rd2rk

Attach your preset (not a screenshot) and I'll load it on mine to test..

Sounds like this is just one of those pedals that doesn't like being in an FX loop. Your only real option in that case is to try EQs. Good Luck!

Reinstall HX Edit v3.11. That will reinstall all the necessary drivers and is the usual solution to this problem.

Of course it can be done. And it'll sound great in that room, in that position. Life is too short for all of that. Here's my highly scientific no graphs required method with my FRFR112: 1 - I start with the speaker off the floor, vertical at about chest height. 2 - I stand about 8-10 ft away, a little off axis with my helix within easy reach. 3 - I play. I tweak the amp's tone-stack until I like it. 4 - While still playing, I try different cabs/IRs/mics/positions until I like it. I don't bother with EQs because I don't have the EQ savvy or patience to deal with it. In fact, I usually find a sound I like in step 3 or a few minutes into step 4. I know it's good enough because I forget what I'm doing and get lost in playing. Silly, I know. Also, the method is the same regardless of what physical sound system I use. Now that you know how us geniuses do it, Good Luck in your own pursuit of "The Perfect Tone". :-) :-) :-) :-)

There's a lot of ways to go about this. How depends on how you use the HXS and PC+. I don't own a DMC, and I don't have time to read the manual to tell you how to configure the DMC. What I can do is talk to you about the basic MIDI principles involved as they relate to the HXS and PC+. The way I use the HXS with PC+ is to send PC (Program Change) and/or CC#s for Speaker selection using InstantCommands (ICs) in CommandCenter. I'm going to assume that your DMC is plugged into the HXS MIDI IN, and the PC+ MIDI IN is connected to the HXS MIDI Out. I'm also going to assume that the HXS is listening on MIDI Channel 1 (BASE default). If you're using the DMC to scroll Presets on the HXS, you'd use the same configuration for the PC+, but you'd set that to a different MIDI Channel, for instance, 2. EDIT: In order for commands sent from the DMC to reach the PC+, the HXS needs to have MIDI THRU enabled. In the PC+ System dialog, you set the MIDI Channel to Channel 2. From a VERY QUICK look at the DMC web page, it looks like the DMC can control up to 4 external devices, with 8 pages of functions for each? I would then assume that each device can be set to send on a different MIDI Channel. If your HXS is Device A, set the PC+ as Device B on MIDI Channel 2. You can now scroll presets on either device independently. Messages sent to the PC+ using CommandCenter would then need to be configured to send on Channel 2 also. If you scroll presets on the HXS using the DMC, the ICs on the HXS Presets will send their messages to the PC+ just as if you were changing Presets directly on the HXS. In the HXS Global Settings>MIDI/Tempo, Disaster Area DMC Micro Pro MIDI PC Tx" to OFF. This prevents the HXS from sending it's DEFAULT PC# when you switch Presets, allowing CommandCenter full control of that function. For each HXS Preset, set IC1 to the PC# of the PC+ Preset that you want to call. You can also send CC#s to select specific Speaker emulations, but it's easier to create Presets with the desired configuration. PC+ comes with a number of example Presets using both the stock Allure IRs and Speaker emulations. Using Snapshots, you can also use different PC+ Presets simply by setting IC1 to different PC#s in each Snapshot. OTHER PC+ MIDI SETTINGS: This depends upon what you have downstream from the PC+. If there's no further HW downstream and you're not recording MIDI in a DAW, you're good to go with the defaults (other than MIDI Channel). If there's more MIDI HW downstream that you're controlling with either the DMC or HXS, you'll want to enable MIDI THRU. If you're recording MIDI to a DAW, you may or may not want to enable USB MIDI. Again, this depends on exactly what you're trying to do, what you're using for your Audio/MIDI Interface, other good stuff beyond my limited ability to make further assumptions. Questions?

I take it that you resolved all of this: @all both: I just encountered a new problem. Any MIDI-command is only stored by snapshot. When i try to understand the manual and too the following text (https://helixhelp.com/tips-and-guides/helix/command-center#copying-and-pasting-all-commands),then a MIDI-command is stored by preset, and always recalled when changing the snapshot. Quote All Command Center assignments are stored per preset, but they can be copied and pasted to other presets. See "Copying and Pasting a Command" NOTE The Value parameters of any instant MIDI CC, Bank/Prog, MMC, and CV Out messages, plus the state (dim or lit) of any CC Toggle, CV Toggle, and Ext Amp messages are automatically recalled when selecting a snapshot. But this does not function and i do not know if i must change some global setting or if i understand that wrong. In consequence, actually, i am really going through all my 200 presets which often have 4-8 snapshots, and adjust any single snapshot. I turn crazy, it's everytime 4 commands and with HX-Edit, one can NOT copy&paste all 4 commands at one time. When i try to do it in the LT-Unit, then i can copy&paste all commands at one time, but the names i gave to the snapshots disappear instantly: No more names at all (for the snapshots). Of course, this is not practicable, so i returned to HX-Edit and set for every single snapshot every single command. The next 5 hours, i will be occupied with that. Do the MIDI-commands really only store per snapshot or have i somewhere something wrong in the settings?

