duncann

Exactly. It's not much and probably ignorable by most people. It's just one of those things that once discovered must be fixed, depending on your level of perfection and obsessiveness.

That dead zone annoyed me as well. You can add 19.5k ohms of resistance across the 10k ohm pot (the used terminals). Alternatively, you could also modify the cable you plug into the EP1.

Used for recording. Primarily a guitar player, but I do enjoy playing bass as well. Have Helix now, but I use that in pretty much the same way as I used to use the HD. Favorite amp is the SVT Bright. Favorite cab is the 4x10 Rhino. I keep things pretty simple. An amp, two 4x10 cabs with different mics (I lean towards a 47 cond and then a 112 dyn), some compression, and reverb. Sometimes I'll put a phaser or flanger in there. I find that the 8x10 cab is too hollow sounding. Lots of low end, but very thin elsewhere. The 4x10 is nice and thick, but lacks the low end the 8x10 has, but can easily be compensated for with the bass's EQ. I'll say that if someone has an HD and plans to use it in anyway for bass, the bass pack is essential. Without it is an aggressive exercise in frustration.

Don't know what could be causing the sound. Pier Murru could be on to something about the pickup being the source. It sounds like a metal component on the guitar, something other than the strings, vibrating and resonating that the pickup picks up. I actually really like little nuances in tones like that. They are fun! Lol. If you want to try and get rid of it, setting Helix's PAD to on might have an effect. For my jem with evolution pickups, I recently discovered that things sound much better with PAD on. Wish I had tried this sooner. As an alternative to PAD, you could also try lowering the pickup height slightly, since it's higher output. I try and have mine about 2mm from the bottom of the string to the pickup when the string is pressed at the 24th fret, for the neck, and around 3mm for the bridge.

I can hear what you're describing with headphones, from you're recorded clip. But it's so very subtle. Probably a long shot, but does it go away if you turn the HUM parameter to zero? Edit: Just tried the patch with my jem and evo pickups and I can also hear it in this form, with headphones. If what I'm hearing is the same thing you're hearing, turning HUM to zero makes it go away.

You've probably already read the couple of threads about this since you've mentioned it above here, so you're probably aware of the solutions. What you describe above is almost exactly the problem I was having with it. After lubricating (chapstick) the parts that operate the pedal, I've had no problems for around five months. Still works great. Unless they changed the manufacturing process, you're new one will probably have the same problem. It's a real easy fix though.

It doesn't really walk you through anything. It just presents you with a list of all the physical buttons. The list (selected by pressing the joystick button on the UI Test menu entry) starts out with red colored entries and each entry turns green once its associated control is pressed, turned, touched, moved forward, back, left, right, etc. I doubt it clears anything, or is capable of fixing anything that might be wrong. Just gives visual feedback about whether a control is working or not. The HD500(X) has a mode like this as well.

This doesn't sound right to me. There appears to be varied and nuanced definitions of what the attack on a compressor does, but I've never come across one that can basically fade-in the signal over time. I would actually love this, because then the need for a auto-volume would not be needed. :) I could very well be wrong, but my understanding is something along the lines of the amount of time that passes before the compressor starts compressing when the threshold is passed. I have noticed a fade-in and -out when switching presets, but nothing on the scale of seconds. I always thought it was there to suppress sudden volume spikes when switching, and generally making things sound smoother. Is there any external equipment, either real or virtual, that could be causing this?

The mode you're looking for is 4 & 5 while powering on. This will test all physical interactions with Helix, including the touch sensors.

One of my favorite uses of an expression pedal is to blend in the mix from an autofilter. Certainly it's not an otherworldly or extraordinary use of the pedal but it provides for a unique sense of musicality. Blending between completely different amp tones is a common use, or so I read. Don't use that myself. I'm sure others can chime in with more complicated and creative uses. Don't forget that you can have up to ten additional expression pedals in the form of a switch, either momentary or latching.

For me, it's the editor by far. There's a couple of problems with it yet, but it's so close to being nearly perfect. I can't seem to figure out how to cycle through the parameters of a block using only the keyboard. I think there should be three TAB panes: preset list, signal chain, and block detail. Unless this functionality is there but I'm missing something. Haven't found it yet. I also wish that when using the plus and minus keys for a parameter, or the up/down arrows using the mouse, it would increment/decrement everything by one unit, regardless of what that unit is. Right now if the unit is dB or milliseconds it jumps several values.

