codamedia

Are you saying the Standard is an LR Baggs Piezo (x-insert) in a Graphtec Ghost Saddle? I find it confusing that graphtech would make a saddle to fit the X-Insert when it has it's own piezo saddles? (The PN-8000's fit the Variax)

Did the music store update your firmware? If not... how did your Helix get updated? 1: I hope you remembered to install HX Edit 2.82 on the new computer. 2: When you installed HX Edit 2.82 on the new computer did you select to install ALL of the components/drivers? Are you saying the Helix reset itself to NOTHING with a factory reset? Or are you saying the it's just the factory presets and your custom ones are gone.

LOL - I love it.... From the other point of view. I lost my original cable the first day I used the Helix live. I buy these things for $0.50 cents each at thrift stores and keep a few on hand at all times. Long ones, short ones, multi-color ones, braided ones, etc... etc... Just keep the extra as a spare... from experience, you will need it some day :)

Why copy? That's just a good way to make a mistake. Export the Helix preset then import it into Native. Adjust the input level and see what it does! If you are using IR blocks.... are the same IR's being loaded? FWIW... My live preset in my Helix... when imported into Native... sounds identical once the input gain is properly set!

You could add that to a troubleshooting list... but I wouldn't put it at the top of the list myself. Why? Well, unless you already own those cables that is the most expensive option to try.... I never start with the most expensive option :)

This is what I am suspecting more than anything else... especially if it is only happening on one pickup.

In my experience... active EMG's will not be microphonic. They are most likely picking up a sound coming from the guitar itself. Does it happen on both pickups (individually).... or just one or the other? If it's just one pickup (or noticeably louder on one pickup)... it's the pickup screws or mounting ring If it's on both... I would look at other items such as bridge, tailpiece, etc... etc...

That sounds like the guitar to me... the Helix is just "amplifying" the sound it is being delivered. Does this occur with any other guitars? If not... that's your answer. Since the guitar is new... make sure the pickups are "solid" in position. No loose screws, no vibrating pickup rings, etc... etc... Don't stop at the pickups... check the saddles, tailpiece, and anything else that could vibrate. "The same way"? Are you saying the other amps don't do it at all, or are you saying they also make noise but sound different?

Is the noise there all the time or just when you touch the capacitive foot switches or other parts of the Stomp? What kind of noise it is? Digital static, analog hiss, buzz (120 hz), hum (60 hz)? FWIW... When connected via USB my Helix makes noise (I'd say digital static) when I touch the switches... and maybe some other parts - but it doesn't make any noise when it is just being used. I don't know if that is normal or not, I'm not concerned about it in any way. Fixes? Things to try? Make sure you are not plugged into a USB hub.... this would include the front USB ports on "most" computers. Try a different USB Port on the computer Try a different USB cable.... preferably ones with ferrite chokes. Ferrite chokes are the "bulge" before the end of the cable... their purpose is to eliminate/lower electromagnetic and radio interference. Many (if not most) USB cables are made with those. Try re-positioning the stomp...

If the input pad is turned on, and the 1/4" input is quieter than the JTV.... just turn off the input pad! That will likely solve it! Snapshots are your friend when you go this route. Your problem is INPUT... the global EQ is at the OUTPUT. IMO... it has a very specific "global" function to do... your problem is not "global".

Neutering is permanent... a default setting is more like a condom... just saying....

Why would you say that? With computers we are always told to never turn it off with the power switch... turn it off through the software. This allows the machine to shut down properly. Most of our smart phones and tablets are similar. Even if we press and hold a "soft switch" the device goes through a shut down routine. Even TV's and Stereo's have soft switches these days. The Helix is a computer.... I thought the OP was just checking to make sure there wasn't a "soft routine" he was suppose to be using. That's a pretty legit question in this day and age if you ask me!

Although there is no "shut down" routine, there is a "start up" routine. I'm not sure if it matters or not, but I will never turn my Helix off while it is booting.

The lack of mic positions (center to edge) in the Helix cabs does create limitations on what can be done. When you buy a package of IR's those positions are often included and can be the difference between a "reasonably satisfying tone" and a "great tone" for some users getting the tones "they" are after.

Pressing two buttons to open the snapshot mode is easy.... but I prefer to go a different route. I change my preset mode to "8 snapshots".... now the mode toggles between snapshots and stomp mode. When I need a new preset, I simply step on either the "up or down" button and that opens the presets screen/scribbles until I choose one. I change presets much less frequently than snaps or stomps... that is why this method works well for me. YMMV

I have owned and played several Tube Screamers in my lifetime... I have NEVER had two of them sound/react the same on the same settings. We will never experience the exact tube screamer Line 6 used for it's modeling (other than the model itself)... so direct 1-1 comparisons often mean nothing. (this applies to almost everything in the Helix) That said.... tube screamers (with a few setting tweaks) can be made to sound pretty much the same... and this video is proof once again that it can also be done with a "digital" tube screamer. The difference was no different that two different tube screamers... and in a blind test I would NEVER have known which was which.

