codamedia

I fully agree with both of those statements... FWIW... I have about $2K tied up in 4 primary electrics. I have a Strat, a Tele, a Les Paul and a Variax 300 with a Fender Tele neck. But in fairness I don't know that I could replace them for that. That's why I would hunt down a Variax Standard or JTV to cover the ground. IMO... if you live in healthy used market, don't disregard that option.

If I had to make a choice and own just one guitar.... it would be a Variax Standard (I'm a single coil guy) or a Variax JTV in a pickup configuration I like. IMO, the flexibility of the magnetic pickups along with modeling when you need it is a perfect combination. Since this question is posted int he Helix forum.... is it safe to assume there is a Helix in the gear list? If so, all the more reason to get a Variax!

If the Helix is your mixer... then the parametric is your solution. Using the Q control you can isolate the exact frequency very tightly. If there is an actual mixer/pa, it should be solved there, not on the Helix (IMO). I have never been a fan of "feedback finders"... if you don't know how to use one you just end up chasing your tail due to all the false positives. Educating the ear on how to identify and find a trouble frequency is a great skill to have! HINT: Every note on your guitar corresponds to a frequency... and if you know what those 12 frequencies are (rounded off to practical EQ frequencies) it makes it really easy to zero in quickly. You only need to know the lower range... if it's an octave or two above, just multiple accordingly... each octave is double the previous (eg: 40hz, 80hz, 160hz, 320hz, 640hz, 1.3k, 2.6k, etc... etc...)

I'm assuming you still have the rings set to the default setting of "Lo/Brt"... this just dims the rings when not used. This might look nice but for me I could never really tell when something was on or off. You can change this setting so the rings turn OFF when not used, which IMO... works much better. Global Settings > Displays > LED Ring (Set this to "Off/Brt")

I don't disagree with anything you say (it's roughly how I use the Helix)... and it's a great tip on how to setup/use the Helix. I know you say "for further consideration"... but it should be stated (for clarity) that "spillover" and "what the op is experiencing" are two different things. The same problem the OP describes still exists when delay times are changed between snapshots, or even just using the tap tempo if that global setting is not changed.

I think you are over thinking this... Get all your backing tracks to the same level. (Personally, I would not work with backing tracks that are all over the map in regards to volume) Get all your presets to the same level... NOW > You only need to balance the Helix to the Backing Tracks one time... not song to song & patch to patch Prep work is always worth the time :) (IMO) Global Settings>Ins/Outs, "USB 1/2 Input Trim" should adjust the level of the audio coming from your iPad... however, I don't think there is a way to change that from preset to preset. Check with the software (app) to see if there is a midi implementation chart... and whether or not you can control the volume.

FYI: I edited my response for how to balance the paths... please re-read my response above.

sí ... para arreglar su parche actual que funcionará. Luego, ajuste el nivel de reverberación en la ruta b para la cantidad de "brillo" que desee. yes... to fix your current patch that will work. Then adjust the reverb level on path b for the amount of "shimmer" you want.

@gunpointmetal posted a possible solution above just as I was posting my response... I think both options (his or mine) will solve your problem. Pick the one that works best for you. His option includes your amp tone driving the shimmer (which is actually how I would do it as well) while my option is just a variant of your patch with the dry guitar signal driving the shimmer. --------------- This is how I would fix your current patch.... The gain structure is not changing... the problem is that path B is allowing the dry guitar (no amp tone) to blend with the amp tone from Path A makign it appear cleaner than it is. This is easy to correct. For your REVERB in PATH B.... make sure you set the MIX to 100%. This stops the guitar signal from passing through, and only allows the reverb/shimmer to pass through on path B.

Thank you.... I am providing the translation below so others can see what you are asking... Translation My problem is that I want to create a parallel path (as the manual says) to include a shimmer effect. I have two paths, A and B In path A it includes all my line of effects that I need without the shimmer In path B I put the shimmer But I notice that at that moment the signal is divided and line A does not sound the same, the distortion is noticeable without gain, and I think it is because the signal is divided at 50% and I wanted to know how to avoid that , that line A sounds as it is set up and part B line sounds with its perfect parallel without the signal being a problem The image is only a reflection of how it is composed Thank you

Yes there is a global setting to change.... Global > Preferences > Tap tempo pitch (ignore that is says "tap tempo"... it really applies to any delay time changes, tap or preset) Change that setting from Authentic to Transparent In the real world... if you change the speed of a delay it will "ramp up" or "ramp down" in real time. When set to authentic the Helix mimics the real world behavior (great for special effects by the way) but generally speaking, most of us would prefer that it didn't do that... "transparent" is how you solve it.

Can you post your problem in your language? The image does not match the problem I am reading... so I don't really understand the problem.

Language break down perhaps? Am I missing something? I honestly don't have a CLUE what you are talking about with these terms/sentences. The image you displayed doesn't show anything about gain or volume... that's the input gate. So I'm not following what the problem is here.

IMO.... the best solution is to balance the volumes of the backing tracks so they are consistent and save them as such... then balance your presets so they are consistent and save them. A little effort up front makes life easier down the road :) However.... here are a couple of approaches to consider... How do you monitor the iPad? Is the audio (backing tracks) routed through the Helix? If so... find a way to control the levels withing the Helix rather than using midi CC messages. It's relatively easy to adjust various input/output levels on the Helix. If the iPad and Helix are separate then a deep look into the midi implementation is your answer. Check with OnSong to see if there is a way to adjust volume via a MIDI CC. If the option is available, simply set the helix to SEND that MIDI CC to OnSong...

