ColonelForbin

Exactly! Those 'dent and scratch' photos all look flawless.. By comparison, this one is $70 more ($720), and looks like it took serious abuse in multiple locations! http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/VariaxStdBurstd2

A side note to all that; for some reason Sweetwater has a bunch of 'newly arrived' 'dent and scratch' variax standards for around $650/ea. The 'dent and scratch' thing has me hesitant, but curious to ask my sales rep what's up! four sunburst: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/VaxSTVSDnS four black: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/VaxSTBlkDnS one white: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/VaxSTWHDnS

Nice! I just ordered my FBV3 today; should be here tomorrow! Good luck with the gigs, hope they go well!

There are some threads about this; the Helix rack is the only option with a dedicated dry guitar out. I have the floor Helix, and tried wet/dry/wet with the FH1500, and I did it all wrong, so got weird/bad phase cancelling. Apparently, doing it right yields some really awesome sound though! -First wrong idea: I was thinking I could just run the main XLR from Helix to FH1500 monitors in, and also send mono 1/4" main out from Helix to FH1500 guitar in, on blank patch. NOPE! Then, I tried creating a send using Helix FX loop/send positioned after the amp model before the post FX; this also caused lots of phase cancelling, since I didn't have the post amp model 'wet' FX set to 100% mix. The basic idea - I think Line6Arne spelled this out somewhere - is you need to send guitar + fx + amp model to 1/4" into the FH1500 guitar in, and have the FH1500 set to blank patch. Then you need to set the mix on the post amp model FX to 100%, IE, delay, chorus, reverb. That signal gets routed to the XLR out and sent to the FH1500 monitor inputs. Then you balance the 'wet' levels with the 'dry' using the controls on the FH1500 (using the app is the easiest way) Arne made a diagram; will see if I can track it down.. http://line6.com/support/topic/19436-helix-firehawk-1500-best-connection-scheme-for-live-frfr-purposes/?p=149192 ArneLine6 Line 6 Staff Posted 29 March 2016 - 07:31 PM A lot of fun can be had with a routing where you create a dry send right after the amp/ cab into the guitar in and a stereo send with 100% wet effects into the stereo monitor in. Feeding the same signal into the guitar in and into the stereo in is dangerous in the sense of phasing issues and will probably not always work. The stereo input goes to the stereo system. If only the left side is plugged in it goes to the mono (center) system. The guitar in always go the the center system and the internal stereo effects always go to the stereo system.

Yeah, you can use the FH1500 as a powered speaker with HD500; just run either the 1/4" or XLR from HD500 to FH1500 monitor input (they are combi jacks). There is a trim control on the back of the FH1500; you will need to juice this up a bit if you are using the XLR from HD500, since it's mic level, but that works fine. There are also random options for doing things as others above suggested, with sending a copy of your guitar to be processed by the FH1500. I am using Helix with FH1500 and didn't spend too much time trying to do the wet/dry/wet thing - I was doing it wrong and causing phase cancelling, and never got around to working out a Helix patch to make it work - one of these days! I've been mostly using it for tracking / ProTools at home - using Helix as soundcard, sending the XLR stereo to FH1500 and the 1/4" to a pair of small M-Audio monitors. Works really well! I am tempted to get the FBV3 for controlling the FH1500 to use it's modeling and FX, but don't have any immediate need to do that, still have the HD500x as backup, and Helix is taking the majority of my attention anyway. FH1500 has similar offerings to HD500x; has some things not in HD series, and other amps that are in HD model packs and such that are not in the Firehawk collection. Similar, in general, same basic modeling, but the character of the speaker makes them more accesible, in that you are not worried about how to amplify the HD500. It is fun to feed a dry guitar copy to the FH1500 and run it parallel with stereo HD500 / Helix patches. In terms of high powered, all in one stereo speaker systems, it's priced well, weighs alot! 63 lbs - heavy, but not impossible to move around. Things to consider / compare with other similar speaker systems: -has bluetooth and an app - very useful! I keep the app on my phone while I am playing - the speaker modes are very useful, to cut bass response, to control the volume of the FH1500, and to access the global EQ. The bass cuts are wall mode (most bass cut), floor mode (medium bass cut), and free field.(no bass cut). There is also a control to set it to mono, stereo, or stereo wide. - has a single 12" speaker + coax speakers- some other options have two 12" speakers - Mission Gemini II, or some have mono so you would need two, IE Friedman ASM 12, Line6 L2, L3. - tilt back kick stand - cool idea; works well. lately I've been putting it on an amp stand; but the tilt back worked great when I had it set up in front of me more like a floor monitor.

Just saw it's in stock in Sweetwater! Anyone picked up one of these yet?

