rd2rk

Add DD's point about using a phantom power blocker.

If you want to set the amp channel when you load the Helix preset, load the preset, then in Command Center, set up an INSTANT COMMAND to send the appropriate PC#. Be sure to use the MIDI CHANNEL that the amp listens on. Don't forget to save the preset. If you want to switch channels within a preset, set up a pair of footswitches to send PC#1 on one and PC#2 on the other. You can use both INSTANT COMMANDS and footswitches in a single preset. INSTANT COMMANDS are also sent when selecting SNAPSHOTS. Be aware, however, that there is currently a number of problems with sending midi using SNAPSHOTS. Multiple instances and variations of the INSTANT COMMANDS are sent when a SNAPSHOT is selected. The LAST messages sent are correct, but different devices respond differently to receiving multiple rapid-fire messages, so that there may be a "stutter" effect, or unpredictable results, YMMV. This bug is (hopefully) being fixed in the upcoming 2.6 update.

BRAVO! ROCK ON!

CC#61 is the Helix Looper STOP command. Nobody knows WHY it's sent (I've asked), and there's no way to prevent it. Usually, unless the receiving device/app is configured to use that CC, it has no effect, but maybe the Torpedo has a problem with that. No, just checked the manual, nothing configured to use that CC by default. Supposedly, the upcoming 2.6 update has many midi fixes. Maybe this will be one of them. Anyhow, that shouldn't cause a problem, Torpedo should just ignore it.

Something else to try, for test purposes. Instead of using an Instant Command, set a FS to send a Toggling CC#27 with values of 127/000. Does that work? What results did you see in MIDIOX?

When you send a BYPASS Instant Command, are you also sending anything else? Are you using a PC or MAC? If PC, download MIDIOX. It's a midi monitor (there's a similar program for MAC, I forget what it's called). Is the Helix sending anything other than the CC that you expect it to send?

If I understand what you're trying to do: In some Helix presets, you want to use the Torpedo CAB (Helix cabs off). An Instant Command in those Helix presets sends a PC# to the Torpedo CAB. This works fine, Torpedo loads specified CAB preset. In some Helix presets, you want to use the Helix cabs. In these Helix presets an Instant Command sends a CC#27 with Value 0 (OFF) to BYPASS whatever Torpedo CAB is loaded (in SETTINGS on the Torpedo, is CC Receive set to ON?). This is NOT working. You know that because.......

?????? Must be a language barrier thing, I've no idea what that meant......

Part One: Have no idea what's going on, I'd have to look at the preset, and since I have the Helix floor, not HXFX, I can't do that. If you attach the preset to your reply, maybe someone who has the HXFX will look at it for you. Part Two: Yes, you are correct, this is a known issue. L6 support tells me that they are looking into it, and may have it fixed in this soon-to-be-released update. At least, on the full Helix. Don't know about the HXFX. The bottom line (for now) is that the last (correct) set of values sent are the ones that your device will ultimately respond to. At least in my tests (using two VST plugins on separate channels) there was no stutter. Check out this thread, where I went through a similar process: End result/conclusion - snapshots and midi are problematic. Hopefully, the next update will have it all sorted.

I'll look at the video when I get a chance. In the meantime, since they're different presets, why not send them to me (attach to reply)?

When I was testing it for you, once I had the snapshots saved properly, no amount of random button pushing changed the messages sent. Of course, I'm not one of those machines that switch mfrs use to press buttons 10 million times. If you're SURE that this is happening, and can reliably reproduce the behavior, get support on the phone and see what they think. I know that they're aware of some anomalies in the way that midi messages are handled in snapshots, maybe it's a known issue. It would be good if you could document the problem using a midi monitor, so that you could send a screenshot or text file for them to look at. Good Luck!

You might also want to check out the Helix thread over on Gearpage. https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/line6-helix.1586637/

What did support say when you contacted them?

