stormstudios

THIS needs to be highlighted. It is one of the most important pieces of information in the manual. Adding to codamedia's post, I agree in #1 that the mix input should be there. Many people use it for recording even if they wouldn't use it for dual live paths. I use a dual path on my HD500 Pro so a mic is always plugged to that. On my HD500X, I rarely use the mic because it's my travel rig and I rely on the house, but it's nice to know the mic input is there. I do backup vocals and guitar so I prefer setting up my own 'angelic' bg vox settings on each path on the HD500 Pro.

the manuals contain great (deep) information....read the Quick Start, then the Advanced Guide, then read about the HD Edit software and then download it. Only then get on some videos. As pianoguyy said the processes apply the entire series minus some small things.

You don't have XLR out, so Yeah 1/4" output left into the DI box will work. The soundperson will XLR from the DI box for the longer run to the mixer / control panel / breakout. Turn your Master up full though or at least 85%.

This is the Pod HD Desktop (Bean)? According to the manual (https://l6c-acdn2.line6.net/data/6/0a06434dfd7b4f8c3843cd684/application/pdf/POD HD Advanced Guide v2.0 ( Rev A ).pdf), the System View has Studio/Direct mode which you should be able to set and run to the PA no problem. The sound person will probably set up a DI box for you to plug in to, so you'd be 1/4" out (Left/Mono) to 1/4" in on the DI. You could ask him/her for a stereo DI if you had some stereo effects you wanted to keep, but if it's a small gig they probably won't want to give you two channels. It should be absolutely no problem. How your patch sounds through a PA is a whole different experience though compared to your headphones. Good luck and let us know how it went so people reading this thread later have the update.

I found that the L 1/4" out was summed mono and was giving me that crankley digital thing over the top, so I plugged a 1/4" adaptor into the R output to avoid the summing of the two channels and that helped a lot. This may not be ideal for everyone but for me it gave me more consistent control in different situations. The L 1/4" output was too hot and then I'd have to program different patches for 1/4" out vs XLR out. Worth a try...maybe...for you kpsion.

I'm confused so I'll weigh in. I haven't used Live in years and I have a Pod HD Pro but I can get MIDI in to the Pod HD Pro no problem. It should be dead simple on the Pod HD Pro X. 1. MIDI will not work over USB. It says so right in the manual, so on to Step 2. 2. Hook your MIDI cable to the MIDI In on the Pod. 3. Hook your MIDI cable on the MIDI Out on your interface connected to the computer running Live. 4. Assign to listen to all channels on the Pod HD Pro X... MIDI Omni (or use a specific channel) 5. Set up a MIDI clip in your track in Live and ensure it's sending Bank / Program Change messages (not MIDI Notes) on whatever channel you assigned. 5. a. see reference doc https://help.ableton.com/hc/en-us/articles/209070489-Using-Program-Change-messages-in-MIDI-Clips 6. Read your manual section C2 6. a. see reference doc https://line6.com/data/6/0a06434c12b265244d498852b5/application/pdf/POD HD Pro X Advanced Guide - English ( Rev A ).pdf "Send a Program Change message (Value 0-63 for Preset 01A - 16D) for the desired Preset within the current Set List."

We have a couple of different scenarios but for the majority of the time, we send C to the drummer (mono) to his wired headphone amp and D (mono) to the bassist to his wireless or wired unit. We use A/B as a stereo unit for the vocalist and lead guitar as they work well together and want similar things. A is LEFT in the stereo wireless IEM unit. B is RIGHT in the stereo wireless IEM unit. A is the primary mix for the vocalist....full vocals, light guitar, click, cues, kick, and a mid-mix bass. B is the primary for the guitarist......full guitar, light vocals, light bass, synth/piano, and light audience track. If either wants to not the other they pull their in-ear out and focus on theirs but most times it works best to get a full mix but separate the elements for the front performers. It gave us more options than simply four mono mixes. The StageScape has been great for us so far.

How old is the electrical wiring in your house? Have you tried an outlet in someone else's home? (getting back to the most basic troubleshooting first lol) If its an old house and not wired well this 'could' be a cause. I'm making no assumptions I just had to ask first.

Awesome....that's even better then. Thanks. I should have dug a little deeper. I will try this when I get back. I'm with my rack unit at the current moment. This is great news and I appreciate your honesty and research.

my bad I guess and I did something wrong.....when I switched into the 8 effect switches mode the Bank still went up and down by 4 patches.....I'll have to try it again to confirm. I'm traveling with the rack unit right now so I won't be able to for a bit. Thanks for the help. I wondered why it didn't seem right.

I actually think this is one area that Line 6 didn't do enough user research and could have really made this more flexible for users. The 8 switches should be able to work in any combination. If you want ALL 8 for patch switching you should and the bank up/down would go up by 2 banks. Simple usability. On the flip side, I would prefer all 8 be assignable to effect devices and the up/down would just move incrementally through each patch up/down. Simple usability. The usability experts got their brains locked into 'I learned to use banks of four so everyone else must!' and they didn't explain WHY they decided to limit it....only that they did limit it and users are seeing ways this could be better...not that they didn't read the manual.

