mikisb

sounds great and i like the music!! can you tell how you "made" the organ part using the guitar?

no links needed as it is pretty simple: :) move the curser witth the joystick (just reight of the dieplay at the position you want to add something, then press the joystick. Choose whatever you want to put on this position. You can move blocks by moving the cursor to the block and then press "action". Move it to the desired position and press the joystick. Press "save" twice and you've changed the factory preset. If you want to save it to another place, press save only once and choose the desired location with the knobs under the diaplay before finally saving.

thanks for all yout hints!!! testing in a guitar store would be difficult as even a single 10" can produce low end at lower levels (with EQ, it's just a change deepbass <=> volume). I've ordered now a single 12" coaxial monitor with 350W RMS. For guitar it should really be enough and if this thing is OK for bass al low levels, i'll buy a second one. This gives me some options to use the Helix stereo abilities, to "go out" only with one speaker for smaller gigs with less weight and to use both 12" for bass. I think, this should be enough, but it won't probably leave much headroom.

Hi Zooey, sometimes things are just like that ;) So if the buffer is after the volume control, the resistive load did'nt change. So it's really just the capacity wich the pickups are missing, with your short cable about 110 pF. With this, there sould be no tonal difference from active to passive, except the bussfer is'nt linear.

I play guitar and sometimes bass with the helix. Mostly at home, but on small stages without PA too. Now i want to buy for different reasons one or two active frfr monitors. For guitar only, i would take a 12+1. For bass, i rather would take a 15+1. Both would be loud enough for me. What's the minimum for bass on small stages up to 300 people "against" acoustic drums and classic rock? Are 2x10"or 2x12? as powerful with bass as a 1x15" One monitor would be the cheaper solution and lighter than two, on the other hand i would like to try stereo wich i never did. In know that it depends on the quality of the systems, but provided the same quality, what would you prefer?

I'm out :P . Until i have'nt discovered at last 50 percent of all the possibilties, i really don't want to have more features. Did you, fastnloud, really explore all the amps with all the tweaking options? I'll bet that there are not verry much amps wich can't be reproduced with the existing models using all the little tweakers as bias,sag, mic, Distance, low and highcut.............. More important to me: Perfect stability and perhaps some cabs with less bright sound. Second one is no priority to me.

there's nothing else going on. But again: Where in the circuit of the guitar the buffer is positioned? Between Pickups and potentiometers or after the potentiometers? Or are you comparing different guitars with different pickups? Each pivkup has its individual resonance frequency and "peak strength" and is influenced individually by pots and cables. This all depends on the inductivity and resistance of the pickup coils, how they are solded together and some other details as magnets, magnet position and magnetic materia (as steel) in the coil. Sorry that i'm perhaps a little bit slow in understaning, but a foreign language makes things not easier to me ;) It would be easy if you could pass by and we could measure your guitar and cable, but from Boston to Germany is not this easy.

Hi zooey, Yes, all this is in my case inspired by Lemme, who sells C-switches, but i mady mine myself. To not to talk to much, i try it with pictures. This happens to a Pickup by changing the capacitive load before the first buffer (own measurement), this is a Seymour SH 4 with C-Switch 0-1000 pF and 500 KOhm load. you will notice that a short cable with 100 pf and a long cable with 1000 pF make a huge difference!!!!! This happens to a Pickup with different resistive loads (sum of tone + vol + Amp) The same SH4 with 106, 207 and 328 Ohms load at 569 pf kapacitive load. So if your buffer is behind two 250 Kohm pots, you have a resistive load of 125 Kohm and a capacitive load from about zero. I cannot know exactly what you're hearing and what of this you don't like. But perhaps these measurements help you to discover the reason and to find the solution ;) To say that the SH4 does not have a strong resonance, other pickups have far more (depending on the winding, magnet, construction of the Pickup. A strong resonance can sound very characteristic but it can also also kill your ears. So it's all about your taste and your gear you're using as with passive pickups, this often changes more than a new pickup. Unfortunally, a lot of people won't believe this - a lucky fact for Seymour, Di Marzio..... :D After all, it's not rocket science, so a lot of Voodo is needed to make money ;)

Hi zooey, that's easy ;) i do it every day, 'cause i use a c-switch in my guitars. A good good guitar cable has about 80 pf/meter, a really bad up to 200 pf/meter. Standard is about 110 pf/m. So you just have to put a capacity corresponding to yout prefered cable leghts in meters multiplied with 110pf and solder it between hot and ground of the buffers input. Do you have your buffer before or after the volume and tone controls? I suppose it's after the pots because cou can run your guitar passive. If you have ist after the pots, everything is ok now. If you have it before the pots you still have to simulate the resistive load of the pots seen by the pickups, in your strat probably 125 KOhms, if you have 2x 250 KOhms pots. But regulary, the buffer ist after the pots so this will not be necessary. Just in case you don't know: The capacitive load lowers the resonance frequency itself from lets say 8 to 4.5 KHz, where the resistive load lowers the peak wich is reproduced by the resonance frequency, lets say from 10 to 4 dB. A lower input impedance of the helix does'nt help in this case, because with buffer, yout guitar is'nt depending on this while it it without buffer. Using the tone pot to lower the resonance frequency kills the peak completly in the middle and gives you a strong peak just at the end of the range at a much to low frequency, as the capacity of the tone is way to high for this purpose. You'll need probably about 550 pF, not 10 nF or more wich would be 20 times more. The behaviour of tone controls is'nt absolutly not a linear thing.