Sounds like you have a defective speaker. The HR FRFR series are known to be boomy, and without the DSP options of more expensive speakers are not as "crisp" and "bright". However, "muted" and "muffled" are not normally an issue. Have you got it up off the floor (around chest height) and standing vertically (for proper HF dispersion)?

I get it. If OP was using wireless, the rest of this discussion would be unnecessary, as it wouldn't matter WHERE he puts his external FX! If it turns out that he IS using wireless, I'm going to be REALLY bummed. I've done a LOT of typing in this thread for it to turn out to be all for nought!

Yes, forgot to mention that! I don't advise that since not all of the Helix FX use 1M, and even the values in @Tito83 's excellent impedance spreadsheet are not all correct, or 100% correct for all versions of some pedais. SCREAM808 for example. I've seen at least three different values in various places on the web.

Keep in mind that if you have a Helix effect in the signal chain, it's Input Impedance could be different. The AUTO setting works for Helix FX because they AUTOmatically set the Input Block's In-Z as needed. Helix has NO WAY to know what external FX you have in the FX Loop, which, if it's the first ACTIVE Block, sets the In-Z to 1M. What all of that means is that, unless your external effect is ALWAYS ON, you want to set the Input-Z to whatever it needs WHEN YOU ACTIVATE THE FX LOOP! Look at the attached preset. When you activate the FX Loop by pressing FS1, it changes the Input-Z to 32k. When you deactivate the FX Loop it goes back to AUTO to accommodate any Helix FX. NOTE that if you have a Helix effect in the signal chain PRECEDING the FX Loop that's going to be active AT THE SAME TIME as the FX Loop, you'll need to make a hard decision as to which, the HX Effect or the external effect, you want the Input-z optimized for. The easiest way to deal with this is to use the external pedal the way it was designed to be used, between the Guitar and Helix, but, depending on what else you've got going on in the preset, the above might work. Wondo100.hlx

The specific Input Impedance setting is in the Input Block. IOW, it's per preset. The default is Auto, but you can set it to anything you like, and even use Snapshots or Footswitches to change it as needed.

Using an FX Loop adds DA/AD conversions in addition to the AD conversion at the Input. Something could be getting lost in the translation. The original Rangemaster had an Input Impedance of 22-32k (per Tito83's impedance chart). If the pedal is true to the original specs, your pickups are being loaded at whatever the first active block is, not 22-32k. If the first active block is the FX Loop that's 1M. Bottom Line: It won't sound the same. Check the specs for your pedal to see what it's Input Impedance is, then try setting the Input Block's In-Z to match (try 22 or 32k if the pedal's specs don't list the Input Impedance) instead of AUTO. Since the Input Impedance thing is mostly about how your pickups are loaded, and the Input Impedance circuit comes before the rest of the signal chain, that might help. Note: If you don't know about first active block, Helix has an Analog Input Impedance selector. To set it to automatically set itself based on the Input Impedance of the first active block, in Global Settings>Preferences, set Auto In Z to Enabled; In the Preset's Input Block set In-Z to Auto. Other options: Deranged Master - it's a Rangemaster (what TI used) with mods (like TI's). Kinky Boost with the GAIN down. Try any of the Helix OD's with the GAIN down. Use a GAIN Block. Use EQ to fine tune whatever comes closest.

RTM. If the Preset has 8 blocks or less, and fits within the DSP constraints of the device, which are similar to one path in Helix Floor, Rack and LT. What @silverhead said. 128. On the device and in Folders in your computer's file system. RTM. Don't be offended by my repeatedly saying to RTM. ALL new users should RTM. Several times. If for no other reason than to be able to ask informed questions. It's NOT Rocket Science, but it's not a toaster either. Have FUN with your new toy!

If you unplug the RIGHT Output, yes. That leaves the L/MONO Out which, as the name implies, sums the signal to MONO when there's nothing connected to the RIGHT Output. From the manual: 25. XLR OUT Use balanced XLR cables to connect to your studio gear, or the house mixer, PA, or FRFR speaker(s) when playing live. When using a mono playback system, connect only the LEFT/MONO XLR jack. IMPORTANT! Never connect the Helix device’s XLR outputs to a device whose XLR inputs have 48V phantom power enabled! 26. 1/4" OUT Use unbalanced 1/4" TS cables to connect to your guitar amp, FRFR speaker(s), studio monitors, or other playback system. When using a single amp or speaker, connect only the LEFT/MONO 1/4" jack.

