rd2rk

All amps don't "clean up" the same. That phenomenon is a result of the interaction between the guitar's pickups and the amp's input circuitry. While the Helix amps are very well modeled, in the end they are not really tubes. All that said, my guitars, single coils to JBs to high output ceramics, all "clean up" just fine with the Helix amps I use. The INPUT circuitry of most REAL WORLD amps is 1MegOhm impedance. Certain FX placed between the guitar and an amp's input (see below) are lower than that and in order to get "authentic" sound from the modeled FX Helix uses analog circuitry to mimic that interaction with the pickups. First thing to do is to check GLOBAL SETTINGS>PREFERENCES>AUTO IN-Z. When set to ENABLED Helix uses that analog circuitry to mimic the interaction between your pickups and that type of effect, using the first ACTIVE effect in the signal chain as a reference. When set to FIRST it uses the FIRST effect, active OR bypassed. Since MOST of the FX in Helix are 1M input impedance, the ENABLED/AUTO settings will normally be fine. If you ALWAYS want your pickups to act like you're plugged straight into an amp (you don't use those FX), then on the INPUT BLOCK of each preset set the IN-Z to "1M Ohm". This overrides the GLOBAL IN-Z setting and is as close as Helix gets to that (plugged straight into an amp) behavior. There's a spreadsheet online somewhere that has all of the Helix FX impedance info, but I can't find it just now. Here's a partial list distilled from that SS. Thanks to @John Mark Painter on TGP. The post is from 2020, so you might want to do a search for the actual spreadsheet which was updated to v3.80: All Dynamics are 1M All Reverbs are 1M All Pitch are 1M All Filters are 1M Wah with Impedance Changes Weeper 90k Teardrop 90k UK 136k Delays with Impedance changes Analog Echo 230k Elephant Man 90k Analog w/Mod 90k MultiHead 22k Cosmos 10k Modulations with Impedance changes 70's Chorus 22k Analog Chorus 22k Courtesan 136 Vibe Rotary 90k Dual Phaser 230k U-Vibe 90k Distortion with Impedance Changes BIGHORN (Tested manually...check for yourself and confirm) 70k? Deranged Master 22-32k Colordrive 136k Triangle Fuzz 22k Fuzz Pi 22k Arbitrator 10k Facial Fuzz 22k Buzz Saw 230k Tychoctavia 230k Octave Fuzz 230k Jumbo Fuzz 90k Industrial Fuzz 10k Hedgehog 230k Scream 808 230k Scream 230k

The documentation tells all you need to know. If your Helix doesn't behave as the documentation describes: Perform a Factory Reset (back up your presets first!). If that doesn't work, reinstall the FW using "Line6 Updater" which should have installed with HX Edit. If that doesn't work, open a support ticket.

You've already tried a factory reset. You could try reinstalling the FW using the "Line6 Updater" which should have installed with HX Edit. Otherwise, open a support ticket.

You can also do this using Snapshots if you don't want to waste a FS.

Place the cab/IR at the end of the signal chain (before the Output Block) and place a SEND (to the amp) before the IR.

Here's the same functionality using Snapshots instead of a FS. Warmoth Mod2.hlx

Attached version should work. You needed a FS, so I used the Piezo Tuner (FS5). Just put the tuner before Return1 instead of in the Loop. FS5 now modifies the LEVELS of the 2A and 2B Output Blocks, cutting out the Piezo when ON and cutting out the Guitar when OFF. Warmoth mod.hlx

If I understand correctly, you have ONE guitar and TWO signal paths for it and want to switch signal paths? Split your paths immediately after the Guitar In. Change the Split Block to A/B and assign a FS to it. It will now toggle the signal between the paths. Then rejoin the main path at the very end before the Output Block.

FYI - if you update your FW your plain vanilla Catalyst will magically BECOME A CX! I did it to my Catalyst - it's GREAT! But, if for some unfathomable reason you don't WANT a better, more powerful Catalyst, FOR FREE, below is from the original Catalyst Pilot's Guide: 1. Press the REVERB button to enable the Reverb 2. Press again to switch the Reverb off. 3. Like the EFFECTS, press and hold the REVERB button for two seconds to enter reverb selection mode. The AMP SELECTOR encoder LED ring will dim, and you can use the SELECTOR to scroll through the six different reverbs. Press the REVERB button again to exit selection mode. Remember to press and hold CH A or B to save your reverb settings to that preset. If the above doesn't work and a factory reset doesn't fix it, open a support ticket.

