jaminjimlp

yeah I found this in the states http://www.cableorganizer.com/over-expanded-pet/ Extra expandable braided sleeve can open nearly four times its original size, allowing easy installation over cables with large connector end faces - perfect forautomotive or marine application its about $37 US for a 100' X 1/2" spool

They all look like great ideas but the last one looks most practical just because you could change out any single cable pretty easy even though the first one is real nice and life time warranty if you had a problem and had to send it back that could take some time. I think I will look into the last one for my XLR pair and a extension cord, thanks for posting this I hadn't even thought about it.

I don't have a variax so I don't know.... Is it not possible to have a separate variax model for each path? that would be a cool thing to add if helix doesn't at the moment then you could have a acoustic exiting one path and a full blown metal tone out the other or guitar and a bass... In the preset I shared both paths exit without going though each other. I have updated the preset even more this weekend and will add it to the link when I get a chance for anyone who would like to use it. oh and the IR goes in IR slot #6 not #5. That's how my preset is set up already.

There are 4CM templates in the last preset bank as well as others but I haven't done anything with them myself I have seen them and wanted to point it out if you didn't know already...

these are the ones I have which ones did you guys like??? and scott you never replied about the 11 rack have you looked at it? whoa out dated?!?!?! I still have my ART SGX 2000 express and that unit I got in 1992 and it still has some awesome sounds, I think better than the GNX4 but not as good as the 11 rack and it can cut through the mix when the GNX4 can't (if you read what my experience was using it with a band). but I digress I updated because I wanted something I could tweak and get good tones on my own and I can with Helix... and it's compact (2 big things for me) I'm not looking for a fight here just pointing out what worked for me. I hope you can find what your looking for...

WOW this turned ugly really quick...... Dude I was totally serious about a count down timer I think it would be a great Idea and if you had not suggested a clock I would have never thought of it. when the joke was made I just played along and took it as a friendly jab and laughed. even when the point was made about an internal battery was made I still thought, hey the countdown timer will still work. I love the idea but at the same time thought I don't want to sacrifice DSP to get it so a "count down block" would be great if you have enough room left to use it just like the other blocks.

That looks like some kind a newfangled digital thingy I'm not sure if I would understand how to work it and maybe I can velcro it right to the front of the Helix and put a light on it so I could see the numbers.

This is true, a guy who makes great presets said before about IR's and stuff that after about 15 min of swapping IR cabs or whatever that your "ears are fried" and IR you go through say. 50 or 100 ir's you won't be able tell much difference and you need to walk away for a wile. have you loaded the latest firmware and reset the presets as well because the original presets were not very good because they had a problem where all the candidates somehow got changed to using the same microphone and don't sound the way they were supposed to. I can say when I first went through the first presets on firmware 1.0 that I couldn't find anything really usable in the whole first bank in the second bank of factory reset as I did like several of the sounds but once I loaded up the latest firmware and then did a reset on of the presets sounds 10 times better.

If you go to post an idea on there add a countdown timer I think that would be useful as well as to how much stage time you have left a lot of times we play with other bands at events and we only have a certain amount of time... So a countdown timer would come in very handy.

I play with my band and I also play church I have really enjoyed the helix but I haven't played too much around with the band lately since I've gotten I started to play at church again and always had issues even with my 11 rack. I love the 11 rack but there was just a lot of stuff to carry and a lot more hooking up and everything, but helix is pretty nice I can just run a couple of XLR's to the snake and hook up my two expression pedals and plug in my guitar and my G 50 relay, it makes it much easier and not to mention that I have much better control now than I ever did. I totally love it.

You know I meant to say in my other post but it was getting to long, one thing that I remember hearing Michael Angelo say when talking about his tone was "you know how most people when dialing in there tone cut the mids somewhat or all the way? I crank my mids all the way up to the max" and that guys guitar is in your face!!! and seriously share that preset please... check out the 11 rack too its in your price range and is 10X better than the GNX4....

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/a6ja1ccg9opnsvu/AAANth50j9N_AJMVN2ykjfJua?dl=0 Try this, it is an acoustic preset I made that has the 2 paths separate with just moving the EXP 2 (if you don't have an EXP just re-assign it to EXP1) the other sound is kinda well ... metal I am sure you will need to tweak it to your liking as this was saved when I first made the preset and have tweaked it a lot more for myself. the Taylor ir needs to be at the 5th position in you ir list (I think) my guitar sounds better or more like an acoustic using both pick ups or the neck pick up. I have EMG 81 and 85. I have found this preset to be all I need when I play at church.

