rd2rk

You have to hold the FX button down until the selector switch blinks and then dims. Then press the TAP button until the FX LED you pressed (FX1 or FX2) displays the color code for the type of effect you want. Then turn the selector to the desired effect in that category and press the FX button again to confirm your selection. Download the Catalyst CX Family Pilot's Guide and see page 10.

Two things: This is a user-to-user support forum. Nobody from Line6 hangs out here. Go to: Digital & Modeling Gear | The Gear Page or various Facebook pages they're known to frequent. The OLD Powercab series is DEAD. No updates since year one and nobody from Line6 will even talk about it. The new Stadium series doesn't even have the L6 Link port. If you MUST continue to use this DEAD tech (I have the PC212+) with the new Stadium there's a $250 add-on box with L6 Link and Variax ports they'll be releasing someday. They've just released a new product called Powercab CL212 which is basically a powered 212 guitar cab with limited speaker emulations but not FRFR. You can ask them to make that in a vertical model. Good Luck with that!

If you bought it at a store with a returns policy, return it for an exchange. If not, contact support. It may be a known issue with some units.

Perform a Factory Reset: Factory Reset In the event that you want to return your Catalyst amplifier to factory settings, follow the steps below. 1. It is highly recommended that you first use the Backup/Restore feature found in the Catalyst Edit software to create a backup of your custom presets and settings —see page 11. 2. Exit Catalyst Edit and disconnect your amplifier from the computer. The following step will erase any and all edits you have made to your presets, effects, etc. in the amplifier. You did make that backup, right? 3. Hold down the CH B and MANUAL buttons on the front panel of your Catalyst while powering on the amplifier. If you haven't already, DL the Catalyst Manual and at least skim it.

Page 68 of the LT 3.80 manual: 2 Re-amp Src (USB 7) 3 Re-amp Src (USB 8) USB out 7 and 8 are dedicated to recording a DI signal which can be used for re-amping; choose which two inputs will be sent dry (unpro cessed) to your DAW. By default, USB 7 is set to “Guitar” and USB 8 to “Variax.” See “USB Audio”

We talk about it frequently here whenever the question of Helix vs 3rd party Audio Interface comes up. That only works if you're using Helix as the ASIO Audio Device in your DAW, and you can use either 7 or 8 for the various applicable Inputs.

You need to check your guitar and cables. Most of what little noise I hear is coming from the Red Squeeze. That compressor into a distortion, even a Timmy, is guaranteed to be noisy. The Helix versions are actually pretty quiet relative to the RW analog versions. I bypassed your Hard Gate and used the Input Gate (default settings) and it went dead silent even with both the Red Squeeze and Teemah ON. That was with both a PRS S2 CU24 and my funky old Affinity Tele.

On re-reading my post, I should clarify. When you SAVE the preset in PC Edit, it's saved to the Powercab. When you fire up PC Edit it simply reads what's on your Powercab. No presets are saved on your computer. That's why I specified that you need to export your presets to a folder on your computer, preferably one that backs up to the cloud.

When you save it to your PC it's also saved to the Powercab. You can load it on the Powercab without being connected to the PC.

Changes are made to an existing preset, or by creating a new preset. Then you SAVE the preset. It's annoying but quite doable. WARNING: Export your modified/new presets to a folder on your computer, preferably one that backs up to the cloud because, you know, computers...

Most of the amp models have a HUM setting. You can dial that down to zero, but it sounds like you have some other problem. Attach a preset that has the problem and I'll have a look at it.

Relating to latency when playing thru amp sims. Less conversions means less latency. Not really a factor when using only the HW.

I never liked my HD500X. Sold it to get Helix. Sounds great into my Catalyst.

If you use your LT as AI you'll need to connect your monitors there and RETURN your signal to the LT using USB 1/2 for the Master out from your DAW (usually the default). Your loops are still free. You will incur the additional latency I mentioned, which is not a problem for recording from the LT (DIRECT MONITORING), but could be a problem if using other amp sims. If you use the FR as AI, to get DRY recording you'll need to place a SEND block at the beginning of your signal chain and run that to a FR Input channel. IOW, you lose the ability to use USB channels 7/8 for the DRY signal and you lose a block and loop (1 for MONO, both for STEREO) in each preset which would only really be a problem in kitchen sink type presets where you need EVERY block or if you need both loops for external FX/4cm. It's a tradeoff. What's more important to you - kitchen sink presets and external FX/4cm, or DRY recording? I use my FR vs my Helix as AI for all of the above reasons (I sometimes use the other amp sims I mentioned) and also because routing all of my sound through the FR with speakers attached there is less wiring and a simpler way to connect other instruments to my system vs using Helix loops (of which I have two more than you) and creating my presets to accommodate that. When I want to go out and jam with my Helix I just pull the IEC, AES and 2 XLRs and I'm on my way. Bottom line - if you were on a budget and didn't already have the FR, using your LT as AI would be most convenient, but since that's not the case, use the FR. Also - when you upgrade to the Stadium XL you'll be able to utilize the SPDIF. Just sayin'.

