
rd2rk
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Everything posted by rd2rk
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I certainly hope so! Without broccoli in their signal chains, American children will no longer be able to create healthy Rock'n'Roll!
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Will there be a Helix on the Helix? Who owns the rights to the name.....
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That is correct. Trick is to set the CC values for what you want your device to do when it loads. If you want something to be ON, set that CC with the ON value.
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Save the preset ON THE HD. Then switch presets, switch back, and then check the settings ON THE HD. Some people find HD Edit indispensable, I find it annoyingly quirky. Also, if you're going to send output from MidiOx, please go to OPTIONS/DATA DISPLAY and un-check MONITOR OUTPUT:HEX so that we can have human readable data to look at!
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Duncann - Yes, I too thought the ordering of the messages sent was rather odd. From Program Change on it simply mirrors the physical layout of the board, and since it'll only send the one type of message (toggling CC), the order seems designed so that you can view the entire array of buttons as a 10 space pedalboard. Including the Looper and TAP buttons in that view is problematic, as the Looper button continues to activate the Looper function, and they can't be set up in the same way as the FS buttons in the previously mentioned faux bi-directionality scenario, so best to look at it as an 8 space pedalboard (FS1-8) with a toe activated expression pedal (or 2). However, for the life of me I can't figure the utility of sending ANY messages BEFORE the Program Change. Anyone from Line6 got any clues on the engineering logic behind that?
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Maybe we're not talking about the same thing. First, the MIDI signals I'm talking about are sent from the HD preset you're changing TO, not the one you're changing FROM. Second, The HD preset you're changing TO has to have a MIDI command saved to at least one FS in the preset for it to work. There's nothing automatic about it, except for the hard wired PC# for that setlist position, which there's no way to PREVENT from being sent. Third, the only type of MIDI command the HD will send when switching TO the preset (other than the hard wired PC#) is a TOGGLING CC. Fourth, if I'm correctly reading the transcription of the messages you're getting from ReaControl, it's not even showing the hard wired PC#, which is ABSOLUTELY sent when you press the button. Maybe there's some configuration setting in ReaControl that you're missing? I'm not just testing a theory with a monitoring tool. I specifically set this up to use with my many amp sims, to duplicate the way the FCB1010 with UNO works in Stompbox Mode. That is, when loading a preset (in an amp sim such as Amplitube or Guitar Rig), you can turn the preset's effects ON/OFF in any configuration you like AS THE PRESET LOADS, then control the effects live, all the while having the ON/OFF status reflected by the LEDs on the board (additional setup steps required) AS THOUGH you've got bi-directional communication going on. This works. I know it does, because I USE IT everyday! Might I suggest that you try actually setting up a preset on the HD as I've described, and testing the results with MidiOx? It's FREE..... Better yet. I just uploaded the "Tone" to Customtone. It's called "Test MIDI" and it's in the POD HD500X area. You may still need MidiOx to properly test it, but you're halfway there! If you decide to try MidiOx, when the program opens you need to do two things before you try the preset: 1) When the Monitor screen opens it will display "Opened Midi Input". On the menu go to OPTIONS/MIDI DEVICE. Highlight your MIDI interface and click OK. The Monitor screen will say "Closed Midi Input" then "Opened Midi Input" 2) On the Menu go to OPTIONS/DATA DISPLAY and uncheck MONITOR OUTPUT: HEX. That will cause MidiOx to display in human readable numbers instead of Hex.
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If the Helix MIDI implementation functions like the HD, the user programmable MIDI settings (saved per preset, not global) only affect external devices. Internally the unit always sends whatever it is that it needs for it's own function.
