rd2rk

Foro equivocado. Nadie de Line6 monitorea este foro. Aquí es donde vas si te tomas en serio las sugerencias de cambios y mejoras: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index Antes de publicar una nueva idea, busque para ver si ya se ha propuesto. Si 100 personas votan sobre la misma idea presentada de 20 maneras diferentes, ¡parece que solo a 5 personas les importa! Además, publique sus ideas una a la vez. Yo, por mi parte, NUNCA voto por múltiples sugerencias combinadas. Translation by Google

Would depend on his amp. I use it because my amp's pre gets very nice cleans, edge of breakup, hard rock (with Helix OD's). Heavier sounds work better with Helix amps/preamps. To get a full amp sound with IR to FOH using a send to your amp return before the IR/XLR, you'd need to use a full Helix amp. That works if it sounds good with your RW poweramp. If you're using a Helix preamp, that won't get it. The method suggested by @silverhead (*) will work, unless you want to get your RW poweramp sound to FOH so that the FOH sound matches your stage sound as close as possible. The only way I know of to do that is a load box, preferably a decent Reactive Load box such as the Captor. * I like to run FX in parallel, so I hate to waste a split like that, and I'd want my RW poweramp sound going to FOH. If you go that way you should get one with IR capability (Captor-X) because, although you COULD take the line out from the load box back to a Helix return to get the IR, that adds noise and latency.

If he's using 4cm, that doesn't get a poweramp emulation out to FOH.

You started out asking a question related to getting your sound from Helix to wherever, assuming what the best way to do it would be. Your assumptions were incorrect. Based on your limited description of your gear, I answered your question with the simplest, most practical ways to do it, allowing you to maximize the Helix's capabilities (no wasted DSP, no extra noise and latency inducing loops) in all of the configurations you mentioned. RTM. Watch some of the 10,000 YouTube videos on the subject of using Helix. People on this Forum are happy to answer specific questions, but you need to acquire the basic knowledge on your own.

All you want is everything. Instead of screwing around with your presets: If your amp has a cab emulated DI, just use that. If your DI has no cab emulation get something like the Mooer Radar. If your amp doesn't have a DI or you don't like the cab emulation and it can't be turned off, get a load box with IRs such as the Two Notes Captor-X. With any of the above solutions whatever comes out of your amp goes wherever you want it to. Done deal.

I don't so much mind doing the legwork, I've learned a lot that way. But when they dribble out the needed details like it's state secrets, like they know what I need to know to solve the problem they have no clue how to solve, so I have to do the research multiple times, then they move the goal posts, don't follow directions and then get mad at me because they don't like my sense of humor (not even considering that I might've simply told them to F#*K OFF!).......and, in the end, they become enraged when I give them the page number and tell them to RTFM! Yeah, there's days I feel like I'm getting too old for it. Fortunately, my neighbors are reasonably tolerant of brief 100db bursts of "Highway to Hell"! OP - don't mind us, we're just blowing off steam, not necessarily directed at you....unless you are, in fact a TROLL!

I just had a look at the Spider manual. If it has the cab emulated line out, you might not even need the split and IR.

Just for giggles, take a trip over to TGP, to the Digital and Modeling Forum. Locate posts by @rubytopaz. He is a great player, and has more gear than God. He's currently using a pair of PC212+'s and a pair of L2's. He gets MONSTER sound! IIRC, he used to use a pair of Spider Valves with the L2's. That's your rig x 2! In the past I've paired my Tweaker15-112 (3-12AX7/2-6v6) combo with my HR FRFR112, and, turned up just enough (not to overpower the Tweaker) it makes the little combo sound HUGE - way too much for my apartment. You might try pairing your Spider Valve amp with the L2. Take a split at the end of your signal chain and add a 412 IR and EQ for the L2. You might be surprised at how big it sounds!

