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Everything posted by FlyingSquirrel

  1. Those were some pretty creative presets in those 2 video's.
  2. Coming from experience of having had a 20 space rack full of everything at the tune of $12k when I was touring, I'm quite glad for the floor modelling units like the HD500X that I currently have, or the Helix. When your rig has to pay a cover charge because it is so big, it becomes more of a burden than a resource.
  3. If the venue is capable of giving you signal back into your stage monitor, you should need no amp on stage. If you have IEM's, even better. For live, consider consolidating your output to mono. Live Sound Reinforcement is seldom in stereo. Summing to a mono output will solve any phasing issues that may present themselves. Even if you give the a stereo pair of outputs, they're likely only going to put them out from FOH panned down the center. The lower the stage level, the better the fidelity overall. The loudest acoustic instrument on stage sets the minimum stage volume level, which is usually the drums. Minimizing the SPL on stage is better overall, hearing, better control from FOH to provide a mix that comes from the mains, not a combination of the mains and the stage volume.
  4. I had a similar experience in a session yesterday. It turned out the eq controls on the dual concentric pot on a Carvin 5 string bass had been turned all the way up, clipping everything in its path. I brought them back down to flat, problem is gone. That bass/treble spike sent the gain structure through the roof before leaving the Carvin's output jack.
  5. For program changes, yes. Not sure about any cc assignments to the JMP-1 in particular as I do not have a manual. If you run it like the 4 cable method, along with a midi cable from the Pod's Midi-out to the Jmp-1 Midi In, it will receive program change messages. Your POD then becomes an effects unit chained into the effects loop. Be sure to turn off any amp modeling if relying on the JMP-1 for your amp tones.
  6. Ja3k3l, The amp/loop return is pre-power amp section of your amp. There should be nothing between the speaker out of your amp and the speaker cabinet as this is a powered signal and will fry anything else you put there. If your amp does not have an effects loop, you'll have to run the POD in front of the amp, i.e.; guitar-pod-amp-speaker. No other option is available to you under this setup. If your amp does indeed have an effects loop, you would run it as follows: guitar, amp, effects send to pod in, pod out to effects return, speaker out of amp to speaker cab in. Done. I hope that is helpful to you.
  7. See Post Number 5 in this thread: http://line6.com/support/topic/23260-i-have-problems-to-make-work-my-wah/?do=findComment&comment=177104
  8. Wah will only turn on/off if it is part of the preset. There are some presets that have no wah programmed into them. Once it's there, mapping the switches is easy, all the more easier if using the editor.
  9. Well stated. I'll just have to build it up from scratch with the iTunes going.
  10. Surprisingly, couldn't find any usable Bomber tones ala Jerry Cantrell/Alice in Chains on Custom Tone. Most of them are with blackface and or combo'd with something else, but no Bomber only tones. Anyone here have any you'd care to share?
  11. +1. I have my "stock" personal/band presets that start this way. If I have a deviation, ie; flange phaser on the Mod effect, I copy/paste to another location and only change that one effect along with its associate parameters. I have a number of presets that I use which are named according to the song, but they all start out this way. Keep a bank as a "control" or "source" bank, meaning, you never change these presets, but only copy "from" them to another location. Make the edits in the new location and name it according to its need, ie; song name or other. Back them up on hard drive, and USB Thumb drive. I have my presets in my pocket 24/7, and if I showed up to a show with nothing but my guitar and a laptop, I could pull up my presets/sets from that alone.
  12. Well, the ONE Spot and its associated adapters has been working for me using the HD500X and some additional pedals. I got the polarity inverter based on the feedback/counsel from TruTone, and it's a perfect fit. Not sure about any right angle adapters though.
  13. I've always downloaded the manuals for major purchases like processors or synths in advance to see if they would do what I want, then I'd go try it out in the store just to hear the outcome. I had a slight compromise going from the Johnson Millennium J250H head to the POD XT Live only in that I was missing the Dual Signal Path and the Smart Pitch Shift, but I compensated slightly with my Whammy Pedal. I have all of that back, & a tad more in the HD500X, certainly more than I had in my "fridge" rack, including a better tracking, software version of the IPS 33B or H3000 harmonizer. Back then, I couldn't afford to keep up with technology because it was so compartmentalized rather than what we have now in consolidated form. There certainly was a transitional period of time where dedicated processors were better quality than multi processors, but here we are, and I'm quite happy to be here. Gives me far more options to create with, and a much simpler load in/out with a smaller footprint on stage and in the vehicle.