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Using MidiOx (or the MIDI Monitor in Bidule or the VST MIDI Monitor that I plug into Sonar, Live9 or Cantabile), in ABCD mode, Preset 7D, with all pedals, footswitches, looper buttons etc MIDI set BLANK (on the HD,MIDI Channel [knob 1 in MIDI setup mode] set to NONE blanks all FS settings) except for FS1 which is set to Toggle CC#001 with a Value of 0, pressing FS D in Bank 7 to select Preset 7D sends the default value of PC#27 AND CC#001 with a Value of 0. If you get a different result using that setup, then we're operating in different dimensions. Now, maybe you're using Line6 Demo presets or something, and they've pre set the MIDI values to what you're getting. But if you configure it as I described - all but one FS BLANK, and the one FS set to toggle a CC#, selecting the preset WILL return the default PC# and the ONE CC# that you configured with the saved value (0 or 127). If you set ALL the FS values BLANK, you'll get ONLY the default PC#. I never use HD Edit, as I find it annoyingly quirky to the point of uselessness.Have you actually looked, on the HD itself, at what's in the MIDI settings for the preset you're testing? Reading over, I apologize if I sound testy. It's been a LONG day.
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When you press a preset button, it sends the PC# hard coded to that button. It also sends whatever CC#s you have assigned to the other buttons in that preset. So, if your amp can be switched using a CC#, then you should be able to assign the CC# needed to switch the amp to, say, button 1. Set it to Toggle with the value needed to make the change {just assign the one button, unless you need the amp to do other CC controllable stuff at the time of loading the preset.). Since you're not actually using the assigned button, the POD will always send the assigned value and, since the MIDI configuration is saved with the preset, you can move it around with no problems. If, however, your amp requires a PC# to switch then you're S.O.L., since it won't send a second, user defined PC#.
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G.A.S. aside, I've already decided. 6 months from now this forum will be filled with opinions, the initial bugs will mostly be worked out, and there'll be sufficient stock in the supply chain. I'll get a Helix from Sweetwater and, if it sounds as good as BIAS and S-Gear, I'll keep it and sell the HD. Simplicity and true zero latency rules in the outside world. If not, it goes back! Meantime I'm using (at home) a hybrid setup with the HD, BIAS, S-Gear and an i5 laptop. The sims are loaded into Cantabile and controlled by the POD and a Korg nanoKontrol (S-Gear). I've figured out how to simulate the FCB1010/UNO Stompbox mode setup, where the HD's LEDs mimic bi-directionality, reflecting the status of the FX in either Amplitube or TH2, before or after BIAS and S-Gear, as required. Works good, sounds good. Pop in an instance of EZDrummer, I'm a virtual one man band (might EZKeys be in my future? Another G.A.S. attack! When will the blighters let us be?)!
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Why is the MIDI PC# relevant? Are you trying to control an external amp sim? Or trying to control the POD from an external controller? Or....?
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Correct.
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Cruisinon2 - Exactly the point! If the designed to do a million things board were optimized to do one thing only, it seems to me that there's plenty of space in that big old HD500X case to put that ipad board. So why isn't the HD500X more powerful? two main reasons: 1) development/production cost vs profit per unit sold x # of units sold. I'm guessing that there's a lot more ipads out there than PODS, and that they cost lots less to produce. Consider the Fractal AXE II. It's fanboys'll tell ya it's the holy grail of guitar sound. And it costs, what, 5 times what a POD costs? Yet, I'll bet that BIAS or S-Gear could give it a run for the money and, combined with Amplitube and TH2 for pre/post fx, and the cost of a quality computer, still be cheaper. 2) Intended purpose. When I'm listening thru headphones, or mixing with a DAW, the computer amp sims sound SOOO much better than the POD, and there are so many more very affordable options available for fine tuning the sound. But would I take that rig to a live show? Not if I'm being paid, and not without my POD for a backup. Computers are fragile (think of the drunken biker who wants to dance on the stage with a full pitcher in his hand...), fickle (how good is the wiring in YOUR local bar), and expensive (the stage mgr is shouting "Hurry up and get off! the next act goes on in 13 seconds!" Oh damn, where'd my computer get to?).My POD, on the other hand is one single, dependable, practically indestructible and relatively inexpensive piece of gear. And all of that sonic subtlety that the the computer sims are capable of? WASTED in that awful acoustic space on a gyrating crowd of drunks. Live gigs (for most of us) are a brute force affair. Crank it up and kick a$$! The POD is MORE than sufficient to that task! To sum it up, the laws of physics bow to the laws of economics and the practical realities of performance take precedence over the virtual reality of the studio/bedroom. Different tools for different jobs. As ever it was and always will be!
