soundog

I like the Lonestar for clean, crunch, and lead in one amp. Read through forums to find usage tips. Below is a mish-mash of some notes I've saved from various sources, including these forums, which helped me get a handle on this versatile and complex amp: DRIVE = DRIVE 1; GAIN = DRIVE 2 Channel 2 has a split personality and can either be set to achieve a slightly gainier clone of Channel 1 or, with the flick of a switch become a high gain preamp. Switching in the "DRIVE 1" control adds 2 more triode stages and an additional gain control to meter in the exact blend of smooth singing saturation. The bipolar nature of Channel 2 allows the LONE STAR to roam effortlessly through both vintage and modern territory with full channel switching accuracy and an emphasis on soul and simplicity.You can set up the amp for two low gain channels, one for sparkling clean and the other driven into an old school clip or, one for low gain clean and the other for high gain singing sustain. This is the pre-drive control for the high gain preamp in Channel 2. It may be switched out of the circuit, along with its associated tube stages, to create a slightly higher gain clone of Channel 1 in (this bottom) Channel 2. When the "DRIVE 1" control is activated (switch left, towards "DRIVE 1"), this control operates in conjunction with the "DRIVE 2" control to meter the amount of preamp drive that will be introduced into the circuit. Generally speaking, you will find better response and dynamics combined with smoother saturation by setting the "DRIVE 2" control higher than "DRIVE 1". In fact you might try leaving the "DRIVE 2" set to 2:00 or 3:00 and just playing with the "DRIVE 1" to learn the regions of saturation.You will probably find the more blues oriented sounds between 9:00 and 11:00, while the really saturated high gain sounds appear between 1:00 and 3:00. ---- Start with Drive2 at 7-8, then play with Drive1 between 1-8 Better response & smoother saturation with Drive2 slightly higher than Drive1. Try Drive2 near middle settings or lower. As you increase Drive2, reduce Bass. Treble is most important of tone settings and effects the others. Start at 4-6.5. Use Presence in lower settings for lead sounds. Use TS Shape on Normal to pass through tone settings. Thick smears highs and mids; Thicker more so, more sustain. Use TS Normal for rhythm and cleaner leads, thick and thicker for more balls. Use Master between 2-7. [ie, turn Drive 1 down pretty low, and Drive 2 higher than its setting] Drive 2 near middle settings or a bit lower. Try leaving Drive 2 at 7-8 and playing with Drive 1. TREBLE most importantly of tone dials, set at 4-6.5 As you increase the "DRIVE 2" reduce the BASS. TS Shape on Normal Some of the best lead sounds in your LONE STAR will find the PRESENCE control in it's lower regions, where a balanced, vocal response is achieved. we suggest using the MASTER control in its sensible ranges ( 2-7 ). — The drive and gain knobs are named Drive 1 and Drive 2 respectively and will have the added gain stage always on. We had thought about adding the behavior of setting the channel to clean, but when Ch2 is set to clean and in normal mode, it is essentially the same as Ch1. I tried to incorporate the switch into the knob as you described, but found that people would just miss or forget about the feature since it wouldn't be shown on the knob. I tried to add a switch on the model just like on the amp, but then found that people could get confused adjusting a knob that essentially did nothing, which we definitely wanted to avoid. I know it's a lot of explanation for a single switch that did not make it into the model that the real amp has, but I wanted people to know that we really think about doing the amps as much justice as possible, but we also want to keep every part of every model as "Helix-esqe" in every element of the experience.

Thanks, @Inerzia — I'll give that a go!

Is there an equivalent in Helix? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IBpHhCnWS4

.... I do the same thing with a banjo model in open Am, run through an infinite delay with distortion, with copious amounts of codeine and Jack Daniels.

Live use: useful if you need some occasional sounds (eg sitar, banjo) or alternative tunings and don't want to lug around or buy a bunch of other instruments. A great time saver for slide guitar stuff. But none of the models or alternative tunings will beat the real thing in terms of sound or feel. Also, the more "by itself" the guitar, the more it is apparent its modeled, although in a band or mix it holds up OK. Straight tuning regular guitar models hold up OK, though, as do the mag pickups, especially if tweaked via Helix. Studio use: similar to above, models and tunings can be useful and a time saver in the studio if the real thing isn't available, and if the instrument will be blended in a mix. I've used alternative (slide) tunings for solo leads and they hold up OK, but I put on heavier strings. As a guitar: I always favor my non-modeled guitars over the Variax. I would never recommend one as an "only" electric guitar. This also holds true for my Variax acoustic vs real acoustic. But I would never sell my Variaxes because when I need them, I need them — they can be a time and money saver if you gig and record regularly. Resonators: I bought a New Republic Delta Rocket Resonator guitar a few years back and have been really happy with the quality for the money. http://republicguitars.com

You don't have to get an XT or X3.....the cheapest path is to get a USB dongle, connected like (Variax guitar --> Variax cable or RJ-45 cable --> USB dongle --> USB cable --> computer) AND Variax --> guitar cable --> amp (to monitor your tones). https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Workbench--line-6-variax-workbench?mrkgcl=28&mrkgadid=3248788736&rkg_id=0&product_id=Workbench&campaigntype=shopping&campaign=aaShopping - Core - Software & Plug-ins&adgroup=Software & Plug-ins - Plug-ins: Virtual Instruments&placement=google&adpos=1o1&creative=209288398304&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CjwKCAjwpIjZBRBsEiwA0TN1r73qZDms_x5Q_KvZkDBMEaUzDmRnWivdbrhrw6-JYAoaEMyiWJBiyBoCrFgQAvD_BwE the $99 kit includes the sw, RJ-45 cable, USB cable, and the dongle. A used POD is more fun, though, and more reliable for the connection.

