codamedia

Buy, experiment, and use whatever you want to use! There is no right or wrong way to do any of this. FWIW... I'm a die hard "direct to FOH/Monitors/FRFR" guy because that suits me best. But I also realize that many people do not like hearing themselves like that and prefer an amp... who am I to tell them they are wrong. If anyone is getting a good tone (or even a creative tone), I don't care how they are doing it :)

A rotary is level modulation ... therefore you could look at some tremolo options. The harmonic tremolo provides some needed options... such as waveform choice (sine or triangle is better than square in this case) and bass/treb frequency. For a reasonably accurate rotary you want the highs to be effected, while the lows stay relatively unscathed. The basic "tremolo" may also work (it also has waveform choice), but to avoid effecting the lows you will have to place it in a parallel path and set the split to a "split crossover" and only send the high end to the effect.

Try upgrading to 2.82 2.82 is a bug fix update... and it appears the first item on the "bug fixes" list might be related to what you are describing. It's not exact... but it's sounds related. "When a stomp footswitch is used to toggle a parameter’s min and max values, in some cases the dim/lit state of the LED could become inverted"

I see... the diagram was your "desired" way to run it. I don't own a Stomp... so I thought it may have had different output options than the Helix when I saw your image.

Does that mean you are NOT using a send right now? If so... what is that diagram you posted?

When I called up the video... outside of the effects it sounded like a Marshall Super Lead to me (eg: Plexi).... and even if it isn't, I know I could get that "basic" tone with one. Therefore, IMO.... start with the HX Effects model of the King of Tone (Tone Sovereign)... or the Prince of Tone (Heir Apparent)

Please no.... Good wireless units are not cheap... this would raise the cost substantially. Building in a bare bones cheap receiver would be a mockery to the Helix. Users would still need to buy compatible transmitter(s)... Users that don't use wireless would pay (steeply) for something they don't use Users that do use wireless would be forced into using this one.... or they could still use their own and #3 would apply to them as well.

Yes, you need a block in path B in order to create the split.... but why not just drop the IR block to path B and let it create the split, then reverse the output destinations from what is shown in the photo? Then you don't need that gain/volume block... In case you are not aware you also don't need to use a send.... you could just pan the two paths to utilize the Left/Right outputs independently. Or did I misunderstand your problem?

One year in with the Helix myself, and that is exactly how I feel. I have sold most of my pedals and even sold off some of my amps. I no longer scour the local classifieds to buy/sell/trade amps/pedals any longer... and new amps/pedals don't interest me. I've been a line 6 user long before the Helix (POD, X3 Live, HD500) and in all those instances I never fully gave up my amps or my pedal board. I'd pick and choose the right tools for the gig which sometimes included the modeler, and sometimes didn't. Since acquiring the Helix, it has ALWAYS been the right choice for the gig.

Helix II? That was more than three years ago. We are now up to Helix II.VIII II.

Try update 2.8.2 which is the latest offering. It has plenty of bug fixes... and IIRC it may address what you are describing. Don't forget to follow the update procedure as provided/written... missing a step will only result in you returning here and being ridiculed by the masses - LOL! (Although in fairness, the 2.81 - 2.82 update is pretty painless)

I must admit... I'm a creature of habit. The amps I go to in the Helix are the ones I've had experience with in the wild... either owned, or used frequently in backline situations. Since the Helix mimics the way the amp worked, I immediately adjust my "go to" settings for those amps and start from there. They are different for every amp. On the rare occasion I stray from what I know, I know Line 6 has done it's homework. Dial up an amp and see what they set for it by default... I know that will be close to a real world usage and just needs to be adjusted for my tastes/guitars. FWIW... I tend to go with thick mids, then adjust my bass and highs to taste... nothing boomy, nothing shrill. If anything, my tones might be considered thicker/darker than most might dial in. EG: On a typical Fender Twin (with a Tele) I would put the mids over half, the highs and lows around 2 - 3, bright switch off. Of course, this varies from guitar to guitar... and even with pickup selections. Thanks to the Helix/Snapshots, that becomes easy :)

+1 to both statements above. I also do this with my LT.

IMO... I don't think so. It's full range, and it's flat response (likely more flat response than most systems that claim to be).... it should be fine. If you are new to modeling, are you aware of the difference in how you are hearing things? Listening to the Helix through a full range cabinet is NOT likely listening to a guitar amp. It is like listening to a guitar amp, with a mic on it, coming through the full range cabinet. EG: Put your marshall in another room, put a mic on it, and put the mic through your HK Audio Linear speaker. Now you are comparing apples to apples.

