codamedia

Did you contact them through the proper support channels?... as said earlier, these are USER forums, not official support. Also - keep in mind it is the Christmas season and L6 is a small company. Support could be a little slow until the new year.

Even though I am fortunate in this regard.... I know your problem is very real! SHORT APPROACH Simplified/generalized... Fletcher Munson will trick you into adding too much bass/treble to your tone to make it sound bigger at low volume. On a gig that sound becomes boomy, thin, shrill - and often can't be heard in a mix regardless of how much you turn up. Quick Fix: Turn down the bass/treble a little... and add a little mids. This may effect the depth of some effects... so they may need a small tweak or two as well. LONG APPROACH (this helps you fully understand what is going on by actually experiencing it) 80 - 85db is minimum to reducing/removing Fletcher Munson. Gig volume for me is around 90db - 95db. If that is not possible at home... then be prepared to tweak your tones at rehearsal. Sometimes a small tweak or two is needed on the gig to get a new tone right, but I like to keep that to a minimum whenever possible. Once your tone is working at gig level.... use it to your advantage at home. Take that tone home and listen to it at the level you are allowed to play at home. This will be hard at first... Listen to that tone at the lower volume of home, and take notes of how it sounds Get your ears used to that sound... and use it as a reference for all other sounds moving forward. PREPARE YOURSELF More than likely... it will sound a little lifeless/dull - that's OK! Dont' change it! More than likely... you will have the urge to turn up the bass/treble/presence. That is a normal response, but don't change it! Over time you will get "pretty good" at dialing in tones at lower volumes. The trick is having a good reference tone that you trust. HINT: When you create a tone at home... make a copy of it. Later when you have the finished "Live tone" from a rehearsal or gig, you can compare that to the original you came up with and learn to recognize the common errors so you don't make those mistakes the next time.

If the problem is relatively easy to repeat on your rig.... submit a ticket to Line 6 along with a "preset in question". In your ticket provide the step by step instructions on how to induce the problem. IME: If they can reproduce the problem... they will fix the problem. If the problem is just random... I agree with @DunedinDragon ... it is likely the side effect of a machine that needs some maintenance (cleaning) and the 2.8 update was purely coincidence.

Which trem bar effect are you looking for? A soft vibrato or a dive bomb? There may already be options in the Helix I could suggest if I knew what you were after? Aside from the expression pedal or a foot switch... how else would you expect to apply the effect?

Don't get hung up on that... the LA2A is an amazing guitar compressor with a huge track record of it's own. LA2A, LA3A, 1176 Black, 1176 Blue..... Potato/Potahto, Tomato/Tomahto... ALL GREAT COMPS! Above is your answer from a reputable source.. it is an LA2A model

I agree with @DunedinDragon.... Since you are also asking about upgrading your amp,,, grab a Spider V and get used to how it all works. The money should be less than a stomp It will provide you with a good enough amp to solve those issues It will introduce you to modeling so you can start to get a feel for that. IIRC..... The Spider works well with headphones... so if silent practice is important, it should be able to accommodate that (someone please correct me if I am wrong) The spider will not have all the bells/whistles that an HX product will (stomp, effects, helix, etc...) but it is more than enough to get you going. FWIW: At this time I go direct to PA/Monitors with a Helix most of the time, but having a good amp is very important. I have those as well for when I need them. FYI: Your English is very good! Your questions were very clear and easy to understand :)

FWIW... the Stomp supports 6 blocks, the Helix supports 32. HX Effects supports 9, but no amps. The modeling in the Stomp is the same as the Helix.... as long as it is under 6 blocks you can make it work and it will sound the same. BUT you cannot just import a Helix preset... you would need to take it through Helix Native as mentioned above - or if you can decipher JSON code, you could open the preset in a text editor and manually enter the settings into the Stomp.

