. Now you can use the compressors, distortions, etc in front of the amp and the delays, reverbs etc after the amp. I don't know it the THR speakers are disabled with headphones plugged in, I would hope so. Use the mono FX send to the THR and use an insert cable to go from the stereo headphone plug to two 1/4 mono plugs for the FX return. Again, no POD amp model selected with this setup. Insert cable example

You can still do that with a L2 or an L3 but with the added advantage of knowing that exactly what you are hearing is what is going to the FOH without having to be miked up...

Using Full Range Flat Response speakers like the Line 6 L series or active PA monitors or just going direct to the PA. The HD500 has both full and pre amp models. The full amp models have a modeled power section so you can skip the real amp and go straight to the board. The DT amp gives you the tube power section to match up with the pre amp models. Certainly it sounds great but so do the full amp models in a good PA. The DT is not stereo, weighs a fair bit and still has all the maintenance drawbacks of any tube amp. FRFR is a lot easier to manage and allows the full stereo if you want to use it including dual amp patches. Here is a link to my other thread discussing options and trying to narrow down my choices.

Well you can't get it exactly... The 500X does have the Fender Deluxe Reverb in both normal and bright models though and you will have to tweak it to match. Another option for consideration is the Firehawk FX which has all the HD amps from the 500 and all the amps from the X3 as well. It has the exact Line 6 Bayou amp model in that unit. It has fewer I/O options and no direct L6 support for the DT amps though. It does fully interact with the Variax. Still, for what its worth, I am letting my DT go and moving all in on the full FRFR route. Definitely worth thinking about before you jump on the DT... Full list of Firehawk amp models

no, I just mean the resonance effect, thump and decay are all off with RES LEVEL zero.

at least fishermen can find a use for old guitar strings as leaders or fish keepers... :D

nope, I believe credit goes to Hurghanico for this discovery. Unfortunately I think that thread is gone... but yes, that is what he described, an exciter type effect applied to the cab model as resonance with the default being ON. If you want the dry cab turn the RES LEVEL to zero. THUMP and DECAY are also proportional to RES LEVEL.

The Wire The Bridge The Americans Homeland Vikings Boardwalk Empire binge and purge baby...

House of Cards... just saying... any politician with the initials F.U. is on the money... :D

I believe you are referring to the cab resonance feature that some have likened to a sonic maximizer/exciter type effect. There is no other effect of that type in the POD and I doubt they will be disabling that for the global EQ...

OK then, lets keep it all in one thread... I too have decided to go the full FRFR route. I am most likely going to sell my DT25 and cabs, my other amps and my current power amp and passive Peavey PA cabs in favor of a new, light weight, PA system capable of meeting all my needs. Unlike most of what I am seeing here so far, I am really not in the market for the L series speakers. I understand the L6 link features but I am not playing in a band these days and probably not in the future either at this point. I don't need the extra L series features like electric, acoustic when playing backing tracks. I want a system for my studio and that I can take to solo gigs in small to medium venues and some outside gigs. I play with backing tracks, programmed drums and synths, more of a heavy prog type music, not acoustic with vocals. So that means I need a full PA with enough bass and headroom to carry the drums and synths as well as my guitars. I have looked at a ton of different systems and combinations of gear and put together an bunch of wish lists to compare. My budget is under $1500 max, preferably less. I have no desire to over buy or own gear I don't really need. I would really appreciate your input here regards any of these ideas. I really need to know if some of the smaller systems could reasonably be expected to handle the load or if I should stick to the ones with a sub. $768 - KXD12 $890 - TS iX12 $986 - EON610 $987 - DBR10 $1050 - B112D + Sub $1087 - EON612 $1188 - DBR12 $1270 - TS iP1000 $1287 - DBR10 + Sub $1290 - TS iX12 + Sub $1757 - L2 Series I know some guys don't like Behringer because of reputation but sometimes that comes across the same as those that don't like Line 6 just because. Please give reasons if something should be off the list. Can the 10" cabs really do the job?

