rd2rk

Fireside - Your initial question implied that you already knew how to use both the 4cable and direct to power amp methods: "some of my tones go through my pre amp and others go straight to my power amp" While displaying that you actually understood neither: " some of my tones go through my pre amp and others go straight to my power amp using the four cable method." Straight to the power amp requires only a single cable from guitar to POD input, and another from the POD 1/4" out to the PHYSICAL amp's fx return. 4cm is used to to place the POD fx (such as noisegate/distortion/overdrive) before the PHYSICAL amp's preamp,and other POD fx (such as delay/reverb) between the PHYSICAL amp's preamp and the PHYSICAL amp's power amp. This is why we asked for more detail as to your goals. You're right - there is no simple answer. But when you implied that nobody KNOWS the answer, it came off as rather insulting to those of us who try hard to help novices such as yourself to understand what is a rather complex piece of kit that provides a near infinite variety of possible solutions for a near infinite variety of possible goals. If you haven't already solved the problem (getting CONTROL of the infinite possibilities) yourself, we're here to help, but you'll need to make an effort to be more precise about your goals.

@pianoguyy AH! He's referring to the defaults that Line6 hard-coded as initial settings when an amp is first inserted into a preset. @donniyedge Pianoguyy is right, they can't be changed and, unlike many computer amp sims, you can't save a "Settings" file. BUT... you could create a blank preset template with the amp/cab settings you like, and use that as a starting point when you create presets using that amp....Are either of us understanding what you're asking here?

As I understand it, it's called a "Global EQ" because it applies to ALL presets. ON for all or OFF for all. It's intended use is to accommodate differences in room acoustics that you might encounter from night to night, or even differences in crowd size on a given night.

First, what do you mean by "get control"? For what purpose do you require what degree of control? As stated here repeatedly, "If it sounds good, it is good". There's neither a "RIGHT" way, nor any such thing as "Best Practice". The possibilities are virtually infinite. Therefore you must consider - just how much time do you wish to expend to exert this control vs actually making music? Say you have decided that you MUST have all of your presets going direct to the power amp. Yet, you have presets that sound perfect using the 4 cable method. You might try copying the preset that you wish to convert, twice, in adjacent locations. Then remove the fx loop from one version, and A/B them until you've tweaked the conversion to your satisfaction. Sounds tedious? You betcha'! FWIW, here's my experience. I am, at this point in my life, primarily a home/amateur player. I'm using a Blackstar HT5C, which uses a 12BH7 tube in the power amp section. That's a hi-fi tube, so it doesn't color the sound as any of the popular guitar amp power tubes would do (not to say it doesn't color it, just doesn't make it sound like a particular type of guitar amp). I never liked the preamp sections of the amp, especially the overdrive channel. The HD effects before the clean channel (4 cable method) sound OK, but after much experimentation I've found that the HD amps, full versions, with cab emulations, studio direct mode, sound GREAT straight to the power amp and 12" stock speaker! But, let's just say that, as suggested by pianoguyy, you're running a 5150. Personally I find that, while I can get some cool sounds out of the HD's PV Panama emulation using the above method, it DOES NOT sound like a 5150 (to my ears - YMMV)! If I had a 5150, I'd use the 4 cable method when I wanted to sound like a 5150, and go straight to the power amp for other sounds. In other words, if you've got a classic amp, use it with the 4 cable method for the sounds that made it famous, and go straight to the power amp for the rest! However, to get back to what I said at the beginning, in a virtual world of virtually infinite sonic possibilities, why do you need what level of control, and at what price?

Liked the first one better. More "edge" (some call it sizzle?). Think the second one was the amp. I run my HD (combo power amp mode) through the power amp section of a 5 watt Blackstar, which uses a neutral (neither el34 nor 6l6) sounding 12BH7 hifi tube, and, to my ears, I think it gives me the "edge" without the "sizzle". Part of that is no doubt the 12" guitar speaker vs the more full range sound of the Alto. The first take sounded a lot more like when I run the HD thru my 6" KRK's in Studio Direct mode.

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Long press VIEW - Knob 1 = FS MODE. Set this to ABCD. As Pianoguyy said, you'll need to assign pedals FS1-FS4 to the fx you want them to control in EACH preset. Long press ENTER. Knob 1 sets the FS assignment. If you're using presets you've downloaded from Customtone you might want to check the setting for each block in the preset, in case the author has already set some of them. Don't forget to SAVE the preset when you're done.

The stock HD seems to have more edge, the 2 notes sounds dull to my ears.