I think it's a misunderstanding of the function ;) I don't think that the Helix senses anything you're changing on the guitar. "Auto" means imho that Helix is adjusting his input impedance depending on the first active device after the guitar cable. So if you take a certain Wah pedal, input impedance is set as low as the original was with all consequences on the guitar signal. So the rest of the idea should'nt work ;)

Hi roscoe, dont worry to much about what i say because i don't know nothing about IRs and maybe what i think to "discover" is wrong. I tried to create a IR file of my DT25 with a high grade measurement microphone and failed completly. Not to much treble, but to less bass and base. Seems that it is'nt so easy ;) I use a software for loudspeaker mesaurements (Arta) wich is able to import .wav files and show them as frequency response and as impulse. In case you need it - Arta is freeware with full functionaility except saving and loading files. But a license is'nt expensive and it's a real powerful tool. Here's a screenshot of one of your IRs: where it seems that the impulse record does'nt start at zero. Perhaps this might influence the trebles? As frequency response, this IR looks like this: this seems about plausible to me, so i don't know where the harshness comes. Well - my measurement of the DT25 (open back) looses about 40 dB from 5 to 20 KHz what seems quite normal to me for a guitar speaker. Let's better forget about manufacturers specs about frequency range. Usually they use a +/- 3 dB range - what happens after - who knows ;) Some tell the specs at -10 dB - does'nt help us much further. I used a measurement microphone wich is ultralinear up to 40 Kz, so my measurement is not colored by a musicians mic. I measured on axis - off axis the drop probably would even be stronger. Your Marshall cab shows a drop of "only" about 17 dB from 5-10 KHz. What microphone in wich angle and distance did you use? I still have to change my main computer from XP to 7, in the actual situation it's hard for me to measure (Win XP) and work with the Helix wich needs Win 7 or above. When i've done this, i probably can get a bit deeper in IRs.

just checked out your IRs. Thanks again for this work!!!!!!! What i noticed: Compared to the free IRs of ownhammer, there is more treble in almost every of your models. In my setup it sounds more authentic with activated highcut. at about 4.5-7 KHz. When i look at the impulse response itself it seems, that the start could be a bit to late, so the first sample of the wav file seems not tobe really the first of the impulse. But perhaps my software is misleading me here. Or could it be that you've cut a bit close?

Is'nt it recommemdet to backup the own patches before updating? Not neccessary for the factory presets, as they come back with a reset. But if they are changed to your taste.....?

did'nt try out one of your IRs but i will do it soon. So, in advance: Thanks for the work and sharing the results!!

it's the old trap ;) The footswitch activates when you press the pedal all the way down, but jou need a bit of pressure/weight. Pushing it with the hands ist to hard (for me). If it does'nt work with the foot, you'll have to eat a bit more.

obviously everything but the master volume. Thats the reason why i asked for a global EQ dedicated to the headphone out.

Thanks!! How shall i ever master all these great options? I suppose the Helix will be a toy and tool for a long time :) Even more cool: in the edit mode, i can cnahge the IRs by pressing Value+/Value- and with the pedal.

Thanks - good advice!! I did this before and it's a great possibility (like all the possibilities i'm actually swimming in), but sometimes a certain sound forces me to see how it reacts on some things - this does'nt work with the looper. But i guess, that's really a luxury problem ;)

just discovered, that i can sweep trough the IRs using the experession pedal, wich is a great tool to tewak a sound without stopping to play. I just love all these gadgets we have nowadays. But it's not easy to point a certain IR when 128 IRs are in the range of one footkick. In know that i could limit the way of the pedal, but i want it all :D So is there a possibility to program a footswitch (or better two) to switch a certain parameter up and down (like the bank/preset switches to the left)? Would still make this more comfortable. I don't think so and it would not be an important feature, but perhaps i may ask? ;)

No updater needed, as the updater updates the helix itself (hardware) and not the app (software). The Hhelix firmware did'nt change and is still at 1.10. Perhaps it was not the greatest idea from line 6 to call both just "helix" ;) I've downloaded the 1.11 app (Helix1.11.1Installer.exe), installed it (where it replaced the older app) and thats it. No problems at all.

I think so, because i assume, that 1.11 is the App and 1.10 the firmware of the device

You mean all together? I do'nt think so, just the active one. To show all blocks in Detail in a complex patch probably would require a much bigger screen than must of us own ;) But another smart feature: In blocks with a lot of parameters as amp+cab, ju can scroll down to reach the cabs parameters. Or you can just click on the cab under the amp ;) Some details are really nice!

If you mean this: Just a little screenshot for mouthwatering ;) The pictures of the devices are not really big but good enough to recognize what's selected.

Dealers in Germany talk about 02.05.2016. No idea if they can hold the promise and how many days earlier the dealers in USA receive them.

If all three sound good and only are different in smaller details in this point, convenience becomes the most important point to me. Forgetting all routing options and coloured lights, and forgetting the big sharp screen, just to know what will happen if i touch a footswitch in one of dozens of presets (scribble strips) for me is an huge advantage. I would whish that more devices with changable button functions would have this feature, such as cameras. This really makes live easier.