rd2rk

Just to clarify, since you originally asked about going to a PA (FOH) - Using Helix amps: a single amp with pre amp fx in MONO, stereo post amp fx out to dual guitar amps using their fx loop returns should not be a DSP issue. Using TWO Helix amps for end-to-end stereo will almost definitely be a DSP problem. In neither case would the FOH routing affect DSP.

I don't see any reason why you can't use the MC6 for both Songbook on the computer and Catalyst Edit and MIDI over USB on the Cat60 with the CME. Since you're going to use the computer for Songbook, you can test the Cat's MIDI by simply connecting the Cat's USB to another USB port or hub. The CME is only necessary if you're NOT using a computer or mobile device as HOST. Running any DAW should allow you to route MIDI from your MC6 to the Cat. Or you can use MIDIOX. Just use different MIDI Channels for Songbook and the Cat. The default MIDI Channel for both Songbook and Cat60 is Channel 1, so change one or the other. Yes, I use the MIDI messages defined in the Cat's manual. Whenever using MIDI and especially when controlling multiple devices/apps, you want to use a MIDI Monitor app to confirm that your controller is sending what you THINK it's sending to WHERE you think it's sending it. Some DAWs have built-in monitors, some require a plugin. What DAW do you use?

You need to connect the Cat to a computer/HOST device via the USB Port, as the Cat60 does not have a 5-pin DIN connector and your MC6 is not a HOST. If you don't need apps on the computer, the CME H2Midi Pro will do the job, and it's Amazon Prime Day sale priced now! You can also use a cell phone or iPad with a hub, just be sure to get a hub with a charger connection to keep the device charged while in use. If going the iPhone/iPad route you'll need some sort of routing SW such as AUM. Although I have a Cat100 which has a proper MIDI DIN connector, I have tested using MIDI over USB using my iPad and AUM, and it works fine. I also run the Catalyst Editor that way. Using a Mobile device vs computer also eliminates USB ground loops/noise. There's probably an AUM/MIDI router alternative for Android (DAW?) if you are so afflicted, but you'd have to research it. I don't allow Androids in my house. ;-) NOTE: I have had intermittent communication problems with my Cat100, unrelated to connection method, using any other MIDI Channel than Channel 1. That could just be a problem with my system, I haven't spent much time on it since Ch1 works for me, but it's something to keep in mind.

Yes. Stereo Balanced signal to FOH from the Main Outs, Stereo Unbalanced signal from the FX Loop to dual amps. Place the Dual IR/Cab Block after the Stereo FX Loop Block. The amp block is MONO, so anything before the amp block will be summed to MONO. You COULD use a split path with two amps for end-to-end stereo, but the main drawback to your entire plan is that you'll quickly run out of DSP and you're already down to 5 blocks with the single amp/FX Loop/IR blocks. 7cm will work, but you'd need a stereo IR/DI box after the Main Outs (which go to the amp RETURNS) to add FOH without the CAB/IR getting to the stage amps. Dual powered FRFRs instead of guitar amps would work fine.

If you're using a MIDI Controller you don't need to be in STOMP Mode to activate/bypass a FS. Just set MIDI BYPASS on that FS to a CC# and program the controller to send that CC# as TOGGLING with VALUE 0(OFF) and 127(ON). You can still assign the FS to function in STOMP MODE and use it either way. (At least, on Helix and HXS/HXSXL you can, not sure on HXFX. Experiment!) Just remember that most MIDI Controllers remember which VALUE was most recently sent UNLESS you change the CONTROLLER preset/bank. If you use the STOMP MODE FS, you'll need to double-tap the MIDI FS the next time you use it. EX - you BYPASS the block using the MIDI FS (VALUE SENT = 0). You then use the STOMP MODE FS to ENABLE the block. The next time you hit the MIDI FS it will send VALUE 127 (ON). Since the block is already ON you'll need a double-tap to send zero again.

IT'S ALIVE!

Yes, I'm sure we've all lost a lot of minutes out here in the wilds of the interwebs...

