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How to Use the Mission SP1-L6H Toe Switch with Line6 Helix and HX Introduction Mission Engineering manufactures two expression pedals designed specifically for use with the Helix product line. The EP1-L6 is an expression only pedal and does not have a toe switch. It has one (TS) jack for Exp output. This pedal is designed to work with Helix Floor, LT, HX Stomp and HX Effects. The SP1-L6H is an expression pedal that includes a toe switch. This pedal is designed to work with Helix Rack only and has two separate output jacks. One (TS) jack for Exp output and one (TS) jack for the toe switch output. The toe switch is a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) momentary contact (commonly referred to as "non-latching") switch. This pedal is designed for exclusive use with Helix Rack. For HX Stomp - If the desire is to simply use the SP1-L6H toe switch as an external foot switch 4 or 5, no modifications to the SP1-L6H are required. It will perform that function right out of the box. There is no provision in Helix Floor, LT or HX Effects to use an external expression pedal toe switch as an additional controller or foot switch but with a mod we can utilize this functionality. Both pedals incorporate a 10K ohm pot for the expression output and both are built in the exact same enclosure/housing. The additional holes in the EP1-L6 have plugs installed in them. Purpose To modify either the EP1-L6 or the SP1-L6H so as to be able to utilize the toe switch output as an expression input to the Helix Floor, HX Stomp or HX Effects. Use Case The idea of utilizing the toe switch came up when a user wanted to use the SP1-L6H as a traditional Wah pedal. Meaning the toe switch would simply toggle the Wah block in their Preset ON or OFF. With a little imagination there could be many more use cases. For example, the toe switch could toggle on a Delay block and then use the expression to control the Delay's Feedback parameter. Or the toe switch could be used to set any parameter on any block, completely independent of what the expression output is controlling. The Modifications This mod is easily performed on the EP1-L6 pedal also as the housings are the same. The holes are already drilled and have plugs in them. Notes on modifying the EP1-L6 (non-toe switch pedal) - As mentioned above, both pedals are built in the same enclosure. These modifications will require the addition of a (TS) output jack (along with the additional components listed below) if you are adding this feature to the EP1-L6 pedal. Also, you may need to add a felt or other pad under the treadle to engage the toe switch. For HX Stomp Only - If the desire is to simply use the SP1-L6H toe switch as an external foot switch 4 or 5, no modifications to the SP1-L6H are required. It will perform that function right out of the box. Parts Needed 1 -- Replacement Toe Switch as described below. The stock toe switch for a Crybaby Wah is a perfect replacement. 1 -- 100 ohm resistor. 1/4 watt is fine. The 100 ohm value is a suggestion. You can use whatever low value you have on hand. The Exp Input just needs to see something when the switch is off, or Helix will default back to the onboard Exp Pedal. Whatever value you end up with, you will need to adjust the "Bypass Assign" "Position" parameter to match that resistance value for the parameter being controlled to enable. For a 100 ohm resistor this will be about 25%. 1 -- 10K ohm resistor. 1/4 watt is fine. * The 10K resistor could be a pot or trim pot if a variable output is desired. This could be used for more granular control of the toe switch's expression input to the Helix/HX. * For the purpose of this article, the above resistor values will be used. For the SP1-L6H 1. Replace the stock toe switch with a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) maintained contact switch. Commonly referred to as "latching". The stock toe switch for a Crybaby Wah is a perfect replacement. 2. Solder one end of the 100 ohm resistor to the N.O. terminal of the new toe switch. 3. Solder one end of the 10K ohm resistor to the N.C. terminal of the new toe switch. Note for Step 2 and 3 above: Since this is a Push-Push switch, the references above to N.O. and N.C. are not applicable, the point of using those designations was to indicate connections to the switched side of the switch and not to use the common side of the switch. 4. Solder the two (both) loose ends of the resistors to the Red (Tip) wire going to the output jack being used for the toe switch. 5. Solder the C (common) terminal of the new toe switch to the Black (Sleeve) wire going to the output jack being used for the toe switch. Note that the SP1-L6H used here, the one in the photo, was manufactured in 2016 and the output jacks are individual components. Later models have the output jacks mounted to a printed circuit board and has a ribbon cable. You may have to use an ohm meter or continuity tester to ID the tip and sleeve wires of the output jacks. DONE Setup For this example we will use the expression pedal with it's new toe switch functionality as a traditional Wah pedal. Pressing the toe switch once will turn the Wah block ON. Pressing the toe switch again will turn the Wah block OFF. For Helix and HX Effects 1. Select the Wah Block in your Preset. 2. Select Main Menu 3. Select "Bypass Assign" 4. Set "Switch" to whichever Exp Input you are using for the Toe Switch. 5. Set "Position" to 25%. 6. SAVE SAVE 7. Select Main Menu 8. Select "Controller Assign" 9. Set "Parameter" to "Position". 10. Set "Controller" to the exp input you want to use for the Wah function. 11. SAVE SAVE DONE For HX Stomp 1. Select the Wah Block in your Preset. 1. Select Main Menu 2. Select "Bypass Assign" 3. Set "Switch" to the expression input you want to use for the toe switch input. 4. Set the Position parameter to 25%. 5. SAVE SAVE 6. Select Main Menu 7. Select "Controller Assign" 8. Set "Param" to "Psition". 9. Set "Controller" to the expression input you want to use for the Wah function. 10. SAVE SAVE DONE Go play guitar.