I was 20 in the mid 80's... some of us sold a kidney for a BOSS ME-5 back then :)

There are already some great suggestions above... I'll add another approach. Setup a great sounding clean up... myself, I gravitate to the Fender Deluxe Normal channel, but there are many great amps to choose. After the amp place an LA Studio Comp.... Increase the peak reduction on the Studio Comp to increase sustain yet retain a very natural tone and feel. (as you turn that up, you may also need to increase the level to compensate for any volume loss) Something like a dyna comp or Kinky Comp in front of the amp is similar as they are "compressors/sustainers"... but they are easy to over due. I find the LA Studio Comp or the 3-Band comp after the amp is much more subtle, yet still gets the job done.

Sorry, I just realized that myself and others have not actually addressed your problem directly. IMO... use it for VOLUME not for WAH! Both option setups are provided below.... When you plug it in it will become EXP 2 or EXP3 by default depending on what plug you use.... IMO for a WAH, I'd suggest EXP2 METHOD 1: USE THE BUILT IN PEDAL FOR WAH/EXT for VOLUME (highly recommended) Plug the EP1 into EXP2 Insert a Volume pedal block Insert a Wah block hint: press the toe switch to turn off the wah before saving the patch. Result The EP1 is your volume pedal (never effected by anything) The TOE switch turns on/off the WAH The built in expression pedal is your wah when the effect is engaged by the toe switch This process is all automatic as you add "volume" and "wah" blocks to your signal flow. In theory, you never have to adjust anything for this setup to work.. but you can still fine tune it as needed. METHOD 2: USE THE BUILT IN PEDAL FOR VOLUME/EXT for WAH (not recommended) Plug the EP1 into EXP2 Insert a Volume pedal block Insert a Wah block Navigate to the Volume block > Push and Hold "Position" > Change controller to EXP1 Navigate to the Wah Block > Change the controller to EXP2 (Optional): From the Wah Block press the hamburger menu (beside the save) and choose "bypass assign". Change the WAH On/Off from TOE SWITCH to any other switch you want on the Helix. This method allows you to engage the wah without turning the volume pedal all the way up to reach the toe switch. Result The EP1 is your Wah pedal The TOE Switch turns on/off the WAH The built in expression pedal is always your volume The problem here is that you need to engage the wah with the toe switch, and move your foot to a different pedal to control the wah. Even if you re-assign the wah on/off to a regular switch instead of the toe you are STILL engaging then moving your foot.

I'm not saying I'm right and others are wrong... I'm just pointing out an observation :) I'm surprised at how many people actually use the Volume Pedal as a volume control rather than an effect. I use mine for swells, softer attacks, pedal steel tricks, etc... etc... not as a volume control. Since it is not a volume control, full is normal.. therefore turning on a wah at that point causes no problems. For lowers/higher volumes I have a boost (gain block) near the end of my chain.... when I need more volume, I push a button.

After thinking about your post a bit.... it would be really good to know how you actually use your volume pedal! Is your volume always too loud when you put your volume pedal up full? If it is... lower the range of the volume pedal so it is only 60% or 80%.... whatever volume you require. Or... lower the volume of your patch so you can leave it at 100%. Is it only too loud when you engage the wah? If so... turn the LEVEL on the wah block down so it's the correct volume. Should you require a little extra later (with the wah block on), just add a boost block somewhere in the chain that you can turn on/off as needed.

Flat like a pancake! I would NEVER setup my tone for a "required" EQ curve at the board. That is the same for the HELIX or an AMP! That said - ultimately it's up to the tech to do whatever he needs to do, I just try to give him the easiest of starting points! I take care of that within the Helix.... but with a guitar amp I expect the board to take care of it.

For full control and independence between the two, you need to hook up an external expression pedal. By default, the external pedal will be EXP2 (volume) and that leaves the built in pedal to control EXP1. The toe switch engages the wah... the expression controls it. When the wah is disengaged (again by the toe switch) the pedal becomes ineffective. The VOLUME pedal (EXP2) is completely separate and always works as expected.

I'd just like to add to this... in case EooN is not aware of it. If there isn't a bracket around it, simply push the KNOB while you turn it and it INSTANTLY becomes a snapshot controller. It's just a motion... takes a fraction of a second. If you are using HX Edit... "Shift > Left Mouse Click" does the same thing (IIRC)... and also only takes a moment.

Those are inherent sounds with guitar amps... When it happens on a tube amp people accept it as part of the tone... when it happens in a modeler it must be a flaw :) You will scrutinize the modeler to every minute detail... but you don't do that with an amp. Amp purists will insist it's a "digital fault" while dismissing the same sound coming from their glorious tube amps as something normal.

Earlier in this thread I posted that rather than use the pad... I would just insert a GAIN control in the first block and attenuate that as needed for higher gain guitars.... BUT my thought process has now changed. According to DI (Digital Igloo) the INPUT PAD is an analog pad applied prior to the A/D conversion so I now keep it on. At the very least... it's a safety net in case you swap out for a particularly hot instrument... but I also know that the digital realm likes to have headroom, there is NO HARM in coming in a little softer and compensating later. I still keep a GAIN control in the first block... but now I use it to "increase" the level for lower output guitars rather than attenuate for higher output guitars.

Sorry about that... I didn't realize you were on the Stomp... I don't think the stomp has an input pad... unless I am mistaken. I wouldn't worry about it... I just mentioned it as a "last ditch effort" if everything else failed, but it appears some of the other options might be helping the problem. Don't be afraid to deviate from the defaults choices for mics and positions. Most people don't realize how powerful the mic choice and position are to shaping your tone. A studio engineer spends a stupid amount of time choosing mics and positions.... they want to "get that right" before touching an EQ on the console. Here is a great video on how effective this is within the Helix...