No.... freezing and/or boot failure is not a common problem. Troubleshooting is about the process of elimination. If you keep connecting things the same way, trying the same things and achieving the same results, you will never figure out where the problem is. Have you tried booting the HX Stomp without being connected to the iMac? When it does boot, have you tried "running it" without being connected to the iMac?

You haven't explained how you are running your powercab. Is it in FRFR mode, or are you using one of the speaker modes? If it's the latter, then you should try capturing the signal from the Powercabs direct output. If you are using FRFR mode... through my experience I find it takes time to create tones that work everywhere. It's like producing a song... it takes work to make it sound good on the majority of playback environments. FWIW... I create my guitar tones are two sets of speakers... I don't strive to make it sound good on one set, I strive to make it sound good on both sets. Once they do, my tones translate nicely to almost any FOH/Monitor rigs I have to play on. Quite often... it's just a small tweak here or there to make it better on one set without having a negative impact on the other set.

Unless you need the other SEND on the HX Effects for something else.... you can just insert a STEREO LOOP instead of a MONO one? This still only requires a single block. As long as the previous blocks are mono I don't think it would matter which SEND you use... but you could use a Y cable if you were concerned. With a Stereo Loop the 2 Returns will be stereo. The other option would require two blocks. A mono send and a Stereo Return. That would free up the 2nd send for another use, but it would require yet another block to utilize it.

Myself, I'd go with a "pair" of studio monitors.

That describes a decent set of "Studio Monitors"... The biggest problem is "Primarily" in your first quote. Studio Monitors are not easily portable and will not cover a rehearsal or any gig! If you really think you will need something to play with other musicians, then go for something like the Headrush... just know it won't do a great job of listening to other music, but there are a lot of great consumer choices available for that.

I am a big fan of FRFR... but as @DunedinDragon says above, this is the sound the audience is hearing, not what you are used to hearing. Some people have a very hard time with this transition. Here are a few things you can try to see it helps you out. STAYING IN FRFR MODE ON THE LANEY You didn't say how far you had the distance on the mic. The more distance you apply, the more "natural" the cab starts to sound. It's like standing 1 foot away from a speaker rather than putting your ear right up to it. I find 4" - 6" back is usually the breaking point for richer, more natural tones. Insert the tilt EQ after the cab/mic on the Helix.... roll the Tilt setting back to about "dark 50" then adjust more/less for taste. This should add richness/depth to the tone as it simulates moving the microphone from the "center" of the speaker more toward the "edge" of the speaker, a common mic technique with sound techs. Instead of using the HI/LO cuts from the cab block... insert a Parametric EQ after the cab and use the HI/LO cuts from that. They have very different slopes, and many find the Parametric cuts more effective. (note: you are not using the parametric per say... just it's hi/lo cuts) There is always the IR Cab rabbit hole you can try if you feel inclined to do so. Plenty of free and paid options. TAKE THE LANEY OUT OF FRFR MODE.... TRY THE 412 or 112 SETTING This will take away some of the best things the Helix does (cab/mic) but it might provide a listening environment you are more used to Set the Laney to 4x12 or 1x12 mode. On the Helix, remove or disable the CAB/Mic block... The Laney should have a neutral power amp... I would recommend using full amp models (sans cabs) on the Helix.... but you could also experiment with some pre-amp models. Good luck!

All this time we keep telling new users how a Helix can do so much more than a standard pedalboard and amp can... we tell them they have to think more like an engineer, not just a guitar player - there is so much to learn and it's so wonderful once you understand that. Then deprive them of one of the very features engineers depend on! Worse, it is defended by suggesting the Helix is just a pedalboard and amp. I have one question for those that don't understand the meter desire.... Will a meter HURT YOU? if not.. why argue with those that want one... including the 2500+ that upvoted it on ideascale.... apparently to deaf ears! ALL THAT ASIDE I also don't understand the side wondering WHY NO METERS so loudly. Just make a polite request for a meter block, and maybe Line 6 will add one for us. If not - the unit is still quite capable. If you bought the Helix for Meters you deserve to be disappointed for not doing your homework first.

Don't forget to try cleaning the POT in the EXP. If it's just a dead point, you might be able to free it from the debris causing it.

I can't tell from the image.... but often web developers will place the most common locations at the very top of the list... then ALL others under that. EG: A Canadian company might put Canada, Mexico and United States at the top... then follow it everything else. Scroll to the top of the list to see if it is there.