If you're good with your stage monitor level being controlled from the FOH board's monitor mix - everybody gets the same mix, too bad if you can't hear yourself, because if you ask the sound guy (you if you're doing your own sound) to turn you up in the monitor somebody else says you're too loud - you're good. I use a two channel active monitor. The board's monitor mix goes in one channel, the 1/4" out from the Helix goes in the other. That way, If I'm too loud in either the FOH or MONITOR mix, the sound guy can do whatever he wants with my signal, I control MY level in MY monitor with the big knob, and it doesn't affect the level that goes to the board. EVERYBODY is happy. The only thing I'll add to the way I described setting up the Helix in my previous post is that the XLR/LINE OUT (when not controlled from the big knob) is a pretty hot signal. Depending on your board, you MAY have to set the XLR OUT to MIC if it's too hot on LINE.

Assuming that the XLR goes to the FOH board, and the 1/4" goes to your stage monitor, in GLOBAL set the big knob for 1/4" only. Let the sound guy handle your FOH level while you use the big knob for your stage level. S/N ratio on your stage monitor should be good with your amp up to it's max safe/no noise level, and big knob set to wherever you need it for your monitoring needs.

Have you tried contacting support? Even out of warranty, I'm sure they would at least be able to answer your question.

They're frequently found on Gearpage in the Helix thread.

Do a search on this (Helix) group for DT770. Lots of discussion.

I've found that, where snapshots are concerned, the logical assumption is usually wrong! Also... once you've got it working and thoroughly tested, SAVE backup copies, in case your working version gets a wild hair.....

What I'm seeing is that your controllers are not saved identically across all of your snapshots. For instance, in BASS ABLETON, using FS5 as an example, in Snapshot HW Clean, it sends A#8. In the other 3 snapshots it sends C#1. In CLEAN ABLETON, Snapshots CLEAN and HW CLEAN send A#8, but the other two send C#1. Go through and make sure that all controllers in each snapshot in both presets are set identically. You need to save each snapshot individually before moving to the next one.

Would be best if you could attach the two presets in question....

Come on you guys, give us a break! This is a thread about a subject of interest to a lot of people, and you've hijacked it and turned it into a personal pi$$ing contest. Have some respect for the rest of us!

The only way to get true "amp in the room" sound is to buy a guitar amp. With ANY FRFR cab, you're getting the sound of a mic'd amp and guitar cab reproduced through a Full Range cabinet, and Flat Response is relative. So the answer to your question is, an FRFR speaker IS an amp in the room. It creates sound waves (pushes air) which, with sufficient volume, will flap your pants and damage your hearing. If it sounds good to you with your modeler, then it's the right amp for you. Some people like Fender amps, some swear by Marshalls, or Boogies or VOX or Diesel or.....the fact is, these days, most of the people in the audience have only ever heard those amps through recordings, or as mic'd through a PA. Live in a small club they can't tell the difference between a JCM800 and a Triple Rectifier, just that it's TOO LOUD! That's why the way of the future is modelers, IEMs and amp-less stages. Your 2000 watt FRFR is probably going to be used as a personal monitor if you're not using IEMs. If I had $1000-1500 for an FRFR, I'd spend it on a good IEM rig and get used to it. Meanwhile, my $300 Headrush FRFR-112 sounds REALLY GOOD and, fortunately, my neighbors seem to think so too (and they like my playing).....

I have the FRFR-112. It sounds VERY GOOD. It replaced an Alto TS-210, which wasn't bad. For the price, the FRFR-112 is a good bet. I don't currently have the money to buy the Powercab for comparison, but if the money tree drops some leaves on me I definitely will. Here's a link to a long and sometimes contentious discussion of FRFR speakers which includes details of my back and forth with Headrush support over the difference between the FRFR-112 and the identically spec'd Alto TS312. Draw your own conclusions. To repeat, the FRFR-112 sounds VERY good. YMMV, caveat emptor.

For the benefit of anyone else who might have this problem, what was the solution?