Leaderboard

It is best to sell or trade in your Amplifi product while you can. There is no immediate tech support. More importantly, lack of immediate parts availability when (and it will happen) your amp or pedal stops working. Sending to an authorized repair service out of warranty will cost you a lot of money and a lot of time for something that will fail again. Sending it in under warranty is resolved by replacing a PCB board that is not in stock and that takes a lot of time. As of this writing, up to two months to wait for your unit to return from warranty repair. Ordering parts out of warranty from a local service center results in price gouging and delays. A good concept that was poorly designed and supported. I have owned the Amplifi 150, FX100, my friend has an Amplifi 150, and they all stopped working due to the main PCB, or the power supply.

Not new to L6, started on original red POD, then POD 2.0 then POD HD, then POD HD 500... After my recording projects were done, I always parted ways because those solutions seemed to be silo'd to me. Meaning, I never incorporated them into a live rig, which consists of two Dr. Z amps and a boutique set of pedals. I also have an old Avid Eleven Rack cabled into my PT rig. When I realized my board was heavy on drives and distortion pedals, I started looking into more expensive mod/time-based pedals and then I discovered a video by Richie Castellano on 6 ways to setup and use the HX Stomp. That peaked my interest. So I completely rebuilt my board around the Stomp, to include the L6 / Mission Engineering Helix Expression pedal. I had to do some tweaking to make the toe button FS5 as I wanted it to enable some blocks that it otherwise didn't natively enable out of the box. I put all my pedals in the loop of the Stomp, and put the Stomp in the loop of my Empress + Buffer, and from there goes to one of my two Z's (whichever one I feel like playing). The Reverbs, Delays, volume, wah, and other mod/time-based effects are STUNNING!!! So I set up a few patches, now I just have to figure out how to go form 34A to 34B while their in the Stomp mode... Now onto the amps and cabs. Like I said, I've been into modeling for a while, and it was always just "ok"..... I always prefer mic'ing cabs (I have a good assortment of ribbon's, small diaphragm condensers, large diaphragm condensers and tons of 57's). Typically I do a ribbon + small condenser or 57 + small condenser... Both off axis. Last night for the first time, I patched in L/R 1/4" outs into my pre's and quickly dialed up the clean Friedman and enabled a stereo track in ProTools. The tone was blissful, I could have jammed for hours just with that amp, native cab and a bit of verb... I threw the Minitor (sp) on it for some drive and was blown away. Now it's got me thinking, is it time for a Power Cab + 212? I'd prefer low volume, sound... my Z's have the Z-Brake for attenuation. I have to admit, I'm thoroughly blown away, and impressed with the quality of the unit. I'm also finding getting around and doing some advanced things isn't all that difficult. Back in the day I used to have Digitech 2112 and if anyone knows that platform, you had to be somewhat of an engineer on that. I also like the simplicity of the Stomp, I'm a simple guy... my amps are hand-wired, point-to-point with some NOS tubs... I think the Helix or Helix LT would have been complete overkill for my brain to wrap around... If you give me hundred parameters, I'm the type that thinks I need to use all of them. The Stomp is small, simple, quick to get going and I don't use the editing software. I also don't really see having dozens of patches. I only use Dr.Z amps and have two (Carmen Ghia & Maz 38) so I don't see utilizing 50 million amps that this offers. I like the Placator, probably a Fender and a Matchless or Vox patch. I don't play metal and I'm not a huge Mesa or Marshall fan. I've owned plento Marshalls, but always leaned towards a Fender/Dumble thing. My only wish from Line 6 is that instead of the Dr. Z RT 66, that you please include a MAZ 18 or MAZ 38. Those two are really the workhorse of the Z fleet, and for good nature perhaps add a Carmen Ghia. The RT 66 is more niche than mainstream, IMO... Doc will probably correct me on that though. I could totally see using this both in my guitar rig, recording and if I ever got to play live again. This is my initial thoughts on this little box. I hope this helps anyone that's on the fence.

Great point. I hadn't considered the other use cases.

I honestly wish we'd never coined the term FRFR, which was in common use LONG before it was commercialized by Headrush. It's been so misleading and confusing for people. But I do think this generation of powered speaker brings a lot to the table depending on how it's being used. For me it's not about range or flatness as much as it is about clarity and definition when it comes to the guitar. In some cases and in some genres particularly those using high gain sound that may not be as important as it is in styles like jazz, funk, country or even certain finger picked styles. Regardless of whether you use it on stage to monitor your sound, you can be assured speakers of this nature will be what is heard by your audience on most modern PA systems, so you might as well get used to adapting to it if you're going to be using a modeler.

It kind of depends on what you intend to use them for. A lot of us buy the FRFR systems for a multitude of options. So, for example, when practicing we want to jam to the real song coming out of the same speaker, and so we want a wider range than what a guitar amp would do. Or we want to plug in acoustic guitar into it which needs a wider range than an electric. Or you plan on running all types of instruments through it. The one I use has a frequency response of 50Hz to 20 kHz.

https://line6.com/allure/

The Laney has a setting for FRFR, 112, or 412.

Make date is early 2019. And more than likely with the Macassar ebony. And they are still in production. Finished and passed factory January 2019 (W1901xxxx), arrival Yamaha Australia would be that September date of this year, 2019. "Is it possible it was not made in Jan this year as you suggest? "--- No,... I'm the guy at Line 6 HQ that does service and repair on these. My supervisor and I track this stuff for QA.

There's a global setting (as of v2.8 I believe) that allows you to specify that rotating the joystick knob will let you navigate left/right along the signal chain and select the adjacent block rather than changing the model selection of the current block.

You may not have noticed that you're referencing a post from 2014. I would do some investigation before trying to update your Amplifi device. Although it doesn't happen to everyone, there are plenty of instances of failed Amplifi updates bricking the hardware. You'll find a lot of complaints about that on the forum. It happened to me despite the fact that I am very experienced and knowledgeable with computer hardware, and even attempted the procedure while talking with a Line 6 tech on the phone monitoring my every step. Line 6 eventually covered the cost of repairs, but it set me back over $100 to send it to California. When it returned, it worked, but there was no report on what was done to fix it. I inquired and was told that the firmware was reloaded. Well, duh -- what do you think I was trying to do on the phone with the Line 6 tech? I'd suggest first attempting to verify the version of your Amplifi firmware, which can be done non-destructively. There have been few updates, and none for well over a year. If you are running an outdated version that is currently working, or you don't absolutely need to try to update, don't press your luck.

Hi all My amplifi 75 has no sound through the main 8" speaker. I have opened the back and noticed a 5 pin chip has burned out on a pcb. Does anyone know what chip that is? I can't find any detail for it anywhere. The chip itself has UTC TDA 20 printed on it, but I can't see the rest of the wording as it's burnt. I wonder if any of you delightfull chaps could help. Thanks in advance.