Hey bro, I have an old GNX4 and the preset disk made by a 3rd party (the good ones) I forget the name right now... I got it about a year or 2 ago when I was using my 11 rack for most playing out but wanted something I could leave at church and was easy to carry so at $80 bucks I thought hey how bad could it be it was a lot newer than my art sgx 2000 so how bad could it be? I got it, I thought it sounded great but when I played with the band it was like no matter how much louder I was I got lost in the mix and couldn't hear myself. I asked on the 11 rack forum about it and a fellow on there who owned it as well at one time (singtall) told me "that was the problem" with the GNX4 he explained that the digital "fizz" that the models had took so much mid range cut to sound good that you just couldn't cut though the mix with it and there is no "fix" except another MFX peddle and it was pretty much better as a door stop. I love the sound I got from my 11 rack and still have it but dialing in tones for me was a chore but with the help of singtall, it is a bad boy... but I wanted to get the Helix for the fact it was an all in one floor unit and I can dial up a tone easily I love it. if you wan't something in the $600 range try out the 11 rack you get PT with it so its like they throw it in for free... or just look for a unit with the expansion pack on ebay and there around $300 the only bad thing is you need a midi foot controller also. so the "playing behind the band" thing may have been the way you were EQing your tones... I guess if you scoop out to much of the mids you just can cut through the mix... ( I'm not an engineer so I may have the terminology wrong) all that said I wanted to see if you would share that GNX4 preset with me so when I pass it along to someone they might be able to use it.

OK Get your mouse ready to mark "problem solved" or is it "best answer".... Here is what you need to do: buy 2 Helix's and an A - B Switch box connect them accordingly, set up your patches so that when you need to change from one to the other all you do is hit the A B Switch then wile you are still playing change the preset on the Helix your not currently playing through and then hit the A B Switch when its time for the next "Tone" if the changes are really fast between tones in a particular song well those "tap dancing" lessons your mama made you go to when you were a kind just paid off big time!!! and if that's not complicated enough for you. DI can make a MIDI controlled A B Switch and you can link the 2 Helix's together with the A B Switch and you can use a Midi controller with a computer attached to already have the programmed preset list send a signal to the Helix you are about to use with the preset your about to go to. (this is where a well trained roadie would come in handy and could do all this back stage for you as long as he doesn't get to drunk before or during the show) There now that wasn't so hard was it. I mean really, wasn't it obvious where I was going with this?!? (try to envision me patting myself on the back) WOW I'm like some kind of Einstein of MFX units I just know Line 6 is trying to contact me and give me a job right now as you are reading this.... Yeah I know it would REALLY work but the point is lighten up guys... I hope you got a laugh out of this as I did wile writing it. The weird thing is I had thought of this scenario back in 1992 when I had bought an ART SGX 2000 and a friend used it for a gig and said to me "there's to much time between presets for me to get one" who knew 25 years later we would still face the same issue. I do all I need to for each song in 1 preset and find it is sufficient for me.

Really you don't need to use an a-b switch here you can just have them in the same path. Just one block "on" and one block "bypassed", both assigned to the same toggle. and save it of course.