Don't have an LT, but on the Floor, if you decide NOT to change Presets, you hit CANCEL (FS6) to return to HOME (Signal Chain View). When you say CHANNEL I assume that you mean BANK, and when you press UP/DOWN the Presets in that (or those, depending on your Global Settings) Banks appear, flashing. When you say that pressing HOME (does nothing on the Floor in that scenario) shows the signal chain, but doesn't go HOME, what state are you referring to as HOME?

Yes.

I have no clue what those are. I meant define compact in terms of what you're asking about. Bigger than a TS9? Smaller than a battlestar? If you need a mono input for each of those, that's 5, plus at least one knob/slider each for volume. So, the size of a small HP mixer. But no USB. If your iPad has a HP Out (my new iPhone doesn't have one anymore), you can use that. Now your HP mixer just got bigger. There's loopers the size of a typical Stompbox. But HP mixers don't typically have FX Loops. And you'll need a way to get the digital synth sounds from the iPad to the Looper in the Loop of the mixer that the analog synths are connected to. OH, SHOOT! I forgot the FX unit. Maybe you need TWO FX Loops? You need a real mixer. Or a Helix. Probably gonna need a bigger backpack. This looks like it would cover all your basics other than a built-in looper. Might even fit in your backpack! AmazonSmile: Professional DJ Audio Mixer Controller - 6-Channel DJ Controller Sound Mixer w/ DSP 380 Preset Effects, Recording, USB, 4 XLR Mic/Line Input, AUX, FX Processor MP3 Player, Headphone Jack - Pyle PMX646 : Musical Instruments

Compact? you're talking about 4 physical synths. Define compact? Helix Floor (Rack also) has 6 independent MONO (or 2 MONO/2 Stereo, 4 MONO/1 Stereo) inputs plus USB. There's 4 independent stereo paths. You can connect to an iPad via USB (camera kit). There's MIDI I/O via DIN or USB or both. The devil, as always, is in the details. What EXACTLY do you want to do? I suggest that you DL and read the Helix Floor Manual. At least read the sections on CommandCenter, Sends/Returns, USB and MIDI.

Change the split block type to A/B. Assign it's ROUTE TO parameter (it's only parameter) to a footswitch. In the Bypass/Controller Assign screen you'll see that the MIN/MAX settings have already been assigned MIN=A100; MAX=B100. If not, set them manually. Demo preset attached. dazr33.hlx

Yes. So much so that, on full (200%) spread, some stereo FX can be positively disorienting! No, it doesn't sound like your speakers are across the stage from one another. It imparts a perception that the speakers are around 6 feet apart (at 200% spread). I LIKE IT!

My $20 Moskey Dual Switch works perfectly using TRS. I can't imagine that the much more expensive TT2 won't work. Are your settings: GLOBAL>Preferences: Exp/FS TIP = FS4 Exp/FS RING = FS5 GLOBAL>Footswitches: FS4 Function = Stomp 4 FS5 Function = Stomp 5 HX EDIT SETTINGS>Device Settings: FS4 Function = Stomp 4 FS5 Function = Stomp 5

I'm using a PC with W10. My 2nd gen 18i20 is on FW 1653. The latest. Control v3.6.0.1822. The latest. Set to 48k, Clock Source INTERNAL. No problems. Helix works. You have a MAC with Big Sur. That OS is known to have had problems with lots of stuff. I would contact Focusrite Support.

What @DunedinDragon said. As to the possibility of a new model just over the horizon, Eric Klein (aka @Digital_Igloo) one of the main players at L6 (forget his actual title) has repeatedly stated (over on TGP, where L6 engineers tend to hang out), that while there's always something new in the planning stages, a new flagship modeler is at least 2 years out. Today's modelers are as real as it gets (according to their marketing depts), and the next gen will, of course, be realer than real ;-) . You can spend your life waiting for the next best thing, or rock out on what's real right now.

I don't have one, but but when I was researching switch boxes I seem to recall reading that there were internal configuration switches. You might want to watch the use video on the Mission website.

If you're planning on trying an exp pedal with two outputs controlling the gain blocks on two LTs across presets, the second LT is really just a mirror as far as changing presets is concerned. IOW - if it works on one it should work on two. All I was showing is that the supposedly global pedal position is actually only approximate between presets. The variation is small, and it might not be a problem for you, and that's why I didn't just shoot the idea down. It sounds like a MIDI Loop. Do you have MIDI cables connected between the units for both SEND and RECEIVE? If so, In Global Settings>MIDI/TAP, disable MIDI THRU on both LTs. Better yet, just use one cable from the Master LT to the slave. This is not going to be a viable solution for controlling WAH on both units, both for the same reasons that it doesn't work for the gain blocks, and because the one LT is being controlled directly and the other by MIDI, which will likely cause a difference in the response curves. This idea of controlling two LTs with the on-board exp pedal of one is something you should put off driving yourself crazy with until you get your external dual out pedal.