If you used an amp and pedals, how would you dial in your tones? Likely by turning up the amp close to stage volume and adjusting everything until it sounds best. It is no different with a Helix. When possible, plug into the same or similar setup you would use live (I know with PA's this becomes impractical) and setup your tones at "gig volume" or as close as possible to it. FWIW... this is my method. I have a home studio, with two sets of speakers (I A/B the speakers, I never play them both at the same time) Studio grade 6.5" near field monitors Consumer grade 3 ways speakers with a 10" woofer, mid and tweeter I monitor my Helix at about 85db... this takes the Fletcher Munson curve out of play which is critical to setting up tones. re: Fletcher Munson! If you monitor too quietly you are likely to increase the highs and lows to make it sound artificially louder... this often results in a "boomy, tinny & thin" tone that disappears on a stage with the rest of the band I dial up my tones to sounds really good on each set of speakers I put on some music that I can play along with, in the style the tone was setup for - this allows me to hear the tone "in context"... Tweak tone a little as needed. If I need to drastically alter the tone, I return to step 3 to make sure it still sounds good on it's own, through each set of speakers. The tone I end up with goes direct to console. I always tell techs to start with a FLAT strip and adjust as they desire... the majority of techs never touch the EQ after setting it flat.. it's been that reliable.

Most importantly... what interface are you running and what drivers are you using, or are you just running the sound setup that came with the computer?

Yes, yes and yes. There are many ways to morph between clean and dirty tones with the expression pedal. The mixer, volume/gain blocks, adjusting amp volumes etc... As for the independent signal chains.. it's the same answer. They are many ways to accomplish what you are asking with the expression pedal. You can layout the footswitches in preset mode in any of the following ways.... Presets alone "Presets up / Stomps down" or "Stomps up / Presets down" "Presets up / Snapshots down" or "Snapshots up/ Presets down" "Snapshots up / Stomps down" or "Stomps up/ Snapshots down" (to access presets from this mode, simply press either bank button to display the presets until you choose one) Regardless of the preset mode you choose you can access all 8 stomps with the mode switch, and all 8 snapshots by pressing the bank up/down at the same time.

OK... I'm assuming then that you are using the LT as the computer interface. This is what I would suggest.... Insert a SEND at the end of your guitar chain, and set the MIX of the send so the signal does NOT continue to the main outputs. (ie: it only sends the signal to the send itself) Connect the SEND to your guitar amp. Your amp now gets the guitar signal, while the computer sound should still continue to the monitors. IMO... I would ditch the amp and listen to it all through the monitors, but that's just me :)

I'm glad to see you got it solved... but in your opening post it doesn't say you installed "HX Edit" (as you did on your old machine) and that is critical to the installation process. Did you miss it originally and try updating from the updater alone... because that does not work. You need all the drivers that came along with HX Edit.

No problem here with palm muting either... I'd look to the mic settings as a quick test. Many of the default cabs use a dynamic mic, 1" off the speaker. I'd recommend (at least to test) a 121, pulled about 6" back to see if the problem persists, or if it gets better. If it gets better, continue working with different mic choice/placement and the high cut.

I am surprised that the Helix does not have this feature... it's quite common on a large number of tuners. I would certainly upvote this on ideascale.

Where do all of those missing units end up? I would love to get my hands on one.... :) Yes, that's rhetorical... no need to answer unless you actually know where they all go - LOL!

Actually... my line you are responding to was a response to JimGordon quote, not to yours. I did two "quotes" and "responses"... my answer to your's was the latter part of my post... directly after your quote :) ... and if you read what I said when responding directly to your quote.... I am in agreement with that choice :) Hmmmm. "colourization"? UK? Canada? Australia? other? .... or just a spelling error?

There is no right or wrong... if you are getting tones you like - go for it! Where I have a problem with your statement is that you seem to equate the "amps preamp" as part of the power? Is it not! The power amp section of the amp is the power... ALL OF IT! Plugging a Helix directly into the power amp input effectively replaces the amps pre-amp... it will not effect the "headroom" of the amp in any way. The only thing that needs to be considered is what "level" the fx return and/or power amp is set to. Some amps will be line level, others will be instrument level. For best results, the Helix should be set to match. Your initial logic makes perfect sense. Cascading pre-amps (eg:plugging into the front end of an amp, with an amp model already in place) can be unpredictable and counter intuitive. That doesn't mean it won't work, and it doesn't mean it can't sound good.... but it can create tonal problems that (unless you fully understand what you've just done) you may not be able to correct. The problem with doing this is that you will put the tone of one amp through another. The amps will NEVER sound like they are intended when you do that because the color of your AMP is always present. Bypassing the pre-amp by going direct to the power amp input (or FX return) is a more accurate representation of the Helix models.

I'm not so sure about this... I am quite shocked at how well the EHX keyboard pedals track. Sure... you have to make an adjustment or two, and play very clean (clean as in guitar technique) but MIDI guitar has always been that way.... and it's a good habit to have anyway. This ... or license their tracking algorithm so other company's can utilize it in their systems.