Wasn't the Quadra either! There's a midi thru setting on the Zoia that was causing a midi feedback loop. Helix had midi in from Zoia Helix was going out to Quadra Thru which fed Zoia, Whammy and SPD-SX

The Amp1 has a four channel solid state preamp section and a hybrid classD/nanotube power amp.

I haven't used one but the BluGuitar Amp1 uses a "nanotube" as seems like it somewhat gets the tube thing?

HI, I keep tossing these ideas around also. I see there are a bunch of "Hybrid" amps out there that have a tube in their preamp and use a class D power section. On Amazon, I see several by Orange, and Joyo among others. I have no experience with these. My beloved Line 6 DT25 is the opposite using a hybrid digital preamp with a tube power amp with the flexibility to change amp topologies from within helix patches. It really sounds great. I still have to admin I use my Powercab+ 112 the most. But I found recently, If I hook up the L6Link cable to my DT25 first, and then a jumper to the Powercab+, both work together! I don't have the control over the powercab when I do that and there is no stereo, but I like getting a dual cab sound.

Well... It's 'very very easy' to dial in a sound... BUT... What's the difference between the kinky comp, red squeeze, rochester, LA Studio Comp and deluxe comp? When should you use one over the other? What's the best mic, amp and distance for a balanced tone? What would be the 2nd and 3rd 'best'? What changes when you move a mic from 1 inch to 2 inch? What about say if you want the David Gilmour tone of another brick in the wall, what amp & settings, cab, mic & distance should you be using that would sound closest? What's the difference between amp Bias and BiasX? Better of tweaking using amp drive, master volume and/or bias/biasX/sag/distortion r boost pedal or compressor, etc.?? What about amp ripple and hum should you turn them on or should you just turn them down all the way? As I said, the BK is more a plug and play. The PGO is more of a need a PhD in PGO theory to be able to understand what all the settings are and what they do. And there's soo many options... BK you have what, like 4-5 channels and like again 4-5 boss effects pedals at a time in the BK? It's just, to me, completely different philosophies. BK is more 'like a real amp' + couple pedals, whereas the PGO you're entering a world endless tweaking/options. Sure, you can 'superficially' use the unit as a 'simple' and 'quickly' setup sounds... But... It's just a more complicated philosophy. Ex; BK; you want the brown sound, use the brown amp (maybe you have 2-3 amps which 'fit the bill'), tweak them a little. But PGO has 100+ amps. Which are 'best'? Which settings with what amp gives you what you want? Is an Engl Fireball with drive at 4 closer to a german whatever or ingrid with drive at 7? What about master volume which also significantly affects gain/drive, maybe this other amp with this and this setting are 'better'? And what about the cab + mic ... !!! It's like setting up a tone with BK is an equation with 8 variables, whereas the PGO is an equation with 36 variables. But yeah, you don't have to tweak the 36 PGO variables, you can just tweak these 10, which will give you a 'tone', but because there's 26 other variables you haven't tweaked (because you've not learned what they do nor mastered them), maybe it's easier to get to the desired result using the BK's 8 variables; which just 'do more' in a much simpler way.

Sorry, I've narrowed the problem down to my midi splitter box, the Quadra Thru, from Midi Solutions as the source of this jittering.

I suppose I should have mentioned it in the first post, each device is on a separate channel. Helix -> Ch 3 SPD-SX -> Ch 10 Whammy -> Ch 11 Zoia -> Ch 13

I've used a friend's Katana 100 series one for a while before getting Pod Go, both for practice and in rehearsal. It's a very nice sounding amp (and beastly loud if you need that) but in my opinion with quality IRs you can make PG sound better. Also in rehearsal or gig scenario PG is much more user friendly when it comes to tweaking your sound on the spot, without hooking up a computer and running software editor. Katana's panel controls are somewhat limited. PG also offers many more ways of switching to different sounds or varieties of your basic sound. It also works better as a recording device, in my opinion. Expression pedal is also a nice option to have, not only for wah or pitch effects. However Katana is a self contained solution, with PG you also need and an FRFR or a power amp and cab, if you want to play with people. Being a bedroom warrior and not playing in a band anymore, I'm using PC speakers with PG and sometimes I just miss having an amp with its heft and true guitar speaker, if that makes sense. Are you more of an amp guy? Can you crank your noise making device up a little bit? Can you live with 3-4 basic sounds? If so, I would stick to the Katana. Do you want to mostly record, need many tone sculpting options and tweakability? Then go for the Pod. If you can afford that, try combining both :)

I have an old Katana 100 and the Pod Go. The Pod Go is significantly better from an effects basis and give's you more flexibility from an amp perspective. I simply use my Katana as a Power Amp going into the FX return ALTHOUGH I also play a lot through studio monitor without the amp. It's good to have the Katana as backup but I wouldn't miss it if it was gone. But the price difference between the two is significant. You wont regret buying a Pod Go. What I would say in reference to the last reply is that it's very very easy to dial in a sound on the Pod Go, much easier than hooking up the Katana to the laptop.