  14. And the more comprehensive version: http://line6.com/support/topic/20373-show-your-boards-stereo-setup/?p=153613
  15. This thread may provide some insight as I had the same question a couple of months back. http://line6.com/support/topic/19997-anybody-using-any-one-spot-products-with-their-hd500x/page-1?do=findComment&comment=150788
  16. Yup. I'm quite thankful for the advance of technology and how it allows us the same tools in a more compact package.
  17. I create all of my presets in the context of a band mix recording, so I set my eq, gain, fx levels, everything, right there. This tellls me if I'm taking up too much, or too little space in the mix, if I'm sitting just right in the sweet spot, my boosts are loud enough but not too loud, my fx levels are just right, everything. I might make some additional adjustments, or copy a preset & make a bit of a low end cut specifically for a 7 string preset, just so that I don't take up space in my bass player's range, but that's about it. More often than not, I show up to play, they bypass the eq, setup a gain structure for unity gain, and give me what I need in my "in ears", and I'm sound checked.
  18. Well, I've been using modelling technology of one sort or another for many years. Back in the 80's/90's I had the big ADA stocked 20 space rack that I invested stupid amounts of money into, as well as a couple of custom 4x12 cabs and a custom horizontal 2x12 cab when I was endorsed by ADA. After they went under, I went the Digitech route with a couple of Valve FX's, then the Johnson Millenium J250 Head. About a decade ago, I got the POD XT Live and then sold off my cabs & Johnson head & went totally direct with "in ears". Haven't looked back since, lower volume in my ears, better fidelity, better monitor mix with stereo separation, my ears are thankful, so is my back and now that I'm on the HD500X, I actually have more processing power than I did in that huge rack. Especially with the pitch shifting functions. The HD500x tracks better than my old favored Digitech IPS-33B did, and I loved that thing! My entire load out consists of about 3 or 4 guitar cases, depending on the gig, the pedal board, and the 6 gtr case/stand with the occasional small gig bag of cables. All of which can stack up in the back seat of my PT Cruiser, or in the cargo area of my Buick Rendezvous SUV. I wheel them all in on a cart, and I'm loaded in.
  19. For me, the Uber model is right in the pocket. I wouldn't mind seeing a model of the EVH 5153 though. Here's a demo version with the Uber. No post eq'ing, no production mixing/mastering, just a quick bounce as a reference mix. http://www.soundclick.com/player/single_player.cfm?songid=13196573&q=hi&newref=1
  20. I have a Carvin AG100D Acoustic Amp that I pull out for use with the 500X on rare occasions that I need an onstage guitar only monitor. When I do, I connect the 500X's line out to the return of the Carvin, essentially bypassing all of the eq and preamp stages, going direct to the power amp section. There's an attenuation control for the tweeter, which I rarely have to touch. Most of the rest of the time, I only use the amp for coffee shop type acoustic performances where it's just my acoustic guitar and my vocal.
  21. Yes, look up a tone in Custom Tone that I created called "Morph". You can then use this as a basic template to "morph" from clean to crunch. It basically requires you to be setup in Dual Tone, select your respective amps, and the expression pedal turns one down as it turns the other up.
  22. Important Clarification as I have not revisited this thread for a bit. Since the HD500X factory wall wart adapter has a higher amp rating in order to provide the HD500X with its required power, the factory supplied HD500X wall wart is what I am using to power via the 5 plug daisy chain. The HD500X is first in line to receive power, then the other units, all of which have been confirmed by True Tone to bear the tolerances necessary to protect them from any potential overpowering. I am NOT using ONE SPOT's wall wart, but I am using their 5 plug daisy chain.
