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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/31/2020 in all areas

  1. thank you guys I tried what I read on here and it sweetened the sound I had.
    2 points
  2. Hi all I have a strange issue. I run a UX2 with Windows 10. Since the upgrade to Windows 10 I have an issue where my sound through the UX2 will stop working and I end up with no sound at all. I have spent months trying different things. The wierd part is it only stops when I have had a browser running for a while. It doesn't matter which browser I use it causes the same issue. The only way to get the sound back is by restarting Windows. All hardware information shows it's running fine when the sound stops working but I get absolutely nothing at all. Has anyone seen anything like this before? Thanks guys
    1 point
  3. Hi, Well, it looks like you had already figured this out. If you have your Zoia patched into a stereo FX Send/Return loop, that’s as far as it goes, simply because of the fact that your Zoia only has 2 jack sockets available for getting signals in and out of the box of tricks. Same goes for the Helix - it’s physically restricted by the numbers of sockets. Once they’ve been used that’s it, but it depends what you daisy chain into the stuff in the send/return loop. For example, depending I what I require at the time, I can have a SEND -> DittoX4 Looper -> Zoom MS-70CDR -> Yamaha SPX 90 -> RETURN . I know you can do lots of stuff with the Zoia, and as far as I’m aware, it has a couple of Fuzz and Overdrive blocks, but really I would be tempted to use it for all the sonic duties that your Helix can’t provide. Hope this helps/makes sense.
    1 point
  4. Thanks a lot for your reply. The only thing I haven't done was restarting my computer. I did that and it worked, my HXFX runs the newer version. I have other issue now with massive noise (hum) when going 4CM. I will go trough old topics before I start asking questions Thanks again
    1 point
  5. Fair enough. That’s why I read every forum and resource I can before I buy a product. I am happy to take a chance as long as I know what I can expect. One thing I’ve learned in my readings is for instance that Helix has a couple of weak links (the headphone volume knob and, as in your case, the joystick soldering) but also that Line6 has an excellent customer support. The latter may very well more than counterbalance the former.
    1 point
  6. To each their own, but as far as I'm concerned Helix in it's current state already teeters on the brink of becoming an all-consuming parameter tweaking rabbit hole. Last thing I need is a whole other dimension of adjustments to sift through... besides, the farther down you drill into smaller and smaller sub- parameters, the less effect any particular one will have on the final product. At some point it becomes like trying to alter a recipe for beef stew by adding or removing 3 grains of salt... you wouldn't be able to tell the difference with a gun to your head. Just my 2 cents...
    1 point
  7. Thanks for all the responses in this thread. I bought the pedal and just came back to this thread and saw the patch to try. Natural high is the most convincing thing I found on the pedal so I am looking forward to giving @TLF2007 example a try out and compare with the real thing. I will post an update later.
    1 point
  8. In Windows Sound Panel set Playback to Helix. That gets any streaming sources (YT, Spotify, etc) to Helix. In Global Settings>Ins/Outs, set USB 1/2 Destination to XLR. That gets the Protools and streaming signals to your monitor speakers. In Protools Preferences (or whatever they call it, I don't use Protools) in the ASIO section there's probably a way to select all of the Helix outputs to be available as Inputs. Take the Track Input from USB 3/4 or 5/6. If you use 1/2 you'll get the mixed streaming and Helix signals. Set your Presets' Output Block to Digital. That gets your Direct signal to the PC112. If you leave it set to Multi you'll also hear it through the monitors. In Protools, there will be a button on each track that allows you to monitor the track's playback. That should be OFF when recording or you'll get an echo effect caused by hearing the latency effected playback through your monitors alongside your Direct signal through the PC112.
    1 point
  9. Current is measured in ampere, right. That adapter has a jack. You would need a plug: https://www.logsdonaudio.com/cables/strymon-power-supply-and-line-6-pedal-current-doubler-cable Only use with a 9V power supply!