There are plenty of articles in the forums and on the site. But you'll need to use the "original" version of Workbench, and not the newer HD version. You'll also need a USB dongle to connect to your PC or Mac. Also install Line 6 Monkey. There are lots of steps to getting the Variax connected properly to Workbench, but its worth the effort. Learn to fish. Here's a sample forum thread ... there are many more on using Workbench:

Native runs fine in Garageband, so it should work out for you. Use a Garageband audio track, and insert the Helix Native AU plug-in on it. There are plenty of online GarageBand online articles if you need help. You may need to manage your tracks carefully, as Helix Native is a bit of a CPU hog and latency can be a problem if you have a lot of tracks. Hopefully your laptop has enough horsepower.

If you can get the discount on Helix Native, its seriously worth it. An advantage of Helix Native I forgot to mention is using your DAW's automation to automate any Helix parameter in real-time with your recording song. You can do the same thing by using MIDI out to a Helix floor, but its more convoluted. With Helix Native its simple, and powerful.

Convenience. Actually, its better to record/track your guitar parts using the floor unit because you can monitor the wet signal with NO latency while recording a wet and dry track via USB. Helix Native is a bit of a power hog, and its difficult to record tracks without significant latency if you want to hear your wet, effected guitar while tracking. Best of both worlds is to have both, because its more convenient to fiddle with your settings and presets when mixing your finished tracks with Helix Native.

Try removing the ground from the laptop charger: use a three prong female to two prong male adapter (or similar for your country). Or plug your laptop into a power conditioner thats plugged into a separate ac circuit. Get the danged thing out of here.

Variax 500: https://line6.com/legacy/variax500/ To really know which firmware is installed you'd need to check it with Workbench, I think.

...what cruisinon2 said is all you need to know.

That's encouraging Phil, thanks. A few other neat things? Bring 'em on!

Yeah, works seamlessly in Native, and uses Snapshots also. My fave is the new 2.5 release, but others are good also. Some do use some horsepower in Native, but you can tweak as needed.

....after all the hip hop stuff, its refreshing to hear a song I can sing along with while making breakfast.

Jagman --- similar to what I'm doing these days; keeping the Helix stuff simple until I polish it later, and sometimes freezing the track. BTW, I picked up Fremen's latest set of presets (the V2.5) and its turning out to be what I try first on tracks when I want great tone without much fuss. And it comes with even more IRs!

I agree .... I could spend years playing with all of the amps and effects in Helix Native, but I've settled in on some amp and IR cab combos that I almost always use. Then I select effects based on the song I'm recording. When it comes to an update, my number 1 wish would be for better performance when using multiple core systems .... Helix Native can really load my system and DAW when recording. I've got more than enough amps for now!

Interesting experiment. I think the timing drifts because you guys were so separated and isolated, so there's a lack of cohesion and "tightness." The wash of reverb helps glue it a bit. I'm sure if you guys were jamming in the same room with some eye contact it would cook.

....and that's not really a different way of using it. It's common for players to assign Snapshots to the buttons and change settings for verse, chorus, leads, etc.

Personally, I'd like to see direct MIDI control support added, and a fix for the Logic Pro Snapshot automation bug.

From prior threads: "The way to think of it is that each Helix comes with a coupon for the Native discount, and that coupon can only be used once. Here's a snip from the Helix Native Terms and Conditions: * Eligible Products must be purchased as new from an authorized Line 6 reseller (an “Authorized Reseller”). * Eligible Products must be owned by the Qualified Purchaser for a period of no less than one hundred eighty (180) days in order to qualify for the Promotional Savings. Note the180-day minimum ownership requirement. This discourages short-term buy/sell of Helix devices simply to qualify for the discount. Line 6 tracks this and will/has revoked the discounted Helix Native license. For example, if the original owner of your Helix immediately obtained a Helix Native license and then sold/returned the Helix device in less than 180 days (not saying this is true) Line 6 will revoke the associated Helix Native license from the original owner if they discover the fact that the device was sold within the 180-day period. They would discover this when you register your new-to-you Helix device, specifying the already used serial number."

I've been happy with a used Standard (it looked brand new) I found at Guitar Center. After I set it up properly and put on some locking tuners (the original tuners were adequate) I've had no complaints. I prefer a thinner neck, so went with the Standard after comparing to a JTV in the store.

Here's what I do in Helix Native when I want to save a list of my setlists or IR lists (on a Mac, but should work similarly on PC): 1) in the preset list, select/hilight the list of presets you want to save (or hilight all of 'em) 2) drag and drop the list onto a text editor like Text Edit 3) the list should appear in the text editor as (example): /var/folders/pz/dmgj9t9d7n1gcpycx020br_w0000gn/T/US Double Nrm.hlx /var/folders/pz/dmgj9t9d7n1gcpycx020br_w0000gn/T/Essex A30.hlx /var/folders/pz/dmgj9t9d7n1gcpycx020br_w0000gn/T/Brit Plexi Jump.hlx 4) in this example, use a search and replace to replace /var/folders/pz/dmgj9t9d7n1gcpycx020br_w0000gn/T/ and .hlx with blank space. 5) I then put the list into Excel and automatically number it to match the numbering of the preset or IR list Does this work for Helix Edit? Dunno. But it sure might.

Tried different USB cables? Any change when wiggling the connector on either end? Any change when you touch metal on PC or Helix?