duncann

If the mixer is absolutely the first thing in the chain, that means the second thing is the amp, which also means you can't have any effects before the amp. That's just the way it is when you try to do this. You can have effects before the mixer on either path while the amp remains after the mixer, so that would be the biggest benefit. You could set it up so that you could "pan" between the two paths, or two different effect setups, before it hits the amp, without actually using two amps.

Thanks for the link. Looks like an interesting option, expensive too. It's missing a couple of frets, unless they do more customized work for that and neck profiles. It'd be hard to buy something like this without it being local. Although looking at the artist list, maybe not. Besides, I just had my guitar refretted with stainless-steel frets (flawless work done by Denny Rauen).

I've never used a UX1, but you could certainly hook the HD into that, and then the UX1 into your computer via usb. Not sure if you gain any advantages by doing it that way. The easiest and simplest way would be to just use the HD as your audio interface through usb. Hook your speakers, or other audio amplification system, to the HD's outputs. Whatever way works best for you. I guess there is no right or wrong way.

Haha! Quit bogarting!

Thanks much Jeremy!

Lots of things are easily overlooked about Helix, even if you know about them!

Once you get a split in place where you want it, select it with the joystick and then depress the joystick, or just turn the joystick with the split selected. You have three choices for splits. Y - no parameters, A/B - can route the signal to either path or anything in between, Crossover - can control the frequency being sent to either path.

Maybe an easier and more straightforward way of doing what you want is to make the split, the one before the amp, an A/B split instead of a Y and assign the Route To parameter to an expression controller with a min of 'A 100' and max of 'B 100' (or the opposite if that's backwards).

Thanks for taking a listen Joel. If the HD works for you, no reason to change that. Because there would be an interruption in whatever process you're currently used to. I know a lot of people have a lot of time invested in the HD, including me. And if you were to move to Helix, a good amount of the HD's particulars suddenly becomes useless. On the other hand, it's quite a bit easier building tones with Helix with what I think are noticeably better results, and the interruption would be minimal. Not trying to sell Helix, just conveying my experience with both, mostly in the form of music.

Being able to specify a specific state for a block would be the basis for something like scenes.

It's the input block, or circle, on the left of the screen. In a blank preset there's two of them. The one on the bottom left (Path 'B' has an X through it (no input). The top one (Path A) is probably the one you want to change (default is Multi (Guitar, Aux, Variax). Select it and turn the joystick until it says S/PDIF on the bottom section of the screen, or depress the joystick to see a list of available options and then turn the joystick to scroll through and select each options.

I've got to concentrate, concentrate, concentrate. I've got to concentrate, concentrate, concentrate. (Airplane anyone?) There is an ideascale entry for this: http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Auto-engage-for-Wah-Pedal/801018-23508 But no one is going to say that this will be in Helix someday. You'll know if/when it shows up in a new firmware.

Be sure to select SPDIF for the input in the preset.

The hex adjustment is accessed from the side of the unit. Post #35 above by Aceaj78 says the parts that cause the squeaking can be fixed without taking the bottom off. He'd make a better surgeon than me cause it looks like there's hardly any room at all to apply a lubricant that way without getting gunk in places you don't want gunk.

No. It's just a toggle. Would be nice if it did though. Helix doesn't do this either.

May be obvious, but the outlet where you're getting power from isn't switched off?

Outside of opening a support ticket, they've been really quiet about this. Does anyone know what they're telling people who do open a ticket?

Ha. Good question. Seems like it would be redundant to the point of the methods interfering with each other. So I guess it would come down to which method works better? Certainly the curved frets would be more expensive since you'd need an entirely new neck.

Yea. Like this: https://youtu.be/uehDWQNActA?t=44

I often find good results with combining Helix's cabs, even more than one at a time, with an IR. Uses a little more dsp, but if it's there and not being used for anything else, why not?

Sounds like a good idea for guitars that can accommodate it. A double locking floyd-type system would have a problem. Another way to deal with the problem is to have the instrument refretted with a staggered arrangement, like Vai has on one of his guitars. Thanks again BillBee. Glad you like the stuff I write. You might be aware already, but it's possible to sharpen your knife edges for better operation: http://www.ibanezrules.com/tech/setup/sharpening.htm. I've never done it yet, but I might be getting close to that point.

Sure thing: http://www.ibanez.com/usa/products/accessories/tremoloarm.html Beware, they are expensive and only fit in specific bridges. edge, edge pro, low pro edge, and any others that use the tremolo arm holder that's in those, which I don't think is very many. They last longer than the metal ones, but they still break. I've gone through 4 or 5 of them now. Sucks. They are expensive too and a little hard to find, but if you look around you can find them for around $70, normally $125. So I doubt it would fit in your guitar unless you could fit one of these in it: I can recall watching a video with the evertune thing. Looked interesting, but I guess I didn't think much of it because, well, give me an edge bridge and I'm set. :) Never heard of the compensated nut. Is it something that could replace the clamps on a double locking system?

Do you mean to convert the coaxial from the HD to optical? If so, there's many of these cheap ones floating around in many forms: http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Coaxial-Toslink-Optical-Converter/dp/B001622FL8. I have one that I used and still use. Never had any problems with it other than it's very cheap. I have things set to output 48kHz, but I do remember trying 96kHz at one time and that also worked. As far as I know, it just stupidly converts the signal without doing anything to it, or looking at it in anyway.

I would just ignore the word echo in the name. Try switching between the dual delay and the mod chorus echo with a footswitch, with both producing the same delay. They both sound identical to me through headphones. No difference at all.

Thanks BillBee! As for flutters, I think I do that on purpose once in this song. Anything else is unconscious or accidental. I used to like it more than I do now. Part of the reason is the ultralite tremolo arm I use, which is too lite to effectively flutter with any intensity. But I could never go back to a metal arm after using the ultralite.