BillBee

Well bah (to an extent) on new stuff my old Flexy II can still dish out some tone. As a plus I've used the FX loop to plug an HD directly in to use its power amp (100 w Plus with the extension cab btw).

Oh L6 is on this forum and pops up once in a while, but they don't monitor it very actively per se.

You probably have to email L6 to have them tell you. I know the JTV Variax had its # deciphered but it doesn't seem to apply across the board. The MK I came out in 2007 so if its a MKII you know its later than that.

Nope - don't use it.

Well it does have an FX Return and that would be where I would try it. On normal amps its where I go.

Move over Bruce - let me climb on that limb too. This idea popped up before regarding Gearbox which hasn't happened yet either.

There are only 13,000 + tones to look through, what is the problem? :D Seriously, if you can't find it using the search function the chances of the tone being there when one of us does the same thing is zero. But consider that a lot of the tones will be off for your rig, so you take some time and dial one in yourself. If you must use CT try to find a tone that is close a tweak it for your needs. -B

Oh it only works in/in & out/out for the Pod 2, Floorpod +, Vetta, Flex 2 & 3, Duoverb..... Zoom G9 but with somethings it does go in/out out/in (Ha! the ole in out!) Go figure. On multiple pc's too. That's why I say if at first there is no communication swap them and see. I was losing my mind when I first got the Uno years ago (my Win98 machine died and with it went the SB card I used with the Hosa adaptor) until I swapped the leads and **poof** the sucker worked. But yes, in general midi for me has always been out/in.

Good stuff here, the days of plugging in the Hosa midi cable to the Sound blaster port are long gone. The Uno can flip flop its port plugging mine goes in/in out/out for L6 stuff and the normal route for a few others.

IMO its the M-Audio Uno driver setup - for XPsp3 - for me connecting it to L6 Edit with the Vetta disconnected the manual setup was in: 1x1 Uno (may have been auto) the out defaulted to (MS GS wave....) which I selected 1x1 Uno. Don't give up but step away for a bit as it is frustrating (I had to do a funky flash sequence on an old Johnson J-Station ~ 15-20 times before it took). I wanted to run over it with the truck. With the Vetta disconnected: Uninstall all the M-Audio Drivers and then plug it in, pick a different USB port, listen for the duh duh of the USB driver loading (who knows might as well let the generic driver give it a shot). Connect the Vetta: then start L6 Edit and see what comes up detected port wise. Then try it with L6 Monkey 1.19 and select "flash from File". Hopefully, the dialog will take you through it. I had to go in/in and out/out for my Uno to work properly. Maybe the new drivers reversed it. But people have recovered their Vetta from this. Some had to use a different PC as they had driver issues. Hope you get it working my man. -B Edit: https://www.facebook.com/groups/ look for Vetta II they have approve you btw. Had to snip the addy as being a new guy there IDK the rules for linking to them. Sorry about that. Great resource to check out. I will be doing the band thing over the next few, starting tonight so I'll check back in when I can.

Couldn't tell you I only have the Uno. The cheap ebay specials will send short midi messages and they look like they will work but with firmware they can fail.

You cannot DL with Monkey as the firmware was removed to keep people from trying to reflash the Vetta without properly testing the midi connection. IF the midi connection was not working with Edit a brick is usually made. The Midi-ox route is your best bet. But the VTF file should work. Be sure to use the latest M-Audio drivers too. I believe your issue revolves around getting the usb/midi interface properly working. Frustrating but based on what others have went through not fatal IMO.

Why did you use Monkey 1.4 and I thought you were going to firmware 2.5? 1.19 should have taken you through everything including the new patches with 2.5. It goes step by step. Its not dead IMO the link I posted will rewrite the flash-memory and should get you back up.

Yep that board will work - I used that one with an HD bean for years. There is no looper button on the top row, the screen is larger and no usb port but the HD's looper is so-so at best, you don't need the FBV's usb and the larger display is nice. Hope that helps! Bill

If its a $3 ebay special I wouldn't bother they typically can't handle the length of data firmware requires. Firmware reflashing always makes me queasy. :)

Well you could have downloaded it anytime you wanted you just needed the email for activation. All's well that ends well! :)

Just went there and PF2 dl started right up after logging in.

Ok let's take this back a notch. 1) use a usb port on the back of the pc - that makes sure it is not a hub. 2) Monkey 1.19 is fine and so is Edit V2 for firmware 2.03 The knob mode warning is fine and I got that too but nothing locked up. If L6 Edit is not working correctly don't flash the firmware. I would uninstall everything and reinstall (you can skip the L6 Edit 3 as you probably have java on there if L6 Edit 2 was running). M-Audio Drivers: be sure to get the latest versions. Now I never had the Armin's Mod loaded, you don't by chance have those on your Vetta? They will lock it up when L6 Edit is loaded. I posted a link in your RIP Thread for the Midi-Ox method of testing and loading the firmware.

What happened my man? If you tested the Vetta with L6 Edit with the M-Audio drivers then you will need to go here and go the alternate route. On a WinXP machine with working Usb/Midi it is a pretty straight forward operation. https://www.reddit.com/r/vetta/comments/4w5ze5/firmware_update_guide/

No DT25 here but I have used the M-Audio Uno countless times for firmware reflashes and editing on L6 gear. Other midi/usb interfaces I have not had much success with. Download the flash file to your pc and use the Monkey option "flash from file" <- for me its the most reliable.

Pod Farm Recording Setup Guide page 4-1. Look for a drop down menu that uses "instrument" as a default. The PF manuals are not too shabby. :)

I've used a GT-3, GT-6 (whatever the desktop version was), RP 1000, RP 500, Zoom G5, G3...etc.... and going in the front of an amp and screaming tone suck is 9/10 BS. Everything is running through a modeler, the only tone is that which the user has dialed up in the unit. They all can sound great once the time is put in. The kick in the nuts is patch creation technique does not always apply across the board, what works for one mfg usually does not translate to another.

TBH your mileage may vary and it depends on your ears. I've used some pretty cheap headphones and they sounded acceptable to me and yes, the more expensive ones did sound better ($100 better eh) but then I am not looking for perfection as I run the HD through an amp and the tones I make sound great through it but not so much through the headphones. That said people have used headphones with varying impedance 55 ohms and up and have posted that they like what they hear. If you run a search like "pod HD headphones" I am sure a bunch of topics will pop up to keep you reading for days. :)

^ Love it. Cruisin' great review: I was looking for a pair that breathed efficiently while yet preserving effervescence. :)

Oh snap!! D just went all "high energy bigly" all over this thread!