rd2rk

As a bedroom only player, I would say either get a set of near-field (studio) Monitors, or get a second PC112+ or (what I just did) trade the PC112+ for a PC212+ - the stereo is AWESOME! PA speakers are designed to fill a large room. IOW, to project the sound out into an audience. The separate hi/lo drivers require a certain distance to properly coalesce. The PC series is designed to better produce the "AITR" (amp in the room) effect, and the coaxial speakers combine the hi/lo frequencies without needing the distance to coalesce. IOW, they'll sound better in your room. When you're ready to join a band, they'll (PC series) work fine (unlike Studio Monitors) in a rehearsal space or small venue, and the XLR Out allows you to take a UNITY output to FOH - the PC's Volume knob doesn't affect that signal, so you have full control over your stage level w/o causing a headache for FOH. As for w/d/w, I think it's over-rated. It might sound GREAT in your basement, but it's not worth the effort/expense in a live band setting. Much like wide-spread stereo (dual cabs), it sounds good by itself, but not so much with a band. The PC212+, OTOH, can sound HUGE in a small space (startlingly good separation), and with a band will just sound like a great amp with lots of movement in the sound. Not to mention the logistics of transporting, setup and teardown of a w/d/w or dual cab + amp rig. FWIW - I live in an apartment. I have a FRFR112 that I got before I got the PC112+. I MUCH preferred the PC112+, and LOVE my PC212+, which sounds GREAT even at apartment level (60-75db).

Boilerplate alert! Wrong forum. This is where you go if you're serious about suggestions for changes and improvements: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index Before posting a new idea, please search to see if it's already been proposed. If 100 people vote on the same idea presented 20 different ways, it looks like only 5 people care about it! Also, post your ideas one at a time. I for one NEVER vote for multiple combined suggestions. This HAS been requested before.

If you're sending a Value of 001, that's the problem. Try sending a Value of 1. IOW - 0 thru 7 = Setlists 1 thru 8.

Can you see it sending properly in your Midi Monitor? Are you combining the Bank Change with some other simultaneous Midi Message?

Either Stomps or Snapshots will work, but there's not a separate "Hotkey Mode".

Depends where you have the cab in the signal chain. If it's at the end, just pull it down to create a second Path, pull down the newly created Mixer Block so that you've got two Output Bocks, then set the one with the cab to XLR and other one to 1/4". This method works best if you do quick changes between Presets or send to FOH while monitoring through your amp on stage.. You can also set a FS or a Snapshot to Bypass the cab.

Boldly going where others fear to tread! BRAVO! Keep us informed! Having never had a problem with Native, I'm VERY curious what might cause this!

I know what you're saying - here's the difference: Pedal designed to be used with real amp - Guitar>Pedal>Amp Same pedal with Helix Loop - Guitar>Helix (AD Conversion)>Helix send (DA Conversion)>Pedal>Helix Return (AD Conversion) See? NOT the same at all. Some pedals don't care, some do. Some people can hear the difference, some can't.

BE A TRENDSETTER! OPEN A SUPPORT TICKET! Then get back to this thread and post the solution. Your fellow Helixers will praise you for all time!

Some pedals sound good in the loops - mods, delays, reverbs, and not ALL of them either. FX Loops were originally designed for use with Rack Units. Most of the pedals that people put in FX Loops these days were designed to be out front, between the guitar and the amp, and some just sound better in the loop than others. This is true not only of Helix, but FX Loops on real amps, too. Distortions get the most complaints. They're meant to be out front, and that's where they sound best.

Did you notice that he's using an iPOD, not an iPAD? The Camera kit works (I think) because the iPAD and iPHONE are full on computers, and act as USB Hosts to the Helix/HXS. Are you saying that you KNOW that the iPOD will work the same way? Not wanting to argue, I don't KNOW, and I WANT to KNOW!..... :-)

If the signal in your DAW is way low, gain knob will boost it. Typical DAW Input signal should be around -18db to allow headroom for transients and post processing.

Computer...ac..ting....fla.key... Must...d.o...fact...ory re....set. :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) Then install HX Edit v3.0. Then Install FW v3.01. If that doesn't work, open a support ticket.

Yes, I did. My bad. Don't know the solution then, I've never had the slightest problem with Native in Reaper or any other DAW. Just lucky I guess!

Try re-installing HXEdit v3.0. That will reinstall all of the drivers. Don't forget to reboot after the install.

Another thought - USB ground issues can sound a bit like feedback, a high pitched whine. If there's any kind of ground loop, PC/HXS/2i2 plugged into different wall sockets, not using a proper EMI/RFI filtered surge strip, these might cause it. Using a passive USB hub, or a powered hub with a noisy power supply. Try moving the USB connections to the computer around. Just spit-balling at this point......

