rd2rk

Trying to get this working in Cakewalk reminds me why I stopped using Cakewalk years ago. How are you getting Cakewalk to accept MIDI over USB from your LT? I can get it to see MIDI from the DIN ports through my Scarlett, but not over USB from my Floor. Takes seconds to get both working in Ableton or Reaper. As for controlling the Transport, IIRC, that requires ACT. NOT going there ever again. Ableton/Reaper - again EZ PZ. Although I am curious how you're getting Cakewalk to see MIDI over USB, I'm afraid your best bet is to try the Bandlab/Cakewalk forums. I say "afraid" because that forum was another reason I dumped Cakewalk.

If you flip through the speaker emulations with the PC Edit app open you'll see that speakers are set to different levels. This is to accommodate the fact that L6 models everything with an ear towards real-world accuracy. Different speakers have different efficiencies, and this keeps the output levels <> even. Best practice not to mess with those levels. There should be no need to when using the PC+ with Helix. The "US Small Tweed" is the Champ. NOT a very high output amp. I use a Gain Block at the end of my chain for a Lead Boost of +3db, then set the Channel Level so that the PC+ input is in the amber range only when I hit the Lead Boost switch. To get that with the Champ (testing for this reply) I had to dime the Channel Level. That was with amp drive at 5.5 - much higher than that the Champ's bottom end gets flubby. In Reaper the input was hitting -12db which would leave sufficient headroom for post processing of the recorded track. This was with the PC+ Direct Out set to MIC Level, which is what most FOH expect from an XLR. If I was recording it I'd lower the Channel Level on the Champ to get <> -18db. See below. That should not be too hot for a decent sound tech/board to handle. BUT... if you do get one of THOSE techs, keep in mind that if you turn down the Channel Level (or the Helix Output Level with the BIG KNOB - I normally leave that dimed or disabled = UNITY/0db Output level) to make them happy it's not going to kill your tone. That whole green/amber thing is actually about noise floor, not tone, and the Helix/Powercab s/n ratio is plenty high enough that the small adjustment you'd need to make is not going to suddenly introduce massive noise to your signal. When you're considering this stuff you need a reference. All DAWs have Input meters, most have LUFS meters (google it). You never want the Input meter to get anywhere near 0db. That's DIGITAL DISTORTION territory. VERY BAD!. You always want to leave headroom for post processing. L6 recommends an input level of -18db when using Native, and that's a level that I've seen recommended elsewhere, too: Recording Levels: Digital Recording | Should you be Tracking at -18 dBFS? (decibelpeak.com) Hope this helps.

I think the HD400 and the (PYLE) PHE300 are made in the same Chinese factory with different branding. Actually, when I looked it up today on Amazon I noticed that the PHE300 is $14 (I paid $19 in 2016!) and the identical HD400 is $29. The PHE400, which has both 1/4" and XLR is the same price as the less endowed HD400 and the Morley MHE, which is identical to the PHE400, is $99! Shop carefully!

If I'm understanding this, what you're seeing is a MOMENTARY CC. On PRESS it sends CC#120 Value 1; on release it sends CC#120 Value 0. If the BB is doing different things each time, it's keeping track internally. The attached preset example shows how to do this. Footswitch 1 is the active FS. hoppmyers1.hlx

I have so many USB devices connected that modding USB cables is not really practical. I Just use these: Amazon.com: PYLE-PRO Compact Mini Hum Eliminator Box-2 Channel Passive Ground Loop Isolator,Noise Filter, AC Buzz Destroyer, Hum Killer w/ 2 1/4-Inch TRS Input and Output for 2 Mono /1 Stereo Signal - PHE300 : Musical Instruments Or these: Amazon.com: Pyle Compact Mini Hum Eliminator Box - 2 Channel Passive Ground Loop Isolator, Noise Filter,AC Buzz Destroyer, Hum Killer w/ 1/4" TRS Phone,XLR Input/Output, Uses 1:1 Isolation Transformer : Musical Instruments Back when I only had a couple of USB devices in the audio realm, I tried a USB isolator. Made it worse and cost more than the Hum Eliminators.

No. You need a proper mixer to do that.

Always remember the +. The PC112+ and the PC112 are two different animals. But it's not so much the capabilities that using Helix adds, since there's nothing you can't do with the PC112+ and other modelers if you have a MIDI controller. It's about the convenience of doing those things being integrated into Helix vs requiring MIDI otherwise.

Yes, that's the way it works, I think to allow headroom for the external processors. Anyhow it's not a flaw, it's a strategery.