Nice to see a bunch of keyboard navigation added. Maybe I'm missing something, but is there a way to cycle through the parameters of a selected block using the keyboard? There is one keystroke that might have something to do with this according to the keyboard shortcut sheet, which is ENTER, but it doesn't seem to do anything. Also, is there a way, again using only the keyboard, to select an empty block location and put a desired block in that location? It seems to me there should be another panel to TAB into. So there would be the preset list, signal chain, and block detail panel. It would also be nice to be able to increment the value of all parameters by one. For example, the level parameter in particular has large jumps, or generally anything with a dB label. A lot of parameters with a frequency or millisecond label behave like this too.

Oh. That's not good. Have you tried holding switches 6 & 12 while turning power on? That's a safe boot mode, where you can try reflashing the firmware. But before you try that, if you haven't already, try some of the other switch-combo resets.

It's a longshot, but there is a diagnostic mode by holding switches 4 & 5 while powering on. Select the first item, by pressing the joystick, when the menu shows up. Then hit the action button. You should see one of the red entries change to green and an indication of each state of the button.

Welcome. Glad you found something useful in there. When using the USB it doesn't go through extra converters, so you're right, the quality would be better. Whether or not it's perceivable is another question. When using a cable for SPDIF, it is an RCA cable, but it should be 75 ohms for digital applications. I think the part at 1:52 shows you how to connect the HD for reamping using only the HD. So it's just one cable, from the 1/4" output (left or right), to the guitar input. The source signal, pre-recorded, comes from the DAW, using the HD's USB audio interface capability I believe. I'm spoiled by Helix where you don't have to swap cables or change anything except the input for the preset. It's all done over USB.

Never tried reamping with the HD but it shouldn't be too hard. There's a bunch of videos you can check out here. Basically, if you have a piece of external equipment that has an spdif input, connect the HD's spdif (can be set to output a dry signal) to that . Once the dry signal is recorded, send that back through the same interface you recorded the dry signal with and then back to the HD, by either physically switching cables on the HD's guitar input, or using the aux input and changing the input on the HD's preset to aux. I suppose the extra interface doesn't necessarily have to have an spdif input but you'd then have to convert the HD's spdif output to something that you can use.

You're not wrong. I don't see how the HD will ever get this ability without some sort of external equipment. Helix does this over USB. Very convenient.

Lol. I said but didn't mean what I said, eventually, which is actually, now, what I meant, because you meant to say what you didn't mean by saying something else, which means that...

Oops. Must have misread or had something else on my mind as I was writing. Separate poweramp blocks aren't in Helix, as njglover said. There is an ideascale entry for it though.

With this setting on auto, does the first enabled block determine the value, or just the first block? Also, is there a list anywhere of what the impedance values for effects are?

Since I got Helix, I always, always, always record a dry signal, in addition to the processed one. But yea, the dry signal is mono anyway.

Still, it's gotta be a little embarrassing for the makers of Garageband when they find out about this, unless they already know. I mean, one of it's most basic functions is to display waveforms. :lol: Waveform displays in software like this must have some intentional meaning, otherwise why not just display them with simple bars or something. I find them useful for when I want to spot, at a glance, a particular section of a song. It's an easy frame of reference. I don't rely on them for anything else though. So I suppose a mono versus stereo display would make little difference.

It's not there specifically because Helix is classified as a pro audio device, which don't have this sort of functionality. Blame the industry I guess.

I look at the combined amp/cab block as nothing more than clutter. You know, that crap that sits in the corner of the room that's always there that just won't leave no matter what you do, because you'll get to it tomorrow. Maybe there's some advantage to a combined block, I don't know. Simplicity? Cleanliness? As for if they sound the same: 1. Place an amp/cab block 2. Create a split by moving that amp/cab to a new path 3. Place an amp block and cab block on the empty path above the amp/cab block that's identical to the components of the amp/cab block. 4. Select the merge block and the B Polarity from normal to reverse. If an amp/cab block and identical split amp/cab blocks are sonically the same, there should be no sound after doing step 4. The above was originally Digital_Igloo's idea.