Good question Palico! - to Adagosto - always keep in mind when you are L6linking the DT25 and HD500x, they are linked with two-way data communication. For example, let's say you have the channel volume on the DT25 set to either 0 or max. Now, you change to a preset, and when HD500x forces the channel volume to how you have it set in the patch, it ignores the channel volume on the DT. Let's say the HD500 patch is set at 50%. But then something on the DT25 vibrates just enough for the HD500 to register a value change coming from the DT25. The channel volume on the HD500x says, "Oh the DT25 just said turn the channel volume up from 50% to max! OK! And then you are like, WTF?!?!?! Because that can be a steep volume jump! Or as Palico mentioned - the exact opposite, as in "Oh, the DT25 just said to turn the channel volume down from 50% to 0. OK!:" And you are like, where did my volume just vanish to? It is not all that common, but it can do it just from vibration, not often but sometimes. Once it moves enough to register a change on the HD500x, it will then tell your HD500x to match the physical position of the DT25 knob - in the scenario I presented, it will either max out the channel volume, or go dead quiet. When I was building DT-HD patches, I made sure to do fine tuning with the DT25 controls, then SAVE the patch in the HD500x. This will at least provide a decent starting point for having the DT-HD values at comparable positions. Problem is, those physical knob settings are likely to change from patch to patch; so unless you program all your patches to have nearly identical gain/channel volume/eq settings (not likely!) you are bound to have some amount of difference between the physical knob setting on the DT25 at any given moment as compared to the corresponding settings in the HD500x. I think the DT-HD master volume relationship also works same way. If any of those DT knobs settings are way off from the equivalent settings in the HD500x patch, and those knobs on the DT move even just a little bit, it could explain what you are experiencing. Good luck!

Yup; get a pedalboard that can fit both Helix and the G50, check out the pedalboard Glenn DeLaune uses Looks like exactly what you are trying to achieve! http://line6.com/support/topic/18246-live-rig-pics/?hl=gangsterusa&do=findComment&comment=145506 CNB PDC-4100G http://www.rondomusi...m/pdc4100g.html

Yeah, I hear ya! Every $400 counts.. I have the Helix 'regular' (floorboard, not rack) and I just put the G70 receiver on a little pedalboard next to my Helix, with a couple of Mission expression pedals. I don't use a snake, so can't speak on that, but I get other cables from Best-tronics, and they make a bunch of snake options, custom and otherwise.: http://btpa.com/Snakes/ http://btpa.com/Custom-Snakes-and-Enclosures/ What we need Line6 to invent is a wireless snake! Wireless 4CM? Cheers! p.s. the old Starblazers show is indelibly imprinted into my subconscious from my younger days! ""Prepare to fire the Wave-Motion Gun!" :)

I use a G70 with my Helix, love it! Sounds like you want Helix rack + Helix floor controller. Put your wireless with the rack, so the only long cable run is between the controller and the rack, which doesn't have any bearing on the tone. Also, Line6 has a b-stock Reverb.com store, G70 w/ warranty for $400 (instead of $500) https://reverb.com/item/1577618-line-6-relay-g70-guitar-wireless-system

https://reverb.com/item/1577618-line-6-relay-g70-guitar-wireless-system $400 Very tempting! I already have two of these, so, will pass on this.. Great wireless though! Love 'em. Cool little side note: one transmitter can transmit to two (or more) receivers simultaneously! I have one wireless set up with my Helix, the other with my stompbox pedalboard; and it's pretty cool to be able to play through two rigs at the same time without using any extra cables!!! Easy way to totally avoid noise, hum, ground loop, etc.

https://reverb.com/item/1222852-line-6-stagesource-l3t-powered-loudspeaker-system $800

Just got an email from Reverb.com with this link! https://reverb.com/shop/line-6-direct "Direct from Line6, manufacturers warranty included"

You could try turning up the 'return', lets you go up to +12dB on the Firehawk app for the FH1500 FX loop; and I would turn up the mix to 100% just to be sure. Check the button on the back of the FH1500 too; toggles the FX loop between stomp (instrument) and line - try the line setting? And check your global in Helix, 1/4" out can be set to instrument or line - try line.

Yup! Same here; being able to sound good anywhere from really low to really loud is great!