From: http://missionengineering.com/ Wiring. Most potentiometers have three connectors; Clockwise, Counter-clockwise, and Wiper. Amazingly, there are multiple different ways these can be wired, all achieving largely the same result, which means yet more variations for expression pedals. The most common expression pedal wiring is to connect the pot to a 1/4″ stereo (TRS) instrument jack as follows: CW —— Sleeve Wiper — Tip CCW —– Ring An alternative is with the tip and the ring reversed as follows: CW —— Sleeve Wiper — Ring CCW —– Tip Yet a third way is as follows: CW —— Sleeve Wiper — Tip CCW —– Tip In this last one, the wiper and CCW are bonded together and connected to the tip and the ring is unused. This requires the use of a mono (TS) cable such as a regular guitar cable, in place of the stereo (TRS) cable used in the other two. These three are the most common that we see in expression pedals, but we keep finding more. Sometimes a dual gang potentiometer is wired in parallel to create a single pot with half the resistance. For example you may see a dual 20K Ohm potentiometer bridged into a single 10K. In this case the pedal will function the same as if it were a native 10K Ohm single pot. ..................................... OK so now we know we can do this: This also alleviated the backwards operation problem and the 0 - 100 - 0 problem... The third way is the Line 6 way. (after some google searches I found this out) which means after the conversion you don't need to use TRS cables anymore you can use TS cables. Also now with either the 12k ohm pot in the one and the 10k ohm pot in the other I get full 0% to 100% on the Helix control. here is what I did to make mine compatible so there would be no need for re configuring. the Potenteiometer on this 1 is 10k Here is before here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same. also I jumped out the black on the side pot that is for changing the "throw" of it to disable it and not doing it made it have issues when you adjusted it it would not go back to full throw. (If that makes any scents to you) My other one here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same. this model had a duel 24k pot and I soldered each connection 1,2 and 3 to 1,2 and 3 (you see it better in the picture above) making it a single 12k pot This can be done with a soldering iron with no extra solder. just heat up the green wire pull it off and put it on with the red and heat it up to connect it. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I am re-posting this from another thread on the same thing ALSO: from yet another post.... Really you could take an old crybaby or Vox waH and just rewire it and it would work the same. Here is one new: http://www.guitarcen...ffects-Pedal.gc Most wah wahs have a 100k or a 250K potentiometer, most expression pedal seem to have something around 10k to 25K, after doing a little research there is some folks that said they have used 250 K pot and rewired a Wawa pedal to work as an expression pedal and it worked fine or you can just buy a new potentiometer (thank sure it is linear and not audio taper or logarithmic) for an expression pedal and put it in if you have to but I would try to go ahead and wire it up first according to the way that I have explained above. Remember you don't have to worry about getting tip ring sleeve input jacks just tip sleeve is all you need and is what is already on a Wawa pedal

From: http://missionengineering.com/ Wiring. Most potentiometers have three connectors; Clockwise, Counter-clockwise, and Wiper. Amazingly, there are multiple different ways these can be wired, all achieving largely the same result, which means yet more variations for expression pedals. The most common expression pedal wiring is to connect the pot to a 1/4″ stereo (TRS) instrument jack as follows: CW —— Sleeve Wiper — Tip CCW —– Ring An alternative is with the tip and the ring reversed as follows: CW —— Sleeve Wiper — Ring CCW —– Tip Yet a third way is as follows: CW —— Sleeve Wiper — Tip CCW —– Tip In this last one, the wiper and CCW are bonded together and connected to the tip and the ring is unused. This requires the use of a mono (TS) cable such as a regular guitar cable, in place of the stereo (TRS) cable used in the other two. These three are the most common that we see in expression pedals, but we keep finding more. Sometimes a dual gang potentiometer is wired in parallel to create a single pot with half the resistance. For example you may see a dual 20K Ohm potentiometer bridged into a single 10K. In this case the pedal will function the same as if it were a native 10K Ohm single pot. ..................................... OK so now we know we can do this: This also alleviated the backwards operation problem and the 0 - 100 - 0 problem... The third way is the Line 6 way. (after some google searches I found this out) which means after the conversion you don't need to use TRS cables anymore you can use TS cables. Also now with either the 12k ohm pot in the one and the 10k ohm pot in the other I get full 0% to 100% on the Helix control. here is what I did to make mine compatible so there would be no need for re configuring. the Potenteiometer on this 1 is 10k Here is before here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same. also I jumped out the black on the side pot that is for changing the "throw" of it to disable it and not doing it made it have issues when you adjusted it it would not go back to full throw. (If that makes any scents to you) My other one here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same. this model had a duel 24k pot and I soldered each connection 1,2 and 3 to 1,2 and 3 (you see it better in the picture above) making it a single 12k pot This can be done with a soldering iron with no extra solder. just heat up the green wire pull it off and put it on with the red and heat it up to connect it. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I am re-posting this from another thread on the same thing ALSO: from yet another post.... Really you could take an old crybaby or Vox waH and just rewire it and it would work the same. Here is one new: http://www.guitarcen...ffects-Pedal.gc Most wah wahs have a 100k or a 250K potentiometer, most expression pedal seem to have something around 10k to 25K, after doing a little research there is some folks that said they have used 250 K pot and rewired a Wawa pedal to work as an expression pedal and it worked fine or you can just buy a new potentiometer (thank sure it is linear and not audio taper or logarithmic) for an expression pedal and put it in if you have to but I would try to go ahead and wire it up first according to the way that I have explained above. Remember you don't have to worry about getting tip ring sleeve input jacks just tip sleeve is all you need and is what is already on a Wawa pedal