Sorry, pre coffee reply. Note that I've modified my post to reflect that it sends CCs from FS5-8. But that's wrong too. Here's the confusion. In either mode, on preset selection, it'll send ONLY CCs set to TOGGLE, from any FS#. In neither mode will it send simple CCs, Alternate Program Changes (like if you want to change a preset in a second device or SW), Bank Changes or Notes. I've attached (I think) screenshots of the results in both modes. Other strangeness. the order it sends is (assuming all set to TOGGLE): Exp1 Exp2 Program Change FS1-4 LPR EXP TOE FS5-8 TAP I suppose that makes some sort of sense, in that it mirrors (after the Program Change) the physical layout of the switches, But why in the world would anyone want to send the Expression Pedal values BEFORE the Program Change? I'd love to know the designer's reasons for that. A purpose that my small brain can't imagine? Always happy to learn something new! Also, you can't set the TOGGLE value, you're stuck with 000/127. If the parameter you want to change has 3 settings, and you need the middle one (I use 0/64 to toggle the Processing Mode in Bidule), you're SOL. That, and the one-CC-per-pedal press limitation, which prevents doing Preset Prev/Next or any other momentary type operations (TAP on an external device?) sort of shoots it down for my ideal purpose - to eliminate the need to bring my FCB1010 - less stuff to carry and all. Oh well. Wonder if the MIDI capability will be expanded in Helix (I WANT! I WANT! I GOT NO MONEY! I GOT NO MONEY!)?

Sorry guys, maybe I'm not on the same page as you, but... I'm looking at this in MidiOx. It doesn't matter what mode I'm in - ABCD or 5-8. In ABCD mode: If I'm in Bank 1 and I press Footswitch A, the POD sends PC#0 and the CC# that I randomly assigned to FS5 in preset 1A. When I press Footswitch B it sends PC#1 with the CC#s that I randomly assigned to FS5 and FS6 in preset 1B. The above is a simple example which you should be able to quickly duplicate. In order to use the POD as a controller for Amp Sims, I put together a whole setlist of presets to call presets in the Amp Sims, turning on/off various effects in those presets using the POD's FS1-8 assignments, and using a noise gate (low dsp) in each block on the POD, saved on or off, so that the on/off status of the effects in the Amp Sim would be reflected. by the LEDs on the POD. Works like a charm. What am I not getting in what you're trying to do?

If I understand you correctly, you want to send on/off messages on alternate presses of a single footswitch, and have the LEDs reflect the on/off status. Assuming that your controlled device requires a CC Value of 0 for ON and 127 for OFF, pick a block, put something in it that won't affect your preset's sound (if that matters - I use a noise gate for low dsp), turn it OFF, set your CC# to TOGGLE with a Value of 127 and SAVE the preset. Or, with the device ON set the Value to 0, it works either way. Just remember that the first time you press a switch it will send the opposite number. If the Saved Value is 0, it'll send 127. Be sure to SAVE the preset with the pedals in view mode set accordingly (Saved Value 0 = ON, 127 = OFF). Remember that the Saved Value is what the POD sends when you select the preset. Internally, If you save the preset with the device ON, the next time you press the corresponding button it will turn OFF regardless of the saved value. Keep in mind that in FS Mode 5-8 you have 8 switches that will send MIDI the way you've set it up, without Program Change messages, UNLESS you press one of the Bank pedals, in which case pressing pedals 1-4 will send MIDI as saved, but 5-8 will send (If assigned,else nothing for that entry): Exp 1 CC#/Value before Preset Change or Max Saved Value Exp 2 CC#/Value before Preset Change or Max Saved Value Above might be dependent on which pedal is active at the time of the Program Change I only have one pedal, so I can't test it. Since Exp 1 is active, it's sending the Max Saved Value for Exp 2 PC# Default Fixed PC# for that Bank/Pedal Looper Toe Switch Saved Value FS5 Saved Value FS6 Saved Value FS7 Saved Value FS8 Saved Value TAP Saved Value So, in Bank 15 Pedal A sends PC# 56. If your controlled device has 5 slots/efx/parameters and if you want your controlled device's Preset to turn ON Slot 1 and OFF Slot 2, then (Assuming that your controlled device requires a CC Value of 0 for ON and 127 for OFF), set Pedal 5 on the POD to toggle the requisite CC# with a saved value of 0, and set pedal 6 to toggle that requisite CC# with a saved value of 127. To get the POD's LEDs to reflect this condition, set the POD device that's assigned to Pedal 5 ON and the device assigned to Pedal 6 OFF, then SAVE the preset. Now when you select that preset, the POD will send PC#56, the CC# assigned to Pedal 5 with the Saved Value of 0 and Pedal 6 with the Saved Value of 127. The POD will display POD Pedal 5 device ON reflecting the status of the corresponding external device, and likewise for POD pedal 6. Now I have a MIDI induced headache. Any questions?

To use MIDI for effects loop bypass: 1. No set up is required. From MIDI channel 1 (default) or the channel that was used to send Program Change messages in the section above (if different from MIDI channel 1), simply send a Control Change #85 message with a value of 63 or less to bypass the effects loop or a value of 64 or more to enable the effects loop. The HD sends PC# 000 (1A) to 063 (16D) automatically when you select a preset. Not sure if that has anything to do with your problem, but try setting a preset's Midi (say, 1A) to send a CC#085 with a value of >63. That should enable the fx loop on the amp. Of course, setting that up on EVERY preset in every setlist will be a PITA, but there doesn't seem to be a way to effect that sort of change across the board.