I imagine it should; it's treating the FX loop as an effect in the guitar signal chain, as if you were adding outboard pedals or something like that. I am still on firmware 1.0, never did the update! I think with the instrument/line level switch on the FH1500 fx loop, and the ability to tweak the return in the Firehawk app for the FX loop, and with the ability to make the Helix send line or instrument to the 1/4" outs, that you could make it work. It would give you the option then to have audio going into the monitor inputs, but not the XLR outs - a monitor feed, or click track perhaps>? Not sure time frame, and it was not an 'official promise' but Line6Arne had mentioned they wanted to make that option to route the monitor input to the XLR out something you can toggle. I guess an IdeaScale entry would be a good way to get that options voted up! Until then, I am staying happily put on firmware 1.0 :) EDIT...Vote 'er up on IdeaScale! http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Firehawk-1500-Monitor-input-to-XLR-output/817587-23508

Nice review, thanks! I am looking to sort out something like this for Helix + bass.. I jam with my buddies on Friday nights, and I trade off playing guitar and bass with the other bassist. Using his Hartke bass stack; been messing with a variety of ways to connect it all up, haven't got it dialed in quite yet. Any chance you can upload that patch to Customtone? I tried doing 4CM; I didn't realize his FX loop was switchable between serial and parallel.. Total mess. Had really good results running 1/4" from Helix to the FX return, thus far, that's been the best. Still not 100% dialed in with the bass to Helix, in terms of using aux vs guitar in, pad on seems to be required (active 5 string bass). Was also running to an L2t, and was overloading something, either in the signal chain or the L2t, sounded good, then sounded really bad. Went back to just using the Harke rig. Definitely sounds better in the recording when the Helix is processing the bass; bass direct off an amp with no mic on the cab sounds fine in the room, but sterile in the mix. Loving the Helix bass amp models!! I might want to also experiment with sending preamp signal to the Hartke and full bass model + cab for a direct signal to the recording; haven't got there with it yet. Been running full amp+cab to the Hartke fx return, and sending same thing via XLR to the recording, definitely need to work more on what I am sending to the bass rig vs to the mixer.

Evorgeloc is correct; the Pilots Guide does say something different from what L6Arne just mentioned: Factory Reset • Factory Reset: Simultaneously press and hold the Master Volume Knob and the *TAP as you power on the unit. * should be 'small encoder' (which is the button between the bluetooth and tap buttons)

I think easiest way is do a factory reset? I am using FH1500+Helix in the same way that you mentioned; I did not update the firmware after I saw the note Arne wrote that the new firmware alters the routing of the monitor in to the XLR out.. http://line6.com/support/topic/19381-factory-reset-urgent-help-please/?do=findComment&comment=145634 ArneLine6 Posted 27 March 2016 - 02:36 PM The factory reset is: Hold the small encoder knob and the big volume knob pressed while powering up. EDIT/NOTE: the FH1500 pilots guide seems to have a misprint; it lists a different instruction for how to do factory reset..

Used 3M dual lock to affix mine to a flat board. I don't think I can get it loose at this point; not easily! I can hold it upside down and shake it.. And I didn't have to take the feet off the bottom of Helix to do it..

Looks like the Digitech Trio Plus has an amp out, a mixer out, and an fx loop mono send / return. I looked at the TrioPlus quick start guide, and I am guessing the path might be something like: guitar -> digitech guitar input -> digitech fx send -> FH1500 guitar input -> FH1500 [pre fx + amp model + post fx] -> FH1500 fx send -> digitech fx return - > (to use the digitech looper) -> digitech amp out -> FH1500 fx return *-AND-* digitech mixer out -> FH1500 monitor input. This would send your guitar through the digitech for tracking / chord analyzing. Then it sends your guitar signal to the FH1500 for fx + amp modeling. Then it sends that signal back to the Digitech, so you can use the looper. Then it sends all of that to the FH1500 - you might need to mess with how the Digitech routes it's content - ideally you can tell it to ONLY send your guitar signal + looper content to guitar out; and send the Trio 'band' to the mixer out - this will give you individual control over the two levels, and will put your guitar through the center speaker system with the horn; and put your backing tracks through the other speakers. That would also help prevent any phase cancelling by duplicate 'dry' signal being sent to both the guitar in and monitor in. I also have an FH1500, and Helix - have been trying to do wet/dry/wet with Helix+FH1500, and I've been doing it wrong! I was getting phase cancelling because I was sending dry amp model to the guitar in; while also sending some amount to the monitor inputs in stereo. Anyway, I digress! Sounds like it should work; and I can tell you from my experience using the FH1500 at home, it sounds really good with backing tracks going to it - bass, drums, etc. I use it at home as a stereo monitor / speaker, connected to Helix as soundcard, using ProTools to record, and Superior Drummer as the drums. Lots of loud, and lots of bass! The app is very useful - and easy to use - I delayed using it, and I should have started with it. Lets you control the bass cut (speaker mode) for the FH1500 - which is very, very useful for taming the amount of bass. It also gives you access to the FH1500 volumes, so you can easily balance the levels. And it controls the global EQ, which is also an excellent feature. EDIT#1 - reading the more in depth manual it says the outputs are auto-sensing on the Trio Plus, and functionality will change depending on what is connected.. 1. FX SEND Jack Connect this output to the input of an external guitar effect stomp box or pedalboard. See 'Using External Effects Connected To The FX Loop' on page 16 for more information. 2. FX RETURN Jack Connect the output of an external guitar effect stomp box or pedalboard to this input. See 'Using External Effects Connected To The FX Loop' on page 16 for more information. 3. AMP OUT Jack Connect this output to the input of a guitar amplifier. Note that the output jacks are auto-sensing and output functionality will change depending on which outputs are connected. See 'Output Jack Operation' on page 15 for more information. 4. GUITAR IN Jack Connect your guitar to this jack. The guitar signal fed to this jack should be unprocessed. If using external effects, they should be connected to the FX SEND and RETURN jacks. 5. MIXER OUT Jack Connect this output to the line input of a mixer. Note that the output jacks are auto-sensing and output functionality will change depending on which outputs are connected. See 'Output Jack Operation' on page 15 for more information. http://rdn.harmanpro.com/product_documents/documents/3738_1453332231/TrioPlus_Manual_5064509-A_original.pdf http://rdn.harmanpro.com/product_documents/documents/3729_1452288323/TrioPlus_Quick_Start_5064507-A_original.pdf EDIT#2: check this out! NOTE: When only the AMP OUT jack is used, an inverse cabinet emulation is added to the bass and drums signal. See 'Output Jack Operation' on page 15 for more information." EDIT#3: when connecting both guitar out and mixer out, it automatically does what you need - guitar only to guitar out and backing tracks only to mixer out.. NOTE: When connected to both the MIXER and AMP OUT jacks, the guitar signal will be fed to the AMP output and the bass and drum parts will be fed to the MIXER output. See 'Output Jack Operation' on page 15 for more information