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POD as FX ONLY 1) Guitar to POD Input>POD FX1>POD FX2>NO POD AMP>1/4" Mono Out>FS60 Input>FS60 Power Amp>FS60 Speaker POD as FX ONLY 2) (4cm) Guitar to POD Input>POD FX1>POD FX2>POD FX LOOP BLOCK(with or without POD amp)>POD FX Send>FS60 Input>FS60 Pre Amp>FS60 FX Send>POD FX Return (back to FX LOOP BLOCK)>NO POD AMP>(FX LOOP BLOCK COULD ALSO GO HERE(with or without POD amp))>POD FX3>POD FX4>POD 1/4" Mono Out>FS60 FX Return>FS60 Power Amp>FS60 Speaker Either setup allows tone control from the FS60 Preamp, with additional tone controls depending on the POD FX chosen. Add a POD Amp in either setup (either before or after FX Loop Block) and you now have additional Tone Control from the POD's Physical Amp Rotaries (on the board). Add Physical FX between Guitar and POD input, AND/OR POD FX Send and FS60 Input, AND/OR FS60 FX Send and POD FX Return, AND/OR POD 1/4" Out and FS60 FX Return.....Depending what Physical FX we're talking about, that gives you that many more Tone Control Possibilities (and gain staging headaches). Now, you might be able to run the Guitar into the FS60 Input, then out the FS60 FX Send to the POD with an FX Loop Block first in the chain, then POD FX, then out the 1/4" Mono to the FS60 FX Return....I say MIGHT because I've never tried it that way. Heck, maybe there's other ways to do it. However, in all of these possible scenarios, consider that the more STUFF you put between your guitar and your speaker, the more NOISE you're inviting, the more potential gain staging problems (EVERYTHING has a GAIN control, and we haven't even mentioned the POD's Mixer gain and Master Volume), and the more considerations like "if I change the tone on this thing, how does it affect the next thing", and thus down the line. Also, one might just work better with your amp. If it sounds good, ROCK OUT! Consider also that I haven't mentioned ONE actual control setting. Above are simply routing suggestions and considerations. EXPERIMENT! HAVE FUN! DRIVE YOURSELF STARK RAVING MAD! And read Meambobo's excellent guide to the POD: http://www.foobazaar.com/podhd/toneGuide/ I'm sorry that there's no simple answer. Kinda like life......
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Fireside - Your initial question implied that you already knew how to use both the 4cable and direct to power amp methods: "some of my tones go through my pre amp and others go straight to my power amp" While displaying that you actually understood neither: " some of my tones go through my pre amp and others go straight to my power amp using the four cable method." Straight to the power amp requires only a single cable from guitar to POD input, and another from the POD 1/4" out to the PHYSICAL amp's fx return. 4cm is used to to place the POD fx (such as noisegate/distortion/overdrive) before the PHYSICAL amp's preamp,and other POD fx (such as delay/reverb) between the PHYSICAL amp's preamp and the PHYSICAL amp's power amp. This is why we asked for more detail as to your goals. You're right - there is no simple answer. But when you implied that nobody KNOWS the answer, it came off as rather insulting to those of us who try hard to help novices such as yourself to understand what is a rather complex piece of kit that provides a near infinite variety of possible solutions for a near infinite variety of possible goals. If you haven't already solved the problem (getting CONTROL of the infinite possibilities) yourself, we're here to help, but you'll need to make an effort to be more precise about your goals.
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@pianoguyy AH! He's referring to the defaults that Line6 hard-coded as initial settings when an amp is first inserted into a preset. @donniyedge Pianoguyy is right, they can't be changed and, unlike many computer amp sims, you can't save a "Settings" file. BUT... you could create a blank preset template with the amp/cab settings you like, and use that as a starting point when you create presets using that amp....Are either of us understanding what you're asking here?