  23. Mine isn't in stereo, but... So I had a pic of my "dry fit" in another thread. Here's the whole thing. 1st Dry Fit: After: I decided to repurpose some cable that I had not used for many years, was just sitting in one of my storage bins of all my gear not currently in use. To replace the plugs, rather than spending upwards of $60 on a solder-less kit ala http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PedalCabKit?adpos=1t1&creative=105744826921&device=c&matchtype=b&network=g&gclid=CjwKEAjwpLa5BRCTwcXS6_rpvC4SJACTDQMMzPfavLhMKzPiXEQ6lKKNYRnNaCJIzGVthCuye8W7GBoCsqnw_wcB and I then purchased a 10-pack of 1/4" Right Angle Plugs that I found on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pack-1-4-TS-Right-Angle-MONO-Phone-Plug-Cord-Connector-6-3mm-Cable-Jack-/310876769771?hash=item4861b30deb:g:FG0AAMXQlgtTAwnF As I mentioned in the other thread, I re-puposed some sheets of 3/8" plywood to make this new board. I measured and cut it to fit inside of my Rondo Pedal Case http://www.rondomusic.com/product8085.htmland made the board 3 sheets thick. The center piece is a "spacer" to allow passage of the power cables and the audio cables concealed between the outer two sheets. The spacer runs the perimeter of the board, as well as strategically placed spacers in the center of the board, most notably where I would step on the expression pedal, the Boss pedal, etc... This is mainly because these areas have to bear more weight due to the heavier switches, so I didn't want the board to sway or dip when I use these switches. I also decided that in order to clean up the edges from splintering around the perimeter, as well as the passage holes routed in the top, that a 3/8" round-over bit should do a nice job of cleaning that up. After that, since the top was nearly perfectly cut, and the center and bottom pieces were roughly cut to match, my flush cut router bit that I use for routing pickup/control cavities should clean that up nicely, and I think it did a reasonable job of doing so. These pics give you a sense for how rigid this board is, plugs won't accidentally unplug so easily, nor will the power cables do so. These brackets that I used to mount them are easily found at most hardware stores. I found these at Home Depot, for about $3.00 a 4-pak. I got the idea from http://www.pedalboardsupplies.com/pedal-links-system.htmlbut decided that I could likely find a more cost effective solution. In the same fashion as the "pedal links", these are non-invasive and totally reversible. They basically act as an oversized washer with an extended tab. I'm going to go back and remove them temporarily so that I can paint them black, then re-apply them so that they'll blend in for a cleaner appearance. Since the G30 Relay Receiver uses very small headed screws that recess into the chassis, I was not able to use the same bracketing system, so I'll have to use some hook&loop fasteners (Velcro), but, the nice thing is that I can just staple the one piece to the board and it'll be easier to remove later if I need to. In discussions with True Tone (formerly Visual Sound) regarding their ONE SPOT ac power supply and adapter kits, we had ascertained that using the ONE SPOT power supply would not be enough to power the HD500X, but it would power all of the other components. Even then, using the 5 Cable Plug Daisy Chain, even the ends on those would not fit the HD500X anyway. We later determined that I could use the HD500X's factory power supply to power the entire rig with no risk of hurting any of the other components, so they advised doing so, but first adding their L6 adapter, to get it into the HD500X, then their reverse polarity connecter plugged into the L6, then the end of the 5 Cable Plug Daisy Chain, powered by the HD500X factory power supply. Now I have accomplished my goal of powering the entire rig from one single "wall wart". I still have room to add another pedal between the Boss & the Morley pedal, i.e. Dunlop John Petrucci Wah pedal or another Boss pedal, but honestly, I have most of what I like and would find useful already in the HD500X. I can now switch between Wireless A, Wireless B, and a cable as a backup on the fly. With all of the Morley switches de-selected, I have another mute function. With the extra power outlets on my power strip, I can power perhaps an iPad, Laptop, my synth rig, or anything else needed. I played this at work the other day and FOH loved being able to just lay out an XLR cable for me to plug into, then I powered it up, they gave me some back in my monitor, and since I'm very meticulous about the way I set up my presets, they were able to switch the eq "out" on the channel strip on the mixing console.
  24. I used my original version of POD Farm up until I got my Mac+Pro Tools, and I have all of my presets from my old XT Live copied into the POD Farm Library. Now that I have the HD500X, I'd like to be able to work similarly, only plugging the HD in when I need to use the expression pedal in particular presets. Otherwise, I just prefer to use the Farm for recording and the HD for gigs.
  25. Sounds like you haven't dialed out the resonant frequency of your guitar with the PEQ.
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