datacommando

Keep leaning in that direction and you will fall over! Guess when you mention "the DD-4", what you real meant was the Line 6 DL4, iconic delay modeller. You must have missed it's re-launch back in March 2022 as the new DL4 MkII unit. Here's the updated version. Oh, and here is a five star review. https://www.guitarworld.com/reviews/line-6-dl4-mkii-delay-modeler-review Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, The splendid young Mr. Cordy, over on YouTube, has this take on recreating a Strymon Volante on his HX Stomp. Not exactly D. Dale, but very atmospheric stuff. - NOTE: - The built in censor for bad language on this forum would not allow me to use Mr. Richard Dale’s regular name. D!ck. It swaps it to “lollipop”. Check out these Strymon Delay/Reverb style tones. Hope this helps/makes sense

Hi, When you say "frequencies for guitar", I think what you are actually referring to is the audio "Sample Rate", which is used for recording, this should have no real affect on the audio output from a P.A. system in a Live environment. The Helix family of products can use any of the four most common sample rates in general use, 44.1kHz, 48kHz, 88.21kHz and 96kHz. The default setting on Helix is 48kHz. These options are used in conduction with your DAWs settings to match sample rates between the two. To save me lots of typing to explain this, it might be worth watching this video for a little more insight. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Ah, now it makes more sense. IIRC, the speed of the scrolling was supposed to have been improved because there had been many complaints about this particular function of the scroll knobs being so "hit and miss". O.K. I just checked, and in the Release Notes from v.3.0 Firmware update, under "Other Changes and Improvements", it states: "Parameter knob ballistics have been improved". Maybe the scroll function in the BPM section was overlooked. By far the easiest way to get close to the BPM you need is to use the "TAP Tempo" footswitch (bit of a clue in the name) and adjust from there. I just did that with my Helix floor and managed to switch from 120 to 61.2 BPM in three presses of the Tap switch. Easy really, or maybe I'm really good at timing. If you feel that the BPM "dialling in" velocity needs further improvement, I suggest that you post your request to IdeaScale, as it is the only place it is likely to be noticed. Line 6 staff do not monitor these forums, and very rarely do they visit, so you need to sign up to IdeaScale which you can find here: https://line6.ideascale.com/c/home Once you've signed up and are in there, find the Helix/HX section from the menu at the top of the page, then you can post your ideas among the other 5,500 plus requests, but it is the only place where it might get picked up. Please Note: before submitting your ideas, search through all the other requests to ensure you are not duplicating ones that may already be in there. If you don't check, then you will only succeed in watering down the votes the item may already have accumulated. Once you have added to the IdeaScale site, you can post here, to the "sticky" thread at the top of the main forum page to let other users know and to encourage them to upvote your idea. Link below: Hope this helps/makes sense.

Don’t Panic - It is very rare that a glitch in the firmware will actually turn your device into an paperweight. I keep saying that I will stop doing this, but here we go again. Once more from the top! You mentioned that you were updating your HX to the latest v3.15 firmware, from version 2.30. I mention this is because, IIRC, the “Boot Failure” is actually part of the 2.8 update process, when the main system Core was modified. Apparently this happens when updating from firmware versions prior to the Core change, which is what yours was. This is highlighted in the release notes. My Helix/HX is at version X.XX. Can I go straight to 3.15? Yes, but note that if you're starting from 2.80 or lower, the update will appear to happen twice. This is normal. Firstly go to the "DOWNLOADS" menu at the top of this page and from "-Choose Hardware -" select Helix. Leave the "-Choose Software-" menu item as it is, now select your Windows/Mac OSX from under the "-Choose OS-" tab, then click “Go”. From the next page you can select HX Edit 3.15 for your Helix. You will also need the Firmware 3.15 Flash Memory, and the Line 6 Updater version 1.25 - you will need this too. Download all these items to your computer and note where they are. Then: Remove all previous Line 6 software from your computer especially the Windows drivers and then restart your computer. Make sure to turn off the power to your Helix. Unplug the USB cable from the computer and the Helix hardware. Power up the Helix while holding down “FS6 & 12”. Will put the unit in a Safe Boot update mode. Use this when the Helix is in an un-recoverable state. Doing this will probably give you a completely blank screen, you should be able to re-install the firmware again. Leave the Helix powered up. Now you can install the latest HX Edit v. 3.15 (with all the drivers) Reconnect the USB cable to the Helix and your computer - Do not use a Hub. (Some USB ports on the front of a PC can act as a hub, so use one on the back). Ensure that HX Edit is closed and also shutdown any other background tasks, screen savers etc., also disconnect from any internet services. You don’t want anything to interfere with this installation routine. Now, find and launch the Line 6 Updater Utility and select "Offline Mode". Your Helix and current firmware version should now show up in the window, click on the dark green coloured band and you should now have the option to select a local file - point it at the Flash Memory 3.15 file you downloaded and let it get on with the update. When it completes you will need to perform a Factory Reset on your Helix (hold down FS9 & 10 while turning the power on) and then you can launch the new HX Edit v.3.15 software and you should be good to go. No guarantee is given or implied - you do this at your own risk. If this fails, contact Line 6 Customer Support and raise a ticket. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, I’m not quite sure what you’re asking with this question? - The unit default is 120.0 BPM, and you can modify this by using the “Tap Tempo” button, or scrolling through using the scroll knob. If you mean that you think the BPM divisions should also display 100th and 1000th in the read out, then I’m even more confused? I don’t think that even Frank Zappa ever wrote music that required the accuracy of a thousandth of a beat. HX Stomp 3.0 Owner’s Manual - Rev D - English - page 19 has the information about Tap Tempo, and using either note divisions, milliseconds and Hz for delay and modulation fx. Hope this helps/makes sense. EDIT: Here’s a handy tool for calculating time - this only works in whole numbers of BPM https://tuneform.com/tools/time-tempo-bpm-to-milliseconds-ms