You remember correctly. I have Helix Floor and FR 18i20. This allows me to use SPDIF for recording or playing through my studio monitors. Having SPDIF also allows me to play through plugins with absolutely minimal latency due to fewer AD/DA conversions. You don't have that option with the LT. You didn't specify which generation of FR you have, but gen2 and up, even without using SPDIF, all have lower total RT latency than Helix when Helix is used as AI. It's not a lot - 7.6ms vs 12.6ms at 64spls/48k - but if you're latency sensitive it matters. This does not matter when recording ONLY, but if you'd like to use plugins such as Helix NATIVE, AT5, THU you want to use the FR as your AI. Note that if you want to record while playing over and recording streaming audio, you should connect your computer's HP Out to the Line Inputs on the FR. You'll probably need a "hum destroyer" to filter out the USB ground loop noise. I use a cheap Pyle PHE300. Behringer sells the same device with their brand name. I also have a Powercab which I use as @somebodyelsedescribed but I take the Outs from the Powercab to enable me to get the speaker emulations and use the IRs on the Powercab. That spares DSP on my Helix for more complex signal chains. Not essential, just a personal preference. More questions?

It's on page 2 of the Input Block settings, not in the GLOBAL settings.

FWIW - you're already getting the SOUND/FEEL part of using a tube amp on stage. The difference in SOUND to FOH imparted by the tubes is not all that noticeable out in the audience. How much time/money do you want to spend getting that last 5% that only the audience hears?

I know what you're saying, as you stated, it's been asked many times. There is no power amp block in Helix. A Reactive Load Box allows you to incorporate the power amp out of your amp into the signal to FOH via a Line Out. At this point in time it is the best solution. I've tried what you are suggesting. It was less than satisfactory and wasted a lot of time. While you COULD try various Helix amps set as neutral as possible and find an acceptable sound/feel, an RLB is the simplest way to do it.

No. To get what you're after you'll need a reactive load box such as the Two Notes Torpedo.

I assume that you've performed a factory reset? Try re-installing the FW. If that doesn't get it, open a support ticket.

In that case it should just work. I would contact Fractal to see if there's a problem on that end.

I'm suspecting that both windows update and HXEdit are having a problem with that processor. After uninstalling all Line6 drivers and HXEdit, try turning OFF Core Isolation: Settings>Privacy&Security>Device Security>Core Isolation Details>Local Security Authority Protection=OFF Try to install HXEdit again and if that doesn't work turn CI back ON and open a support ticket. Ask if HXEdit is compatible with that processor. You can also try opening a chat with a Microsoft Support person to ask about the Update problem. Sometimes those syatem updates just take a long time. 25H2 took FOREVER on both of my i7 machines. After an hour or so I went out for a run, went shopping, and two hours later when I got home it was FINALLY installing! SLOWLY!

No Fractal, but I'm 99.9% sure that the AES/EBU is just the hardware, the actual function is Line6 specific.

This is a user-to-user support forum. Nobody from L6 hangs out here. Try posting your request here: Digital & Modeling Gear | The Gear Page The head honchos are frequent posters there.

I'm saying to uninstall/ re-install everything Line 6, BUT... I had a little more time to look at your screenshot of your Device Settings. Before I make any other suggestions, a couple of questions: What is your Lenovo's FULL model #? Processor model? When you got it, did you perform ALL of the available Windows updates? That means rebooting and re-checking Windows Updates until there were no more updates to install on two or more successive reboots? Did you then install all of your other (non Line 6) applications? What applications did you install? Are you backing up all of the relevant (to those applications) data directories to OneDrive or elsewhere in the cloud? Are you using ANY antivirus/malware programs other than Windows Defender? Did you uninstall whatever crapware that the Lenovo came with pre-installed? A screenshot(s) of your Startup settings - SETTINGS>APPS>STARTUP - could be helpful here. I know, that's a lot of questions and you might not understand why they are relevant, but there is no logical explanation for why a brand new Win11 system should be as hosed as yours seems to be, and before I make any further suggestions I need to know these things so that I don't make things worse. TBH - depending upon your answers to the above, my best advice MIGHT be to restore it to the condition it was in when you took it out of the box, then come back for advice on how to proceed. But that could be painful and very time consuming. I've been using Windows since before there was Windows (DOS) and if it's not necessary...