just for future refrence for others coming to the game late........................... From: http://missionengineering.com/ Wiring. Most potentiometers have three connectors; Clockwise, Counter-clockwise, and Wiper. Amazingly, there are multiple different ways these can be wired, all achieving largely the same result, which means yet more variations for expression pedals. The most common expression pedal wiring is to connect the pot to a 1/4″ stereo (TRS) instrument jack as follows: CW —— Sleeve Wiper — Tip CCW —– Ring An alternative is with the tip and the ring reversed as follows: CW —— Sleeve Wiper — Ring CCW —– Tip Yet a third way is as follows: CW —— Sleeve Wiper — Tip CCW —– Tip In this last one, the wiper and CCW are bonded together and connected to the tip and the ring is unused. This requires the use of a mono (TS) cable such as a regular guitar cable, in place of the stereo (TRS) cable used in the other two. These three are the most common that we see in expression pedals, but we keep finding more. Sometimes a dual gang potentiometer is wired in parallel to create a single pot with half the resistance. For example you may see a dual 20K Ohm potentiometer bridged into a single 10K. In this case the pedal will function the same as if it were a native 10K Ohm single pot. ..................................... OK so now we know we can do this: This also alleviated the backwards operation problem and the 0 - 100 - 0 problem... The third way is the Line 6 way. (after some google searches I found this out) which means after the conversion you don't need to use TRS cables anymore you can use TS cables. Also now with either the 12k ohm pot in the one and the 10k ohm pot in the other I get full 0% to 100% on the Helix control. here is what I did to make mine compatible so there would be no need for re configuring. the Potenteiometer on this 1 is 10k Here is before here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same. also I jumped out the black on the side pot that is for changing the "throw" of it to disable it and not doing it made it have issues when you adjusted it it would not go back to full throw. (If that makes any scents to you) My other one here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same. this model had a duel 24k pot and I soldered each connection 1,2 and 3 to 1,2 and 3 (you see it better in the picture above) making it a single 12k pot This can be done with a soldering iron with no extra solder. just heat up the green wire pull it off and put it on with the red and heat it up to connect it. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I am re-posting this from another thread on the same thing ALSO: from yet another post.... Really you could take an old crybaby or Vox waH and just rewire it and it would work the same. Here is one new: http://www.guitarcen...ffects-Pedal.gc Most wah wahs have a 100k or a 250K potentiometer, most expression pedal seem to have something around 10k to 25K, after doing a little research there is some folks that said they have used 250 K pot and rewired a Wawa pedal to work as an expression pedal and it worked fine or you can just buy a new potentiometer (thank sure it is linear and not audio taper or logarithmic) for an expression pedal and put it in if you have to but I would try to go ahead and wire it up first according to the way that I have explained above. Remember you don't have to worry about getting tip ring sleeve input jacks just tip sleeve is all you need and is what is already on a Wawa pedal

