Schmalle

I think this video might be helpful. Rhett describes in detail how he dials in amps. Later in it he demonstrates matching an amp for different guitars:

Setting the output level to line level adds a significant boost that should be compensated best in the FX loop by lowering the return level, assuming Helix volume knob is cranked. Generally that would be a good idea if you use dynamic effects. Again: check if volume stays the same when bypassing FX loop with Peavey foot controller, if it does levels are set correctly. The hiss comes from the Helix before the amp input. It's a high gain amp so any noise will be highly amplified. If you plug your guitar into the amp instead of the Helix you'll notice it goes away. Good news is there is the PV Panama preamp model which should sound nearly identical to the lead channel. Using this instead will get rid of the hiss.

Mic position parameter in IR and cab block. It might be as easy as a renamed tilt eq @670Hz. I think this would especially help players not too fond with eq stuff.

I've measured about 0.7A while booting and about 1A current draw after that with a patch with looper, amp sim, cab, IR, eq and reverb which (according to this) is about of 75% dsp usage.

What I'd do to set up a rig like yours: - cabling according to 4CM - set Input, Output and Send/Return levels to Inst - turn the volume knob (Helix) fully up - go to / make an empty preset - add FX Loop to the preset - play and check if you hear the amp and it sounds normal (some added hiss is normal) - check if volume stays the same when bypassing FX loop with Peavey foot controler - add a Noise Gate (Dynamics FX) after the FX Loop block in the Helix and try to get rid of the hiss [- bypass FX Loop block in the Helix, add the PV Panama Preamp block and match it with the amps Lead channel]

The Peavey 6505+ has a switchable FX loop.

It must be quite new. I saw it for the first time today and I've searched for FRFR stuff some weeks ago .

Normally a frequency response curve is the result of a free-field measurement. In a real use case the box stands on the floor which increases bass response. Also these cabs have active resonance and presence controls to fine tune for different environments.

Welcome to the club. I have a suspicion that this happens sometimes when plugging in the power supply to power up the HX Stomp. In the very first moment of powering up (the moment of plugging into the grid) the device might be powered with slightly to low voltage which might lead to glitches. Just a guess though.

Look up the Four-Cable-Method aka 4CM if you didn't already. It would be the ideal use of the Helix in context of an amp like the JVM. Essentially you can use the preamp of the Marshall or optionally the preamps of the amp models from the Helix and add FX before and after. Try that first and explore for some time. Keep in mind that these preamps were designed for different power amps and cabs. Not all will play well with the JVM power amp / cab. Additional post eq might trim that. Then break the rules and experiment with whole amp models and IRs.

I own a pair of DT 770 and like them because at higher volume they give a great representation of the frequency spectrum in a live situation. And I really hear the details of any room FX I dialed in. Other then that I think upgrading would be a rabbit hole that I don't want to get trapped in. "Better" becomes pretty subjective when applied to pro level equipment.

Lazy? - Me too: https://line6.com/helix/ https://line6.com/podgo/

Q controls for low / high cut on the EQ blocks as well as the cab and IR block. Emphasizing the cut frequency using Q higher then 0.7 empowers one to get rid of rumble / sizzle / fizz of a miced amp sound but retaining the overall frequency balance. Making a sound sit in the mix is pretty straight forward with this. I use it in the AxeFx all the time.

There is an amp model called Studio Tube Pre that you might give it a spin, but a Gain block works fine, too. If you just want to get the signal through at the same level set you need no blocks. Just make shure that Global Settings for Input Level and Output Level are set the same and your devices volume knob is all the way up. If you want to lift the signal from instrument level to line level do it there in the Global Settings. The volume knob on your device decreases volume from there. So about 2 o'clock on Instrument->Line output level setting is neutral while 5 o'clock (full) is neutral on Instrument->Instrument. If you don't want the volume knob behaviour you can set Volume Controls to Phones instead of Main+HP to switch it off.

You might want to set Send/Return level to Instrument (Global Settings - Ins/Outs). If you cannot hear / see anything after normalizing there is no recorded signal aka silence. Read the manual for USB audio since there are limitations to each USB audio track pair. Also I'd suggest to record Bass and Melody with USB 3/4 left/right and split in Logic if possible.