I spent another minute thinking about this after posting my elephant comment. Another minute of my life I'll never get back.

And if you've never played through the real amp in the first place... This is one of those "If a tree falls in the forest..." things that people on forums will fight to the death over while the rest of us play our guitars.

LOL! I didn't even notice that!

Your experience is atypical. Take a deep breath. UNINSTALL everything Line6 related. REBOOT. REINSTALL the latest version of HX Edit (3.82 I believe). If you're still having problems come back and provide details about your system - HW, OS etc.

@silverheadis probably right, but there's another reason. How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time. Why? It won't fit in a blender. If you COULD fit an elephant in a blender, the average guitarist would be confused by the switch layout. ;-)

Helps to know what exactly you're trying to control, but assuming that it requires a HOST (it's intended to be connected to a computer) this should work: H2MIDI Pro - CME - The MIDI Experts You could also route it through an iPad or iPhone using a a MIDI HOST program such as AUM and a hub, but if you do this, be sure to get a hub with a power connector to keep the i-thingy charged during extended use. Again, useful to know the details of your use case.

Yes. Just set the INPUT of Path 2 to MIC and use the FX on that path for vocals.

Sorry, I was on my way out and should have explained it better. When you're sending MIDI to two devices you need to specify which MIDI channel each listens on. The default BASE channel on all HX/Helix devices is Ch1. Set the ToneX to Ch2. On the Ampero (I also have one of those I use with my ToneX), when the message is intended for the HXSXL, send it on Ch1. For ToneX send on Ch2. So, Global Settings>MIDI/Tempo>MIDI BASE Channel = 1. You'll also need to set Global Settings>MIDI/Tempo>MIDI THRU = ON. You may also want to set Global Settings>MIDI/Tempo>MIDI PC Tx = OFF to prevent sending the default MIDI PC when you change presets. Though it shouldn't matter with ToneX set to Ch2 because the default PC# would be sent on Ch1, It's BEST PRACTICE to minimize extraneous MIDI traffic. Now as to the actual messages you're sending for MODE/PRESET etc. - in Global Settings>Footswitches there's settings for FS7 and FS8: "2 - FS7 Function Sets the function of Footswitch 7, but only when Global Settings > Preferences > “EXP/FS Tip” is set to “FS7.”* 3 - FS8 Function Sets the function of Footswitch 8, but only when Global Settings > Preferences > “EXP/FS Ring” is set to “FS8.” You'll need to check what's available on your HXSXL - the manual is either not clear or I missed it - but on my HXS that allows you to use the switches for BANK or PRESET or SNAPSHOT UP/DOWN or to scroll through the MODES. You can use MIDI commands to do those things, or you can use a MOMENTARY Footswitch. "For connecting an external footswitch to access the FS7 or FS8 functions, the use of a momentary (unlatched) type footswitch is recommended. Connect to the EXP1/2, FS 7/8 input while the device is powered off to avoid toggling the current FS 7/8 setting" You can connect a FS to the HXSXL EXP jack or, if that's in use by an EXP Pedal (I use mine for a MISSION SP1) you can connect the FS to the Ampero's EXP/CTL jacks and use MIDI messages triggered by the MOMENTARY FS. Depending upon what exactly you want to do, you may find using a pair of two-button switches connected to CTL1 and CTL2 a convenient way to expand the Ampero's switch complement from 4 to 8. Cheaper than chaining multiple Ampero's, but messier. If I read you correctly, you have a 2-button Momentary FS? Connect that to either the HXSXL or the Ampero with FS 7/8 configured to scroll <> the MODES, then use the Ampero Footswitches to emulate whichever HXSXL switches are required to do whatever. When I was testing all of this, I wound up just using Ampero FS1 to scroll the MODES one-way (HXSXL FS7 set to FS MODE>) and used Ampero FS2-4 to select the three options available in each MODE on my HXS. Since you'd need 4 switches for Snapshot Mode, using the 2-button switch for scrolling the MODES would work well for you and you could use the two switches to scroll the MODES bi-directionally. Anyhow, it's late, sleep now. Let me know how it works out.

