codamedia

IMO... I don't think so. It's full range, and it's flat response (likely more flat response than most systems that claim to be).... it should be fine. If you are new to modeling, are you aware of the difference in how you are hearing things? Listening to the Helix through a full range cabinet is NOT likely listening to a guitar amp. It is like listening to a guitar amp, with a mic on it, coming through the full range cabinet. EG: Put your marshall in another room, put a mic on it, and put the mic through your HK Audio Linear speaker. Now you are comparing apples to apples.

If you used an amp and pedals, how would you dial in your tones? Likely by turning up the amp close to stage volume and adjusting everything until it sounds best. It is no different with a Helix. When possible, plug into the same or similar setup you would use live (I know with PA's this becomes impractical) and setup your tones at "gig volume" or as close as possible to it. FWIW... this is my method. I have a home studio, with two sets of speakers (I A/B the speakers, I never play them both at the same time) Studio grade 6.5" near field monitors Consumer grade 3 ways speakers with a 10" woofer, mid and tweeter I monitor my Helix at about 85db... this takes the Fletcher Munson curve out of play which is critical to setting up tones. re: Fletcher Munson! If you monitor too quietly you are likely to increase the highs and lows to make it sound artificially louder... this often results in a "boomy, tinny & thin" tone that disappears on a stage with the rest of the band I dial up my tones to sounds really good on each set of speakers I put on some music that I can play along with, in the style the tone was setup for - this allows me to hear the tone "in context"... Tweak tone a little as needed. If I need to drastically alter the tone, I return to step 3 to make sure it still sounds good on it's own, through each set of speakers. The tone I end up with goes direct to console. I always tell techs to start with a FLAT strip and adjust as they desire... the majority of techs never touch the EQ after setting it flat.. it's been that reliable.

Most importantly... what interface are you running and what drivers are you using, or are you just running the sound setup that came with the computer?

Yes, yes and yes. There are many ways to morph between clean and dirty tones with the expression pedal. The mixer, volume/gain blocks, adjusting amp volumes etc... As for the independent signal chains.. it's the same answer. They are many ways to accomplish what you are asking with the expression pedal. You can layout the footswitches in preset mode in any of the following ways.... Presets alone "Presets up / Stomps down" or "Stomps up / Presets down" "Presets up / Snapshots down" or "Snapshots up/ Presets down" "Snapshots up / Stomps down" or "Stomps up/ Snapshots down" (to access presets from this mode, simply press either bank button to display the presets until you choose one) Regardless of the preset mode you choose you can access all 8 stomps with the mode switch, and all 8 snapshots by pressing the bank up/down at the same time.

OK... I'm assuming then that you are using the LT as the computer interface. This is what I would suggest.... Insert a SEND at the end of your guitar chain, and set the MIX of the send so the signal does NOT continue to the main outputs. (ie: it only sends the signal to the send itself) Connect the SEND to your guitar amp. Your amp now gets the guitar signal, while the computer sound should still continue to the monitors. IMO... I would ditch the amp and listen to it all through the monitors, but that's just me :)

I'm glad to see you got it solved... but in your opening post it doesn't say you installed "HX Edit" (as you did on your old machine) and that is critical to the installation process. Did you miss it originally and try updating from the updater alone... because that does not work. You need all the drivers that came along with HX Edit.

No problem here with palm muting either... I'd look to the mic settings as a quick test. Many of the default cabs use a dynamic mic, 1" off the speaker. I'd recommend (at least to test) a 121, pulled about 6" back to see if the problem persists, or if it gets better. If it gets better, continue working with different mic choice/placement and the high cut.

I am surprised that the Helix does not have this feature... it's quite common on a large number of tuners. I would certainly upvote this on ideascale.

Where do all of those missing units end up? I would love to get my hands on one.... :) Yes, that's rhetorical... no need to answer unless you actually know where they all go - LOL!

Actually... my line you are responding to was a response to JimGordon quote, not to yours. I did two "quotes" and "responses"... my answer to your's was the latter part of my post... directly after your quote :) ... and if you read what I said when responding directly to your quote.... I am in agreement with that choice :) Hmmmm. "colourization"? UK? Canada? Australia? other? .... or just a spelling error?

There is no right or wrong... if you are getting tones you like - go for it! Where I have a problem with your statement is that you seem to equate the "amps preamp" as part of the power? Is it not! The power amp section of the amp is the power... ALL OF IT! Plugging a Helix directly into the power amp input effectively replaces the amps pre-amp... it will not effect the "headroom" of the amp in any way. The only thing that needs to be considered is what "level" the fx return and/or power amp is set to. Some amps will be line level, others will be instrument level. For best results, the Helix should be set to match. Your initial logic makes perfect sense. Cascading pre-amps (eg:plugging into the front end of an amp, with an amp model already in place) can be unpredictable and counter intuitive. That doesn't mean it won't work, and it doesn't mean it can't sound good.... but it can create tonal problems that (unless you fully understand what you've just done) you may not be able to correct. The problem with doing this is that you will put the tone of one amp through another. The amps will NEVER sound like they are intended when you do that because the color of your AMP is always present. Bypassing the pre-amp by going direct to the power amp input (or FX return) is a more accurate representation of the Helix models.