Yes - this works just fine and don't let anyone tell you differently. Your theory is 100%.... a pre-amp, EQ and speaker. It's how those are shaped that make amps unique. Here is something else you may want to consider.... which helps simulate the power amp section. Try throwing a very light compressor in the chain. I would recommend the LA Studio near the end... just before the IR. Why? When a tube amp hits it's sweet spot it does two things.... first it compresses... then it overdrives. Placing a compressor in the chain will give you that feel, but it does need to be used lightly. Of course... if you push the compression a little harder you can also simulate the SAG some amps have. By placing this later in the chain it will not effect the overdrive tone (other than smoothing it out a little) or your interaction with the overdrive... and if/when you turn the overdrive off it will still feel like a warm/clean tube amp.

This may sound like a stupid question... but did you turn the blocks on? Also... did you make sure they are both set so they do not allow any dry signal through.

As I always state... I bought a Helix because it did what I wanted/needed it to do at the time I put the money on the table. Everything I get following that is a bonus... I bought 2.5. I was happy with 2.5 2.6, 2.7 and 2.8 have all been wonderful updates.... none of which were owed to me.

The level is probably an error in the I/O settings as suggested above. The High end difference is likely the buffer at play... take a look at the Wampler video phil_m posted yesterday. IMO.... You are viewing the problem in reverse! The HX is not ADDING high end making it too bright. Your cables (in true bypass) are probably devouring all your high end!

When using the power amp inputs on the back of the Peavey OR the Laney.... you should NOT use any cabinet modeling from the stomp. That's because you already using a cabinet. The cabinet modeling works best when plugging directly into a PA or FRFR. IMO.... with both the Peavey and the Laney you could get away with either the Amp Models (sans cabinets), or even the Pre-Amp models. Try both version of each to see which one you like more. Can of worms :) You can do anything you want... whatever it takes to get a good tone. BUT - sometimes it is best to know the general rules before breaking them. Generally you put wah, fuzz, overdrive, some modulation, prior to the amp models. Generally you put delays, reverbs, stereo effects after the amps/cabs. I cannot stress this enough... that is just the general use, NOT "you must do this" :)

I think you have a different problem than the OP. Here are a couple things to try... If you are running into the front end of the Special 212, don't use any amp/cab modeling in the Stomp! If you are running into the power amp input (or the effect return) of the Special 212, use the "Pre-amp models" on the stomp... no cabinet or IR models. When you use the Laney cab, how are you powering it... or do you connect it to the Special 212? If it's connected to the Special, then the same bullet points apply. If you connect it differently I'd need more details before making any suggestions.

When you dial in your tones at a quieter level... your ears play tricks on you - hence, the Fletcher-Munson curve. You will add too much low end, and too much high end... creating a "mid scoop" in the tone. At stage volume - that big quiet tone often turns into a "boomy" yet "tinny" mess with no clarity! +1 That is the problem... providing a certain threshold of quality is being met by both the studio monitors and the PA / Monitor situation. I don't waste my time adjusting for poor quality PA boxes... I'll just bring my own FRFR when those are in play because nothing will make them sound good and clear. IMO... This is true only if the studio monitors are not capable of pushing enough air and volume to comfortably get over the Fletcher Munson curve. I find it hard (if not impossible) to setup tones on a set of 3.5" - 5" monitors... there is too much compensation involved. BUT - a decent set of 6.5" or larger is usually capable of reaching 90db (approximate stage volume for guitar) without pushing itself to hard..

The only portion of the Boogie you are not using is the pre-amp.... Therefore, you should be using the "pre-amp" models in the Stomp. The full amp models include power amp simulation as well, but your Boogie is already doing that. In the end... do whatever you need/want to in order to get a good tone. I'm just suggesting you use the Stomp modeling ONLY to replace what you have effectively removed from your Boogie.

