codamedia

Nothing convincing.... 12 String is a difficult instrument to fake. An octave pedal alone cannot do it.... because only 4 of the 6 strings are actually octaves, the other two are unison. That requires individual string processing. One of the key tones to a 12 string is the natural "chorus" that takes place. A chorus pedal is usually to intense... but with the Stomp or Helix you can go to the "Mod > Legacy" section and insert the Dimension block. Try the different settings there for a really nice "subtle" chorus effect. Myself... I use a Variax guitar so when I need a 12 String tone I use one of those to dial it in. IMO: Even with individual string processing... it's not easy to get a great convincing tone :)

That's been my approach for the past year.... it's worked fine but for some reason I decided it was time for a change :) This is the setup I have recently gone to.... it's a 29.5" x 15.5" board... enough for the Helix, an external expression, then two additional pedals stacked upper/lower. If you need a lot of extra pedals, and/or a power brick or similar it might not be the best choice for you, but I like it's versatility. There are many variants of this board out there... they seem to change regularly so I don't know what is available now.

Positions and EQ choices are also made by those creating quality IR's... just sayin'. As for the slopes, there are many options of those within he Helix, you don't have to use the ones that come with the cab blocks. EG: Many people prefer the slopes in the filers on the Parametric EQ over the ones in the cab blocks. The only point I am trying to make is don't settle for a stock cab in it's default settings. Learn how different mics sound, learn how different positions sound, learn how to create a dual cab with two different mics and learn how to apply filters. WHY? Because that is how great guitar tones are made on recordings, and because that's how those great IR's are also made! I've said this many times on these forums, I'll repeat again here. The ONE THING missing from the stock cabs is the ability to move the mic from CENTER to EDGE. Since 2.8 that can now be simulated quite decently with the TILT EQ after the cab block(s). Just dial the TILT setting back toward the dark side to your liking. I tend to use "dark 50" to "dark 60" a lot.

Out of curiosity... did you see what I said in my next post from the one you quoted? It looks to me like we are in agreement :)

If you are going to do that... post the specs of the IR. What cab, what speaker(s), what mic's and what positions? The next question will be... what mic choices and positions have you tried with the stock cab.... or did you just insert it and hope for the best? FWIW... I use an IR live that is very close to what I have gotten used to hearing for many, many years. But when recording I use Stock Cabs because they are far more flexible than merely IR swapping. Others may approach it very differently... YMMV.

You seem to have found an IR that you love. That's great, but it doesn't mean IR's are great compared to Stock Cabs... it just means you haven't learned the best method to setup the stock cabs to your liking. It's like being handed a shade of color you love, rather than the RED/GREEN/BLUE to create your own shade :)

All you need to do is connect standard midi cables to that breakout and the Helix. Wrong cable... That was MIDI to USB and is used to connect to a computer. The two MIDI plugs on that cable will not talk to each other because one in an input, the other an output. That is where it starts... then you need to get the midi implementation right. Once you have the proper cables hooked up, follow the video instructions. NOTE: Always remember, OUT of one device goes to an IN on another device. Never IN to IN or Out to Out. If you only need the Helix to control the Beat Buddy... then you should only need Helix OUT to Beat Buddy IN. (one cable) If you need it the other way around it would be Beat Buddy Out to Helix IN. (one cable) If you want two way communication, you need TWO midi cables... one flowing each way (two cables)

Actually... providing he has left enough headroom at the power amp that is the best place for a boost. Placing a boost anywhere else in the chain effects EVERYTHING down chain including the power amp... having it at the very end only effects the overall volume.... (again)... providing he has left enough headroom available.

OP wants a GLOBAL BOOST that can be assigned to a footswitch that he can kick in/out as needed for solo's. OP finds that his BOOST LEVEL may need to be different from gig to gig, that is the heart of the problem. Please read this sentence from the opening post which makes it pretty clear .... Your solution of an external boost between the Helix out and Amp return certainly works, and can be kicked in/out as needed. Since the Helix cannot do this internally, your solution is (what I consider) the best and easiest option.

Since I'm not a Stomp user I can't answer your question directly... but I can answer this one... Line 6 uses ideascale for submitting features requests, they don't really monitor these user forums. https://line6.ideascale.com/ (you need to create an account) Before adding this request, do a search to see if someone already did add it. in that case you just need to upvote it. there is no sense in splitting the ideas and watering down votes.

