soblivion

I've been recently thinking about this exact same thing. I've got the HD500 already so that has been my planned backup. I've also just received the Mooer Radar: http://www.mooeraudio.com/?product/201709227917.html It's a cabinet simulator/IR loader pedal. I've loaded it up with a handful of my favorite IRs that I use with the Helix LT and have been experimenting with using it with the HD500. For the hell of it, I decided to try it with an old POD 2.0 i have lying around and it actually sounds surprisingly good. It's good enough that I could definitely get through a gig should my Helix fail.

I took the crybaby off my old pedalboard that hasn't been used for years since I've been using modeling for quite a while now. Anyways, I took all the crybaby guts out of said cryababy and put this in it: https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/potentiometer-dunlop-10k-linear I also found an old 1/4" in a box of amp/guitar parts, a guitar input jack would do. I use the auto-wah function on the Helix so heel down or 0% is off. I stuffed a spring under the pedal to make it always return to 0 with no pressure applied. Even though I didn't need to, I used a bit of Gorilla glue to keep the spring in place. This solution has worked flawlessly. I use the crybaby-mod for all my wah effects and pitch shifting effects (my cover band does a number of RATM songs). I still use the Helix(LT) onboard pedal to change effects parameters. Mostly Delay Mix and Feedback. I have all the crybaby original guts in a ziplock baggie in case I ever want to restore it back to it's original intended purpose.

An IR is a block just like any amp or effect. So create a new block and choose Impulse Response. In HX Edit, click on the IR block. That will give you the editing options in the edit window. The first parameter that you can adjust under the IR block is IR select. This allows you to choose the IR that you want to use. Then you have your high and low cuts. I usually set my low cut at 80 and my high cut between 8 and 10, The last two parameter are Mix and Level. I usually leave those alone. Of course you can do all of this from the Helix itself almost as easily

Go into the Global setup. From there go to Footswitches and set your Preset Mode Switches. Sounds like you had it set to Stomp/Snap. It defaults to 8 Presets after the update.

I'm not sure that there are any new presets per se. If you have the 2.3 firmware installed you should see the new amps and effects as options when building a new preset or changing an existing one. **EDIT -- I stand corrected, see this thread: http://line6.com/support/topic/30512-new-presets/

Something else, you can cycle through snapshots by holding down Ctrl and pressing the snapshot numbers across the top. ie Ctrl+3 for Snapshot 3. Doesn't seem to work with the 10-key part of the keyboard. The HX Edit pilots guide has all the keyboard shortcuts navigated. You can get to the Pilots Guide quickly by opening the Help Menu in HX Edit.

wow....ok

I also dig this amp. Probably my favorite of the updated amps. I like it with the Scream 808 in front and a Carvin Legacy IR from Rosen. Great chops by the way!

Then don't update. I did the update and I also feel the editor is a substantial improvement. I also was happy with the Helix prior to the update, but I'm happier with it now. Not sure that I understand the point of your initial post. If your happy with an antiquated version of the firmware then go with it! I'm more excited about the "under the hood" improvements. ("General stability improvements") Software can always be further optimized and improved.

There was another post that described exactly this, and it was due to a corrupt preset. It was suggested to try to export by setlists to narrow the search. I actually did the update without backing up my presets and they all remained intact. After the update I did a full backup(with no errors). I'm not suggesting that the backup isn't necessary, just sharing my experience.

To the best of my knowledge this should still work. I just read another post that describes the same thing. You are using the new HX Edit 2.3?

I didn't see this as a requirement as it was for past updates. I actually didn't even do the initial backup as I didn't see the forum post until after the fact . So far everything seems to working fine.

I installed the new FW and HX Edit to my LT without a hitch. Everything went smooth and is working as expected. What I didn't do it install the new HX Edit first and do a backup... but all my presets seem to be intact and working fine. I read the forum instructions after the fact. Neither the download site nor the updater mention using HX Edit to backup before installing the firmware update. Been playing with it for several hours now and no problems to speak of. The update was pretty much painless and so far I've only noticed improvements.

I did exactly what you are describing about a year ago. It's a fairly simple procedure. I do remember, however, there being some hot glue holding the ribbon plug in place so I used a xacto knife to carefully remove that. I also ordered a handfull of these: http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/184172-Line-6-24-31-1105 This way I can repair the original switchboard and have a backup on hand.

