Schmalle

The long press is intentional, because it's a double purpose switch. Short taps will enter the tempo i.e for delays etc. I'm not aware of an option to access the tuner directly by short press.

Dynamics -> Autoswell

Some additional observations: The volume knob seems to acts before D/A conversion. If you set it half way it subtracts 12db. My measurements (see the post from yesterday) were made with volume knob disengaged (which is the same as full). If you set the volume knob half way (12 o'clock), then the output indicator is a pretty good way to determine whether your signal is clipping on the outs. If you set it @11 o'clock the output indicator turning red warns @-6dB before clipping on the outs. With output indicator I mean the Output Main L/R symbol (circle) at the end of the signal chain.

It's on the Cosmos Echo and it dampens the change of the time parameter. When you change time with ramp @0 it will follow instantly, @10 only slowly.

Space Invaders and Snake to cope with Covid caused boredom.

Intensity controls how fast and wild the octaves go up. Concerning the missing Predelay parameter: I agree that this does a lot to separate the direct signal from the cloud the Octo is building up. It helps the effect breathe. There is a workaround though: Put a Simple Delay followed by the Octo into Path B (both!). Change the Split before them to Split A/B. Set Simple Delay's Feedback to 0% and Mix to 100%. Set Octo's mix to 100%. Now use the Split A/B as replacement for the Octo's mix and the Simple Delay's Delay as the missing Predelay. Have fun!

Well, I swear the output indicator didn't turn red last time. After restart it worked, but only at insane levels. What I mean is it gets red way late: Sine wave 1kHz 1V RMS into HX Stomp, Input Level = Line, Output Level = Line, Volume control = Full. With only 2 Gain blocks @14.5dB combined it starts to distort. This is slightly above 6.3V RMS output level. But I need another flippin' 12dB boost to bring the output indicator to get red where I measure 9.1V RMS. That's only 3.2dB more measured output level which means it's already heavily distorting. When I input a 0.77V sine wave (dbU reference) distortion starts with 17dB which means 16dB headroom, a figure that Line6 stated somewhere. Conclusion: DON'T DEPEND ON THE OUTPUT INDICATOR!

My HX Stomp doesn't. Even with 10V RMS full spectrum overkill square wave measured at the output it doesn't. I tried. I tried really hard.

The output indicator has only two visual states: empty or green. It will never go red, no matter how hard you hit it. Only the input indicator can turn red. Edit: Don't depend on the output indicator, it will only get red when the signal is already pretty distorted The output stage is also very forgiving and will sound good despite being overdriven. For your setup make sure to check you USB In 1/2 Trim is not more than 0dB and Output Level is set to Line in Global Settings -> Ins/Outs.

I assume you answered while I already was replying?! - Read post above!

When I use your patch and set mix to 50% I get delay and reverb with both inputs as well as both returns. Set Global Settings -> Ins/outs -> Return Type to Return. Btw. try increasing master to 6 or 7 on the Brit 2204 to get some more power tube saturation.

From looking at the photo: Why is mix 100%? This means 100% signal is coming from Return, 0% from Input. Set it to 50% as a start.

Do you use the right out to FRFR speaker? It's a stereo signal where the RETURN L only effects the left channel. Place a mono block behind it to blend L and R. If that's not it: post your current preset here and we'll find out.

Personally, I love the sound of vintage amps. These sounds are heavily influenced by power amp saturation. It's a glorious thing with it's compression and roar. The accurate modeling of this phenomenon is the strength of the Helix imho as well as the fact that I can get it at any volume. I think some of that strength gets lost when a real tube power amp is put behind this. It's like coloring a already colored picture. Therefore I would use the preamp versions of the amp models into a power amp / FX return. But then the power amp saturation gets lost, or I have to push the real amp which in most cases is too loud. So I go the FRFR route and I'm happy with that. Although I admit that I have not found my perfect solution for stage/band practice. At home through my Neumann studio monitors it's PERFECT. If you're a rock/metal guy and only use amps like Friedmans, Engls, Revvs, 5150s you mightl think differently since those amps shape most of their sound in the preamp and sound great at any (master) volume. Also if you're a pedal guy and only use the pedal and fx models. Then you only need a clean/edge of breakup amp to get great sounds.

You can measure the latency yourself. All you need is a mic and some software to visualize a recording. Put the mic very close to the headphones, then pick a note on the guitar while recording. Then you can take a look at the beginning of the wave form and get the time both signals are shift. Add the time for the acoustic wave traveling through the air from your guitar to the mic (3ms/m) and you got the latency. This should be easy with just a phone and an app. Or a laptop with a DAW or Editor like Audacity.

Drive on the Helix amps is the control that on real counterparts can have other labels like gain, volume etc. Reducing it makes the sound less overdriven (=dirty) and usually brighter as well. If your preset uses a Distortion block, reduce it's gain first and/or it's volume. Also make sure that you didn't accidentally change Global Settings -> Ins/Outs -> Input Level. It should be set to Inst for magnetic pickups.

Yes, probably. Is there a reset mode that does that?

This thread is 4 years old. Line6 probably changed the behavior of the editor in that particular aspect.

The passive K&K pickup should work better on the Helix instrument input. It has 1MOhm input impedance to provide a natural balanced signal. The L.R. Baggs has 10MOhm which should result in a hotter signal with slightly pronounced bass. What sounds better depends on the instrument and personal preference. It's only a marginal difference though. This comparison might give an impression. Keep in mind that cascading audio devices adds noise, too.

You can switch between 000-125 and 01A-042C in Global Settings -> Preferences -> Preset Number. .

Use a TRRS converter (instead of TRS). Yours connects mic/ctrl from the Beats to Helix gnd.

Global Settings -> MIDI/Tempo -> MIDI PC RX probably, it's setting should include USB. PC RX = program change receive.

Or 10 seconds backing of some bass with the global eq.

No.