Really? What would be the point of installing drivers without the hardware? You do realise that to cannot use the Editor software without the hardware being physically connected. I have replied to your other equally odd post. After reading this - I think can smell a Troll in here.

Uh? Why not? From the Helix 3.0 Helix Owner’s Manual- Rev F - English - Page 9 - Back Panel SENDS/RETURNS 1-4 These 1/4" ins and outs can be used as FX loops for inserting external stompboxes into your tone or as additional inputs and outputs for connecting keyboards, drum machines, mixers, and other gear. See "Send/Return" These connections have been available since day one - they are part of the hardware. Hope this helps/makes sense. (Ye gods - I despair)

Greetings necromancer. Your first post is a complaint? Really? Did you not research what you were buying? Yes, it is an old conversation, and if you actually read through the thread you will see that many have argued that “the maximum loop time is not an important issue”. See the post from “soundog” who explains that the Helix looper was never intended as a performance looper. Also “cruisinon2” and others have said, “There will never be a single device that satisfies every possible want or need”. Furthermore, I commented way back in 2018 - “a stereo Ditto looper in the FX loop should do an great job of doing just what you need. You can have your full backing track in there. If the Ditto is good enough for guys like Steve Wilson and Guthrie Govan you can’t go wrong. Plus you won’t need a truck if you ever want to transport that device and a couple of extra cables. Your issue apparently is - “Instead at the moment I am forced to wire another additional pedal, which is what I would NOT want to do, having a machine like Helix available.” Oh dear, so sad, what a shame. Maybe you should have checked the tech spec first. I guess that is why those nice people at Line 6 provided all those Send/Return sockets on the hardware, so you can extend the functionality by adding a whole bunch of other Looper, Delays and Reverbs that the Helix doesn’t have on board. Seem to work for most users. Caveat Emptor! Hope this helps/makes sense.

I would say there's a bit of a clue there. What changed? Is your driver updated to ver 4.2.7.7 https://line6.com/software/index.html BTW this is a Helix thread - you can find POD HD stuff here: https://line6.com/support/forum/18-pod-hd/ Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, As noted by “rd2rk” in the post above, you could give your Logitech a spin with the Helix Rack and see what you think. My comment about this (after doing a quick read of some of the specs) is, the system states a “frequency response of 33Hz to 25kHz overall with the help of the subwoofer”, but I haven’t seen a chart of how flat the response is between those two points. It apparently also uses “real-time digital sound equalization that takes each speaker and improves the overall quality of sound generated from every component.” My guess that is going to enhance the audio in a way that Hi Fi speakers add a bit of polish to what you’re listening to. OTOH, Studio monitors are usually designed to give a reasonably flat response across the 20Hz - 20kHz frequency range, thus avoiding any colouration to the sound. Anyhow, this is the sort of thing that only you can decide. If what you have works for you - fine, and if you decide later to invest in a pair of Yamaha HS7, that’s also fine. Meantime “mothball” the Marshall as an investment. ”rd2rk”, seems to have covered all the other points. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, If this is the “real extent” of what you would be doing, then ditch the Marshall and get some powered studio monitors. Hook them up to your Helix Rack using the XLR out on the back. Now patch your computer to your Rack using a USB cable, then you can playback you mp3 files, YouTube or whatever to jam along to hassle free. This will allow you to use all the amp models in the Helix without compromise. If you have ever listened to a fully produced guitar track on playback in a studio control room, then this will be as close as it gets to that. You don’t need to sell a kidney - there are some very decent offerings in the budget end of the monitor market, but it comes down to buying the best you can afford. I started out on 5” near-field bi-amped monitors that were “good enough”, but moved on to 8 inch monitors better suited to my space. Read the reviews of any that you think might be good for you - it’s your decision, but the Marshall is definitely not the route to go if you want your investment in Helix to sound right in a home environment. You will require a system that can produce clarity and definition across a range of volumes without distortion or colouration. You would be surprised what some people are using without breaking the bank. Hope this helps;makes sense.