From: http://missionengineering.com/ Wiring. Most potentiometers have three connectors; Clockwise, Counter-clockwise, and Wiper. Amazingly, there are multiple different ways these can be wired, all achieving largely the same result, which means yet more variations for expression pedals. The most common expression pedal wiring is to connect the pot to a 1/4″ stereo (TRS) instrument jack as follows: CW —— Sleeve Wiper — Tip CCW —– Ring An alternative is with the tip and the ring reversed as follows: CW —— Sleeve Wiper — Ring CCW —– Tip Yet a third way is as follows: CW —— Sleeve Wiper — Tip CCW —– Tip In this last one, the wiper and CCW are bonded together and connected to the tip and the ring is unused. This requires the use of a mono (TS) cable such as a regular guitar cable, in place of the stereo (TRS) cable used in the other two. These three are the most common that we see in expression pedals, but we keep finding more. Sometimes a dual gang potentiometer is wired in parallel to create a single pot with half the resistance. For example you may see a dual 20K Ohm potentiometer bridged into a single 10K. In this case the pedal will function the same as if it were a native 10K Ohm single pot. ..................................... OK so now we know we can do this: This also alleviated the backwards operation problem and the 0 - 100 - 0 problem... The third way is the Line 6 way. (after some google searches I found this out) which means after the conversion you don't need to use TRS cables anymore you can use TS cables. Also now with either the 12k ohm pot in the one and the 10k ohm pot in the other I get full 0% to 100% on the Helix control. here is what I did to make mine compatible so there would be no need for re configuring. the Potenteiometer on this 1 is 10k Here is before here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same. also I jumped out the black on the side pot that is for changing the "throw" of it to disable it and not doing it made it have issues when you adjusted it it would not go back to full throw. (If that makes any scents to you) My other one here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same. this model had a duel 24k pot and I soldered each connection 1,2 and 3 to 1,2 and 3 (you see it better in the picture above) making it a single 12k pot This can be done with a soldering iron with no extra solder. just heat up the green wire pull it off and put it on with the red and heat it up to connect it. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I am re-posting this from another thread on the same thing ALSO: from yet another post.... Really you could take an old crybaby or Vox waH and just rewire it and it would work the same. Here is one new: http://www.guitarcen...ffects-Pedal.gc Most wah wahs have a 100k or a 250K potentiometer, most expression pedal seem to have something around 10k to 25K, after doing a little research there is some folks that said they have used 250 K pot and rewired a Wawa pedal to work as an expression pedal and it worked fine or you can just buy a new potentiometer (thank sure it is linear and not audio taper or logarithmic) for an expression pedal and put it in if you have to but I would try to go ahead and wire it up first according to the way that I have explained above. Remember you don't have to worry about getting tip ring sleeve input jacks just tip sleeve is all you need and is what is already on a Wawa pedal

Really you could take an old crybaby or Vox waH and just rewire it and it would work the same. Here is one new: http://www.guitarcenter.com/Vox/V845-Classic-Wah-Wah-Guitar-Effects-Pedal.gc Most wah wahs have a 100k or a 250K potentiometer, most expression pedal seem to have something around 10k to 25K, after doing a little research there is some folks that said they have used 250 K pot and rewired a Wawa pedal to work as an expression pedal and it worked fine or you can just buy a new potentiometer (thank sure it is linear and not audio taper or logarithmic) for an expression pedal and put it in if you have to but I would try to go ahead and wire it up first according to the way that I have explained above. Remember you don't have to worry about getting tip ring sleeve input jacks just tip sleeve is all you need and is what is already on a Wawa pedal

OK you have to move the green to the red you cannot just put a wire across and bridge them it doesn't work that way you have to take your green off of its connection and put it on the red. try that and see if it will work and this must be done on the Jack side not on the pot. leave the pot connected the way it is. make sure it is a 10 or 12k pot. The green and the red must be on the tip connection of the Jack. You only need a regular instrument cable you don't need a TRS cable.... If you still can't figure it out take it a few pictures of your pedal like I did so that I can see what is going on with your situation try to give me a good shot of the back of the potentiometer so I can see the ohm rating on it and also the designation Of 1,2,3 connections.

This is absolutely right and the "sensing" thing is an accelerometer like in your phone that tells the device that you have turned it to another position.

I have been using Dmx Cables for 3 years now they work great. Line 6 says the only thing they recommend is AES/EBU cables. you can use a regular mic cable as long as the ground is separate from the 3 pins but it may have bad connection issues. I have done just that when I was at the house noodling and was to lazy to get up and go get them from the other room. but to answer your question, find the best quality ones you can at the lowest price.

And if I was not clear enough in my thoughts on using the L2 VS the L3 I'll try to just make it real short and sweet and unless you're playing in a 7 string an 8 string or a bass just get some L2M's, you'll save quite a bit of money and you won't miss anything because if you were using the L3's you're not using the low-frequency driver. i.e. The Second 10 inch woofer because the crossover.

All this being said and yes it is correct but if you are looking to hear what your helix will sound like coming out of the FOH then well you're making presets at home with an L2 it would be better to use it on PA reference with the L6 link so that you'll have complete transparency and know what your sound will be coming out from FOH if you were to do it the other way without using FRFR set up then you are coloring the sound so it will not give you a true impression of what will come out of the XLR into FOH