Verne-Bunsen

@SchmalleThat is a tasty tone no matter the context.

I think the OP has it right. E down to Eb would be down a half step, and down another 40 cents would be more than a half step. To go down exactly a quarter step you would go down to Eb then back up 50 cents. Down to Eb then back up 40 cents will land you down just more than a quarter step, which seems to be what is indicated.

I've been wondering about plugging one of those new Old Blood Expression Rampers in to one of the Helix expression pedal jacks to bring movement to modulation rates and the like. Haven't tried it myself but it seems like it would do the trick... What I'd love to see eventually, maybe in Helix2, would be an LFO and an input signal dynamics based controller that could be assigned to any parameter at all. That'd be cool...

Not gonna lie, my first reaction to this was "This reads an awful lot like a sales pitch..." And maybe it is, I dunno. But I did go watch the video and then spend the $20. So if it was one, at least it was an effective one. I've been using Helix for going on 6 years and consider myself to be a fairly "advanced" user, for lack of a better term, but the book is full of revelations and insight for me. Every page makes me want to sit down and try something. I would add my part to the sales spiel by saying, (ahem) "If you are a Helix user and are at all interested in the nuts and bolts of it, this book is a no-brainer."

This is the exact reason that I put Barefoot Buttons on all of my Helix foot switches. Tired of inadvertently activating the capacitive function of the switches with fingers, forearms, feet, or other body part beginning with "F". Not an inexpensive solution, but certainly an elegant one. I got the clear ones so you can still see the LED ring, you can still use the capacitive functions by touching the set screws, and it looks awesome.

Dual Lock is a much more "mechanical" connection than standard velcro. It takes some force, especially if there are multiple pieces and row alignment is off a bit, and the more you use the more force is required to get it all engaged. First recommendation is to use less. I put three rows of 2-inch on my Helix and it is massively overkill and it is a nightmare removing it from the board. Aside from that, try starting on an edge as opposed to trying to press the whole thing straight in. If you can reduce how many rows you are trying to engage at a time, less force is required.

I kind of think that this post should automatically be the first response in every single new thread.

Thanks! Definitely overkill, but I use it all! I've been using Helix since very early on and this arrangement has kind of developed over time. Helix handles amp, cab/IR, dirt, modulation, and tone shaping (eq, compression). Reverb and delay is handled by outboard pedals in the loops. The music I play lately is very reverb-and-delay intensive, and I like being able to plug in exactly what I need or want. The Freq Out is a "toy" that doesn't have a counterpart in Helix, and the Boomerang has functionality that is critical to what I do and that the Helix looper doesn't have. The Helix's ability to seamlessly incorporate outboard gear was a big part of why I chose it when deciding on a modeling platform. If you are interested, this is the sort of thing I like to do with all that stuff: https://soundcloud.app.goo.gl/GwvF8oAsy2jvV6fbA

Power distribution is definitely a major part of laying out a modern pedalboard. It deserves at least as much planning as the audio cable routing. I don't know of a "magic bullet" for doing all of those things. Might exist, but I haven't found it. My board has a master power strip that supplies Helix and my Boomerang looper directly, then a Strymon Ojai that powers my Strymon and Meris pedals, and a Voodoo Labs PP+ that runs the smaller pedals. Yeesh. (forgive the bad lighting, the lighting was bad...)

I have the translucent Barefoot Buttons and they are awesome. I like having the capacitance functions accessed by touching the set screw on the side rather than a surface on top, as it keeps me from accidentally doing things (which used to happen a LOT). It requires deliberate action. Also, I think they look pretty sweet...

I am really excited for the Retro Reel. I've been jonesing for Deco for quite a while and trying to figure out how to squeeze it on my board, seeing this in the update really got me excited! I'm away from home for work and won't get to play with it for a couple of weeks yet, but I'm sure looking forward to it...

I agree that amps seem to break up very early, especially given that I tend toward generally low output pickups. Every time I try the input pad though I feel like the life has been sucked out of my guitars. Perhaps I just haven't spent enough time dialing my patches back in after engaging it. I think I'll play with it again...

Gosh, it's been quite a while but I am pretty certain I was running that between the amp and the cab, that is generally where I put my outboard reverbs and delays. Glad those clips have been helpful!

It isn't a fan forum nor a sales floor. It is a user forum. We are here to help each other get the most out of this device, not to move units. Your question has been answered repeatedly and consistently: there is no reason for you to upgrade to Helix. There is nothing wrong with your Spider Jam if it works for you.

Why indeed?