Follow the signal - Input>FX>Helix Amp/Preamp>FX>Output>Spider Poweramp/cab. No extra Send/Return Blocks needed, no added latency incurred. If you want time based FX AFTER the Spider Poweramp and BEFORE the Spider cab, now you're talking adding an Attenuator, and the difference between the two FX placements is, IMO, not worth the cost and complications of the attenuator. Unless you MUST have the sound of the Spider Poweramp included for recording purposes and, really, it ain't that special that you couldn't use something like the Two Notes WOS (Poweramp sim and IRs) in the DAW with Native or any other Post FX you want. Using attenuators gets complicated fast. And expensive.

Your Helix is, by default, 48k. Check Global Settings>Ins/Outs to be sure that's how it's set. If you DL a pack that has the option, choose 48/24. The two folders under each mic selection are TS (tube screamer engaged) or NO TS (no tube screamer). Start with NO TS. The most commonly used mic is the SM57. From the manual (good idea to read it, as well as the Redwirez primer I mentioned): Load a God’s Cab IR - Try 57_1_inch_edge_pres_3.wav as a starting point. Once you've learned a bit about mics and mic placements, you'll have a better idea what to do next. I'm going to repeat my recommendation to DL the FREE York Audio MB212 pack. Rather than running haphazardly through a pack which requires KNOWLEDGE, you'll be able to start with the MIXES. Justin (the YA creator) has a great ear. These might be all you need for your first year or two of using IRs :-) . EDIT: Sascha and I don't agree on very much :-) , but if you noticed, we both recommended that you have a whack at the stock cabs. If nothing else, playing with the different cabs and mics will give you a general idea how different mics and distances affect the sound of a cab.

That said, you can start with the free Allure IRs. Marshall amp? '67 Brit Greenback. Panama? '90s Cali V30. Of course, you COULD try the stock cabs. Even though the tone junkies will say they suck, lots of people like them. Play around with the Dual Cab Block, different cab combinations, mics and distances. If you listen with your ears, as opposed to reading the 10,000 opinions you'll get on the forums, you just MIGHT save yourself a whole lot of money and actually have time to play yer guitar! Because beyond the Allure Pack, you're entering the rabbit hole of IRs. Some of the thousands of free IRs are good. Some of the major vendors offer free sample packs. Rewirez offers a free Basketweave (Marshall GB25) that's nice, and they have a free basic "How to Use IRs" primer that you can learn a lot from. I've tried a lot of IR vendors. While I like Redwirez, their packs are really meant for experienced users who have a background in mic'ing cabs ITRW. If you're into METAL, the Ownhammer packs are very popular with the METAL crowd. I like the York Audio packs. To my ears, much more "articulate" sounding. They offer a free basic MB 212 pack you can try. As stated above, try the stock cabs. DL the Redwirez "How to" primer and mess around with the stock cabs before you start throwing money at IRs. I bought dozens of packs (many THOUSANDS of individual IRs) that fill a rather large directory on my HD, and mostly never get used.

4cm wiring: Guitar>Helix Input>FX Loop1 Send>Spider Input>Spider FX Send>FX Loop1 Return>Helix L/Mono 1/4" Out>Spider FX Return 4cm Signal Path: Input Block (Guitar)>FX>Amp (no cab) or Preamp>FX Loop1 Block>FX>Output Block Assign a FS to BOTH the FX Loop Block AND the Amp Block. Save Preset with one ON/one OFF. This configuration allows you to use EITHER the Spider preamp OR the Helix Amp/Preamp Block. The FS toggles the configuration. You get the advantage of using 100% of your rig's capabilities. If you're like most of us, you'll find that some Helix full amps sound better with a tube power amp than the Preamp versions. If you're convinced that you'll NEVER use the Spider Preamp, then you don't need 4cm. WIRING: Guitar>Helix Input>Helix L/Mono 1/4" Out>Spider FX Return Signal Path: Input Block (Guitar)>FX>Amp (no cab) or Preamp>FX>Output Block You may find it necessary to assign the BIG KNOB to the 1/4" Out if the Master on the Spider doesn't actually control the Power Amp Output when the FX Loop is in use. My Egnater's Master does, my Engl's Master didn't. EDIT: In Global Settings>Ins/Outs, set the various Helix Ins/Outs to INST or LINE, whatever sounds best. Some amps need one or the other for quietest operation.

