soblivion

I'm experiencing something somewhat similar with the built it pedal on my Helix LT. I use the toe switch to engage it though. Toe down it will work properly for about 15 minutes after I first turn it on, then it will only reach 99%, and sometimes even drops to 98%. I've found that If I exert a fair about of force it will reach 100 %, but that often engages the toe switch. I'm not overly concerned when using the pedal for wah. But on occasion I'll use the Pitch Wham(band does a couple Rage covers) and it's just slightly flat at 99%. I have to compensate by slightly bending sharp. I've opened a ticket and it was determined that it needs to be serviced but I'm holding off for the time being as it's not "unusable" per se. I'm going to try an external expression pedal and see how it behaves. If I get the same results I may send it for service.

I'd be more than willing to load the patch, but I use the LT. I also use the Mk IV as my "base" tone and have never had the issues you describe.

My job has supplied me with a surface pro 2 and just for testing I installed the Helix software. I didn't run into any issues but I also didn't use it for any length of time. I've also installed the MS remote desktop app for Android to control the Helix connected to a laptop. Works great, but hardly usable for gigging and whatnot.

Do you have the USB connected to your computer? If so, disconnect it and see if the noise goes away. I have this exact same issue when using USB due to ground loops.

Often times I'll leave my FRFR powered monitor in the band trailer or at the practice space so I'll use my "hi fi" stereo as my monitors when practicing at home. It definitely colors the sound and is definitely not optimal. I do tweak the sound using the global EQ and it helps but ultimately I had to create patches for that specific use as patches created using a "hifi" speaker system DO NOT translate well to a true FRFR speaker. This has been my experience anyways.

I agree, if I could afford them that is what I would own. I've used both my Helix and hd500 through the QSCs with awesome results.

I had this happen twice within the first two weeks of owning the LT. I opened a ticket and was instructed to put the Helix in an "update mode" and reload the current firmware. I haven't had this exact issue since. I have had it freeze once upon power up but no ":-28" Holding down 6 and 12 upon boot puts it into update mode. Maybe this'll help someone.

It's interesting that the OP says he got it working with a Win10 computer as that is also what I finally had success with. The original computer was a Win7 laptop that had not been kept up to date (with Windows Updates). I had been using the laptop with my HD500 for years with no issue. After I got the Helix updated with my wifes windows 10 computer I upgraded the original laptop with a clean install of windows 10 and it's working fine. I've done 2 updates and use the Editor almost problem free.

Something else you might check. Under Device Manager expand the Universal Serial Bus controllers and under the devices listed go into properties. If the USB device(usually the USB Hub) has a "Power Management" tab, take the check out of "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" I didn't have to do this to update my Helix, but I have done this to solve issues with other problematic USB devices.

Try powering on the Helix while holding down footswitches 6 and 12. This puts the unit into update mode. After it powers on, open the updater. If it doesn't work the first time try it again. You might also try a different USB port on the computer. When I first got my LT I had some issues getting the computer to recognize it. I didn't have the same update issues you are experiencing, but I had to try 3 different computers to get it updated. After that everything worked fine with the original computer.

I see that this is only documented to be for Helix and Helix Rack. So Helix LT still uses the 2.20 editor I'm assuming? I have updated the USB drivers, but honestly I hadn't experienced any issues with the previous drivers.

Under the Global Settings, go into Ins/Outs, on the first page under "USB in 1/2 Destination" make sure that is set to "Multi" Also on the next page of the there is "USB in 1/2 Trim" if that's pulled way down you would lose audio. Off the top of my head that's all that I can think of.

On your desktop, right click on the little speaker(volume control) on the taskbar and choose "playback devices" You should see the Helix listed. You also can set it as default from here. After doing that Windows should route sound through it.

Really, I don't hear a problem. Your clean sound has alot more highs, and the reverb is working with that. Your high gain sound is much more compressed, the highs are squashed. There is no bug here. Make the two patches equal in dB. The reverb can only work with the signal it's given.

Hi all, Long time Line 6 user, abuser and forum lurker. I usually find most of my answers searching threads that have already been posted. But I have a question that I didn't find anywhere else. I gig on a regular basis and use a POD HD500 and/or HD 500X into FOH and into a powered monitor for stage volume. I love to use the TAP button for time based FX. Anway, I've already had to replace 2 switches that started malfunctioning. I've not had any issues with any other buttons, but I don't ride them like I do the TAP button. What actually happens is when the switch finally gives out it will engage my tuner when I don't want it to(in the middle of a song). I've found this: https://reverb.com/item/806628-one-trick-pony-tap-6-line-6-tap-tempo-controller-footswitch-by-molten-voltage I don't see the POD HD listed as a supported device, but it does say that the MIDI info is MIDI CC 64 value 127, and the POD HD documentation shows this as well. So I'm assuming it'll work. I do have a full MIDI controller, but it seems overkill for a single function. Anybody have any other solutions for an off board TAP button? Thanks, Shawn