MIDI 101.... each device should have a dedicated midi channel and OMNI mode (on any device that offers it) should be turned off. I suspect each device is currently on defaults modes.... channel 1 and/or Omni mode (which listens to all channels). That means everything is listening to everything... which creates the chaos you are encountering. Defaults are quick and dirty to make sure sure stuff is working... but when you start adding devices you need to give them their own space (channel) to communicate.

Yes. It highly depends. Ex; is $500 a lot of money or not a lot of money for you? What does your current sound sounds like? What do you like/dislike about it? What are you trying to improve? Do you for instance think that your BK 'marshall' sound doesn't sound right or something? I'd say the most important question is; how much do you like to tweak? If you want to spend endless time experimenting and tweaking your sound, I think you'll get more out of the Go than the Katana; from what I remember seeing about the Kat; it's more a plug and play device. The Go is more like an endless puzzle; where you'll plug in your guitar to play, and end up lost tweaking and testing different amps, reverbs, delays, etc. So how much do you want to get lost in effects or tweaking? I think the performance should be comparable; you'll be able to get good/great sounds from both. Think the Go does more out of the box (you can download extra Katana effects, but can only use a few at a time from what I recall), and the latest fancy reverbs like Glitz, Ganimede, etc., likely will not have a Boss equivalent. The amount of compressors, delays, amps, cabs, mics, etc., also way higher on GO. So if that's what you're after, likely won't be disappointed. I've heard enough people rave about the Katana to be fairly confident that you can get very good, usable sounds out of it. So if you have good lead, rhythm, etc., sounds dialed in with teh BK, and you make equivalent effects in PGO, I doubt most would be able to tell which is which in a blind test. They'll likely sound quite similar, and probably not have one sound 'better' than the other; just a bit different. I think you should be able to reproduce BK sounds in PGO with some work, but probably get lots more flexibility, 'tweakyness (tweaking the sound exactly like you want)' and options with Go. But, imho, main 2 things: 1) how much do you want more?, 2) are you more of a plug and play or a tweaker?

Noting that I too am an old bugger who hates the weight of tube amps, but yes enjoys their sound. Have you tried a PowerCab using the speaker sim functionality - that 'might' work for you as a combined SS amp and 'in the room' speaker combo that is light weight, and conects digitally to the Helix. Full disclosure - I mix and match between PC+ in FRFR and DT25s depending on circumstances. My band has a preference for the DTs and I've not fully worked through the Speaker sim approach with the PC+.

A lot of the character of an tube amp is the way the power stage reacts/distorts/compresses when you push it. If you like the modeling in the helix (and I think it is great, btw), then by all means a SS power amp could be the way to go, especially if you are trying to cut down on weight. There are a lot of options out there for combining a tube preamp and SS power amp, it just depends on what form factor you are looking for. Since you mention going light (weight), you might consider separate units for the tube preamp, SS power amp and cab--that would let you mix/match to get exactly the tone you want without committing to having all the pieces in one cabinet. Not an exhaustive list by any means, but here are a few options: Carvin tube pre, SS power. Both stomp format: https://carvinaudio.com/collections/on-sale/products/x1-tube-preamp-and-100w-amplifier-combo Victory V4 tube pres: https://www.victoryamps.com/pedal-preamps Seymour Duncan SS power stages made specifically for all pedal setups: https://www.seymourduncan.com/products/pedal-amps Keep in mind, though that with this approach, the cab *will* color your tone if you are going with anything other than FRFR.

The forecast for the evening of 3/22/2039: Dark, with increasing light towards morning...;)

ok its working, Here is what I found 1st, make sure you back up your presets, I followed the recommend procedures by Line6 several times with no luck, I did change the process slightly and it works, maybe good luck but maybe its the difference Please delete the following files: /Library/Application Support/Avid/Audio/Plug-Ins/Line 6/Helix Native.aaxplugin (note:, I didnt have this directly but I did a search and found it and deleted it) /Library/Audio/Plug-Ins/Components/Helix Native.component /Library/Audio/Plug-Ins/VST/Line 6/Helix Native.vst /Library/Audio/Plug-Ins/VST3/Line 6/Helix Native.vst3 once all gone, I did the following Folder 1: /Library/Application Support/Line 6/Helix Native/ Folder 2: {user folder}/Library/Application Support/Line 6/Helix Native/ You may need to unhide certain library folders. You can do this by pressing Command+Shirt+Period when you're in the Finder window. Then I deleted the trash file on my mac, I opened the Line6 authorisation tool and deuathorised my Mac Restarted my mac, Restarted the Line6 Authorisation tool and authorised my mac. from there I reinstalled the latest Helix Native, restarted my Logic Reauthorised my Helix native by the login section at the bottom of the plugin and it worked. That worked for me. I stand by what I say, make your copy protection but not at the risk of a failing product for actual people who purchase the software.