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As I understand it, it's called a "Global EQ" because it applies to ALL presets. ON for all or OFF for all. It's intended use is to accommodate differences in room acoustics that you might encounter from night to night, or even differences in crowd size on a given night.
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First, what do you mean by "get control"? For what purpose do you require what degree of control? As stated here repeatedly, "If it sounds good, it is good". There's neither a "RIGHT" way, nor any such thing as "Best Practice". The possibilities are virtually infinite. Therefore you must consider - just how much time do you wish to expend to exert this control vs actually making music? Say you have decided that you MUST have all of your presets going direct to the power amp. Yet, you have presets that sound perfect using the 4 cable method. You might try copying the preset that you wish to convert, twice, in adjacent locations. Then remove the fx loop from one version, and A/B them until you've tweaked the conversion to your satisfaction. Sounds tedious? You betcha'! FWIW, here's my experience. I am, at this point in my life, primarily a home/amateur player. I'm using a Blackstar HT5C, which uses a 12BH7 tube in the power amp section. That's a hi-fi tube, so it doesn't color the sound as any of the popular guitar amp power tubes would do (not to say it doesn't color it, just doesn't make it sound like a particular type of guitar amp). I never liked the preamp sections of the amp, especially the overdrive channel. The HD effects before the clean channel (4 cable method) sound OK, but after much experimentation I've found that the HD amps, full versions, with cab emulations, studio direct mode, sound GREAT straight to the power amp and 12" stock speaker! But, let's just say that, as suggested by pianoguyy, you're running a 5150. Personally I find that, while I can get some cool sounds out of the HD's PV Panama emulation using the above method, it DOES NOT sound like a 5150 (to my ears - YMMV)! If I had a 5150, I'd use the 4 cable method when I wanted to sound like a 5150, and go straight to the power amp for other sounds. In other words, if you've got a classic amp, use it with the 4 cable method for the sounds that made it famous, and go straight to the power amp for the rest! However, to get back to what I said at the beginning, in a virtual world of virtually infinite sonic possibilities, why do you need what level of control, and at what price?
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Liked the first one better. More "edge" (some call it sizzle?). Think the second one was the amp. I run my HD (combo power amp mode) through the power amp section of a 5 watt Blackstar, which uses a neutral (neither el34 nor 6l6) sounding 12BH7 hifi tube, and, to my ears, I think it gives me the "edge" without the "sizzle". Part of that is no doubt the 12" guitar speaker vs the more full range sound of the Alto. The first take sounded a lot more like when I run the HD thru my 6" KRK's in Studio Direct mode.
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From the Model Gallery: Dynamic Delay Made popular by the T.C. Electronic® 2290 Dynamic Digital Delay. While you play, the Dynamic Delay keeps the volume of the echoes turned down, so that the echoes don’t overwhelm what you’re doing.
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Long press VIEW - Knob 1 = FS MODE. Set this to ABCD. As Pianoguyy said, you'll need to assign pedals FS1-FS4 to the fx you want them to control in EACH preset. Long press ENTER. Knob 1 sets the FS assignment. If you're using presets you've downloaded from Customtone you might want to check the setting for each block in the preset, in case the author has already set some of them. Don't forget to SAVE the preset when you're done.
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Sorry, pre coffee reply. Note that I've modified my post to reflect that it sends CCs from FS5-8. But that's wrong too. Here's the confusion. In either mode, on preset selection, it'll send ONLY CCs set to TOGGLE, from any FS#. In neither mode will it send simple CCs, Alternate Program Changes (like if you want to change a preset in a second device or SW), Bank Changes or Notes. I've attached (I think) screenshots of the results in both modes. Other strangeness. the order it sends is (assuming all set to TOGGLE): Exp1 Exp2 Program Change FS1-4 LPR EXP TOE FS5-8 TAP I suppose that makes some sort of sense, in that it mirrors (after the Program Change) the physical layout of the switches, But why in the world would anyone want to send the Expression Pedal values BEFORE the Program Change? I'd love to know the designer's reasons for that. A purpose that my small brain can't imagine? Always happy to learn something new! Also, you can't set the TOGGLE value, you're stuck with 000/127. If the parameter you want to change has 3 settings, and you need the middle one (I use 0/64 to toggle the Processing Mode in Bidule), you're SOL. That, and the one-CC-per-pedal press limitation, which prevents doing Preset Prev/Next or any other momentary type operations (TAP on an external device?) sort of shoots it down for my ideal purpose - to eliminate the need to bring my FCB1010 - less stuff to carry and all. Oh well. Wonder if the MIDI capability will be expanded in Helix (I WANT! I WANT! I GOT NO MONEY! I GOT NO MONEY!)?