This thread is about having a "global Boost" on a footswitch.... where you only have to set the boost signal one time, and it applies to all presets! That is very different from simply turning up the volume. Personally... I find that presets often need different "boost" levels not "one size fits all" so I can't really relate to the request. BUT - the OP has a need and is asking how to do it, in those cases, we try to help whether we agree or not :)

I am pretty sure @phil_m was talking about widespread use of MIDI 2.0 implementation... and I agree with him. Just because a "core spec" has finally been approved does not mean every new product will begin implementing it. It will begin to trickle into the marketplace... not flood into it. I'm curious as to how long it will take the Major DAW's to implement it.... I highly doubt it will be this year, but that is just my opinion. IMO: Roland having a USB2 Ready machine coming out is more about marketing (hey look... were the the first to have it) than any sort of practicality. Like owning a Model T when there were still only horse paths to drive on. Don't get me wrong... it's been 40 years since MIDI first came out. It's about time! I'm looking forward to what is coming!

Thanks for clarifying... :)

I'm curious... how did you accomplish a "global boost" with the HD500?

Considering you just responded to a 4 year old thread that nobody has taken part in for nearly two years.... I'm not so sure I would consider this "common". Yes... sadly there are failure rates but no product is immune to that. It does suck when it happens to you, but that doesn't make it a widespread "common mistake" as you put it.

A few simple rules for best practice Do not plug into a USB Hub ... this often includes front ports on a computer. Use a USB2 Port.... NOT USB3 Do not use any USB extender cables Most USB issues are PORT related at the computer. Ports are often matched in pairs (sometimes quad) and devices can conflict. Example: A USB2 port is backward compatible to match it's lowest level device so if a USB 1 device (keyboard, mouse, other basic devices) is plugged in to one port and you plug the Helix into it's matching pair... you are inviting trouble. This is one reason it is always recommended to try different ports on a computer when problems occur.

Always remember.... you do not have the same guitar as the reference therefore it will never match. That difference is likely more about the pickups/guitar than it is about the interface used. Every interface will be different in this regard. IME: it is very easy to compensate a digital signals volume once recorded without degradation. If one is louder than the other, just adjust them to match once recorded. I am pretty sure that when the input is set to AUTO the guitar will be loaded with the impedance of the first effect in the chain... EVEN when recording dry. That is why earlier in this thread I suggested that the OP change the impedance from AUTO to 1M just to eliminate that as a possible culprit.

Stupid question.... Did you follow the update instructions exactly as written or did you just run the updater and hope for the best? Most problems are a result of a missed step along the way. Here are the critical steps some people miss... take NOTE of these, don't follow them. Follow the actual instructions but keep these in mind! Install the latest version of HX Edit (2.82 as of this writing) During the install... on Windows you will get an option of items to install. SELECT THEM ALL and install them. This includes ALL drivers as well as the updater, etc.... DO NOT OPEN HX EDIT! Connect your Stomp.... then run the Line 6 Updater to re-install the 2.82 firmware Follow all instructions carefully

I agree with the others. If you just updated Windows 7 to Windows 10 but you did not update HX Edit (including the drivers for the Helix).... start there. IMO: Since your firmware is 2.80.... I would install that version of HX Edit and "all" it's drivers. Get the Helix stable, then update everything to 2.82 as per the instructions.

What measures have you taken to make sure the difference is NOT in your recording rig, but from the Helix itself? If you have used a stereo block toward the end of you path then the left/right output could sound different. Place a MONO gain block set to unity as the last item in the chain. That will force everything to sum to mono before the outputs.

IMO.... Open a support ticket with Line 6 through your account... Give them your two presets you show here... Explain the problem in detail to them Optional: Point them to this thread If they find the problem in your preset they will let you know what it is. If they can duplicate the problem, they will verify it as a bug and add it to their list for fixing.

Once you wrap your head around snapshots you will find they are intuitive and relatively simple. Well worth the effort of learning. Short answer, yes! Command center can be used to send a limited amount of midi commands at the preset change and the snapshot change. You can also assign a single midi command to a stomp switch.... IIRC.

Yes... I always import. I drag and drop within the impulse window if I want to move/copy an IR to another location, but I use import to bring it in.

I just did another check on my machine... the IR names are exactly what "I renamed them to" before importing. Sorry, I have no idea what is going on with yours.

Just a curious question.... Why don't you compensate the different in IR levels at the IR block? By default an IR block loads a new IR at -18 (iirc)... which is a bit of a safety mechanism :) There is a lot of room up or down left to work with. Keeping it at the block makes sure any blocks "downchain" are actually hit with an appropriate level, not just turned up/down at the end. As for the names.... try importing them into "blank slots" and see if the name sticks. If not... then it is getting the name from within the file, not the file name itself. I am pretty sure I renamed my files and they uploaded as such... but I can't say that with 100% certainty. It's been a while.