I'm not so sure about this... I am quite shocked at how well the EHX keyboard pedals track. Sure... you have to make an adjustment or two, and play very clean (clean as in guitar technique) but MIDI guitar has always been that way.... and it's a good habit to have anyway. This ... or license their tracking algorithm so other company's can utilize it in their systems.

Yes this is true... it is here I find it odd that with all the features of snapshots, this ONE item drove you to sell it :) It was fairly easy to work around... although I am happy the feature is now implemented.

I gig regularly (about 120 shows a year) and tour on occasion. I've owned my LT for a little more than a year and have not had any issues. it has been as reliable as any other piece of gear I've owned. I have an old HD500 that goes to all shows (local or tours) as a back up, and has NEVER been called to action (knock on wood). I fire it up once every couple weeks just to make sure it's still working :) My faith in the Helix is rooted in the Line 6 quality over the years. Before the Helix my HD500 was in full use for about 3 - 4 years, and before that was an X3 Live for about the same amount of time. I simply have never had any problems.

The instructions for updating the firmware makes it really clear about how important it is to update HX Edit first... If people can't see this line (below) in the instructions... surely they won't understand if HX Edit said "this also contains drivers" :) STEP 2—Updating HX Edit to 2.81 (YOU MUST DO THIS BEFORE UPDATING YOUR HELIX/HX FIRMWARE!)

I just want to add one thing to this step.... If you are on Windows... when you reach the "options page" leave everything selected. I've seen a lot of update errors posted that have been the result of users "unchecking" items they "think" they don't need. It will not hurt anything to just install it all.

Re-install the HX Edit 2.81 software. When it gets to the screen with the OPTIONS to install... just leave them all checked, it's the safest route. I've seen a lot of talk in these forum about users "unchecking" the WinUSB drivers.... that would be a big mistake. Restart your system after the install If the problem continues.... try different USB ports... even if that port has always worked in the past. Don't make an assumption like this. The HX Edit package includes many drivers that are required by Windows so it can communicate with the HX line.

The people that can answer this stuff do not talk on these forums.... but there have been hints that they are working on improving polyphonic pitch detection. If that becomes a reality (and assuming it's done really well) that could open the doors to synth enhancements and such. However.... there is no guarantee or timeline for such improvements... it is not something I would "count on". If you would like a polyphonic synth solution today or in the near future, your best bet it to continue your search outside of Line 6.

It really doesn't matter if you put one effect down there, or all effects down there. The only point of using that lower path in this scenario was to gain access to the phase inverter on the merge block. Sounds like you got that sorted out.

There is something wrong with the USB port on the Helix if what you are saying it accurate. Just like any other USB B port... the cable should lock in firmly. I assume you mean "got a USED helix".... maybe that is why the person sold it! If they were rough on it and broke the USB port then they may have thought they could never update again... pawning if off on you! A qualified tech can fix that in the heartbeat... take the unit in for service.

It should be just as snug as any printer or other computer device that uses that end. If not, the USB port might be physically broken... I don't know them to wear out so much they won't connect properly. IMO... it's time for service.

Page 41 of the HX Stomp manual... "Global Settings > Preferences > Tempo Pitch" The options are "authentic" or "transparent"... you want transparent if you don't want any surprises when changing the tap tempo, or changing the tempo via snapshots.

Sorry for the confusion... I was just suggesting that you create a single path that actually uses both paths... You don't put anything on a footswitch... you just adjust the "phase invert" on the MERGE block when needed. Try my instructions again, without trying to invoke any switching. other than what you might have as effects normally.

The update to 2.8 has very detailed instructions, and most of what you mention above is not part of those instructions. Backup your Helix with the "matching version of HX Edit". If the system is running 2.51, then HX Edit should be 2.51 Download and install the latest version of HX Edit (2.81... or 2.81.1 if it's an LT) During the Install of HX Edit, when it comes to the part where you can selection options, leave everything selected That step alone will update everything you require... drivers, updater, HX Edit... EVERYTHING. No need to download anything elese Run the current updater and follow the instructions closely. Do not Open HX Edit during the update procedure Don't panic when the Helix tells you something failed and it's entered update mode... just follow the instructions on the computer installer. The above is a stripped down version of the instructions.... I do recommend you read the full instructions, not just what I have written. https://line6.com/support/page/kb/effects-controllers/helix/helixhx-281-release-notes-r920/

What exactly are you trying to update? A Helix Controller, a Helix Rack or a Helix Floor? Your post doesn't make it clear, or I have not had enough coffee this morning :)