Default MIDI Channel on HXSXL is Ch1. Change the MIDI Channel on ToneX to Channel 2. RTM (ToneX) to find out how. I'm not sure about your other problem. Are you using a MIDI FS? A non-MIDI momentary or latching FS? If you're trying to use Command Center to cause an HXSXL FS to send MIDI to the HXSXL you need to connect the MIDI OUT to the MIDI IN. WARNING - this will sometimes cause the device to lock up or otherwise go nuts. Sometimes it works, but...

Rename them by number. 1 YA MRSH 412 M25 Mix 01 2 YA BMAN 410 Mix 01 ... Annoying, but if it's really important to you...

Per L6 in several posts on The Gear Page/Digital and Modeling Forum - not in Native. Maybe someday as a new product. Don't hold your breath. As is their way, they are not saying much about future product plans.

My Catalyst powers the LEDs in its FS and I use the Ext Amp jack on my Helix without problems. That's not a guarantee, of course, but if you're worried about it, contact support and ask them. Nobody from L6 Support hangs out here.

No.

Yes. Assuming in all cases that the IR is ON the PC.

HXSXL will do what you want. The ir-x doesn't do much via MIDI, just stores 128 PRESETS which contain settings for Channel (1/2), Boost (ON/OFF), FX Loop (ON/OFF), IR, Presence and Thump. These cannot (AFAICT) be accessed separately, so the only messages you'll be sending are PRESET (128) calls (PC#). The HXSXL has 128 presets, each of which can be set to send (on LOAD) either the default PC# (0-127) or any PC# in that range. Each HXSXL Preset has 4 SNAPSHOTS, each of which can send a different PC#. That means that without changing the HXSL Preset (which causes a momentary audio gap) you can switch among 4 ir-x presets. The ir-x manual does not specify if internal preset switching is gapless. That's about it for MIDI control of the ir-x. Not much, but combined with the HXSXL, pretty powerful.

I read the Captor-x manual before I replied to your post. I'm sorry, but only the XLR and HP Outs are stereo. The INPUT is MONO, as is the speaker out. Unless I'm missing something, the only FX you're getting out of your amp's speaker are whatever effects are in your amp. From the Captor-x manual - "You can connect your cabinet to the SPEAKER OUT if you wish to hear your dry amp sound on stage". So, you're only using your amp to monitor your dry signal, you're using the playback system attached to your sound card to monitor your effected signal. There's nothing wrong with that but knowing the full picture would have saved me a lot of typing. I suppose that using both the dry amp and stereo effected playback system could be considered W/D/W... :-) As to your HUM problem. I use my Helix (or HX Stomp - same as HXFX but with amps) in 4cm with my Catalyst. No, I don't do that. I'm pretty sure that the cables should be wired XLR>TS, not TRS. Some other POSSIBILITIES: First, your amp. Especially if it is a TUBE amp, it can HUM. Most any hi-gain amp HUMS. Second, make sure that everything from your HXFX to your amp to your playback system and computer/DAW is connected to the same filtered surge/power strip and keep in mind that "switching" power supplies (aka wall warts), ESPECIALLY when used in combination vs using an isolated multi-output power supply, are notoriously noisy. Check to see that there are no major appliances or rheostats on the house circuit that the power strip is attached to. You can TRY using a Hum-buster type device between the Captor and HXFX OR between the HXFX and your soundcard OR between the soundcard and powered speakers. Try in all three locations to see which works best. There's no point using more than one in your application. I use these at several points in my "studio". They're cheap, work pretty well and have both 1/4" and XLR connectors: Amazon.com: Pyle Compact Mini Hum Eliminator Box - 2 Channel Passive Ground Loop Isolator, Noise Filter,AC Buzz Destroyer, Hum Killer w/ 1/4" TRS Phone,XLR Input/Output, Uses 1:1 Isolation Transformer : Musical Instruments

Hopefully, by now you've either solved the problem (please post the solution) or opened a support ticket (please post the L6 reply).

De nada! You get to keep track of and post all of those informative links...