I encounter a few crappy techs on the local scene... but I also tour, and if I don't put 100% trust in those guys and work with them I'd be out of work. I love techs.... some of them are great friends and working closely with them has helped me prep my tones so they will work "effortlessly" on any decent FOH system. IMO... ironically, blasting a guitar tone off the stage into a room with a bad tech most often makes things worse. Sure, you will love your tone on stage, but that doesn't mean it's any good where it matters most - the audience! I'm not saying it can't work (you may have great success with it), I'm just saying I've heard it fail more often than not! That said... some rooms FOH is VOCAL ONLY, while others carry the entire show. I'm only referring to the latter :)

Good idea... A Helix update that can prep me a pound of hot wings for the end of the night :)

Actually... that's pretty much what I told them yesterday. Truth is... the "fake amp" that often sits behind me is there only if the monitor system is so bad I need to use it for "my own use". The sound it produces never reaches the audience, or even the other members on the stage. It's just a Peavey Bandit with a COAX full range speaker installed.... I run into the power amp input when needed. So the joke is really on them. Not only do I go direct, but when I do use an amp it's a solid state Peavey (another hint. when using a Peavey, remove the logo so it sounds better as well) I never take an amp to my regular bands gigs... I trust those monitors. It's just a few smaller fill in gigs I do where I carry the amp... just in case. Yes... on the chicken roaster tour it was the late night snacks for the crew. On the laundry tour it was crew laundry as well as skirting, drop cloths, towels, etc... etc... Very practical, and wonderfully silly entertainment :)

In the real world... a '57 is often "off axis" (angled) and pointed more toward the "edge" of a speaker, not into the center of the speaker like the Helix models. This changes the usefulness of the real mic... but the Helix doesn't offer those options for placement. Still not my favorite mic... but it can work. When micing a live amp ribbons and condensers are not really an option... I'll lean toward a Sennheiser... 421, 609, or 409. The Helix offerings of these are pretty good as well.

Just a word of advice to anyone that plays direct with modelers with great success. Your rig always sounds better to a room full of musicians when you place an amp behind you and turn it on so you "look like" you are using it! Long story short.... at yesterdays weekly gig (filled with a room of musicians) I left my "fake amp" in the trunk due to a Christmas tree stealing the stage space. More than one musician commented that my tone wasn't the same even though I ALWAYS go direct at that gig. Closed minds drive me crazy!

No... your only option would be to return to one of the Laney's internal speaker simulations and turn off the cab/mic model in the Helix. The Laney sim would just turn off the horn and apply a filter so not mic is in play. But - that leads you right back to the problem you have in the opening post. IMO.... There is a huge benefit to learning (and getting used to) how to setup your tones with cab/mic simulation. You will have much more control of what the FOH (and therefore the audience) is hearing, because it will be what you are hearing to. Staying in FRFR mode with the amp/cab models on the Stomp.... go to the CAB settings and look at the mic model. Changing the model and distance makes a huge difference. FWIW... I tend to achieve better results with a 121 model pulled about 3" - 6" off the cabinet for most amps. This captures more cabinet tone, and puts some air between the cab and mic. Result... a warmer (amp in the room) style tone compared to having a 57 at 1". YMMV.

Well... if it's brand new, return it for a new one. Any good store will have an exchange policy for a short time before the "warranty" policy kicks in. It's it's used.. use every recourse you can to return it.

I would try booting it in "update mode" and try installing the firmware once again. This should be the procedure on the Stomp.... If you run into any trouble with a failed update or your unit will not boot up, try powering on while holding the right arrow ">" This will put the unit into update mode and you can re-install the latest firmware from there. Make sure you follow the 2.82 update procedures precisely! There are specific procedures for each device... it's easy to follow the wrong ones :) There are two important steps that many people miss.... Start by installing the 2.82 version of HX Edit.. and when the install options appear, INSTALL EVERYTHING! The Stomp will use what it needs and ignore the rest. Doing this will avoid conflicts... it will ensure you have the correct drivers and updater required. When you run the updater (which is installed with HX Edit), DO NOT have HX Edit open.

To which I will reiterate.... "I love how these threads make it sound like amps and pedals never failed :)" I feel for you, and anyone else who has had their Helix (or other gear) die on them... it's a terrible feeling! All I'm saying is... any piece of gear can leave you high and dry at any given moment. It's not like the Helix is dying left, right and center - we are just meeting on the forum where people report it.

The Helix does not come with any IR blocks loaded. IF your unit came with IR's... they have been added by the former owner. You could ask the the seller about them... maybe he will transfer any ownership/license to you and provide you with the original copies. IMO... It's always nice to have the originals. If he just loaded freebies from the net none of that really matters.