Is there any truth to the rumor that the reason why string life is shorter under Windows 8 ( and presumably will be even shorter under Windows 10 ) is that THE EVIL ONE (Bill Gates) bought controlling interests in all of the world's biggest string manufacturers?

You're asking a lot here. If there's anyone out there (besides me) who knows how to do this they're probably thinking "Dude, RTM!" First - "Dude, RTM!" Second - In GR5, is your audio/midi interface set up properly in the configuration area? You play your guitar, noise comes out, the MIDI configuration tab shows your interface as "ON"? Now what, EXACTLY, do you want to be able to do in GR5? How, EXACTLY, do you envision the POD being used to do what in GR5? Once you can answer those questions CONCISELY, I'll be happy to help you make it happen. GR5 has a very well done and flexible MIDI implementation (I have all the major midi-controllable amp sims), and the POD has a most flexible MIDI implementation for controlling it, but with maximum flexibility comes much complexity in the diversity of options available. I need to know your specific expectations, or this discussion could be endless.

Jumpered FX loop at end of chain, assign a button, turn up return as required.

Like any other effect, you put it anywhere you want.

All I get when I go to that link is PLEASE ROTATE DEVICE TO VIEW PORTRAIT PERSPECTIVE I guess all of you who actually saw this stuff have tablets? I just have this clunky old monitor attached to my clunky old desktop!

Mean person or happy troll?

Not to make assumptions, your 4cm setup is: Guitar -> POD Input POD FX Send -> Amp Input Amp FX Send -> POD FX Return POD 1/4" Mono Output to Amp FX Return Somewhere in the POD signal chain you have an FX Loop Block. Terminology: Your Amp has two CHANNELS, A and B. These are controlled by a footswitch (NOT THE POD). They each have a separate VOLUME control. In Bank X of your POD you have PRESET A and PRESET B. These are Identical, but you want one louder than the other. Unless I've misunderstood your need, just add something like a Compressor or EQ to the end of the signal chain and set it for a higer output than you'd have without it. Then you'd only need the ONE preset! I'm sure there's lots of other ways, that's just what I'd try first. As for the noisegate, it usually goes at the beginning of the signal chain, right after the guitar, but put it anywhere it works for you. Or, as Ratatats suggested use more than one.

OK BarneyBrown, in .zip form, 16x4. If this works, thanks to davidb7170!

I don't remember where this came from, and it's pretty old so the new amps aren't included, but give it a try! Well, apparently I'm "Not permitted to upload this kind of file". It's a .5xs (setlist) file. If anyone knows how I can get this file to the OP, or where it originated, let me know. 16 x 4 Full Amp.5xs

As for preventing the problem in the first place, a bit of Velcro on the UNDERSIDE of the unit, top and bottom, a couple loops around the cable, voila! A custom cable routing system!

Jason - as long as your hard drive is on a 3.0 port, and the POD is on a separate 2.0 port (not a hub port), then there should be no conflicts. However, I doubt that's what is causing your BSOD problem. BSOD's are usually caused by bad memory or misbehaved driver issues. ASIO problems generally cause audio engine crashes in DAWs, and sometimes a DAW will freeze the system, but BSODs are a different matter. Did you try the system reset as suggested in the Tom's Hardware link I sent you? You won't really know what adjustments to make to your system till you identify the true culprit. Another thing to do would be to make sure that your system is optimized for audio. There's several good articles out there on doing that, Steinberg and Cakewalk have good ones that I know of, and you might find something on the KVR Audio site.

Jonas - You didn't give much info about your system. I went looking for info on "Dell XPS 64" and near as I can tell, there's no such animal. Dell XPS means "extreme processing system". What is the exact model? Processor? Laptop or desktop? What, if not ASIO, are you using for audio drivers? Here's a link that might be of help: http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-1653072/fix-bad-pool-header-error-windows.html

I have a Blackstar HT5C - that's the not-metal, no reverb, 1-12" combo. It has 2 channels, clean and overdrive, and a knob that varies the "character" of the OD section beween English (Marshall) and American (Mesa). I run the POD into the Blackstar using the 4 cable method. Pre fx loop I've got a noisegate, tube compressor, tube driver and script phaser. Post fx loop I've got an analog chorus, digital delay and plate reverb. That's the main setup I use. I've got another setup for very strange sounds, and a third for old styles, surf and whatnot. I think it sounds great used like that. With that setup, you've used up all of the available fx blocks, and can put whatever L6 amp you like in the remaining amp block and, by switching off the fx loop, the 1/4" output takes the whole POD signal chain into the amp's power amp section. I think, for my purposes, it takes too much tweaking to get the L6 amps to sound all that much better than the Blackstar. The 9000 downloadable user created tones on Customtone (that's just the ones users of the HD500 and HD500X have made) occasionally yield some nice sounds, and are very helpful for learning from other people's tweaking efforts.