Yeah, L6Arne and others had mentioned before about the 100% wet, but apparently I didn't understand what they were referring to! I will have to revisit this idea. If anyone comes up with some more patches / templates that achieve this, let me know!! Sounds like I was feeding some amount of dry into the stereo signal. Gives me some ideas for how to use exp pedals. Instead of controlling the dry send with an exp pedal, it makes more sense to control the wet send with exp3 and control the master volume to all sends with exp2, wah stays as exp1.. I am actually quite pleased to know it was just me mucking things up! That can be corrected and adjusted:) Seems like the gear is performing as expected; pysched to give this another try. Cheers!

New Helix Day! I would have been very tempted to find some reason to not be at work :) After you check out the factory presets, and download some (free) Customtone patches - (lots of decent tones there!) - if you care to splurge some $$, check out the commercial patches by Glenn DeLaune.. Good stuff, lots of good very 'immediately useful' patches in his bundles. He did those all 'pre editor release', so for me they were extra valuable - I am among those with some lower back and neck issues - so I can't sit on the floor in front of Helix to edit, and I can't sit in a chair and lean over the thing either. I can edit it from a desktop position, but I can't play it that way. I think he just grouped together an 'everything so far' bundle, includes all the artists presets, and everything he's done thus far. I bought them all as they were released, and I am still working my way through them all to get ideas of how to build my own. But with the editor out now, you are getting on board at a good time! Way easier to have Helix on the floor and editor on the computer screen. Good times, welcome, cheers, and have fun! What kind of speakers / amp are you looking at using with it?

+1 to that! Yup, same here! I actually set my DT25 up for dual use - I blanked the amp/cab models on all four voicings of channel B, for use with Helix, and set them to their corresponding topo I-IV. Then I set up four amp/cab/topo voicings on channel A, to use with my 'regular' pedalboard, in 4CM. I mostly just use the Plexi bright with that board, but I loaded up three other amp/cab pairings that give me a little cleaner and a little dirtier. Helix has been taking most of my time lately though!

The easiest thing to do is go get a MIDI interface (I believe the M-Audio UNO would be a low cost option) that will connect to your laptop, and use the Windows user created DtEdit software, or the Mac user created Dt Customizer software.. . For what you already have, I think TouchOSC, designed to work with iPad, iPhone, etc., paired a MIDI mobilizer. https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/touchosc/id288120394?mt=8 I will need to defer to others on the specifics of how you can actually do it with an iPad and the MIDI mobilizer - I have only used Windows with an older m-audio soundcard.. Here is an archived thread that discusses it, they mention needing to use iTunes to load templates through the mobilizer~ http://line6.com/supportarchivenew/thread/89073/ Saw this on GearPage: http://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/dt25-how-to-edit-and-load-models.1196858/ For what it's worth, here are the MIDI-DT guides, with all the MIDI cc values and their corresponding DT settings: http://line6.com/media/dt50/DT_MIDIGuide_v2_0_RevA_English.pdf http://line6.com/media/dt50/DT25_MIDI_CC_Reference_v2_0_RevA_English.pdf