phil_m

No, there is no way to do this. Think about it like this - you have a mono effect in a mono effects loops. Even if there was a way to use the same block in multiple paths, it would mess your signal routing up because you'd be summing the input from both paths and the signal going back into the Helix's effect return would be a blended signal of the magnetic pickups and modeling.

It sounds like you're in Snapshot Mode. Hit the Bank Up and Down buttons together (hit them quickly and release, don't hold them down). That will take you back to Preset Mode, which is the mode you need to be in to see the 4 Stomp/Snapshot view.

I didn't notice it earlier, but you actually probably want to have the effects loop you're using set to instrument level, not line. Most stompboxes are designed to work with instrument level signals.

Do you have the single FX Loop block in the Helix or separate Send and Return blocks? If you're using the separate Send block, there's a Dry Thru parameter that's set to 0.0dB by default. That would mess things up.

Push the pedal to the toe down position and turning off the wah block. Navigate over the wah block by turning the top knob, and then press down the knob. That will toggle its bypass state to on. Now move the pedal back to the heel down and the block should turn off. Then re-save your preset.

You can already do that. You can assign whatever CC you want as a bypass controller. It's on page 48 of the manual: You can actually have a CC assigned as a bypass controller along with one of the on-board options. The one thing with that, though, is a value of 0 will be off and 127 will be on. So that won't really work with a MIDI expression pedal like you're talking about. What you can do is use the CC associated with EXP1 or EXP2 (CC#1 and CC#2, respectively) and have your expression pedal mimic one of those. So when you do that, the auto-engage feature will work just like it would if you have the expression pedal directly plugged into the Stomp. So just change the CC assignment on the MIDI Mongoose (I'm assuming this is what you actually have, not the MIDI Moose, as the MIDI Moose doesn't have an expression input) to CC#1, and that will let you control EXP1.

The knobs underneath the Helix's screen.

There's no MIDI CCs associated with the Variax knobs, so there's no "virtual Variax knobs" in the same way that they are virtual EXPs. But it doesn't matter. You can control whatever parameters you want directly with whatever MIDI CC you want. In the Controller Assign screen, you just select MIDI CC with Knob 2 and select whatever MIDI CC you want to use with Knob 3.

The Stomp draws around 1.0mA +/-. The DC-3g power adapter that comes with the Stomp is rated at 3A, but that's just its capacity. So the CS6 will power the Stomp, but it depends on what else you have connected to it.

Yeah, you can't go wrong with G, Em, D & C. :-)

You can certainly select a different audio interface in Reaper and still use HX Edit to edit the Stomp. I actually think you can choose a different interface to be your Windows interface and still use HX Edit, too. I do this quite often, really. I have a separate mixer that I use as my main recording interface, and I plug in my Stomp or Helix and use HX Edit without them being my audio interface all the time. If I want to record via USB from the Helix, I just select that as the interface in Reaper, and do that. I always have the Helix's XLR outs plugged into a pair of channels on my mixer, though, so I'm always hearing the audio from the Helix through my mixer (my studio monitors are connected to my mixer - well, actually, I have a separate monitor matrix mixer thing that lets me select between different monitor pairs, you get the gist...).

I'm confused as to what you're asking. Are you asking if you can control the Variax knobs via MIDI, or are you asking if you can send MIDI messages with the knobs? You can actually do both, but I'm most confused by your last statement. Are you saying you don't own a Variax and you never will? In that case, neither question makes much sense...

I think there is an issue with the Line 6 servers right now. I imagine it should get cleared up shortly.

I think there must be something going on with the Line 6 servers this weekend. I've seen reports of CustomTone not working, too. I imagine they'll get it back up and running when they get back in the office on Monday.

To use the Zuma's 9V outs with the HX Effects, you just need a way to get from a 2.1mm x 5.5mm barrel to a 2.5mm x 5.5mm barrel plug. There are a few adapters that do that, but they're oddly expensive. I found it was cheaper to combine a few Voodoo Lab cables and adapters to get there. I use the following: (1) current double adapter (1) 2.1mm to 2.1mm reverse polarity cable (1) 2.1mm to 2.5mm adapter (marketed as an L6 Adapter - this reverses the polarity, so that's why you need the reverse polarity cable as well).

Hit the Mode footswitch. You’re most likely in Stomp Mode with no stomp assignment Madrid.

Nope... Doesn’t work that way. If you know what amp and cab the Kemper profile was made with, you can probably find something close or perhaps even the same amp and create a Helix preset with it. But Kemper profiles, like all the devices in the modeling world, are proprietary.

Hmmm... I’m not sure what you were seeing before, but it has never worked that way.

Makes no difference... That only affects whether changes are saved in snapshots while you’re in the preset. It doesn’t save the preset automatically.

Not exactly sure what you mean by that, but the snapshot you have loaded in the preset you're currently in will have no affect on the snapshot that's active when you load the next preset. The only thing that matters is what snapshot is active when the preset is saved.

When you load the preset, the active snapshot will be the snapshot that was active when you saved the preset.

The AMPLIFi 75 should work with Android. Is the app not working on your device?

It works fine. I do it quite often, actually. One thing to be aware of is that any stereo effects you put in this position will have their stereo field collapsed to mono.

I'm not so sure what Line 6 did to you that you're assuming the worst intentions on their part, but I can assure you that no one I've met from Line 6 is like that, starting from the top down. Most likely the link above got removed during a website redesign - this thread is originally from 2013, after all. The Monoprice cable I recommended above is a recommendation I'm passing on from Eric Klein, the Chief Product Architect for Line 6 (Digital Igloo here). They aren't trying to rip anyone off. I imagine it's just they don't sell a lot of these cables, so it's just a lot more expensive for them to buy and keep them in stock than a retailer who sells hundreds of cables a day. As far as the L6 Link connection, a standard mic cable will work in most cases. For longer runs and for runs with multiple devices daisy-chained together, an AES/EBU is better. It could just be that Line 6 found they were getting complaints with people using other cables and decided to change their recommendation - it happens. You're assuming the worst as far as their motives go and it's uncalled for.

Calm down, man... The L6 Link cable is just an AES/EBU cable, and there's nothing proprietary about it. Those are available from a lot of different sellers. You can get a 20ft one from Monoprice.com for less than $10. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=601606