1 - me typing too fast :-) 2 - good 3 - see attached screenshot 4 - good Gain should probably be at 0, as that is usually Unity (signal in=signal out). Turn that up as necessary if the signal is too weak. Anything else happening that was not previously mentioned? Otherwise, unless you've got the Volume Knob on the 2i2 maxed and it's actually feeding back in the usual way, I can't think of what could cause it.

The camera kit probably won't work, since it's not a USB Host. That requires an actual computer, like an iPhone or iPad. If you MUST use an iPod, you'll probably need a small mixer.

With Helix Floor there's no direct way to simply and globally connect an iPod. You either connect via a pair of S/R and place the Loops at the end of the signal chain (in each preset), or use a separate Path with the S/R as Input (in each preset), or you take the Input over USB from a computer, or you use an iPhone Camera kit from the iPod into the Helix USB, if an iPod can utilize the camera kit. Ask Apple. Yes, everybody hates that there's no AUX IN.

Are you connecting using 1/4" or XLR? Are those Outputs set (Global Settings>Ins/Outs) to Inst or Line? Is the level switch on the 2i2 set to match the Global Setting? Is the Direct Monitoring Switch on the 2i2 set to ON? I don't have a 2i2, I have the 18i20, and have no such problems.

L/Mono Out collapses the stereo signal to Mono. No you won't lose half the power. If you're using Multi as the Output Block, the XLR Outs will still be Stereo. Obviously, stereo effects will now be Mono from the PC112, but with one cab, you can't really have stereo anyway, unless you have a PC212. The Stereo effect of the PC212 is AWESOME!

If you mean an assignable LFO, then no. Go to Ideascale, search for LFO, then vote for ALL the requests by users who didn't bother to search before posting.

If you have an HX Stomp, then in Global Settings>Ins/Outs set RETURN TYPE to AUX IN. That bypasses the signal chain straight to the Outputs.

Think of it like this. Your FX section is the HXFX. each of it's 8 Snapshots PER PRESET can select a different Preset on the BIAS HEAD, and have a different configuration of the HXFX parameters for that HXFX Preset. Each Stomp FS can call a SINGLE Preset on the BIAS HEAD. Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to decide how YOU want to use all of this power. Do you want to have your HXFX in Stomp Mode or Snapshot Mode? If Stomp Mode, you'll need to use two Footswitches to toggle presets on the BIAS HEAD, and there you are, TWO possibilities vs EIGHT in Snapshot Mode. What CAN'T you do in Snapshot Mode that requires that you be in Stomp Mode instead? When you need to change HXFX Presets, you need to go to Preset Mode UNLESS you know that you'll ALWAYS be going to this preset from that, and you're willing to give up ANOTHER FS in Stomp Mode, or a Snapshot in Snapshot Mode, to do it. OR you could use an additional external MIDI controller to emulate whatever mode you don't want to have to be in on the HXFX. This is POWERFUL STUFF. VERY customizable to most anybody's preferences. No matter how good their tech writers, there's NO WAY that everything that's possible could be covered in the manual. That's one of the reasons for this forum. But YOU are the only one who can determine your needs, we can only help you get there. You WILL need to read, and maybe re-read, the section of the manual pertaining to Snapshots. I STRONGLY believe that using Snapshots is the BEST way to accomplish your goals with the BIAS HEAD.

"Amp In The Room" (AITR) Most people who get hung up on this are actually saying that they prefer the sound of their tube amps over modelers. Powercab is an AMP. If you play it in a room, that's AITR. As codamedia said, it's just a different sounding amp. Forumites have all sorts of opinions. Opinions are subjective (DUH!). Some people need 5 eqs and 3 compressors to get a sound that's pleasing TO THEM. Some people are just fine with the amp's tonestack. The Helix cabs have default hi/lo cuts at 80hz and 8khz. A good IR shouldn't need them. The only time I use an eq block is to get a specific sound. As mentioned, the Global eq is a situational tool. You get to the gig, it's a really dead room and all your presets sound dead. Global eq to the rescue! I agree, Global eq should be available on L6 Link. Go to Ideascale, search "Global eq" and vote for it. Vote for ALL of the requests posted by all the people who didn't bother to search before posting. As DI said in the referenced thread, it's like adding a Block to every preset, uses DSP. I'd still like the option. Look up Jason Sadites on YouTube. He has (IMO) the best vids on "dialing in" Helix. I've heard that about those. If those are ACTIVE pups, then the Helix Input Impedance feature won't work properly. You should try setting it (Input Impedance - in the Input Block of your presets) to 1M Ohm, which is what they would encounter going direct into an amp. The default is AUTO, which could have unexpected results with active pups and certain FX. Also, make sure the batteries in the guitar are always fully charged. I hate active pups.