Schmalle

If you set up levels via USB in your DAW (recommended) and the signal stays below 0dBFS the analog outputs will not distort even with cranked volume knob. -Unless you use Global EQ to further boost frequencies. If you want headroom (for Global EQ or just to be save) lower ýour preset level at least by the max amount of boost that you want to be able to add. It may well cause distortion on following devices though. Comparing analog vs digital output levels: A USB signal level of about -14dBFS will be about +4dBu (aka studio gear level) given Output is set to Line Level and volume knob is cranked. Vice versa a USB signal level of 0dBFS (full) will produce +4dBu on the outs when the volume knob is set @ about 11 o'clock. Switching Output Level from Line to Inst decreases the signal by 7dB. Leveling on the HX stomp device: The output indicator (symbol of output block getting black/green/red) works at exactly +12dB relative to max USB level. Why? -Ask the bug living in it. At least I cannot come up with an explanation why it does that (v2.92). If you want to use the output indicator back off volume to less than half, add a 12dB boost (best in the output block), check if the indicator turned red and level your preset until that it doesn't, then undo the 12dB boost. If you want say 6dB headroom (for Global EQ or just to be save) do that procedure with 12dB+6dB =18bB. If it doesn't get red your presets are ready for USB recording and a cranked volume knob will not distort the analog outputs.

Delays do that by default: Try a Tube Echo with 100% drive and listen whether the dry signal is colored. Hint: It's not. Investigate the delay models. Maybe start with Vintage Digital and Lo Res. For reverb or delay/reverb combos use the suggested split strategy.

The number of speakers in a cab is a very broad generalization that doesn't tell you much (if anything) of how it sounds miced/ captured in an IR. The dimensions and whether it's open back ( and how much) would tell you more. But then add mics with their characteristics, placement and mixing strategies to the equation. I'd suggest to think like this: FRFR is supposed to be a neutral canvas. No distortion, flat response. Amps are designed in conjunction with certain cabs. IRs are supposed to emulate the frequency response of those cabs through a neutral system. Problem is there are many frequency responses, depending on where you listen. There are different approaches to choose one of those - another story. Bottom line: Trust you ears, craft sounds that fit the musical context and of course: “If it sounds good, it IS good.” ― Duke Ellington

That's HX Stomp's DualPitch. Your settings are quite like mine: 38% mix level +3db pitch +10,-11 cents delay 13ms Done purely by ear.

Glad to hear that it's of use for you. I've put it on CustomTone.

Got a bit closer I think. Baluchitherium.hlx VH '95 Sample on SoundCloud

Quick and dirty ballpark preset! Baluchitherium.hlx EDIT: Worked on more accurate version, see post below

Balance is the '95 album, the one with 'Can't stop lovin' you'. Well, drenched in chorus all over the place. I have no patch but a suggestion for the chorus: Dimension with only Switch1 on and 50-60% mix, placed after the amp.

Yes, the volume knob has no effect on when the output indicator turns red. If it does turn red your signal is at least 12dB too hot. Therefore you have to use the volume knob and subtract the appropriate amount which results in a position @12 o'clock or lower. I use the term indicator to distinct from meter (a measurement tool that has a scale).

Well, it seemingly is: The point where the output stage distorts can only be switched between two levels. These only depend on whether Output Level is set to Line or Inst. It sounds and behaves like D/A conversion overload, too. From no audible distortion to pretty drastic at a specific tipping point. At a point where slight boosting with either a block or volume knob leads to distortion adding 12dB in a block and subtracting via volume knob (and vice versa) has neutral effect.

The long press is intentional, because it's a double purpose switch. Short taps will enter the tempo i.e for delays etc. I'm not aware of an option to access the tuner directly by short press.

