cruisinon2

As others have said, those aren't snapshots... those are separate patches. Snapshots exist within an individual patch. That's what allows for gapless switching, because you're not changing presets, only switching various amp, and/or FX parameters within one preset.

lol...surely, you jest. The color of the bathroom tiles at their corporate headquarters is proprietary info.... don't hold your breath. ;)

Not really sure what you mean by "registering with the sound card"... but if you want to use that interface with Helix, connect the L and R 1/4" outputs (or the XLR's, either should work) to the Focusrite, and then connect the interface to your computer via the USB connection.

That was quick... lol. I added a bit, scroll up.

Just so we're all on the same page, there's no "magnetic Variax jack". The 1/4" output carries the exact same signal as the VDI connection... modeled guitars and/or the mag pickups...so you could plug straight into the harmony unit, and then into Helix if you want. But if you prefer the VDI connection to Helix, just put the harmony unit in an FX loop, as the first block in the signal chain.

I've never used the kind of device you describe... but the signal leaving the guitar is what it is. I can't see how this harmony doo-dad would be able to tell if the pitches it's receiving have been digitally altered or not.

Run L6 Updater and follow the prompts. Choose the latest firmware version, and hit "start". Then go make a sandwich... by the time you're done it'll be finished, and Helix will reboot. ....**backup your patches to your computer first in case something goes wrong**. That aside, there's very little to actually "do", and even less that you can genuinely screw up. The process runs itself. It's about as simple as anything gets these days...

Are you using the expression pedal toe switch to turn the wah on/off? If so, unless you've also assigned the other FX blocks to the toe switch, this shouldn't be happening... might be time to open a support ticket.

If you've installed the L6 Updater and the Helix hardware is connected, once you click "start" (or "start update", whatever it says) the process runs itself...there's really nothing to do. If nothing is happening, open a support ticket, as something may be wrong with the unit.

Yes, it's possible and generally works quite well with no perceptible latency if you're monitoring directly from Helix, using it as your sound card... unless you have "direct monitoring" turned on in your DAW. This will make you hear yourself twice... the direct feed from Helix, then hearing what you played again after it makes the round trip into your computer and back out again, and into your cans. Just make sure that's turned off.

Harrumph! (insert door slam and storm off sound FX here)...;)

It might work...but there's no guarantee that you'll get the same tone on both sides. FRFR designations notwithstanding, they're different devices with different speakers. Could be barely noticeable, or it might drive you nuts... only one way to find out.

It's a losing battle, and it's got nothing to do with Helix. All Bluetooth devices have some degree of latency, and whatever any one particular transmitter's latency is, it is... and it's there no matter what you're connecting it to... you just won't notice it until you're trying to do something time- sensitive, like playing an instrument and expecting to hear what you play in real time. Some devices can have up to 500ms of latency....which is nothing that you'd care about (if you even noticed) if all you're doing is passively listening to music, or even for making a phone call. But for monitoring an instrument, anything that introduces much more than 10-20ms is gonna cause problems. 100ms would be totally unusable, and anything longer than that is an eternity.... as useless as playing a note and hearing it tomorrow.

The impedance setting is in the input block...I won't say it's impossible, but if there's a way to control it with a footswitch assigned to toggle a fuzz box, I don't know what it is. Snapshots will definitely work though. As for individual settings, I won't be of much help...I'm not really a fuzz fan.

The workaround is using snapshots... set up one with the fuzz on and low Z impedance, another with the fuzz off and the high Z setting of your choice.

Theres no need to bother with that ridiculous USB dongle (those things have always been iffy) if you have a POD... connect to the POD with the VDI cable, then the POD to the computer via USB. I did it that way for years. Side note: batteries suck. In addition to the Workbench connection, the VDI will power the JTV, too. Kills 2 birds with one stone...

Folks have been asking for that for years...if they had any intention of doing that, I think we'd have seen it by now.