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Sorry guys, maybe I'm not on the same page as you, but... I'm looking at this in MidiOx. It doesn't matter what mode I'm in - ABCD or 5-8. In ABCD mode: If I'm in Bank 1 and I press Footswitch A, the POD sends PC#0 and the CC# that I randomly assigned to FS5 in preset 1A. When I press Footswitch B it sends PC#1 with the CC#s that I randomly assigned to FS5 and FS6 in preset 1B. The above is a simple example which you should be able to quickly duplicate. In order to use the POD as a controller for Amp Sims, I put together a whole setlist of presets to call presets in the Amp Sims, turning on/off various effects in those presets using the POD's FS1-8 assignments, and using a noise gate (low dsp) in each block on the POD, saved on or off, so that the on/off status of the effects in the Amp Sim would be reflected. by the LEDs on the POD. Works like a charm. What am I not getting in what you're trying to do?
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If I understand you correctly, you want to send on/off messages on alternate presses of a single footswitch, and have the LEDs reflect the on/off status. Assuming that your controlled device requires a CC Value of 0 for ON and 127 for OFF, pick a block, put something in it that won't affect your preset's sound (if that matters - I use a noise gate for low dsp), turn it OFF, set your CC# to TOGGLE with a Value of 127 and SAVE the preset. Or, with the device ON set the Value to 0, it works either way. Just remember that the first time you press a switch it will send the opposite number. If the Saved Value is 0, it'll send 127. Be sure to SAVE the preset with the pedals in view mode set accordingly (Saved Value 0 = ON, 127 = OFF). Remember that the Saved Value is what the POD sends when you select the preset. Internally, If you save the preset with the device ON, the next time you press the corresponding button it will turn OFF regardless of the saved value. Keep in mind that in FS Mode 5-8 you have 8 switches that will send MIDI the way you've set it up, without Program Change messages, UNLESS you press one of the Bank pedals, in which case pressing pedals 1-4 will send MIDI as saved, but 5-8 will send (If assigned,else nothing for that entry): Exp 1 CC#/Value before Preset Change or Max Saved Value Exp 2 CC#/Value before Preset Change or Max Saved Value Above might be dependent on which pedal is active at the time of the Program Change I only have one pedal, so I can't test it. Since Exp 1 is active, it's sending the Max Saved Value for Exp 2 PC# Default Fixed PC# for that Bank/Pedal Looper Toe Switch Saved Value FS5 Saved Value FS6 Saved Value FS7 Saved Value FS8 Saved Value TAP Saved Value So, in Bank 15 Pedal A sends PC# 56. If your controlled device has 5 slots/efx/parameters and if you want your controlled device's Preset to turn ON Slot 1 and OFF Slot 2, then (Assuming that your controlled device requires a CC Value of 0 for ON and 127 for OFF), set Pedal 5 on the POD to toggle the requisite CC# with a saved value of 0, and set pedal 6 to toggle that requisite CC# with a saved value of 127. To get the POD's LEDs to reflect this condition, set the POD device that's assigned to Pedal 5 ON and the device assigned to Pedal 6 OFF, then SAVE the preset. Now when you select that preset, the POD will send PC#56, the CC# assigned to Pedal 5 with the Saved Value of 0 and Pedal 6 with the Saved Value of 127. The POD will display POD Pedal 5 device ON reflecting the status of the corresponding external device, and likewise for POD pedal 6. Now I have a MIDI induced headache. Any questions?