Dynamics -> Autoswell

Some additional observations: The volume knob seems to acts before D/A conversion. If you set it half way it subtracts 12db. My measurements (see the post from yesterday) were made with volume knob disengaged (which is the same as full). If you set the volume knob half way (12 o'clock), then the output indicator is a pretty good way to determine whether your signal is clipping on the outs. If you set it @11 o'clock the output indicator turning red warns @-6dB before clipping on the outs. With output indicator I mean the Output Main L/R symbol (circle) at the end of the signal chain.

It's on the Cosmos Echo and it dampens the change of the time parameter. When you change time with ramp @0 it will follow instantly, @10 only slowly.

Space Invaders and Snake to cope with Covid caused boredom.

Intensity controls how fast and wild the octaves go up. Concerning the missing Predelay parameter: I agree that this does a lot to separate the direct signal from the cloud the Octo is building up. It helps the effect breathe. There is a workaround though: Put a Simple Delay followed by the Octo into Path B (both!). Change the Split before them to Split A/B. Set Simple Delay's Feedback to 0% and Mix to 100%. Set Octo's mix to 100%. Now use the Split A/B as replacement for the Octo's mix and the Simple Delay's Delay as the missing Predelay. Have fun!

Well, I swear the output indicator didn't turn red last time. After restart it worked, but only at insane levels. What I mean is it gets red way late: Sine wave 1kHz 1V RMS into HX Stomp, Input Level = Line, Output Level = Line, Volume control = Full. With only 2 Gain blocks @14.5dB combined it starts to distort. This is slightly above 6.3V RMS output level. But I need another flippin' 12dB boost to bring the output indicator to get red where I measure 9.1V RMS. That's only 3.2dB more measured output level which means it's already heavily distorting. When I input a 0.77V sine wave (dbU reference) distortion starts with 17dB which means 16dB headroom, a figure that Line6 stated somewhere. Conclusion: DON'T DEPEND ON THE OUTPUT INDICATOR!

My HX Stomp doesn't. Even with 10V RMS full spectrum overkill square wave measured at the output it doesn't. I tried. I tried really hard.

The output indicator has only two visual states: empty or green. It will never go red, no matter how hard you hit it. Only the input indicator can turn red. Edit: Don't depend on the output indicator, it will only get red when the signal is already pretty distorted The output stage is also very forgiving and will sound good despite being overdriven. For your setup make sure to check you USB In 1/2 Trim is not more than 0dB and Output Level is set to Line in Global Settings -> Ins/Outs.

I assume you answered while I already was replying?! - Read post above!

When I use your patch and set mix to 50% I get delay and reverb with both inputs as well as both returns. Set Global Settings -> Ins/outs -> Return Type to Return. Btw. try increasing master to 6 or 7 on the Brit 2204 to get some more power tube saturation.

From looking at the photo: Why is mix 100%? This means 100% signal is coming from Return, 0% from Input. Set it to 50% as a start.

Do you use the right out to FRFR speaker? It's a stereo signal where the RETURN L only effects the left channel. Place a mono block behind it to blend L and R. If that's not it: post your current preset here and we'll find out.

Personally, I love the sound of vintage amps. These sounds are heavily influenced by power amp saturation. It's a glorious thing with it's compression and roar. The accurate modeling of this phenomenon is the strength of the Helix imho as well as the fact that I can get it at any volume. I think some of that strength gets lost when a real tube power amp is put behind this. It's like coloring a already colored picture. Therefore I would use the preamp versions of the amp models into a power amp / FX return. But then the power amp saturation gets lost, or I have to push the real amp which in most cases is too loud. So I go the FRFR route and I'm happy with that. Although I admit that I have not found my perfect solution for stage/band practice. At home through my Neumann studio monitors it's PERFECT. If you're a rock/metal guy and only use amps like Friedmans, Engls, Revvs, 5150s you mightl think differently since those amps shape most of their sound in the preamp and sound great at any (master) volume. Also if you're a pedal guy and only use the pedal and fx models. Then you only need a clean/edge of breakup amp to get great sounds.