Back up your presets and perform a factory reset. If that doesn't get it open a support ticket.

Please attach a copy of a preset that demonstrates this behavior. I think I know what is happening, and it is not a bug, but I need your preset to verify.

I can't imagine that the switching circuit in that amp is any more than a mechanical ON (circuit CLOSED) and OFF (circuit OPEN) which is what the Helix Ext Amp switch does. Are you using a TRS cable? Are you sure that the "upgraded" jack even works? If you have a FS that works (how else would you know that the jack is functional?) use a multimeter to know which button switches what. You'll need two switches - one set to TIP and the other set to RING - both set to LATCHING.

Hello.

You have to hold the FX button down until the selector switch blinks and then dims. Then press the TAP button until the FX LED you pressed (FX1 or FX2) displays the color code for the type of effect you want. Then turn the selector to the desired effect in that category and press the FX button again to confirm your selection. Download the Catalyst CX Family Pilot's Guide and see page 10.

Two things: This is a user-to-user support forum. Nobody from Line6 hangs out here. Go to: Digital & Modeling Gear | The Gear Page or various Facebook pages they're known to frequent. The OLD Powercab series is DEAD. No updates since year one and nobody from Line6 will even talk about it. The new Stadium series doesn't even have the L6 Link port. If you MUST continue to use this DEAD tech (I have the PC212+) with the new Stadium there's a $250 add-on box with L6 Link and Variax ports they'll be releasing someday. They've just released a new product called Powercab CL212 which is basically a powered 212 guitar cab with limited speaker emulations but not FRFR. You can ask them to make that in a vertical model. Good Luck with that!

If you bought it at a store with a returns policy, return it for an exchange. If not, contact support. It may be a known issue with some units.

Perform a Factory Reset: Factory Reset In the event that you want to return your Catalyst amplifier to factory settings, follow the steps below. 1. It is highly recommended that you first use the Backup/Restore feature found in the Catalyst Edit software to create a backup of your custom presets and settings —see page 11. 2. Exit Catalyst Edit and disconnect your amplifier from the computer. The following step will erase any and all edits you have made to your presets, effects, etc. in the amplifier. You did make that backup, right? 3. Hold down the CH B and MANUAL buttons on the front panel of your Catalyst while powering on the amplifier. If you haven't already, DL the Catalyst Manual and at least skim it.

Page 68 of the LT 3.80 manual: 2 Re-amp Src (USB 7) 3 Re-amp Src (USB 8) USB out 7 and 8 are dedicated to recording a DI signal which can be used for re-amping; choose which two inputs will be sent dry (unpro cessed) to your DAW. By default, USB 7 is set to “Guitar” and USB 8 to “Variax.” See “USB Audio”

We talk about it frequently here whenever the question of Helix vs 3rd party Audio Interface comes up. That only works if you're using Helix as the ASIO Audio Device in your DAW, and you can use either 7 or 8 for the various applicable Inputs.

You need to check your guitar and cables. Most of what little noise I hear is coming from the Red Squeeze. That compressor into a distortion, even a Timmy, is guaranteed to be noisy. The Helix versions are actually pretty quiet relative to the RW analog versions. I bypassed your Hard Gate and used the Input Gate (default settings) and it went dead silent even with both the Red Squeeze and Teemah ON. That was with both a PRS S2 CU24 and my funky old Affinity Tele.

On re-reading my post, I should clarify. When you SAVE the preset in PC Edit, it's saved to the Powercab. When you fire up PC Edit it simply reads what's on your Powercab. No presets are saved on your computer. That's why I specified that you need to export your presets to a folder on your computer, preferably one that backs up to the cloud.

When you save it to your PC it's also saved to the Powercab. You can load it on the Powercab without being connected to the PC.

Changes are made to an existing preset, or by creating a new preset. Then you SAVE the preset. It's annoying but quite doable. WARNING: Export your modified/new presets to a folder on your computer, preferably one that backs up to the cloud because, you know, computers...

Most of the amp models have a HUM setting. You can dial that down to zero, but it sounds like you have some other problem. Attach a preset that has the problem and I'll have a look at it.

Relating to latency when playing thru amp sims. Less conversions means less latency. Not really a factor when using only the HW.