Just overwrite it with your backup. You don't have a backup? Um... Before you start re-creating your lost presets, RENAME the setlist something other than USER1. After you've created a new preset, backup the setlist - SETLIST>EXPORT. Now create another preset. Backup. Repeat 128 times. Auto-Save would be nice, but we do what we gotta do. My backups are in my DOCUMENTS folder which is automatically backed up to OneDrive - "The Cloud". Backup to my backups.

The post you're replying to is six years old...

It sounds like you've done everything I would do to troubleshoot it. Did you test it at the shop that serviced it to verify that they actually fixed it and it works? Either way you're entirely at the mercy of the shop, who can claim it worked when you picked it up and you broke it. Basically, you have two choices. Take it back to the shop and see what they say. Contact support and see what they say. Unfortunately, I have seen many horror stories about local shop repairs. If mine ever breaks it will go to Line6 for service. I had a problem with mine shortly after I bought it (2016) and I had it back in under a week. If you're gigging, you DO have a backup, right? If not, believe it or not, you CAN gig with a lowly Spider or Mustang or Katana, all available used most anywhere (except maybe the Outback) CHEAP and probably available to rent until you get it back. Good Luck!

After the update completed, did you perform a factory reset BEFORE you restored your backup? Perform a factory reset then repeat the restore.

BUT... you can't disable the HF driver to use just the speaker.

At this point I think they see it as a mistake they'd rather just forget about. "So long, and thanks for all the money!" There's a good chance that, even if it's still selling, the new Fender FR12 could be its death knell. If they would just do a final bug fix update then I could at least sell my PC212 in good conscience and MAYBE get a decent price for it. OR it might then be good enough to keep. Sadly, I expect that after my passing this thing will wind up at Goodwill with my worn out recliner.

In CommandCenter, select the switch above expression pedal 1 (which probably shouldn't be used for anything else) and assign it the required MIDI message or Hotkey "Space". Repeat for each Snapshot that you want it active in.

AFAIK, for anything audio related beyond simple music streaming you want iOS. I bought an ancient iPad Air 2 w/64gb for $99 on Craigslist. It works fine, so anything newer w/more memory would just be even better. Works perfectly with the Catalyst app. I'm using AUM for recording. Works fine but TBH I don't do much of that on the iPad.

Hello!

Unless, of course, you just don't like it, in which case no excuse is necessary. Just be honest. Tell them "I don't like it." It's OK, they really don't especially care WHY unless it's defective, which prevents them from re-selling a defective item.

Here's a screenshot of a basic configuration using my HX Stomp (because that's what's on this PC, Floor is in the studio). I've super simplified the settings for demo purposes, just replace the MIDI device with Helix Floor. Note the settings for the tracks. MIDI enters via the MIDI track and is routed to the AUDIO track with plugins. If using a FS for each plugin, set to CC TOGGLE 0/127. If you're using Snapshots you'll need an IC for each plugin set to a simple MIDI CC - 127=ON;0=OFF. SS1 is Plugin 1 OFF;Plugin 2 ON. SS2 is Plugin 1 ON;Plugin 2 OFF. The attached sample preset shows how to do that. I'm using CC#s 111 and 112 as these are non-reserved CCs so they won't unintentionally trigger any reserved functions. That shouldn't be an issue, but I consider it "best practice". Rorion.hlx

See the attached example preset. Take the SEND L to your stage amp and the L/MONO Main Out (balanced) to the board. thetrooper0125.hlx

This stupid argument needs to die. AITR is meaningless. I propose new terminology: FAITR - FRFR Amp In The Room. GAITR - Guitar Amp In The Room. HAITR - Hybrid Amp In The Room. Then the focus of the discussion can change to something MEANINGFUL - WTF is HAITR??? AND DO HAITRs MOVE AIR??? Based on my experience of most MI forums (and politics or religion), they absolutely move the MOST air... I need more coffee.

Try it and see?

Have you watched this video? https://www.bluecataudio.com/Blog/tip-of-the-day/setup-a-midi-pedalboard-to-drive-your-guitar-software-on-a-computer/ I don't have Axiom but had a quick look at the video. Initial thought - are you using MIDI LEARN? If so, after learning each pedal, are you turning OFF MIDI LEARN before moving on to the next pedal?

If you attach your preset I'll have a look at it.

With no USB port for updates, the PC112 is what it is and that's all it will ever be. If that's all you think you'll ever need, go for it. It's possible (no guarantees) that the PC112+ will receive an update someday. Sound might be improved, new speakers added, new features maybe. I've tried comparing the two methods and see no clear advantage beyond saving DSP on your modeler. On-board IRs are (IMO) the least important feature of the Powercab.