No. It applys any of the outputs on the Helix. Also, using an XLR out(if that's an option) itself may eliminate hum. What kind of amp are you using? It may also have a ground lift. I had a nasty hum at my last gig and used the ground lift on my FRFR speaker to fix it.

I'm currently using the Rosen IRs. With Rosen you get three IR's per cab. Unfortunately they don't give much information about the IRs but they do have a youtube channel where you can hear all of them. I've also used the OH and Redwires. I'd probably be more inclined to use them if I had a lot of experience recording and using a lot of different microphones and placements.

Are you using the pedal to switch the effect on and off? When I did this I had the same issue. I set the effect to "auto-engage" at 1% and no longer have the problem. Actually have added an external pedal for pitch and wah set the same way. It seems the auto calibrate only measures 100% when the pedal is pushed forward enough to activate the switch.

I work in IT. I have access to literally hundreds of these things. I leave a couple plugged in at home where my helix stays when I'm not gigging. Of course I have several in my gig bag as well.

I took my old crybaby and modded it to work as an expression pedal. Gutted the electronics, then put in a 10k pot and 1/4" jack. (kept the crybaby guts so I can reverse all of this if need be). I bought a spring from Lowes and wedged it under the pedal. I had to trim it down a bit but it works great and returns to heel down automatically. Even though I probably didn't really need to, I also used a bit of Gorilla glue to secure the spring to the pedal. I've been using it like this for a couple months now. It still seems to be pretty sturdy. I suppose only time will tell. I use the modded crybaby for my wahs and whammy effects and use the on board pedal to change effects parameters(usually the mix amount on delays).

Try holding down footswitches 6 and 12(the two on the right next to the expression pedal) while powering the unit on. This will put the unit into update mode. You may also need to try a different USB cable and possibly a different port on the computer. It may be a good idea to open a ticket with Line 6 as well.

What version of windows are you using? What is the make of your computer? I ask because when I first got my Helix LT I had a hell of a time getting the computer to "play nice" with it. I was able to finally get it updated using my wifes beat up old laptop running windows 8. Since updating it it's now working pretty reliably on my main PC. I would try different USB ports on the computer and in Device Manager check the USB hubs and power management, you'll likely have quite a few of these. Uncheck the box that allows the computer to turn off the device. This seemed to really stabilize things for me. If you have both USB 2.0 and 3.0 ports try both. I've had the best success with the 3.0 ports(which should be backwards compatible) but others report the exact opposite. I know alot of folks swear by windows 7, but since i've updated to windows 10 things have been pretty stable for me.

I believe this is exactly what happens with my LT as well. I've set the wahs and pitch whammy patches to use the "auto-on" feature instead of the toe switch and I don't have any problems. It's only after using the toe switch a number of times that it drifts out of calibration.

The auto-calibration works just fine if your expression pedal is compatible with the Helix. Unfortunately by the behavior you describe, it doesn't sound like your are compatible. They may be able to be re-wired see this post here: http://line6.com/support/topic/15999-external-expression-pedal-calibration/ There is alot of information about how the pedal needs to be wired. I used this post here to mod my crybaby into a compatible expression pedal: http://line6.com/support/topic/21821-modding-a-cry-baby-to-make-an-expression-pedal/ The pedal works perfectly. Perhaps you can mod a couple of your pedals to work properly with the Helix.

It would most likely work. It's really going to depend on the amp. I have a 1960a in storage, and if I recall correctly it can be run in stereo at 8 ohms. It also can be run at 4 or 16 ohms. This gives you alot of options.

It's funny that you mention this. I decided to setup up one of my patches with the "auto-engage" function rather than use the toe switch. With it setup this way, my toe forward goes to 100% and doesn't seem to exhibit the problem of maxing out at 98-99. My thought is that when using the toe switch the optical sensor is detecting the farthest pitch and auto-calibrating it to 100(if that makes any sense). I did try different tension adjustments but this doesn't seem to help. I'm thinking in my case it's the pressure required to engage via the toe switch causing the issue. Of course this is just a theory. I'm going to use it like this for a while and monitor it. Unfortunately this doesn't help the OP. or themetalkid.