Probably not, but who knows? They are a pretty well informed bunch...I'm sure they'd help with technical issues, but I doubt they have the time for "what buttons do I push to sound like Slash? " requests. ;)

+1...I have the JTV69. The stock neck is terrible. Very narrow at the nut. Open position chords were a nightmare, and I have reasonably long fingers, lol... and I found it almost unplayable (I weep for the "sausage digit" crowd...;) ). It now sports a Warmoth Strat neck... an infinite improvement. The modeling I think is quite good on the whole (not overly thrilled with the Strat model, but the single coil mag pickups actually sound pretty damn good, though they are a bit noisier than average). Being able to bounce from electric to "acoustic" live, has been transformative....would I record an album with it instead of mic-ing a nice acoustic? Probably not...but tweaked with a couple of acoustic IR's I got, in a live mix it's so damn close that the overwhelming majority of listeners would never know the difference if it weren't for the visual of a guy holding an electric.... The alt tunings can have issues... particularly those that are altering the pitch of some strings but not others. Drop D for instance is subject to crosstalk issues of you're palm - muting... anything you play play on the A string can be "heard" by the low E piezo, and subsequently detuned, so you're hearing two pitches a whole step apart. Gets muddy and I can't really use it. Tunings that are altering all the strings by the same interval are not affected by crosstalk, as the same algorithm is applied to everything, even if an adjacent piezo saddle picks up the string next door. I use 1/2 down tuning all the time, and I find that it tracks very well. In the end it's a compromise... very good at some things, others not so much.

Customtone is a great idea that translates poorly to real world use. The assumption that you can download someone else's patch and have it sound the same is really a fantasy. There are far too many variables involved... the most significant of which is the way you're monitoring Helix...headphones, studio monitors, through a "real" amp, etc. Unless you and whomever posted the patch have identical gear, cranked to similar volumes (which is uber important... significant volume differences = wildly different tone) you can expect that patch to sound VERY different on your end... and 98% of the time you'll have no clue what the other guy did...all you can do is guess. The guitar, pickups, playing style all factor in too. Download a few when you get it working, and you'll see that the difference between what you hear and the downloaded patch's description is often comical...in other words, it's usually a huge waste of time. You'll be better off getting to know the unit and creating your own tones.

It shouldn't be doing that... what's causing it is anybody's guess, but "normal", it ain't.

I buy nearly everything from Sweetwater at this point....shipping is fast (and free if you're spending over $100), 30 day return window, no questions asked. And on most* big ticket items, they tack on an extra year of service beyond the manufacturer's warranty. I have no affiliation with them whatsoever, just a happy customer...

That's not what he's saying... "The low E tone is thinner and brighter compared to the other strings." He's talking about the low E string sounding different relative to the other strings of any one particular model...it's not a LP vs Strat thing. Sounds like the typical "plink" issue to me...

'Cause pedals are "real", man... lol I don't get it either. Golden eared cork sniffers will forever maintain that modeling can never replace the "real thing". Well they can have fun lugging around and re-tubing all the "real" amps they want, and futzing with 19 different pedals and their power supplies or 9V batteries, on an enormous board that could anchor a cruise ship. I'll take the versatility, convenience, and consistency of Helix, and whatever unit eventually comes along to replace it...all with one trip from the car into the gig.

Buying guitars online, sight unseen, is a crap shoot. I've had good luck, and I've received necks that had more twists in it than a corkscrew. You've no idea where/ how it's been stored, how long its languished in some stock room under less than ideal conditions, etc. Your experience is regrettable, but I can't say I'm surprised. I've been buying guitars for 30 years...couldn't even give you a count at this point. The one constant I've seen, no matter where you're buying from, is that fretwork on factory produced, assembly line instruments tends to suck, more often than not. Rough edges, high frets, etc...poorly slotted nuts are also a common problem. Sometimes these issues can be addressed with some minor filing, polishing, or a few love taps with a hammer to seat a high fret... but I've also seen some that were so bad a complete g&p would have been required to get them to play properly. But out of the box, almost nothing is gonna be "just right"... even on pricier stuff than this. I replaced the neck on my JTV within a couple of months... not because there was anything "wrong" with it per se, I just didn't like it. Way too narrow at the nut, and too fat around back for my taste.... but the fretwork was no better or worse than average, imho. OK, but certainly not spectacular.