Mr_Arkadin

Hadn't seen that and I even have some of his music! LaMonte Young did some great well-tuned piano music: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fn2CJmFrUmU (Warning: this is a pet topic of mine so I have tons of this stuff and can whitter on about it for hours))

Straight-fretted instruments are always a compromise (which is a further compromise to the already compromised Equal Temperament system!), so that's how all guitars should really be made. I use Earvana nuts to get my guitars a little but closer to the correct ET frequencies without having to mess with the frets.

I think the problem with the second video is all the overdrive/distortion. There's a reason power chords sound cool with distortion and jazz chords don't, so microtonal tuning with distortion is a little pointless in my book as you lose any clarity gained by these systems.

No, 43 is enough. :D

Actually the twelve tone system we have is the one that's out of tune. We need to reeducate our brains to hear microtonal as 'normal'. I'm a huge fan, check out John Schneider's 'Just' tuned guitars (not always microtonal, but mathematically correct tuning). I'm going to go out on a limb and say that Harry Partch's 43-notes to the octave tuning might be a bit much for you to absorb.

Moved this to the Lounge as it seems more a general discussion rather than specifically HD. Anyway I would keep at least one modeller for quiet practising at least - unless you can play at any volume day or night, a situation most of us aren't in. In my current trio we plug guitars straight into the amp. That's it apart from a tuner. For home studio work I prefer the control modellers give you. Whatever works for you works for you. I'm just glad you haven't committed the usual forum suicide drama queen antics and declared how "Line 6 sux and made me hate music and I threw it all in the skip!". The important thing: keep playing and keep having fun, however you get there.

But at least us musicians were left with a choice, we don't have government bodies deciding what direction equipment is going to go. Buying and using a CRT, whilst not impossible, is fairly difficult now, whereas there are many modern valve amps available. Mind you, wide screen CRTs were friggin' huge. I had my 4:3 Sony trinitron up until about three years ago, that's how much I thought the picture was better. Sometimes it feels like the old NASA joke about spending millions developing an ink pen that could write in zero gravity, whilst the Russians used a pencil!

As it happens I work in professional broadcast television in the UK and yes we still regard CRT (or 'glass monitor' as we refer to them) as the level the plasma a etc. have to to attain. For audio they are necessary to judge audio sync to picture (all flat screens have some processing delay) and for colour grading they are obviously preferred as trying to judge exposure and colour balance on flat screens is a crapshoot. In my department I don't get the luxury of CRT so I'm often asking people to 'check it on glass'. There are some very expensive OLED monitors that are supposed to be what we call Grade One but I think they're at least £50,000 and still have the sync issues. So ironically it seems all our technical advances are aiming to get us back to where we already were with CRT.

It might help if you point to what you don't understand (i.e. tell us the document and page number etc.) and also what you want to achieve, as at the moment those terms are too wide-ranging to give you a specific answer. Mostly you're just changing presets (sometimes called patches) on the Spider with the footswitches. For some reason I've never understood, Line 6 refer to these presets as Channels (I think they were thining of amp channels, but I never thought it made much sense).

So I think you just answered your own question. Ask it again though, maybe the answer will be different a third time. 😉

On a basic level (i.e. not connected to computer) when powering up you should see the model packs in the display as I recall. Also when spinning through the amps you'll see gaps in the numbering. I can't remember exactly but I think the regular amps end around 36 and start again around 102. If you have amps between those numbers you have the amp model packs. It would also be an idea to check your firmware. You need I think 3.02 to be able to use the model packs. I'll have to look up how to see the firmware version from the Pod display as I can't remember off-hand.

In that case yes you would need to use the loop to hear anything in your headphones.

To be honest, where the loop is in the signal chain makes it fairly useless. It appears just before the analogue outputs, so you may as well stick whatever effect on the main output. Sure you could use a graphic EQ after the Pod, but stomp effects like a booster pedal I would probably place between the guitar and Pod input.

I'd have to check the manual - I seem to remember older Pods default to Cab/AIR on when you plugged in the headphones even on the main output. I may remember it wrong or maybe I am thinking of the POD 2. In any case, try it with the headphones unplugged to make sure you're getting the correct output to line.

Funny, people complaining about something that can be removed (unlike on a real amp). I've gone through the digital cleanliness of the '80s and passed through the other side (scarred, but still here) and I now relish things like BFD3 that give us the drum sounds WITH spill, rattles, vibrations from other drums etc. so a completely clean amp wouldn't feel right to me. Also, if I switch the set-up to 60Hz I can pretend that I'm recording my American album. :D

The headphones output always has cabs on. You need to monitor via the line output jack sockets to hear the effect correctly.

Have you read page 3.17 thoroughly? There are a few things you should note. The very last short paragraph is very important: the loop effect can be stored in the on or off position within a patch, so you may have the wrong setting stored in your patch. Also don't forget you can access menus from the small black button labelled "I/O Dig Select". That page also states it only affects the analogue outputs, not the digital. In fact this is really the only use I can see for the loop, as it is last in the chain just before the stereo outputs. In your case I assume you want the valve preamp sound all the time so may as well plug the stereo out of the Pod into the input of the effect as the loop really doesn't add anything in terms of control. Also have you thought of trying the preamp first in the chain? Is the preamp line level? Because that's what the FX Loop will be expecting. If the preamp is expecting a guitar input then I would plug your guitar in there and plug the preamp into the Pod. Also what software version are you running? This may be why the manual does not match what you are seeing.

Some description would help. What computer are you using? OS? Which browser? Which anti-virus? At what point in the buying procedure are you unable to use the shop? Are you able to put items in your cart? What happens when you cannot complete the purchase? Are there any error messages?

Well in my mind the term 'lead to believe' means that someone at sometime stated something. If no-one stated anything then you're left with you're own assumptions. And we all know what 'assume' does don't we?

I don't believe this was ever stated by Line 6. Could you point to a source please, I'm happy to be proved wrong.

Digital Igloo has already said its a typo and is trying to get the document changed.

Well semitone is the proper term and more meaningful. If you use any tech music kit you will know that -12 is an octave down. It's really not that difficult. How would you describe -5, as down tuned two and a half steps? Very clumsy and I'm not sure how you'd indicate that in a GUI. I assume it's one of those things that's come from America, like I say crotchet not quarter note because I'm British.

Not sure on your specific issue, but I've had other gear where the transormer needed screwing back down as it had worked loose over the years and was vibrating. Obviously if you open up you Pod to check unplug the mains power.

Now you can have some post-Christmas fun!

Line 6 Monkey is showing the firmware for the FBV. You need to use the 'change device' button and select your SpiderIV, then you will see whether the firmware is up to date (I suspect it won't be).