Are intimating that perhaps I've made another mistake? That's not very friendly of you. It's quite assumptive of a Moderator if you are. 1. Already confirmed I bought the Apple branded unit. ….with a big Apple on the packaging in the Apple section of Best Buy pointed out to me on the shelf by the guy with the Apple shirt who was an Apple brand specialist. 2. The wall mounted Airport Express only has a LAN connector so as much as I might have tried to stick it in a WAN connector that most definitely didn't happen. I mounted my cable to the LAN and had LAN babies because that was the only hole the Church of Steve Jobs was going to allow me into. 3. I fully reset the Apple Express (the one made by Apple) many times. So, I gave up on the constant resetting of the damn thing as recommended multiple times and followed multiple times…..and voila. The damn thing connected on my old network (without the screen option of Existing or Create New listed in the manual). The resetting of the unit was giving me the problem. Weird. I know. This is one of those times I shouldn't have followed directions. Thanks for your help guys.

Awesome list SiWatts. Thank you. I have only had the Green Text (#14) once. I have explored multiple iterations of this list as well. Following yours exactly I got stuck at #14. It's been spinning for 20 minutes so far looking for a connection.

Thanks SiWatts and boomer…not daft questions at all. It's always good to start at the most basic and your question helped. I am definitely in the LAN port but my Aiport Express is a 3-4 year old Express that plugs in the wall. It only has a LAN port. It is Wireless 'N' so it's not the really really old ones. So, is this my issue? I've got to buy the new Airport Express? I did get a new Ethernet cable to try differently and at least the M20D recognizes that it's plugged in Ethernet. It didn't with the other cable (maybe it's a crossover cable I heard about?). As for the network with the Mac Mini and the Express, yes that all works perfectly. Why couldn't I just have the Mac Mini create the wireless network? That should work too, correct?

Thanks for the input. You misunderstood my attempt at clarification. Yes, I bought an APPLE one. But there are different model numbers on some of them. I bought the A1277 or something like that. It does NOT work. It's Apple USB-Ethernet adaptor to an Apple Airport Express (as stated above "I have the Airport Express and the USB-Ethernet adaptor from Apple.") I have tried two different Ethernet cables and no dice. That sounds really cool actually to still have a USB port available. Thanks for that.

Sorry for taking this thread in a new direction but Search really sucks and I was not finding what I need. I am asking here because this was on the front page and is semi-related. I have the Airport Express and the USB-Ethernet adaptor from Apple. I have actually tried two Expresses and neither have worked to set up the wi-fi network. I have tried using with my existing network, creating my own network, and resetting each device to default and trying again. Why is this not working simply? I've tried it multiple times and with multiple Airport Expresses. Is there a specific model of the USB-Ethernet adaptor that is the only one that works? I have also tried two different ethernet cables. I have also tried using my Mac Mini to create a network and Ethernet into that. No dice. Can anyone help? I never even get the buttons for '...Existing' or 'Standalone'. I've spent hours on this simple thing.

Don't be so obtuse and keep bringing up old threads. Digital-sound already posted the answer and the solution. You've obviously missed reading it twice now. Read the threads you post in.

I have also decided to remove Trim Tracking from all our inputs. I am not sure if it has a random timer when it checks but I felt like it might have 'decided' to make an adjustment at a portion where the input was lower or silent (gated externally) and made a move to crank it. I am in the same boat as you. Was it a certain track / input that it was happening with on yours?

Definitely contact Line 6. They're very good with this sort of support. I believe their official parts retailer is fullcompass.com for that sort of stuff. http://www.fullcompass.com/brand/LN6/Accessories-Parts-Hardware.html

yeah the answer was correctly posted right below it....make sure you actually read the threads.

All I can think of then is a dirty pot on your controls....but since it's the 500X that's too new to be dirty enough to mess with your patches. You may need to open a support ticket unless someone else chimes in. Good luck. Very weird.

Do you have it all hooked up to a studio recording setup with DAW and MIDI (or MIDI over USB) keyboard? This may not be your case but the most common volume drops are when a keyboard is dirty or static gets in the pots it will send random MIDI signals as it connects and disconnects. Once you clean and reset your keyboard it is fine. Every few months I would get a volume drop on a channel in my DAW. If you're connected to a keyboard and computer with your device it's possible it's listening to this command on an OMNI channel setting. If you are just in a separate guitarist setup then this won't apply but since this is a rare one I thought I'd throw that out there. It's common for keyboards to send random signals from the pots.

I know this is old but I wanted to have the newest information in this thread. Mac Users: Download and utilize 'Clean My Drive' http://macpaw.com/cleanmydrive to remove your USB and SD Cards. This will remove Mac's infamous invisible files. Pro Tip O' The Day.

Did you fully comprehend this posted above? Then, you must assign an FX block in your HD500 to the FX loop and place it along your HD500's internal chain where you need it. I can imagine in that configuration, its going to be most useful with the FX loop block placed just before, or after the amp(s) or mixer in the HD500. Set all your levels to suit within the FX loop block Send and Return.

And hence the problem with the discussion.....there are still people who are saying 'it's fine and it works' and therefore still people buying a Line 6 device for it to simulate a Digitech Whammy. It is important for us to be clear there are issues with its tracking for those reading the forum to be fully informed. I have a Whammy because the effect is a decent 'pitch shift' but it is not a 'pitch glide.' So, I understand the issue has been for years and will not get an upgrade, but the point is to be clear so that those purchasing the itemes know what they're getting into. If you want a Digitech Whammy type device this effect doesn't do it fully. That's all.