Pretty shure the left output jack of your HX Stomp is not connected to ground. Accidentally stepped on the plug of a connected cable to the left output jack so it broke off? If you have a multimeter at hand you can check whether it is defective: Unplug everything from the HX Stomp. Only connect two cables: one to the left and one to the right output jack. Then measure the resistance between both sleeves, it should be 0 Ohms when ok and a high value when faulty. Your power supply is not faulty. It just connects the amps ground with the HX Stomp ground with high impedance. You hear amplified mains hum.

I had 5 min to find something similar and found the Tweed BluesNrm to be a good choice. Settings I liked are stock amp/cab with these changes: Drive 2.5 Bass 6.5 Mid 7.0 Treble 7.0 Presence 7.0 Ch Vol 6.5 Dist 1.0" Low Cut 130Hz Played with my Tele on the neck position and rolled back tone on guitar a fair bit. Spring reverb for some spice. Try it in front of the amp, too! Some of the compression we hear is probably due to the some limiting from the phone that guy recorded with. Btw, in the end of the video he shows his amps: Vibro King and Bassman '59.

First impression from listening: Bassman normal channel in the room. May be start with Tweed Blues Nrm, roll off some volume and tone on the guitar, Bass @ 4, Low Cut @ 200Hz and go from there. Edit: See my post below for detailed settings.

Yes, will work. Only downside is the tap button is not blinking and the bypass state is not visible.

I actually liked the amp settings for modern fat crunch sound. So: well done and thanks for sharing! Since I own a Hx Stomp your preset was way to big to import it. So I looked at it's amp and drive settings and recreated a patch that hopefully sounds close. The cab is a dual cab mix (Blackback/409 + XXL V30/30Dyn). If don't mind give it a try, compare and leave some comments. One For The Poor.hlx

Sorry, but that is just not the case. A real time DSP has hard time constraints. If not all calculations are done, it has to break up and restart with the next sample. What that would sound like is not trivially predictable.

I'd guess you use Split Crossover? Read the manual for what it does. Use Split Y or Split A/B or even better a dual cab.

Well I'll share my to cents regarding modern sounds: I think the VH brown sound is a good place to start, because it feels awesome to play, is versatile and inspired generations of guitar players (and amp manufacturers!). One way (of many) to get it is using the ANGL Meteor. It is my (wet) dream of a modern marshallesque sound. The Helix pairs it with the 4x12 XXL V30 cabinet which is a great match. The stock setting mic 409Dyn @2.0" is also great. The only thing I change here is lowering the high cut to 6.7kHz. This will make it less open, but also gets rid of nasty harshness. We can increase the amps treble now which gets us a satisfying amout of definition/attack. Starting with this setting for the ANGL Meteor this brings me in the brown sound ball park: Drive 3 Bass 2 Mids 2 Treble 7 Presence 4 Master 4 I always use a reverb to get a room feeling. Without that I tend to always want to tweak the amp. Once familiar with that sound keep the cab and change amp to the Archetype Lead, Solo Crunch, Solo Lead, Placater etc and try to dial them in to get a similar sound. That will give you a feeling for each of those and a tonal starting point in your head/ears. That's at least what I did and got me to really dig the Helix. Then there you can experiment with drives. The Screamer 808 can get you to leads and djenty stuff, the Hedgehog D9 is instant Scorpions sound etc. Much to discover here... Regarding the cab, I sometimes like to use dual cabs and mix in a little of the same cab with a different mic. 121Ribn @6.0" worked fine so far to add a little focus on the mids. If you want to go chugga chugga metal try this: Increase mids in the amp and add a parametric eq after it. Choose MdFreq @ 405Hz, Mid Q @1.4 and cut to taste. This emulates the mid cut section found on a Diezel Herbert. To reduce mud here is on trick that emulates the C45 switch on Friedmans: Tilt EQ block before the amp: Brt50, CenFreq 670Hz, Level +4,5dB.

Yes. The FX loops of the Helix insert external audio devices (preamp of an amp head, pedals, rack gear etc.) into where ever you want in the signal chain.