Wrong forum. Nobody from L6 monitors this forum. This is where you go if you're serious about suggestions for changes and improvements: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index Before posting a new idea, please search to see if it's already been proposed. If 100 people vote on the same idea presented 20 different ways, it looks like only 5 people care about it! Also, post your ideas one at a time. I for one NEVER vote for multiple combined suggestions. Your suggestion has been made multiple times, so be sure to do a search for LFO and vote for all of them!

Most of the delay is coming from the BT headphones. Sorry, but unless you get a proper wireless guitar IEM rig, you're not going to be happy with the latency. The cheapest solution in that category is probably the Xvive U4, <>$230. And not stereo.

Like it or not, a bug like this requires significant resources to fix, and resource allocation happens on a priority basis determined by customer demand. I prefer chocolate, but while I feel for the 5 mint pistachio fans out there, and hope that at some point resources get allocated to find and fix this bug, I wouldn't hold my breath. If this bug severely impacts your situation, you need to do what @nuggs_1did. Sell your Helix and get the modeler whose command center addresses all of your needs. (see below for possibly viable alternative) BTW @nuggs_1, which modeler did you settle on? It's really easy, when you've never seen the code or, in fact, aren't even a BASIC level programmer, to not be able to understand the complexity of a coding problem. As to why the feature was implemented if nobody cares, not all development ideas turn out to be winners. MAYBE if it worked, it would become a wildly popular feature. Apparently, in retrospect, L6 doesn't think so. Sucks, I get it, but it is what it is. In the meantime, there are tools, such as the BOME MIDI translation SW and HW, that can take most any MIDI command and convert/expand it to do most anything you want it to. If you can't find an alternative to Helix that does the job, it's something to think about.

BTW and FWIW - PUBLIC NOTICE! The "Uber Guru Pineapple" thing is something that the Forum SW does based on # of posts and likes. IT IS NOT PART OF MY AVATAR! TBH, I wish that I could go back to "I know a thing or two", as this is not the first time that some nasty individual has used it as an insult when I tried to help and he didn't want to hear it.

We're not making fun of his issue, we're making fun of his attitude. Read my first post and his reply, and tell me he doesn't need an attitude adjustment? We've done our level best to help him with his issue, here and in other threads - to which end you've contributed what, beyond letting us all know what a caring and compassionate individual you are?

If you count the number of people who've commented on it in this thread, you have a pretty accurate idea how many of us care. Not many. That's likely why it hasn't been fixed. All we can really do is open another support ticket. It becomes a battle of who blinks first. TBH, I don't really care beyond "Hey, it's broke, fix it!" I'm more concerned with getting them to update and fix the problems with the Powercabs and L6 Link. We pick the battles that concern us most. Good Luck!

In the original MIDI specs, certain CCs were "reserved" in an attempt to standardize how it was implemented in the hardware of the times. At least, I think that's why they did it. Maybe something in the library you're using? Here's the list: 0 Bank Select (MSB) 1 Modulation Wheel 2 Breath controller 3 = Undefined 4 Foot Pedal (MSB) 5 Portamento Time (MSB) 6 Data Entry (MSB) 7 Volume (MSB) 8 Balance (MSB 9 = Undefined 10 Pan position (MSB) 11 Expression (MSB) 12 Effect Control 1 (MSB) 13 Effect Control 2 (MSB) 14 = Undefined 15 = Undefined 16-19 = General Purpose 20-31 = Undefined 32-63 = Controller 0-31 64 Hold Pedal (on/off) 65 Portamento (on/off) 66 Sostenuto Pedal (on/off) 67 Soft Pedal (on/off) 68 Legato Pedal (on/off) 69 Hold 2 Pedal (on/off) 70 Sound Variation 71 Resonance (Timbre) 72 Sound Release Time 73 Sound Attack Time 74 Frequency Cutoff (Brightness) 75 Sound Control 6 76 Sound Control 7 77 Sound Control 8 78 Sound Control 9 79 Sound Control 10 80 Decay or General Purpose Button 1 (on/off) Roland Tone level 1 81 Hi Pass Filter Frequency or General Purpose Button 2 (on/off) Roland Tone level 2 82 General Purpose Button 3 (on/off) Roland Tone level 3 83 General Purpose Button 4 (on/off) Roland Tone level 4 84 Portamento Amount 85-90 = Undefined 91 Reverb Level 92 Tremolo Level 93 Chorus Level 94 Detune Level 95 Phaser Level 96 Data Button increment 97 Data Button decrement 98 Non-registered Parameter (LSB) 99 Non-registered Parameter (MSB) 100 Registered Parameter (LSB) 101 Registered Parameter (MSB) 102-119 = Undefined 120 All Sound Off 121 All Controllers Off 122 Local Keyboard (on/off) 123 All Notes Off 124 Omni Mode Off 125 Omni Mode On 126 Mono Operation 127 Poly Mode