Ha! I didn't even see your response and I had second thoughts about hijacking your thread so I started a new one instead... sorry for the confusion! :wacko: :D http://line6.com/support/topic/12718-full-pa-recommendations/

The actual switch soldered to the board is not your problem. What happens is the spring gets compressed over time and doesn't exert enough force on the switch. Just take the spring and stretch it out a bit, not too much, and I bet it works just fine. I used to have to do this on my longboard. You can replace the spring if you want but the rest of the physical switch probably is just fine. Give it a shot, it's free... Check my previous posts on this... http://line6.com/support/topic/4487-footswitch-replacement-for-the-500/?do=findComment&comment=29367

outstanding Peter! thanks for showing how to really use the EQ to dial in a tone. I totally agree on the low cut too, use it all the time. Now I have to revisit some of my tones to apply what you just showed me! Looking forward to the rest of the series... PS - I have tended to think of and use EQ as another tone stack, to shape the tone like with a hifi. I knew about the techniques you showed, read about that somewhere or saw it in a video on recording but hadn't really seen it applied to the POD like that. I can see where EQ is now also a tone CORRECTION tool. I just tried building the Treadplate patch you showed and I never would have found that annoying frequency without what you showed. The final tone is not so much DIFFERENT with the EQ as it is BETTER with the EQ... Still so much to learn... :)

Yep, done all that. Still, I want the trem to be able to swing out of the way so I have to leave it a little loose and that is the issue. It is not snug in the hole. When I grab it, there is a slight clink as it contacts the sides of the shaft and that transmits clearly through the piezos... I am going to try the teflon tape to see if that snugs it in the shaft hole and gets rid of that noise.

What don't kill, fattens!! :D

I tried cooking up some new DEP Parms last night but they came out too cheesy... guess I bit off more than I could chew. Think I will stick with Chicken Parms...

no luck bro. mine isn't missing either piece but I still hate the design, it is just loose in the shaft and when I use it, I hear a click as it wobbles. If you are totally missing the plastic sleeve and can't get any help from Line 6 support, you might try using some heat shrink on the trem bar until it fits snugly. Get it at any electrical supply house. You will need to use a couple of layers to get the thickness right. You might also try some plumber's teflon tape as well. Actually I just thought of that and will try it myself this week... The set screw will be harder to match up but maybe a machine shop supply house?

no worries bro, glad to help. Right, everyone had good info to add. Yep, turn the amp to zero at first and gradually bring it up to volume watching for the limiters. According to the manual, its OK for them to occasionally light up, the yellow at least, but I would be careful with that and definitely no red. A second cab would be great but that's another 65 lbs to drag around...

another thing to consider is this is a Marshall cab but not a 1960, these Celestions are not V30's. They are less powerful and have smaller magnets. For the price you could add a second cab in stereo and rock the world... still, follow the advice you've been given and you should be good to go.

yeah, I think you should be ok. just watch those limiter lights, stay out of the red and avoid the yellow if you can... I just type what I want, highlight it, click the link icon and paste the hyperlink in the blank...

Real good reading... How Much Amplifier Power Do I Need? Speaker selection and amplifier power ratings

Lots of good scoop for you there from Palico. What iNuke model are you using and what is your cab? Speakers? The Behringers generally overstate their true wattage by listing peak instead of RMS but the smallest one on their site lists at 2X300 into 4 ohms and you are stating 120 so I am guessing you have 8 ohm cab? not quite sure... pretty certain that is not 120 watts RMS from that amp. Generally speaking, solid state power amps are pretty clean right up until clipping. You should have some indicators on the front that will tell you when you are overdriving or approaching it with that amp. You will always get the most damaging power issues when you overdrive a SS amp into clipping. That type of signal to your speaker causes a lot of heat and that is what hurts the speaker. If you are not getting any limiters lighting up, turn up the power amp, its OK. Turning up the channel volumes and mixer levels can take the input signal too hot and introduce spikes even with the amp not turned up. Watch out for the limiters coming on. Is it a mono cab or are you running it in stereo? If its stereo, don't bridge it! If its mono, you should be OK bridging that amp with your cab. Like I said, the RMS watts aren't what Behringer advertises. The iNuke1000 says 1000 into 4ohms bridged so that is maybe 500 peak into 8ohms. Keep your Pod settings the way you have them now and you should get more clean volume and headroom that way without having to crank it. Be careful with it though, especially if you have a lot of spike volumes when you play. Just remember, no matter what you do you can't get 4X12 volume from a 1X12 cab...

I think the Polywebs are actually better than the Nanowebs for the JTV and the piezos...

nice work!