    1 point
  10. I would completely unistall all the software from line 6 and install again. Just install the latest pod go edit, that will take care also of the firmware upgrade. however I would quote what Jason Cohen wrote on his pod go support page on facebook, regarding pod go, factory reset, and update issues: #1 DO NOT HOOK UP YOUR POD GO TO YOUR PC TILL YOU GET THE SOFTWARE INSTALLED!! The software prompts you when to hook it up. If you were hooked up before installing the update you got lollipoped cause windows lollipops up the drivers. #2 pod go can not be hooked up to a USB hub! 99.99999999% of USB ports on the front of your PC are a HUB and not directly connected to the motherboard. So on to how to fix if your pod go doesn't start (or if you want to deep reset) 1. Power Off your PodGo for 30 seconds and turn it back on. If this does not fix the issue move to Step 2. 2. If a restart does to fix your PodGo follow these instructions. Turn the power off, and hold buttons C and D then power your PodGo back on. On your screen you will get a prompt that it is doing the factory reset. DO NOT POWER DOWN YOUR PODGO AT ANY POINT DURING THIS PROCESS!!. When it is complete the screen will go to the normal pod go preset screen. At this point it is safe to power down your PodGo. If this doesn't work move to step 3. 3. If your PodGo does not fix itself after the above 2 attempts. Do the following. Power off your PodGo, press and hold A&B, turn the power on. On your screen you will get a prompt that it is doing the factory reset. DO NOT POWER DOWN YOUR PODGO AT ANY POINT DURING THIS PROCESS!!. When it is complete the screen will go to the normal pod go preset screen. At this point it is safe to power down your PodGo. If this doesn't work move to step 4. 4. Email Line 6 support, they will walk you through a re-install of the firmware / software on the PodGo. Have patience it will take them a few days to get back to you.
    1 point
  11. It's not a matter of how many amps do I need, it's a matter of do I have the amp that will do what I need, for a particular song (And you could also say for a particular guitar, with a particular pick-up, etc).That's right, I use the Helix in a recording studio, and I don't "fix it in the mix" with plug-ins. By your logic, Line 6 should stop development and consider the Helix complete and move on. Because according to you, we have "plenty", and should just "make do".
    1 point
  12. This is where my head is at honestly. I just don't have the money to have AxeFX, and HX, and I surely didn't when I was getting my gear. Its not that I don't think the Axe Fx doesn't sound fantastic, I think it sounds astounding, and sometimes better than Helix, but my line of reasoning went a little different. When I was getting my gear, I was looking at routing, and ReAmp options as I was at the point where if it sounded better than my 11r I am sold... diminishing returns, and all . At the time it was Helix Rack, and Axe FX 2 XL+. I did not go Axe for two reasons. (A) Price (for me at the time it was about $1,000 difference) (B) Helix was new, it would be supported for quite some time, and Axe Fx II was getting old, I figured the successor was just around the corner, and I was not wrong. (but I didn't want to wait for Axe 3) So I invested in Helix Rack, controller, expression. Then over time with the updates they released this little gem Helix Native. That integration between the hardware, and that software was a deal sealer for me. As far as I know, there is no competition in this regard, and certainly wasn't at the time. Fractal doesn't have a plugin of their AxeFx suite. I do not regret my choice one bit, even after hearing Axe FX III comparison videos, and preferring the tone over the Helix in the same video at times. Also for two reasons. (A) The people dialing in the tones may be biased to one product, or the other. (B) They are not me, nor are they dialing in a tone, with my gear, for the song I am creating. I love the tones I get out of my Helix, and I will only get better at it. I might be able to get slightly better tones out of the AxeFX III, but I am not paying the toll to find out. By the time I want to upgrade that particular piece of equipment I am sure that L6 will have a Helix successor ready, and Axe FX III will be getting a bit long in the tooth to upgrade to for me. Who knows, may even be other contenders out there... Wow, I did not intend to type this much. Some fine examples, and playing posted above. You guys are better guitar players than I am in some ways. Very Nice.
    1 point
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