No, you can re-use MIDI CCs, same as Footswitches, they just show as Multiple with the number of assignments.

Assigned 4,5,6,7 to my FCB, assigned those CCs to FX Blocks, works fine. Arduino glitch?

Three ways. In Snapshot Mode, press the two left FS buttons to go UP Banks, the two right buttons to go DOWN Banks. Then press the corresponding button for the preset you want. I can never hit them both at the same time, very annoying. Get a two button switch (Moskey Dual Switch is cheap and works great) and set it to switch between modes. Preset Mode is one down (LEFT) of Snapshot Mode. Get a MIDI switcher. You can use it for all sorts of things, depending how much you want to spend and how much floor space you can afford it. I have an FCB1010/UNO pedalboard. Works great, infinitely flexible (even more so with UNO2), big, ugly, cheap and virtually indestructible.

True about the carpet thing. I picked up a 12x24" shelf from Home Depot to put mine on. In HX Edit, in the "Edit" pane at the lower right, if you click on "Bypass/Controller Assign", it displays all of the assignments.

It helps when you ask questions if you specify which device you're using - Rack, Floor, LT, HXS, HXSXL, HXFX. That said, on my Floor it always assigns WAH to EXP1/Toe and Volume to Exp2/Toe. It works the same way on LT. You can reverse the settings manually, I think, though I can't think of a reason you'd want to. On my HXS it assigns WAH to EXP1/FS5 and Volume to EXP2/FS5. FS5 works like the Toe Switch on Floor and LT, toggles WAH/Volume. Get an external two button FS to use FS5 (Moskey Dual switch is cheap and works great). Or get a Mission pedal with Toe Switch built for use with L6 devices. I forget the model#. Occasionally, the BYPASS assignment gets out of sync with the actual device BYPASS condition (always user error). For instance, you select Exp1 and you see the POSITION Parameter changing as you operate the pedal, but the device assigned to Exp1 remains bypassed. If that happens, just manually turn the affected device ON/OFF as required. I suspect that all of the other devices that do not have built-in Exp pedals work the same way as the Stomp. DL the manual for your device if I didn't cover it here. There are Global Settings for how the Exp pedals function. For instance, on the HXS, for the above automatic assigns to work correctly, FS5 FUNCTION needs to be set to "Stomp 5". There may be other settings required. I've never had the problem you're seeing, so it's possible I set all those things two years ago and don't remember doing it! Nobody likes to hear it, but, RTM! If you've followed the directions in the manual and the Exp pedals still won't auto-assign. perform a Factory Reset.

The interface and routing functions are virtually identical. If I were planning my rig, and knew I needed a rack-mount mixer/AI, ALWAYS, I'd still get the Floor. One piece vs three. FWIW, I use my Floor with a Scarlett 18i20 - guitars, bass, eDrums, synth, backing tracks/recording (Reaper/Windows laptop) - and still have room for vocals if someone comes over who can sing :-). I use my iPhone for phone calls, and the flashlight, so I can't comment on anything in the Apple orchard. I suggest that you DL the manuals for both devices and see for yourself if one or the other is better suited to your specific needs.