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Hello. My Spider Valve HD 100 suffers from the black bars of death syndrome (8 black bars display on the lcd and no sound). I'm from Portugal and the authorized repair service told me that Yamaha (line 6 owner) told them that the problem is the dsp / main pcba board, but unfortunately they no longer have this replacement part, so the official repair service is unnable to repair the amp. That sucks big time, and is a big downside on Line 6 the costumer service. Does anyone know where i can find a dsp/main pcba board for a Spider Valve HD100, or how can I get in touch with Line 6 parts department? Or can anyone tell me if this Line 6 50-02-9325-1,Main PCB with DSP for Spider Valve 112 MkII, can do the job on my Spider Valve HD100 (first generation)?? Link: http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/209041-Line-6-50-02-9325-1 Thanks in advance. PR

I had a recent problem with my Spider Valve MkII HD100 head - it would randomly switch channels for no reason. I removed the shortboard and took all my effects out of the effects loop and the problem still occurred - about every10 seconds it would switch channels a couple times. I spent some time searching/reading forums to see if anyone was reporting similar problems. I saw two things Thermal problems with the HD100 MkI Someone suggested that if you play loud, sometimes the vibrations can cause the amp to think you are moving the knobs - suggested turning all the knobs to zero. I decided to take the amp apart and inspect it. Nothing seemed obviously wrong, but I hoped that disconnecting and reconnecting all the cables to the digital section might magically fix the problem. No such luck. Problem still existed. I decided to turn all the knobs to their zero position - I wasn't playing loud, but had nothing else to try. BINGO! Turning all the knobs to zero and the problem went away. I played for about 20 minutes with no phantom switching - previously it would switch every 10 seconds. A little more investigation, and I noticed that when I moved the Drive or Bass knob, the channel would switch. Looks like some cross talk between the first three knobs (first 3 knobs are Channel, Drive, Bass - in that order). None of the other knobs cause any problems. So now the amp is usable - although I am a little hesitant to use it in a gig. It still doesn't work right, but I don't actually use the Drive and Bass knobs much if at all. QUESTION #1 - anyone seen phantom channel switching like this? QUESTION #2 - anyone got any suggestions for how to fix the problem I have with the Drive and Bass knobs causing channel switching? Note: I bought another HD100 amp so I can play gigs. I had to buy it used since they don't make new ones anymore. Huge bummer because I think this is a fantastic sounding amp - and great for me since I play in a cover band and I need a versatile amp. QUESTION #3 - if they don't make the HD100 anymore, what is the replacement in the Line6 product line? Jack

Hey everyone. So this is my first tube amp, and it was working great so far. However, Yesterday during band practise, after it had been on and working perfectly for two hours, the volume suddenly dropped. When I checked the amp to see what was going on, I noticed that one of the tubes (the one on the left) was way hotter than the others. when I turned down the volume, where was a small lightning inside the tube, and then no sound. From what I've gathered from the internet, the tubes weren't paired or biased properly. When the amp is on, the other tubes light up normally. Anyway, when I bought the amp, the people at the store had only two tubes installed (the two in the center), to cut the output down and make it playable in the store. I wanted to know if there is any specific manipulation to do in order to do that. (I have a gig in 4 days and I probably won't have neither time nor money enough to have the tubes changed and the amp biased before then).

Hi, Preface: I kind of browsed the forum but couldn't find anything matching my problem. I bought a Spider Valve HD100 Mk1 to use while my main amp is being serviced. The seller went through the paces with the amp and informed me the master volume didn't work. being as it was super loud and controllable through channel volume I still bought it. I plan on keeping it as a backup so id like to see if I can fix this issue. Issue: Master Volume sounds to be at about 7 id say compared to other 100 watt amps ive used. I can turn the knob from 0 - 10 and no change in volume, no static, zero response. The volume can be controlled by the channel volume but switching presets will blow ears out if not careful. Could this be remedied by a simple pot change or could it be something more. Looking on suggestions on troubleshooting the circuit maybe? I have some electronics experience so I know about high voltages etc going into the amp. Thanks

About a week ago my HD100 started acting possessed. Switches channels on its own. Volume and wah on my Shortboard working backwards, not illuminating, etc. It is literally unplayable at this point. I eliminated the shortboard as the problem by plugging into my Spider III combo. Works fine. Anyone have any idea what the issue could be? It seems to be progressing, almost like a computer virus.

Hey guys I have a Line 6 Spider Valve HD100 that I was trying to determine a manufacture date on. Serial is (21)SVH1S5834001564 Any help would be appreciated. Thank you! John

Hello, I think soon buy this pedal , but to be sure to make the right purchase , I would like to know .... the pedal is it compatible with my amp Spider Valve MkII HD100 and how I could best connect the 100FX ? Thank you for your answers Daan.

I've been using my Spider Valve MkII HD100 head for four and a half years at rehearsals and live on stage, usually running it through a 4x12" Marshall speaker. After weeks of tweaking I finally got "my" sound out of it, and the fact is I got it to sound really, really great. Through these years it was the most reliable tool, never letting me down even once in all this time. The other day I turned the amp on to rehearse and there wasn't any sound through the speaker outputs. Some days earlier it worked just fine and no one had touched it. The digital part of it worked perfectly, it works as a POD through the line output this is. Off course I've tried with various cables and speaker cabinets and also other amp heads with the cabinets. I did a factory reset, checked the two fuses on the back, but didn't solve the problem. Does anyone know what it could be? Has any had the same problem with these amps? Peace. / PM

Hello, I have an issue with my first gen HD100. When plugged into my 2x12 Avatar cab, even with the master and channel volume all the way up, the amp is extremely quiet. It is still making noise and working but it isn't even as loud as a 5 watt amp. I have already tried changing the power tubes to a matched quad of JJ 6l6s and that did nothing. I am pretty sure it is an issue in the preamp stage since when I plug my guitar into the "poweramp in" I can get loud volumes out of the amp. Just not when running through the normal input... anyone have any ideas?

I have owned a HD100 Mk II for a little over a year now and I am having problems with it for the second time. The first occasion the amp would run but there was no sound. I sent the head back to Line 6 and the motherboard was replaced under warranty. It was explained the stock motherboards were faulty in the early Mk IIs. This evening I have run into my second issue. I turned it on and got low volume from a clean channel. Moments later, a very loud distorted feedback began to ring through. It was at piercing volume and even after turning the volume all the way down, the amp continued to scream and buzz. I put the amp in stand-by mode to relieve my ears and turned to my computer. All of the sudden it began to scream and buzz even in stand-by mode. I am not sure what is causing this. Immediately I assumed tubes but given the problem persisting in stand-by mode, this must be something else. Any suggestions out there? I think I should have gone with a Marshal stack and Line 6 pod vice the SV. Apparently there is too much going on with a Line 6 head to function reliably. Now outside the warranty, I could use some help before dropping cash on tubes and techs to tell me Line 6 will have to fix it. Regards, Lee

I am using the HD100 MKII head with an old crate blue voodoo 4x12 slant cabinet. The cab has celestion green backs installed. The problem is the most bizarre thing I have ever seen. At moderate volumes the 4x12 will spit the 1/4" cable out the back of the cab. It tends to happen when the cab is flat on the floor without the wheels installed. Any thoughts on why this is happening. I have used a marshall tsl60 through this cabinet for years and never had this problem before. Any thoughts on this??? Thanks!