I’m with you on this - although my ears are a couple of years younger, I just don’t get it.

Erm… well, I don’t for precisely the reasons you have given in your post. Although I did like your reference to sledgehammers. Is that like using a sledgehammer to crack a walnut? ;-)

Hi, Glad to know that it has helped you to have a better understanding of the Helix, and how you can put things together. The real beauty of this technology is that unlike the "real world" there is very little chance of blowing anything up by plugging something into the wrong block. There are no rules, if something sounds good to you, and you enjoy what you are doing - that's great. I hope you're making progress on your music room in your new property, and then you can enjoy your retirement. I retired quite some time back, which gives me all the time I need to play around with all my "boys toys" down here in my studio, which is actually a log cabin at the bottom of the garden, about 100 yards from the house. Luckily for me, (I don't function too well in heat), we have returned to the usual grey and damp weather over here - the standard British summer is two warm days and a thunderstorm. Have fun with the building project and enjoy experimenting with your Helix. Regards

Hmm… it seems a little sceptical to me, but maybe it’s simply that you bought a pre-owned lemon. The majority of Helix users are very happy bunnies. I have been using my Helix on an almost daily basis since the end of 2015, and way back I did have a joystick fail with a dry soldered joint. It was a swift repair through the authorised service centre and soon back in action. That is probably the closest thing to a disaster I’ve encountered with this thing, and while it was in for repair I brought out the backup audio interface and HX Native - never missed a beat. Most of the time I cannot fault it - It does everything that I want it to do, obviously your experience is different. O.K., a dead Mic input on a pre-owned unit, that is one of those situations where the term “Caveat emptor” springs to mind. A bad conjunction of the stars have obviously conspired against you to create a global shortage of chips in world slowly recovering from a pandemic. Who would have though that such a thing was possible. ;-) Spending 3 hours creating presets and then losing them without having a “fail safe” back up copy is a best described as a disaster waiting to happen - the Helix is essentially a computer, and computers fail. It’s not a question of “if it fails”, it’s more a question of “when”. It’s a bit like flying solo without a parachute, you get struck by lightening - what you going to do? Bail out to safety, or crash and burn? Ahh… the mysterious world of USB voodoo. Many people suffer from this, and lots more don’t. So far, I guess you could say I’m very lucky - I must live on a ley line, or be making all the right offerings to the gods, who inhabit the realm of USB cables, and are keeping the demons away from my stuff. If you think a mini PC and Helix Native is the solution, then give it a go. You will never know until you try, but it could also be a lot worse. That’s just the way the world is. :-)

Hi, Wow, the second comment in one week re: sysex and Helix. Here’s my cut ‘n’ paste response from another post: “Helix family of products has never been able to respond to System Exclusive messages. See the reply from Digital Igloo (Eric Klein, Chief Product Design Architect at Yamaha Guitar Group, Inc. / Line 6 / Ampeg) in this thread from 2017 - “ Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, Save a lot of hassle and download the preset in this thread (link below) - it’s named “Boss RC 30.hlx. Once you have it in your Helix or HX Edit, add the Glitch Delay block on path 2B, behind the Send/Return block named “Boss RC 30” then immediately delete the S/R block. Next add a Ratchet block to replace the block you just deleted. Now you can change any/all the other blocks in the signal chain to suit what you want to do, and the guitar signal will be passed to the Ratchet-Glitch path 2B and through to the output while path 2A continues out un-glitched. Use this .hlx as a template to create as many variations as you like simply by moving things around. Hope this helps/makes sense. link:

Hi, Here ya go! Boss RC30.hlx As promised - a very quick and dirty preset to use with a stereo external looper eg:Boss RC-30. Download the "Boss RC30.hlx" file to your computer and drop it into an empty New Preset slot in HX Edit and send it to the Helix. Next hook up your RC-30 looper to the Helix, using four cables via the SEND/Return 1 and 2 jack sockets. Sends goes to the Looper L/R in, and L/R out goes to Helix Returns. Now plug in your guitar to the Helix and go loopy. Yay craziness! Make sure you have a safety copy of my original preset then you are free to change any, or all of the effects, amp and speakers and move them around to suit your own settings. this is just a bare bones template. You mention having 2 powered speakers, therefore you may want to play around with the final outputs. At the moment thet are both set to Multi Out > Pan > Center. This is because I was running this out of my studio monitors on the XLR outs. I did try panning each output at 50% L/R and also 75% L/R and returned them to Center so you can play around with it as much as you like. Hope this helps/makes sense. P.S. I got a late start on this today, as my wife's MacBook decided to die this morning. It tried to start up, but would then shutdown about two thirds of the way in. That left me spending 3 to 4 hours running tests, zapping the NVRAM and SMC, all to no avail. Eventually, figured the disk was failing to mount properly, so then I had to reformat the thing and re-install the system over the Internet. I think the the record high temperature here in the U.K. yesterday screwed the thing up on shutdown. She has a new MacBook Air on back order - expect delivery end of Aug or start of Sept. C'est la vie. What fun we have. :-)

No, you are not pest - it’s a quest for knowledge, and it’s free. Use it wisely “Grasshopper”. If you don’t know about something - ask, it’s not a secret. Your Helix is capable of so many things that you possibly haven’t even considered yet. Stand by for the example preset tomorrow.

Sure, in order to use your external RC30 unit you need to cable it up to your Helix using the Send/Return jacks on the rear panel. Next select the preset you wish to use with your looper. Add a stereo FX Loop block near the end signal chain and assign ot to a footswitch and turn it on, if it is bypassed no signal is sent to the RC 30. This block sends your processed guitar signal out to the Boss box were you record the loop and it comes back into your Helix and then along the rest of the signal chain to the final output to your speakers. Essentially from your original description of what you wanted, I suggested that when you insert the Loop block, you should drag it down to split the path, thus allowing your guitar signal to travel to the final stereo output, while the split path feeds you guitar audio into the Boss and back in to continue to the output. It probably sounds more complicated than it actually is. It’s early evening here and I’m not in the studio until tomorrow pm, but I will put together a preset you can experiment with, and upload it here. Hope this helps/makes sense. Lots of people don’t like this type of comment, but the Helix 3.0 Owner’s Manual is chock full of useful info about creating custom scribble strips and saving favourites etc., plus it’s free - find it here. https://line6.com/data/6/0a020a3f041b611d61cac763b/application/pdf/Helix 3.0 Owner's Manual - Rev F - English .pdf

Hi, Well, when I first got my Helix, I used to patch my old POD HD500 into the FX Loop simply to be able to use Dimensions. Some of the phaser and flangers are fun too, but the Dimensions effect is still my particular favourite. I would love to see that updated to the new Helix version.

The one that I definitely know about is “boynigel”, who solved similar issues in the thread (link below) - but I believe you already posted in that thread. You could try quoting one of his posts to see if he replies, but AFAIK he hasn’t checked in here since he fixed his copy of Native. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, There have been reports of this happening on a couple of earlier occasions, and the usual answer has been to contact Customer Support, as suggested by “silverhead” in the post above. see link: Sadly, nobody has ever posted a message to say how this was fixed. Actually it seem to be a hardware issue according to the reply from “GabCS” in this thread. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, I’m Mac based and therefore unable to check how Cakewalk functions - I know there is a Mac prototype, but it doesn’t run on my OS. I have several other DAWs on the Mac simply for trouble shooting these sort of issues. As previously mentioned, many users seem to think the DI level on USB 7/8 is low. The Input Pad options do have an affect on the overall sound of your guitar, it’s usually a question of which option works best for you in any given situation. I imagine this DI “hot signal” is happening on all your presets, even the pre-installed factory ones? If it is only on your own presets it would help if you could attach the .hlx example file to check out. It might also be advisable to also check the pickup height on your guitar, although you didn’t mention if it’s clipping the input, just the dry DI Output. Is it possible for you to try another guitar (maybe from a friend) using the same presets. It’s all a process of elimination. EDIT: To continue with the process of elimination, humour me and download a free copy of Reaper and see if you get the same results on USB 7. link: https://www.reaper.fm/download.php Hope this helps/makes sense.